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Tom Winkles sells the warranties at a HUGE discount. Probably close to 40%-45% off. The cost goes up the longer you wait time wise and mileage wise to buy. The cheapest time to buy is BEFORE 12K miles. For example a 7-year/70K-mile with $100/ded is about $990 IF you buy before reaching 12K miles. I think 8-years/80K miles is $1400 before 12K miles. These are the most comprehensive bumper to bumper warranties FCA offers.
At that price I'd buy it now. Is this a user here? Are the warranties tied to a dealership? Thanks :)
 

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At that price I'd buy it now. Is this a user here? Are the warranties tied to a dealership? Thanks :)
The guy that sells the warranties is not a user of the forum. He works at a FCA dealer. I just refer people to him because his prices are really good. I bought a warranty from hom for another FCA car. He sells extended warranties for all FCA products. You can always shop around too.

Apply for a FCA credit card and get another $100 off by charging the warranty on the card. The first $500 MOPAR purchase qualifies for the $100. It's a freebie.

Here is his info. He's super professional and a straight shooter.

Tom Winkles @ 269-385-1116

 

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The guy that sells the warranties is not a user of the forum. He works at a FCA dealer. I just refer people to him because his prices are really good. I bought a warranty from hom for another FCA car. He sells extended warranties for all FCA products. You can always shop around too.

Apply for a FCA credit card and get another $100 off by charging the warranty on the card. The first $500 MOPAR purchase qualifies for the $100. It's a freebie.

Here is his info. He's super professional and a straight shooter.

Tom Winkles @ 269-385-1116

Thank you very much. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
How much was the extended warranty, if you don't mind me asking? I'm at the 50k mile mark with my 2018. It's my daily driver, and like you I average 120-140 miles round trip.
I just got it yesterday. I think its about 3,200usd but i took the 24months payments no interest. I already passed the 50k manufacturer's warranty thats why. Paid a downpayment and then monthly payments. Got one too for my Durango last month but the Spider is the one I use a lot for commuting even on winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
How much was the extended warranty, if you don't mind me asking? I'm at the 50k mile mark with my 2018. It's my daily driver, and like you I average 120-140 miles round trip.
Did it break down or any issues you had? That's more driving than me. I drive approximately 100-110 miles daily monday to friday even alternate saturdays even on winter with bridgestone blizzaks.
 

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Thank you very much. :)
There's no rush to buy the warranty if you just bought brand new. The first price increase happens at 12K miles. You can wait until just before 12K miles to buy it. There are huge price increases after 12K miles. I think 50% more or something?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Here is what we at my shop think is happening. We think you are burning exhaust valves on number three due to a convergence of conditions. First, it sounds like you rarely drive your car hard, that means it's running lean all the time, the stock tune runs lean up to a surprisingly high boost and rpm level. They do this for economy and emissions and normally it's fine, however if you are driving on the upper edge of that limit and never over it, the exhaust valve and seat areas will heat up a lot. Normally this doesn't happen because you will add enough throttle to richen it up and cool it, or reduce power and cool it, but if it's in that one spot for a long time it will heat up. Even so, that's shouldn't burn up a valve, but it contributes to the picture here. We think you have a low flowing fuel injector on cylinder 3, probably not very low, just 5 percent or so, but just enough so that with the factory tune and driving in just the right range it burned up a valve.

I'm also concerned that when it was fixed they first time they may have put in standard 1.4 not turbo exhaust valves. The turbo 1.4s use special and expensive exhaust valves for this exact reason, but they interchange with the normally aspirated 500. That would contribute to a rapid failure of the number 3 exhaust valves the second time around. It would be easy to put in the wrong valves, they look almost identical, so if the second failure happend more rapidly than the first one, that's probably a contributing factor.

Greg


Hi Greg, what do you mean by rarely driving car hard. I drive it for my daily commute almost 110 miles everyday back and forth so I drive it normally without redlining it. I just learned that I need to cool it down after driving it I have been warming it up ever since and putting 93 octane and not lugging it.
 

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Did it break down or any issues you had? That's more driving than me. I drive approximately 100-110 miles daily monday to friday even alternate saturdays even on winter with bridgestone blizzaks.
No sir, no issues. At least, none mechanical.

My coolant reservoir did run dry on the overflow section about a year after purchase, but it hasn't happened again. Since she's a 2018 I did worry I had the common water pump leak, but I've never seen any signs of a leak and never smell burning/evaporating coolant so I just chalked it up as a fluke and keep my eyes and ears on it for any signs of trouble.
 

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Has anyone confirmed the water pump issue is only on 2018's? Anyone with a 2019 or 2020 need to replace a water pump?
 

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I don't know, but changing a water pump on this car is not fun.

Greg
Reminds me of putting my B5 Passat into "service position" to do anything on the front of the engine...

I couldn't find pics of my timing belt job on that car, so I just did a quick google search for the procedure. I found one here; lo and behold, they used some of my pics for their guide!!! LOL

 

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Reminds me of putting my B5 Passat into "service position" to do anything on the front of the engine...

I couldn't find pics of my timing belt job on that car, so I just did a quick google search for the procedure. I found one here; lo and behold, they used some of my pics for their guide!!! LOL

Same procedure for a 2001 Audi S4.
 

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Yep, it's the same chassis. The Passat used the Audi B platform through 2005.
More and more European brands require front clip removal for service. Do you remember how long it took you to remove the front clip? I think a Audi Tech told me 45 min? I thought that was fast.
 

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I don't remember for sure, but 45 minutes sounds about right. That was so damn long ago.

I had a friend helping me, and he lent me his official service tools which threaded into the bumper mounts and allowed the whole front clip to slide forward far enough on them to get good access.
 
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