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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to add a 10 inch amplified sub box in the tiny trunk of my 124. I have the Bose system which will get upgraded front door and pillar speakers. How can I wire my amp to the existing system without disturbing the current amp/speaker combination?
 

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I want to add a 10 inch amplified sub box in the tiny trunk of my 124. I have the Bose system which will get upgraded front door and pillar speakers. How can I wire my amp to the existing system without disturbing the current amp/speaker combination?
Tap the speaker level inputs going into the bose sub at the passenger footwell into either a loc or if your sub amp has high level inputs, directly into the amp.
 

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Awesome, that gives me a starting point...any idea of color codes for those?
Off hand I don't have them, you should be able to find the info you are looking for on the miata forums though I think, they share the same wiring with the ND. If your sub amp has a phase switch, don't worry too much about it, wiring it backwards is 180* out of phase, which might be desirable depending on positioning, and if it's not then use the phase switch. It is better to wire it 'correctly' though if you end up in this case, bc you'll be technically 360* out of phase, which is back in phase but off by a cycle. Human ears probably can't tell the difference though especially in a car this small no matter where you put the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Off hand I don't have them, you should be able to find the info you are looking for on the miata forums though I think, they share the same wiring with the ND. If your sub amp has a phase switch, don't worry too much about it, wiring it backwards is 180* out of phase, which might be desirable depending on positioning, and if it's not then use the phase switch. It is better to wire it 'correctly' though if you end up in this case, bc you'll be technically 360* out of phase, which is back in phase but off by a cycle. Human ears probably can't tell the difference though especially in a car this small no matter where you put the sub.
Thanks, Ill try the Miata sites.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yooo! I have a shallow 12” i wanted to do this same thing with. Post pics and let us know how it all goes!
I did not take pictures, but the basic process is simple enough. Power wire from the battery goes through the lone grey rubber/plastic? grommet in the drivers firewall....easy to get to and through. Route under the drivers kick panel(one plastic push connector), then under the threshold molding(4 plastic friction connectors attached to the underside of the molding). These parts are super easy to get off. Behind the drivers seat remove the plastic trim that covers the door edge, and partial back....like 4 plastic push connectors. In the trunk, remove the carpet that the compressor mounts to(9 push in connectors I think). Remove the plastic holding the drivers side trunk carpet to the floor and wall(4 connectors?) Remove the aluminum plate that shields the gas fill and vent lines on the drivers side(5 10mm bolts), I used one of those bolts for my amp ground. Easiest to do this next part in the daytime! If you look in the trunk drivers side in the outermost area you will see daylight. Push a straightened clothes hanger or baling wire(I used lashing wire, I used to be a lineman) through that opening until you have enough to tape your power wire to, then pull it through. I used speaker level input by tapping into the subwoofer speaker wire(Orange+, Brown-) and the route to the back down the passenger side is identical, all the way down to the sunlit crack:) I used a remote turn on module/trigger that I got off amazon for 12$ to turn the amp on when the stereo comes on(this module also delays turn on a couple seconds, so no amp thump). I bought a 115$ Rockville 10" powered sub that included a wiring kit, and 2 Powerbass full range 6.5 inch speakers to add more mid and high for 75$, and left the pillar tweets alone. My car is now LOUD and clear, and I couldn't be happier. I was dreading taking the tiny car apart, but it was actually not a very hard job; just be careful with all the plastic bits! Have fun!
 

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I did not take pictures, but the basic process is simple enough. Power wire from the battery goes through the lone grey rubber/plastic? grommet in the drivers firewall....easy to get to and through. Route under the drivers kick panel(one plastic push connector), then under the threshold molding(4 plastic friction connectors attached to the underside of the molding). These parts are super easy to get off. Behind the drivers seat remove the plastic trim that covers the door edge, and partial back....like 4 plastic push connectors. In the trunk, remove the carpet that the compressor mounts to(9 push in connectors I think). Remove the plastic holding the drivers side trunk carpet to the floor and wall(4 connectors?) Remove the aluminum plate that shields the gas fill and vent lines on the drivers side(5 10mm bolts), I used one of those bolts for my amp ground. Easiest to do this next part in the daytime! If you look in the trunk drivers side in the outermost area you will see daylight. Push a straightened clothes hanger or baling wire(I used lashing wire, I used to be a lineman) through that opening until you have enough to tape your power wire to, then pull it through. I used speaker level input by tapping into the subwoofer speaker wire(Orange+, Brown-) and the route to the back down the passenger side is identical, all the way down to the sunlit crack:) I used a remote turn on module/trigger that I got off amazon for 12$ to turn the amp on when the stereo comes on(this module also delays turn on a couple seconds, so no amp thump). I bought a 115$ Rockville 10" powered sub that included a wiring kit, and 2 Powerbass full range 6.5 inch speakers to add more mid and high for 75$, and left the pillar tweets alone. My car is now LOUD and clear, and I couldn't be happier. I was dreading taking the tiny car apart, but it was actually not a very hard job; just be careful with all the plastic bits! Have fun!
Ill check it out, just havent put any time into it. But yeah luckily, so far, these arent terrible to work on. Thx!
 
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