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Discussion Starter #1
So after seeing higher than normal silicon in my oil analysis, I am looking at filters.

I currently use a pipercross oiled foam. Typically these should be better than cotton gauze for filtration and are often used for off reading for maximum protection..but maybe not...

However, I see people on here using the v4 and v2 which I believe are gauze, but then also reports that the K&Ns have poor filtration (also gauze). I also see people on here argue against using gauze....

I am aware that performance difference between oem and foam/gauze may be negligible (lowdown torque being reported as one area of improvement)...but ik always keen to find small improvements..

I see AfE (also cotton) well reviewed. But they are US only.

I am a bit stumped as to why my foam filter has let me down, despite maintenance etc, but I am open to suggestions.
 

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Normally high silicon values are due to engine oil formulas or during the process of making the engine
Air filters has nothing to do with silicon in the engine

Logically its kind unlikely unless you have a large ring gap
OEM air filter is fine unless you want to spent money for CAI either for sound or more than 250HP
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm 30k miles so its very likely dirt showing up as silicon . Engine well run in to get rid of silicone from manufacture.

However, seeing as the oem setup is a CAI anyway, all im after is the best drop in filter.

Thinking I'll stick with foam and see how it goes

The theory is that due to large fuel dilution in these engines a decent amount of the combustion contents ends up in the oil.
 

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I am in the USA and from the car being new went with the aFe dry (non-oiled) drop-in filter, purchased from EuroCompulsion- AFE POWER MAGNUM FLOW AIR FILTER (FIAT 124 SPIDER/ABARTH) - EUROCOMPULSION They also sell the same aFe filter as an oiled filter, if you're inclined to stay with oiled. For oiled, I'd go for the aFe any day of the week before K&N.

In the description you'll read the claims of better air flow and filtration over stock. Old message thread conversations with Greg at EC are what sold me on it. I remove it at the end of each driving year (around 5000 miles) and let it soak in the kitchen sink while I change the motor oil, submerged in warm water with a few drops of dish detergent. After soaking, I'll swish it around in the soapy water, flipping it and dunking it to work the dust loose. Then I back flush it with a copious amount of warm water to rinse the dirt and soap out from the intake side, then set it in front of a fan to thoroughly dry before reinstalling. I like to think that between the filter and my maintenance of it, I'm going above the FCA minimum to provide clean air into my engine, and thus helping the engine oil be cleaner as well.

(A thought on the water rinse- if your home water supply is hard, after faucet rinsing, and while still wet, I'd give a final rinse by flushing a gallon of distilled water through it to prevent mineral buildup in the filter media. If you use softened water at home, I'd still final rinse with distilled. Softened water does have traces of salt in it. Just my opinion.)

Can the aFe filter be imported to you? The import costs are only a one-time expense, and hopefully the filter would then provide a cost effective and reputable service life over the disposable filters.

As for disposable filters for my other vehicles, for a long time I've used Purolator air filters, replacing them annually (10-12,000 mioes). I don't know if they can be bought in your area, but they do offer one for our cars with the stock air box. Purolator: Filter Lookup

Steve.
 

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I'm 30k miles so its very likely dirt showing up as silicon . Engine well run in to get rid of silicone from manufacture.

However, seeing as the oem setup is a CAI anyway, all im after is the best drop in filter.

Thinking I'll stick with foam and see how it goes

The theory is that due to large fuel dilution in these engines a decent amount of the combustion contents ends up in the oil.
I recommend follow up with the oil analysis
I don't see any fuel dilution issue even with constant track driving. My oil analysis have very little to none fuel
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Interesting.

On the other thread, I commented my dilution had been done via flash point test, which Xtreme tells me is not particulalry accurate. It measured zero. His tests via gas chrom have come back very high, hence pretty hefty dilution. Reading around, it seems that is somewhat true, although a high GC test would also probably show a higher flashpoint test.

Either way, I don't like silicon at 27ppm. I did fresh oil change today, so will do another sample in 500 miles.

Cheers
 
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