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Ok, so my dealer is like 3.5 hours away. I sold be Abarth 500C to get the 124 Abarth. My first oil change in the 500C I did at a little Fiat dealer about 2 hours away, and it was just like going to the Jeep dealer, since it was.......

After that, I took it to the Fiat dealer in Portland (3.5hrs away) and received great service. Basically took it to them once a year.....

But now I have the 124, and thinking I should just do it my self. Seen a few videos, and looks easy, and I have a lift, and have done plenty of oil changes, but I have a few questions:

1. Oil filter? Factory or aftermarket? I don't mind spend a few dollars more for the Mopar version ( Magneti Merelli?) It looks like the original is more of a mesh filter than a standard material? Any recommendations?

2. Should I get a few replacement drain plug seals? Part number?

3. Will my local Jeep dealer have drain plug seal or factory filter? Anyone have part numbers?

4. Any other things I should check when doing the oil change that the dealer would do?

5. Last but not least, the oil...... I did read the fixed link here, so it sounds like Valovline or Castrol meet the specs, and is easy to find locally, or should I go with Amsoil or the Shell Helix (Ferrari recommended)? The car is not used on the track/ The other question is, what does the dealer put in it????

Thanks for your help, as I know there are many threads regarding oil changes
Your advice is appreciated.
 

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I use Pennzoil with Mann filters, but here’s a thread that lists it all....

 

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Ok, so my dealer is like 3.5 hours away. I sold be Abarth 500C to get the 124 Abarth. My first oil change in the 500C I did at a little Fiat dealer about 2 hours away, and it was just like going to the Jeep dealer, since it was.......

After that, I took it to the Fiat dealer in Portland (3.5hrs away) and received great service. Basically took it to them once a year.....

But now I have the 124, and thinking I should just do it my self. Seen a few videos, and looks easy, and I have a lift, and have done plenty of oil changes, but I have a few questions:

1. Oil filter? Factory or aftermarket? I don't mind spend a few dollars more for the Mopar version ( Magneti Merelli?) It looks like the original is more of a mesh filter than a standard material? Any recommendations?

2. Should I get a few replacement drain plug seals? Part number?

3. Will my local Jeep dealer have drain plug seal or factory filter? Anyone have part numbers?

4. Any other things I should check when doing the oil change that the dealer would do?

5. Last but not least, the oil...... I did read the fixed link here, so it sounds like Valovline or Castrol meet the specs, and is easy to find locally, or should I go with Amsoil or the Shell Helix (Ferrari recommended)? The car is not used on the track/ The other question is, what does the dealer put in it????

Thanks for your help, as I know there are many threads regarding oil changes
Your advice is appreciated.
1. Wix

2. No

5. Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40 Classic ESP Synthetic, @XtremeRevolution is an Amsoil dealer.
 

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I just completed my second top side oil change this afternoon, and all went swimmingly. In fact, the only thing I have to disconnect and move out of the way is the V4 intake from the turbo inlet. Then I can access the oil filter with a 27mm socket and a 10" extension for my socket wrench. Once loosened, I can reach down and carefully push pipes out of the way to remove the filter and then carefully replace it with a new filter and o-ring installed. I say carefully, because the first time I did this, I dropped the filter unit and it was a bit of a fishing expedition to get my hands on it for recovery and installation. lol

I change my oil faithfully every 5000 kilometers, and it never ceases to amaze me that:
a) how black the used oil appears
b) that my engine consumes about half a litre during that same interval

All told, the materials (4 litres of spec'd oil and a new filter kit) run me about $75 CAD, which would be something like $50 USD. I don't do it to save money. I do it because I can. :)

The info from Ameridan's blog site, and the posts here on this forum make projects like this easy to understand and do. My thanks to all who have provided input into these various "how to" discussions.
 

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I just completed my second top side oil change this afternoon, and all went swimmingly. In fact, the only thing I have to disconnect and move out of the way is the V4 intake from the turbo inlet. Then I can access the oil filter with a 27mm socket and a 10" extension for my socket wrench. Once loosened, I can reach down and carefully push pipes out of the way to remove the filter and then carefully replace it with a new filter and o-ring installed. I say carefully, because the first time I did this, I dropped the filter unit and it was a bit of a fishing expedition to get my hands on it for recovery and installation. lol

I change my oil faithfully every 5000 kilometers, and it never ceases to amaze me that:
a) how black the used oil appears
b) that my engine consumes about half a litre during that same interval

All told, the materials (4 litres of spec'd oil and a new filter kit) run me about $75 CAD, which would be something like $50 USD. I don't do it to save money. I do it because I can. :)

The info from Ameridan's blog site, and the posts here on this forum make projects like this easy to understand and do. My thanks to all who have provided input into these various "how to" discussions.

Same here. First time I used a top sider to extract the oil, and I am sold
 

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Is there any down side to this process? Would the oil ever need to be changed via traditional methods every so often for some reason?
I wouldn't think so, but certainly no expert. Other than removing the V4 intake hose, as CDPond indicated, it was pretty painless. I would think it is a lot more work to jack the car, keeping it level, to then drain the oil. On my truck it is easy to crawl underneath with lots of room, so I wouldn't mind doing it from the bottom. Plus it is a diesel truck so more oil to drain. The hardest part here was waiting for the engine and oil to get warm before sticking the plastic tube down the oil dipstick tube. Plug the extractor in to the air compressor, and then crack a cold one and watch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the advice. I did mine from underneath, and used a factory filter. Kinda a pain, but not a big deal. Got my oil changed before the winter, and had some time on my hands due to the virus, I noticed my goofy oil change sticker came off, so I now use these
76711
 

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Well, I digress, it has been raining a monsoon here for the last couple of weeks, so yesterday I went in the shop and changed the break in oil and filter on my new tractor, lol. 9 Quarts of Rotella T4
 

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If you have a lift, then you just solved half the problem for a standard oil change On this car!

(Oil plug at the front of the pan, so car has to be level or tilted forward to get most/all the oil out).
 

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I did an oil drain from the top. For the hell of it (and because I had to retrieve a socket I dropped) after I sucked all out, I pulled drain plug, no oil came out. Car was level. All oil changes have been topside since. Less risk, less mess, fewer tools and quicker.
 
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