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Discussion Starter #1
My build date is 12/16 so the fluid is coming up on four years old. Thinking of going ahead and changing it but thought I'd see if anyone else had done this job and if they could share their experience. While we are on this subject, how about the clutch fluid.
I've done my 2011 Honda Element brake fluid three times now so I know a little bit about what to expect.
 

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2017 Spider Abarth AT
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I have a '17, purchased in '16, and I did change my brake fluid last year...but I also changed my brakes at the same time. I had the factory non-Brembos on my Abarth, and went with Wilwood four-piston brakes. SInce the '17 U.S. models came with DOT 3 brake fluid, I took the opportunity to change to DOT 4. I believe the newer models come with DOT 4 fluid. My main reason for the switch is that the DOT 4 fluid has a higher boiling boiling point than DOT 3, 401F for DOT3 vs. 446F for DOT 4. I live in a hot climate and drive the car hard so there's less potential for brake fade with DOT 4.. All brake fluid needs to be changed because it absorbs water, which lowers the boiling point of the fluid anyway, so i took the opportunity when I did the brakes. Can't speak to the clutch fluid...mine's an auto.
 

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I changed mine before I went to Fiats on the Dragon for some peace of mind. Fairly easy to do. I only needed to remove the rear tires to access the caliper nipple. For the front ones, just turning them is sufficient to gain access. Just put some grease around the nipple so the extractor doesn't suck much air.
 

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2017 Fiat 124 Abarth
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I took 2017 Abarth (w/ 25k miles) in for a couple warranty issues and an oil change the other day. While I was waiting, they recommended changing the brake fluid because moisture had built up in the system. I hadn't noticed a performance difference, but I told them to go ahead and change it. Feels the same as it did before, but I guess there's piece of mind. I changed the rotors and pads to Powerstop z23's a couple months ago too. They were squealing like hell, and I was surprised to see that the rear pads were shot with limited mileage. It's been a quirky little car.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I changed mine before I went to Fiats on the Dragon for some peace of mind. Fairly easy to do. I only needed to remove the rear tires to access the caliper nipple. For the front ones, just turning them is sufficient to gain access. Just put some grease around the nipple so the extractor doesn't suck much air.
Grease around the nipple. What a good idea. I have a mighty vac that I've been using but plagued by the air getting sucked past the threads.
 
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Grease around the nipple. What a good idea. I have a mighty vac that I've been using but plagued by the air getting sucked past the threads.
I changed the brake fluid on my three cars in one day and remembered the grease trick on the last two wheels of the last car (the 124)...
 

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Changed brake fluid a few months ago. I was on the (EU) stock DOT 4 and upgraded to 5.1 for better heat management and brake confidence. I do the odd track day and have previously experienced sudden brake fluid/line failure at 270 km/h driving a friend's M2 on Paul Ricard (which luckily has massive runoffs) - it was terrifying and something I would rather avoid in this car.
I have the stock Brembos and it must however be noted that on previous occasions when my braking system overheated it was more caused by the stock pads (that are not Brembos, just plain Mazda OEM!) than the brake fluid or lines. Changed the lines and fluid just as a cheap safety improvement. Even before changing the pads afterwards, it definitely felt better just with that change, both cold or hot.
On another note, like @austin_van_bogh, I also noticed my rear pads were completely shot within 10 000 km, while my front ones were only about 50% worn. Have heard various theories as to why this is but nothing certain.
 
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