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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just got a local shop install the BOV for me. He never got the proper 124 instruction, but he looked up the 500 one.

It does make the BOV sound after releasing the gas pedal or i'm off the gas.

But the turbo also sounds louder, the car doesn't pull as hard. I was on the freeway and it feels like the turbo spooling up is louder than before

Going back to the shop tomorrow

It definitely looks like a boost leak to me

Any ideas?
 

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It does sound like a leak. Are you sure you bought the correct kit? Who did you buy it from?

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)

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Did you get the kit for the 124 or the Abarth?

It does sound like a leak. Are you sure you bought the correct kit? Who did you buy it from?

Greg


Hi,

I bought it from Eurocompulsion

It is the atmosphere one in this link

https://shopeurocompulsion.net/products/forge-motorsports-blow-off-valves.

I just opened the hood and checked. Everything looks like it's connected and tie down properly.

But seriously the turbo is wayyyyy louder than before, and there is no acceleration..
 

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Pretty sure that means the 500 Abarth, which has a different engine than the other 500s. For the 124, it's the same engine either version so I think you need the 124 version. I'm sure Greg can verify.

Did you get the kit for the 124 or the Abarth?
I choose abarth ...why is there a difference?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pretty sure that means the 500 Abarth, which has a different engine than the other 500s. For the 124, it's the same engine either version so I think you need the 124 version. I'm sure Greg can verify.
oh...what now then...the website didnt specific and the drop down menu was a bit confusing. I was like I have an abarth so I should go with that.


It is already on the engine and the OEM diverter valve is ...I dont know somewhere in the bin?

Doesnt the 500 Abarth has the same engine as the Fiat 124?

And the rest of the mechanics of the BOV should work the same
 

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I think there are some differences that might have to deal with the plumbing in fitting the engine. I know the thermostat is different between the two. Certainly a question for EC. Their menu isn't clear though, you're right about that.

Pretty sure that means the 500 Abarth, which has a different engine than the other 500s. For the 124, it's the same engine either version so I think you need the 124 version. I'm sure Greg can verify.
oh...what now then...the website didnt specific and the drop down menu was a bit confusing. I was like I have an abarth so I should go with that.


It is already on the engine and the OEM diverter valve is ...I dont know somewhere in the bin?

Doesnt the 500 Abarth has the same engine as the Fiat 124?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
oh right guys, thx for the help

apparently it was the two evap valve got discounted

How can i be so blind and didn't see it last night.

thought there was something wrong with the BOV connections.

God **** it
 

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Glad this has worked out. From our site, it's impossible to buy the wrong one because all the cars on the application list use the same part. It's just a question of some minor differences in the instructions, and even those are pretty much the same. So, once we determine that you have the correct part, any issue really has to be an installation issue (I have never seen a defective Forge valve). It makes sense that it was just some hoses misconnected. that's pretty easy to do.

Greg
 

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@Greg


I installed the Forge BOV on thursday and did quite a bit of romping around with it. Everything seemed fine for the post part. Friday morning I went on a 45 minute pretty spirited drive, parked, then an hour or so later I hit the road again. That second time on the road after a bit more hard driving I came to the realization I was no longer hearing the BOV hiss so much as a light sputter and spool of the turbo and then I also realized the car was starting to lose power and I couldn't hear the pops and bangs from Phase 2.



After noticing this the car threw a P2261 code which is related to the BOV. My first instinct was that I popped a vacuum line. So I pulled over, checked all all my IC piping, vacuum lines, evap lines, anything related to the BOV. Everything seemed to be in perfect order, plus all my lines have fasteners on the end so they don't pop off. So I cleared the trouble code and started on my way again. The car stayed in limp mode pretty much the whole way home though so the problem didn't go away.


I did a little research and realized that the BOV came with the yellow spring installed and I needed the blue spring. So later yesterday afternoon I went in and once again checked the vacuum lines then replaced the yellow spring for the blue, then reflashed the ECU with the EC Phase 2 to maybe reset it and tried driving it around like that. The car still felt the same, lack of power, more of a BOV sputter then a PFFFT like the first day, and the car which violently popped and banged before is as quiet as a mouse.



I can't seem to make heads or tails of whats going on and I am hoping to get this figured out before I go on the Dyno tuesday and the track next saturday. I did a bit of research on the 500 and Dart forums but i've only seen this code mentioned a handful of times and their issues are usually vacuum related. I am wondering if I have a small tear in a vacuum line that I can't see.



The car doesn't feel weird, just slower, just almost slightly slower then a stock classica. I popped off the intake and checked the impeller wheels, there doesn't seem to be any visible damage. I looked at the break down for all the possible causes of the P2261 code and trying to slowly work my way down the list of possibilities but I still haven't come across anything. The vacuum lines are new, BOV new, Intercooler and piping are new. Even the turbo is new since they had to warranty replace a new one for me maybe 2500 miles ago if that.



Here is the breakdown for the code. Any help or feedback would truly be appreciated.



P2261 code definition

Turbo/Super Charger Bypass Valve - Mechanical
What the P2261 code means

The P2261 diagnostic trouble code is an indication that the turbo/super charger bypass valve mechanical control circuit is giving the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) a reading that is abnormal.
The purpose of the turbocharger is to force air into the engine in order to increase horsepower. This is accomplished when the turbocharger moves impellers that are located in two separate housing chambers.
The impeller in the first chamber turns as engine exhaust pressure is forced through it. The impeller in the first chamber then turns the impeller in the second chamber. The second chamber impeller picks up cooler air from intercoolers and the turbocharger intake system and forces dense air into the engine.
Fuel that is dense boosts increased horsepower, and the rise of revolutions per minute (RPM). Boost pressure is achieved with high RPMs, and the engine cannot operate properly if boost pressure is excessively high or low (boost pressure specifications are determined by the manufacturer and programmed into the PCM).
When the boost pressure is higher or lower than the predetermined specifications, the PCM will store the P2261 trouble code, and the Check Engine Light will come on.
What causes the P2261 code?


  • Intake manifold vacuum leak
  • Dirty air cleaner
  • Wastegate that is stuck open
  • Wastegate that is stuck closed
  • Faulty intercooler
  • Bolts between the turbocharger and exhaust manifold that are loose
  • Faulty boost sensor
  • Boost sensor wiring that is shorted or open
  • Boost sensor reference circuit connectors that are loose, disconnected, or corroded
  • Turbo failure caused by internal oil leaks and/or oil supply restrictions
What are the symptoms of the P2261 code?


  • Difficulty with acceleration
  • Rattling sound coming from the turbocharger and/or turbo pipes
  • Smoke coming from the exhaust
  • High engine temperatures
  • High transmission temperatures
  • Hissing sound coming from the turbocharger wastegate and/or turbocharger hoses
  • Loss of engine performance
  • Unusual boost pressure levels
  • Fouled spark plug
  • Cylinder combustion
  • Other diagnostic trouble codes stored along with P2261, such as boost codes, engine misfire codes, or knock sensor codes
How does a mechanic diagnose the P2261 code?


  • Inspects wiring and connectors for shorts, burns, and corrosion
  • Clears the codes and runs the engine (if the P2261 code does not come back, it is an indication that an intermittent problem exists, which cannot always be diagnosed immediately)
  • Makes sure there are no misfire conditions
  • Makes sure that the turbo hose clamps are tight
  • Makes sure that the turbo intake hoses and intercooler hoses are free from leaks and cracks
  • Makes sure that the air intake hoses are tight and not damaged in any way.
  • Makes sure that the vacuum lines are not cracked, torn, or disconnected.
  • While running the engine, gets the RPMs up to 5,000 and releases the throttle (uses a boost gauge to observe boost pressure levels)
If boost pressure levels are above 19 lbs., this is an indication that the westgate is faulty.
If boost pressure levels fall below 14 lbs., this is an indication that there is a problem with the turbocharger or exhaust.

  • Uses a vacuum pump to see if the wastegate is functioning properly
If an extreme drop in boost pressure is observed, this is an indication that the wastegate is not closing completely.
If low boost pressure is observed, this is an indication that the wastegate is not opening completely.

  • Inspects the inside of the turbo outlet hose for standing oil
  • Inspects the impeller for damage and whether the impeller is making contact with the inner housing and checks to make sure that there are no loose bearings (if any of these conditions exist, it is an indication that the turbocharger is defective)
  • Checks the voltage and resistance of the turbocharger boost sensor electrical circuitry and connectors (if the voltage and resistance readings do not coincide with the specifications that have been predetermined by the manufacturer, the circuitry will need to be replaced or repaired, as necessary)
Common mistakes when diagnosing the P2261 code


  • One common mistake when diagnosing the P2261 trouble code is not inspecting the turbocharger oil system to determine whether it is necessary to clear debris and/or obstructions.
  • Another mistake that is commonly made is replacing the turbocharger before making sure the wastegate and circuitry is operating properly.
How serious is the P2261 code?

The symptoms of the P2261 diagnostic trouble code will affect the overall engine performance of the vehicle. Some of these symptoms include:

  • a lack of power
  • poor acceleration
  • spark plugs fouling out
These symptoms will make the vehicle difficult to operate. For this reason, the P2261 trouble code is considered a serious one and should be diagnosed and repaired as soon as possible.
What repairs can fix the P2261 code?


  • Replacing damaged vacuum line
  • Replacing intake manifold gasket
  • Replacing air filter
  • Replacing wastegate
  • Replacing intercooler
  • Replacing or tightening bolts between the turbocharger and exhaust manifold
  • Replacing boost sensor
  • Repairing or replacing boost sensor wiring
  • Repairing or replacing boost sensor reference circuit connectors
  • Replacing turbo or oil lines leading to the turbo that are restricted
 

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This sounds to me like either incorrectly routed vacuum lines or a stuck solenoid and or valve. I would start by carefully double checking that the lines to and from the solenoid are connected correctly. That's almost always the problem. Then if that doesn't work, I would check the solenoid with a 9V battery, there are multiple youtube videos showing how to do that. If the lines and solenoid check out it could be a bad valve. If any of the parts are bad and you bought it from us, then contact us.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This sounds to me like either incorrectly routed vacuum lines or a stuck solenoid and or valve. I would start by carefully double checking that the lines to and from the solenoid are connected correctly. That's almost always the problem. Then if that doesn't work, I would check the solenoid with a 9V battery, there are multiple youtube videos showing how to do that. If the lines and solenoid check out it could be a bad valve. If any of the parts are bad and you bought it from us, then contact us.

Greg
Jesus, Greg this was 5 years ago but thank you. Apparently they forgot to connect the lines back on the intake and that was it..
 

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Jesus, Greg this was 5 years ago but thank you. Apparently they forgot to connect the lines back on the intake and that was it..
Ahm, I was responding to Juan, who posted a few hours ago and mentioned me specifically. I know that you started this thread about 9 months ago, I responded to you as well about a day later. I usually respond to people within a day or so. Even on the weekends, we try not to leave anyone out in the dark.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Jesus, Greg this was 5 years ago but thank you. Apparently they forgot to connect the lines back on the intake and that was it..
Ahm, I was responding to Juan, who posted a few hours ago and mentioned me specifically. I know that you started this thread about 9 months ago, I responded to you as well about a day later. I usually respond to people within a day or so. Even on the weekends, we try not to leave anyone out in the dark.

Greg
Greg, my savior. I hope you can chime in on the TPMS possibility with adding external PIDs, if you can help out
 
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