Fiat 124 Spider Forum banner

1 - 20 of 89 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was stepping on someone else's thread, here, so figured I should start my own.

Only had the car a few months, but it sometimes has a flat spot in the acceleration that bugged me. Research said to do a boost leak test. Tester arrived Tuesday, and I set it up yesterday. Opened the oil cap, and found something to plug the green marked hose at the air box. (That was one of the tricky parts.)


Lens pen fit perfectly...


Anyway, an obvious leak was making noise. Passenger side, low, in front of the air box. In the other thread, a member I.D.ed that as the I.C. outlet connection. I jacked the car up, pulled the inner panel out of passenger side, and there she was.


With the help of my daughter, I located the leak on the long side of the flange, as I was told to expect.
Right there.


That was it for Wednesday, as it got hot in the garage...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
This morning the plan was to remove the three nuts, clean and check the gasket, and figure a way to seal it up.

Unfortunately, the two bottom nuts did not want to let loose. Instead the stud was turning with the nut. Not sure why at the time, and still don't.
The bottom two. I was told this is not unusual.


I decided to try my impact set low. That got them loose, with no apparent damage.


The connector pulled right off. There was noticeable oil in the joint.


The flimsy, little green ring is the gasket, and it looks replaceable. But I don't know if it would help much.




And this is the cleaned up mating surface.


Need to consider options, before I just gunk sealant in there. Maybe I can find an o-ring the right size to fit the groove?
Anyway...hot in the garage again...back tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I find it odd, that the outlet gasket, Mopar (68313821AA), is listed as discontinued.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,225 Posts
The gasket for the other side is thicker and looks a potential solution! It's a thicker grey gasket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The gasket for the other side is thicker and looks a potential solution! It's a thicker grey gasket.
Ah, but is the diameter the same?
I would pay the $27 if it worked...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So....
Anyone got a stock intercooler apart, or on the self? Is the outlet and intake gasket the same size?
The outlet tube gasket is discontinued - item #24, but the intake tube gasket looks similar - item #16

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Same issue here. I have an appointment to have it looked at on Monday.
Mine won’t pressurize beyond 17-18 psi. Leaks out the passenger side. Unfortunately the bolts won’t come loose at all. The stud just spins inside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
784 Posts
Outlet and intake gaskets are NOT the same. The green one is smaller in diameter and slightly thinner. I tried swapping them over, and the thicker gasket does not fit in the groove of the green one. They are also not "O"rings as such, the have a "square" cross section. I had a stock intercooler in the shed, and tried to with gaskets side to side, and no go. I wonder if permatex, or other brands' ultra copper sealant would work? It is designed for high temp application. Maybe use it in conjunction with the green gasket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Outlet and intake gaskets are NOT the same. The green one is smaller in diameter and slightly thinner. I tried swapping them over, and the thicker gasket does not fit in the groove of the green one. They are also not "O"rings as such, the have a "square" cross section. I had a stock intercooler in the shed, and tried to with gaskets side to side, and no go. I wonder if permatex, or other brands' ultra copper sealant would work? It is designed for high temp application. Maybe use it in conjunction with the green gasket?
Good to know. Now I won't try to take the other side off..LOL...

The groove in the elbow is 4mm deep, 2.5mm wide, I.D. is 46mm, and O.D. is 51mm
I am wondering if a 45mm I.D., 54mm O.D. X 5mm think Viton O-ring can be squeezed in? They are good for 450º F.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
784 Posts
Worth a shot, but the difference in OD is significant, it may not stay in place...I'm thinking a smaller OD might "stretch" to fit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Worth a shot, but the difference in OD is significant, it may not stay in place...I'm thinking a smaller OD might "stretch" to fit?
Yes, may not work...Smaller may be better.
So, I am now looking at a 45mm I.D. 51mm O.D. X 3mm...
Now, the 3mm in a 4mm groove won't work, but I was thinking maybe two stacked?
Either that, or go with a 5-6mm thick o-ring and mill out the groove O.D. a little more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
784 Posts
You really can't stack o rings, they will squeeze away from each other. If you can't find a close fit, then personally I would try the ultra copper. Fill the groove with a nice small bead, place the gasket, and lay another bead over that. I really would not do any milling, or other drastic measures!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
You really can't stack o rings, they will squeeze away from each other. If you can't find a close fit, then personally I would try the ultra copper. Fill the groove with a nice small bead, place the gasket, and lay another bead over that. I really would not do any milling, or other drastic measures!
Call me crazy!...No, just kidding. Just throwing out ideas, mostly to myself. Good call on the double o-rings.
I wouldn't try milling unless I had a spare part. But I believe that would work.
Not a big fan of sealant.

Now that I understand the design and wierd gasket, I can dig a little deeper.

Thanks for the help. More to come after I run to the doctors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Same issue here. I have an appointment to have it looked at on Monday.
Mine won’t pressurize beyond 17-18 psi. Leaks out the passenger side. Unfortunately the bolts won’t come loose at all. The stud just spins inside.
Are they doing it under warranty?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,225 Posts
One thing to consider is that when you mount it back to the connection further up, that longest side of the flange gets pulled apart again. I did experiment with an o ring I had lying around but it still wouldn't seal.

It's why I resorted to zip ties and sealing round the actual flange. You will no doubt find a neater solution but I struggled to make an o ring work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bob T

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,605 Posts
If you find even a little smaller O ring, if you put a little RTV into the grove, then stretch the O ring and apply some wood so to hold the O ring in place, apply some heat with a hair dryer so the RTV dries faster and O ring will keep some shape. after 2 days, RTV should be dried and then you could put it back. The groove will hold the O ring with the RTV. I have done this when for other purposes and it worked. If ever it needs to be taken apart again, the piece is not glued.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bob T

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
One thing to consider is that when you mount it back to the connection further up, that longest side of the flange gets pulled apart again. I did experiment with an o ring I had lying around but it still wouldn't seal.

It's why I resorted to zip ties and sealing round the actual flange. You will no doubt find a neater solution but I struggled to make an o ring work.
Understood. I found some of your posts on it, during my hours of reading....LOL...
I realize I am walking a path others have walked, and taking the same wrong turns others have.
But I have a few days of rain ahead, I am retired, and like problems.
So I thank you all for the feedback.

I may take this issue over to collective hive mind of a vintage Suzuki forum I belong to. This sort of thing is right up their alley...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
If you find even a little smaller O ring, if you put a little RTV into the grove, then stretch the O ring and apply some wood so to hold the O ring in place, apply some heat with a hair dryer so the RTV dries faster and O ring will keep some shape. after 2 days, RTV should be dried and then you could put it back. The groove will hold the O ring with the RTV. I have done this when for other purposes and it worked. If ever it needs to be taken apart again, the piece is not glued.
Worth considering.
I had thought of filling the groove with something, so a 3mm thick O-ring would still stand proud of the surface. My first thought was a machined ring, (had I not retired, I had a guy that could have done it.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,225 Posts
Look forward to what you do! I may redo mine with your solution if all works out :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bob T
1 - 20 of 89 Posts
Top