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Worth considering.
I had thought of filling the groove with something, so a 3mm thick O-ring would still stand proud of the surface. My first thought was a machined ring, (had I not retired, I had a guy that could have done it.)
i woukd not mind having 1 O ring
 
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That flange design is a bit strange. I wonder it was meant to flex and leak above a certain pressure.
Very poor design indeed. I can't imagine the engineers would plan on a leak there to relieve pressure when that's the waste gate actuator's job.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
That flange design is a bit strange. I wonder it was meant to flex and leak above a certain pressure.
I don't think so. I've had it on and off several times, varying my tightening sequence and torque. One time it didn't start leaking until 20-21psi. So I think it can work, if everything is perfectly aligned and tightened.

Got to hot to continue today. More tomorrow.
 

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Are we entertaining far out solutions, yet? If so, a copper crush gasket could work - of the type used on steam fittings. I used a thin, smooth-type gasket to replace an inlet tube o-ring on a second generation Ram/Cummins IC a few years ago - plastic to metal, the failed o-ring was in the plastic tubepiece, the flat IC interface was metal, and the crush gasket worked well. If interested, check out the McMaster-Carr catalogue online; they come in various sizes and forms (smooth, corrugated, etc).
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Basic Silicone RTV or the 6000 series GOOP clear sealant. Just add a small bead as suggested above. It won't make an unbreakable seal but will get rid of your leak until you break the seal. Even slathering the oring with some higher temp grease like Krytox might condition what you have to make a seal again. I highly doubt they got any treatment at all and were just thrown in dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Basic Silicone RTV or the 6000 series GOOP clear sealant. Just add a small bead as suggested above. It won't make an unbreakable seal but will get rid of your leak until you break the seal. Even slathering the oring with some higher temp grease like Krytox might condition what you have to make a seal again. I highly doubt they got any treatment at all and were just thrown in dry.
And that's where we are right now. As much as I don't like sealant, this would be the simplest solution if it works.
Had to run out for a tube first. (Of course everything I had was dried up)
It's curing now, I'll know tomorrow.
Thanks for all the advice!
 
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Hope it works for you. Do you have a boost gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
24 hour cure was up this morning. Checked that the nuts were snugged up, and tested the system.
I heard it just start to leak at about 24psi, fell off pretty quick to 20-21psi, and good from there. (slow drop).

At this point I am calling it good enough...Unless the test drive tells me something different.
I may revisit it later. (And I will start saving for the EC IC.... )
 

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Yeah, there is way more leak through the evap hose off the intercooler pipework anyway. Try unbunging the end of that at 25psi and you'll drop almost immediately. Sounds like you have it about there.

I think I saw 10-12 seconds from 24 to 20....the rule of thumb is 1psi per second tops, ideally less.
 
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24 hour cure was up this morning. Checked that the nuts were snugged up, and tested the system.
I heard it just start to leak at about 24psi, fell off pretty quick to 20-21psi, and good from there. (slow drop).

At this point I am calling it good enough...Unless the test drive tells me something different.
I may revisit it later. (And I will start saving for the EC IC.... )
Hopefully that restored some faith in RTV. I had been in the auto tech industry for over 40 years, and RTV, with judicious use, has solved many sealing problems. Heck, form all the water pump failure posts on this forum, seems that RTV was the only thing used in the factory. Failed experiment? Misapplication? In the 1980's we installed many valve cover gaskets on GM products that came from the factory with only RTV. The main reason for RTV failure is due to improperly prepared surfaces...they need to be spotlessly clean and free of any contaminants such as oil, grease. And of course, just "a dab will do you". I've seen many engine failures due to too much RTV on the oil pan to block surfaces. The stuff just squeezes out, migrates into the oil pan, and blocks the oil pump pick up. I hope you cured your issue...pun intended...and save your pennies the the EC intercooler.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Got in a couple test drives yesterday. Much improved. I'll post a little more detail later.

Hopefully that restored some faith in RTV.
No problem with RTV here, when used as designed. We used a bunch of the stuff in the industrial control industry, also. And put together enough motorcycle cases to trust it.
Just don't like fixing "problems" with it, especially as a shortcut.

I still think there is a better way, and I do have some square section o-rings coming. But for now, gonna leave it alone.

Anyway, thanks a bunch for the input. And that goes for all a ya....
 

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From the start I reckon. Its basically by the way the flange is bolted.

But it's fine for stock tune as the turbo will make up for lost boost to a point.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Is this a common issue and at how many miles can one expect this to happen?
From the start I reckon. Its basically by the way the flange is bolted.

But it's fine for stock tune as the turbo will make up for lost boost to a point.
This....
Mine had 3700 miles on it, when I bought it in March, and as far as I could tell, no one ever had it apart before.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I wish I took video of the "before" repair test, but I did't. When I first checked, I could hear the leak start about 14psi, and could hardly get the pressure up to 20psi, (with a compressor).

So here is the video after the RTV bead repair. No sound in the video, (had the radio on, oops), but I heard it start to leak about 24psi. Ran it up to 26-27psi. It came down fairly quick to the mid 20s, but good enough after that.

The test video:

Seems "not bad" too me.

Went for a short test ride on the 640 bypass after putting it back together, and a second, longer test drive later in the evening. It felt better, with the flattish spot around 4-5K much improved.

Once I figure out how to log with the Torque app, I'll try some runs with that.

One thing I did learn. I am not going to bother with the Phase 2 until I get the EC IC.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 

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Thinking about what to use to plug the hose with the green clip (actually look at WTF is a LensPen and how much it cost...) then remembered I have a 3D printer...
Did some crude measurements, jumped into an online free CAD software and a few hours later, voila!
Worst case scenario, it doesn't work on the 124 and I've made myself a weird but plug... That's a Win-Win in my book! :p 😀
78418

78419
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thinking about what to use to plug the hose with the green clip (actually look at WTF is a LensPen and how much it cost...) then remembered I have a 3D printer...
Did some crude measurements, jumped into an online free CAD software and a few hours later, voila!
Worst case scenario, it doesn't work on the 124 and I've made myself a weird but plug... That's a Win-Win in my book! :p 😀
The LensPen was a promotional giveaway, for entering a video contest. But the taper on the end was perfect, unlike your butt plug. :unsure: :D:ROFLMAO:

 
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