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Brexit Mods

29K views 240 replies 19 participants last post by  Brexit ! 
#1 ·
Hi again Folks (since my New Member post earlier) and Thank you for your time....I just wanted to share what I have done with my 124 Spider Classica since buying it in March this year as I noted lots of advice from Brian Goodwin of Good-Win Racing and plenty of useful stuff from you guys then acted upon it with some pretty good results, here goes............
Okay, following the test drive, purchase, watching Youtube test videos and reading up I decided on a plan of action starting with a Performance Air Filter...I fitted a Pipercross but could have easily have been K & N, I read up on the Plugs but kept originals as they do up to 25K whereas alternative NGK's do 20K and Brisk silver 15K with some concerns.... I fitted a GFB Diverter + valve to reduce turbo lag and it does by replacing the in / out plastic piston with a brass piston that gradually opens with pedal movement, I also checked out the Alfa 4c & Bosch coil packs but decided on a set of 500 Madness Red topped High Performance versions from the USA, same coil packs but cheaper and on offer (customs duty though). Next I considered my soft braking and went for EBC Yellow Stuff, easy fit and now I have brakes! Turning my attention to the weedy exhaust note and not liking the Abarth version "noise" I went for a Good-Win Dual Tip that has "That Burble" and only available via "Racing Beat Europe" Importer, took 20 minutes to fit and sounds divine.
Taking the Spider through my local "Biker Bends" I found that although I had gained HP from the Performance Air Filter (3-5 hp) and 2.5 inch bore exhaust (8-11 hp) and could now stop on an old sixpenny piece (ask Granddad) the Spider still seemed to float and wanted to join me later round the bends (understeer) so I decided on going to 17" alloys feeling that BBS Le Mans (18 lbs each) Diamond Blacks wearing Michelin Pilot Sport 4's (summer tyres) would look the Dogs, keeping my original alloys as winter gear; This upgrade to 205/45 17 on 7.5 forged alloys with rim protectors should be light and strong, give better inertia and grip and I should then be able to go round corners and bends.............meanwhile whilst I await delivery from "Wheelbasealloys" on order I still want to do some spirited driving within the limits of course, so.........
I ordered a set of "Eibach" Pro-Fit coils from TMC Motorsport (NI), again on offer, reports here and from Brian Goodwin was that they are "The Business", they arrived last week and it took me about 1.5 hours per corner to exchange for OEM coils. The Eibach's have a softened top section and stiffer lower section so gradually soak up movement, they lower the front by 0-08" & rear by 1" and even without the new alloys yet my 16" OEM's are gripping whilst my turn in is superb...
Turning to the "Italian styling".....Sports cars should have leather seats, its the law! so, I ordered and had swapped out the original cloth seats for a pair of Real Black Leather with Red stitching 124 Spider seats ordered from original supplier in Malasia at a great price. I also visited ebay for a set of Real Leather with red stitching stick & handbrake gaiters, fitting in an Abarth Heated Seat Switch from a scrapyard (plugs straight in) whilst I had the center panels out.
Having "Abarthised" my Spider (with your help) I decided to de badge front and rear and re badge "Abarth" so.....I had to get to the badges....
Rear badge was simple, held in place by a bit of sticky pad and two small flexible plastic lips holding the lugs in position, using a dashboard and trim plastic spatula I gently eased up then pulled and the badge popped out, no mess. The front badge.......You cannot gain entry through grill....MGB simple, MX5 easy, 124 Spider is not accessible as there are no screws, so, I lifted bonnet and drilled out carefully the two small rivets in front plastic panel ahead of bonnet mechanism, removed the two plastic pop up plugs one either side engine side of mechanism and slid out that panel revealing another plastic panel which I cut two slots down about 4" apart then bent that panel back,so was able to access the nut that holds the bonnet badge in place. Using a 10mm ratchet cum open ended angled spanner (snap on) with a length of string attached should you drop it! I was able to ratchet the nut loose with my left medium sized hand whilst using the flat of my medium sized right hand to place the ratchet spanner over the nut and hold it there, it was not too tight. Using a long flat ended screwdriver with my left hand once spanner was withdrawn I removed the nut with the fingers of my right hand then pressed down on the nut with flat of screwdriver as I carefully withdrew hand and nut, as if you drop that nut remember to say goodbye as it goes into a void !!
I acquired Abarth front and rear badges from a scrapyard and a pair of "Abarth & Co" with Scorpion and shield original 1949 design quality cover badges, fitted the front Abarth badge and it looked terrible so then refitted front Fiat badge and applied the "Abarth & Co" badge front and rear and they look cool....I replaced the cover panel in engine bay and popped in the two poppers so no sign of entry there Officer !
I found a 124 Spider 3 cm stick on badge at £1.99 and a turbo badge at 99p on ebay and applied them front grill and rear passenger side boot lip and the Spider not only looks great on its lowered springs (that did not need re alignment), it goes well, handles and brakes and leaves many rubberneckers confused as they admire but cannot quite identify what vehicle they are following....
Thank you for your time in reading my rantings which I hope can assist or entertain you, the costs have been £14900.00 for the Spider with a years tax and full tank of Premium unleaded, around £1250.00 for all the mods, fitted by myself except seats which Auto Trim, Ivybridge, Devon kindly did for a great price. The BBS Le Mans alloys and Michelins will be some £3000.00 when they arrive but actually the OEM 16" alloys looking back would have and do do the job, just 17" does it better. So whilst the "Abarth" is the top spec 124 Spider, in my opinion.....Fiat could have produced my Classica with above mods at a couple of thousand pounds more and had a fantastic little true sports car rather than ditching it after only two years, oh, and the Sat Nav.......I bought an SD card off ebay removed the small black plastic oblong cap in lower center dashboard panel, slipped it in and got Sat Nav. Now, if only we could get Brexit done........Cheers
 
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#2 ·
Wonderful write up. Very detailed and thorough. Appreciated the time and effort to compose your thread. I will add the air filter and AutoRicambi w/resonated muffler exhaust. I will also add a rear license plate custom frame that reads Get Off (top) My Ass! (bottom) Had a Ford 250
PU truck tailgate me as I drove 48 on a 40 mph two lane road. He passed me on the right and I caught him at the light (where we waited 2 minutes for light to change). Then he got onto the interstate entrance heading north and abruptly flew into the middle line. About 2 minutes later, I saw him pulled over by a Florida State Trooper with the trooper making that "guess what I got for you" approach to his car. Hope his wife was in labor.
 
#4 ·
Hi Retiree & Dan and Thank you for your interesting responses...........Hope it wasn't someone now reading your State Trooper story Retiree........
Dan.....I did take "some" photos as I did the work and will post them now, however...it's early and cloudy here yet but later I will pull out the "Abarthised" Spider and do the after shots for you and the guys to consider, Cheers
ron?

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#7 ·
Hello Arthur and thanks for that, I am based in the PL postcode Plymouth &South East Cornwall, keeping the "Lusso" stock is great as it already has some goodies, however....the weedy exhaust note replaced by a "Burble" and Eibachs being a direct but lowered spring replacement along with a DV + are well worth the effort.....fitting the DV + you should have a cloth below area in case you drop something and must hold in brass piston as you fit new valve otherwise you will lose both piston and spring, Cheers
ron
 
#8 ·
Hi Goaterguy...I fitted the heated seat switch and connected it up (lights up) but did not fit seat pads as I never use heated seats in family car, however £25 each plus fitting so "if" I sold the Spider adding pads would be a doddle. Stuart at "Autotrim", Ivybridge was my Vehicle Trimmer, works with his Dad (40 years in the trade).Cheers
ron
 
#12 ·
Hi Arthur, Glad to see you were ahead of me on DV + , K & N and exhaust so as well as looking good it sounds and performs....by the way..the front grill 124 badge from ebay is actually a VVT-i badge, which is the technology used in the Multiair engine, Cheers
ron
 
#11 ·
Just a thought Folks.....After fitting the Eibachs I found that even sliding my extra low racing jack under the front was tight so I pulled out a length of scaffolding plank, cut off 2 x 35 cm lengths and cut angles into the ends of each...now my Spider mounts the ramps and I can jack up and support no problemo! I also listed the procedure I used to replace front and rear springs/coils should anyone fancy a go and want it copied. Being mechanically minded is a must when doing this sort of work, following safety precautions and knowing how to use a torque wrench essential as damage to vehicle, yourself and others is possible if you "forget to remove, fit or load a nut properly"....same with pads really, easy enough job but best have an experienced buddy to hand to guide and assist, Cheers
ron
 
#14 ·
Wow, you ve done a hell of mods! As far as brakes, am I right in saying you ve just changedthe front and rear rotor brakes ? At 145 £ each they are 600 £ that excluding pads... is this mod really a day/ night change i.e is it really worth it ? The whole braking system ( only front) with 4 calipers can be found at 900£ . Just wondering ...
 
#16 ·
Hi Claudio and thanks for the question.......I only changed the PADS front & Rear for EBC Yellowstuff (performance) brake pads. the Fronts part code DP42263R £58.57 Rears part code DP41775R £88.03 so £134.10 total. They are YELLOW in colour and far superior to the weak original pads which on my Spider had still only done 2000 miles when I had had enough of them. The slider outer plates are retained from old set and YOU MUST follow driving /braking instructions to avoid glazing and damage during first couple of hundred miles and you will have brake dust to clean to start with, however....They are Fantastic and save a fortune over changing calipers.
You can buy EBC RED and EBC Green but I studied reports on them and found YELLOW to be correct for road use, whereas RED was TRACK use....
I bought my set from VENOM MOTOR SPORT through ebay UK, have bought from them before and they are very good. Cheers
ron
 
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#17 ·
Hi Dan.....Yes, couldn't be happier. I did expect to find a UK based 124 Spider car club of sorts but there are so few registered in the UK, also the internet negates the need other than social meets/events. The MGOC was huge with 50000 + members worldwide back in the day but of course you had to wait for your club magazine delivery to hear any news whereas the 124Spider forum , as I have found out, supplies instant knowledge from many friends of all Nationalities which is vastly advanced on anything previously experienced by me.
When I ran the Escort Cabriolet Club we did have members in Europe and New Zealand come across and join in our events here and we travelled in convoy of 10 vehicles to Switzerland for an International Ford Event 1994, which was really successful and brings back all sorts of great memories, however....this is now and and it works ! Cheers
ron
 
#20 ·
Hi Retiree......I have only just noticed this message (no email notice?), I haven't even considered headlights as I have only had the Spider out by day and summer evenings so far and see that it has running light in operation; however Thanks as that would make sense, Have you done the job and is it just a plug in set up from engine bay ? Cheers
ron
 
#22 ·
Well unless you wish to use it only in summer , considering the weather of UK , I would absolutely suggest you to change the internal lights with led ( the original ones are an absolute joke) and the headlights if you want to improve a bit your night vision . The mod, considering what you have been doing on your car, is as easy for you as breathing . The parts to purchase and the tools needed are well covered in the forum . I am on my mobile otherwise I would post the link . Anyhow easy to find . Cheers
 
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#23 ·
Retiree& Claudio Cheers, off to find those posts and some kit, "MX Parts UK" will probably stock them anyway...
ron
 
#25 ·
Hi Potatochobit...Great Name by the way....The Spider is a 2018 model though I doubt the colours (British spelling) have changed in such a short time.....The paint code -on B post of Spider says A7V1.."Rosso Passione" is the colour of Red, which is a Solid rather than Metalic paint, (PR-895A-895B) it says in my download infomation.
Hope that helps you, Cheers
ron
 
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#32 ·
Been reading a couple of threads re preparing your Spider for winter storage........I posted my thoughts based on previous long history of owning a fun sports car and doing just that and as this thread has become a bit of a car diary.....I thought that I would just post a few details here for anyone interested.....Having first checked all systems including a full tank so no water/vapor ingress, battery charged fully and tyres inflated correctly, car washed, polished and covered I run the engine every two weeks or so to keep it all ticking over and move the wheels back and forth to avoid flat spotting. I check the battery charge or put it on my Bike/ Car trickle charger mid winter with never an issue when bringing it back into service Springtime. I have read some disturbing issues on this forum concerning the Multi Air engine "if left long term" so just a thought, eh.
Whilst on the subject of winter storage A/C (Air Con)....since having cars fitted with A/C I have thought about the long term non use during winter storage and effect on the systems seals.....they need lubrication otherwise they dry out causing leaks and/or damage so....I run my A/C a couple of times during winter (and summer in the UK weather) to keep it all working well, to check A/C is working......Engine running A/C off the center of the Compressor should be still then when you switch on A/C it should start spinning, Cheers ;)
ron
 
#33 · (Edited)
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#34 ·
Well here we are in 2020, sorted out my tools, prepared spare wheel & tyre ready to be mounted together tomorrow and serviced the wife's Honda jazz. So what did i do New years eve.........using a pair of tweezers removed the SD Sat Nav card from that daft slot, went online to Map Update Toolbox in the 124 Spider Infotainment System, signed up, logged in, downloaded my first of three download map updates and installed; The whole process took less than one hour and taking the Spider on an early New Year's day Spirited cruise / drive i am happy to report...It Worked !
Best £28 spent in buying that 124 Spider Sat Nav card off ebay back along.
DON'T buy the Mazda version, it will not work on Fiat.. Cheers
ron
 
#35 ·
I fitted a GFB Diverter + valve to reduce turbo lag and it does by replacing the in / out plastic piston with a brass piston that gradually opens with pedal movement
Hi Ron,

Read the above with real interest particularly the bit regrading the GFB Diverter + Valve as the lag/throttle response on my 124 Anniversary is the worst I've experienced since I owned a Renault GT Turbo back in the early 90s. I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with.
1. Do you know what improvement the GFB Diverter mod gives in isolation to the other mods you've done.
2. Is this only available from Good - win in the US and if so what's the best way to contact them to order etc.
3. I'm planning a remap via Celtic Tuning's Emotion 2 that requires self installation and wondered whether the installation and operation of the GFB would be completely isolated/independent from the remap or would it conflict ( Apologies although I'm reasonably clued up with auto engineering I'm not good with the operation of the GFB and the OE equipment it will replace)

Lastly have you come across any uprated clutch that is available for our 124's ( something like Sach's Organic Performance clutch would be ideal as I want the feel of the clutch to remain OE ) I understand that the original clutch fitted to the Fiat 124 is identical to the Abarth so should be ok asthe Celtic Remap pushes Power up to 170 BHP same as the Abarth, however it gives 204lbs/ft Torque which is around 20 more.

Many Thanks
 
#36 ·
Hi Ron,

Read the above with real interest particularly the bit regrading the GFB Diverter + Valve as the lag/throttle response on my 124 Anniversary is the worst I've experienced since I owned a Renault GT Turbo back in the early 90s. I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with.
1. Do you know what improvement the GFB Diverter mod gives in isolation to the other mods you've done.
2. Is this only available from Good - win in the US and if so what's the best way to contact them to order etc.
3. I'm planning a remap via Celtic Tuning's Emotion 2 that requires self installation and wondered whether the installation and operation of the GFB would be completely isolated/independent from the remap or would it conflict ( Apologies although I'm reasonably clued up with auto engineering I'm not good with the operation of the GFB and the OE equipment it will replace)

Lastly have you come across any uprated clutch that is available for our 124's ( something like Sach's Organic Performance clutch would be ideal as I want the feel of the clutch to remain OE ) I understand that the original clutch fitted to the Fiat 124 is identical to the Abarth so should be ok asthe Celtic Remap pushes Power up to 170 BHP same as the Abarth, however it gives 204lbs/ft Torque which is around 20 more.

Many Thanks
Hi napastar.....Glad to point you in the right direction....The GFB DV+ Performance Diverter Valve was fitted in conjunction with my Performance Coil Packs, Air Filter and Good-Win Dual Tip exhaust, however, I read up on it first "Brian Goodwin" saying, "If there is only one mod you should do it's the Go Fast Bits DV+ as it negates the Turbo lag. I removed the original with "plastic" piston replacing carefully with new "brass" piston assembly and instead of the plastic piston just being in or out (so lag as throttle response catches up) the brass piston moves gradually with your foot pedal pressure causes by bigger and better DV+ spring so no noticeble lag.
I paid £112 approx and ordered from Advanced Automotive Performance of Bristol UK...01179 672314 enquiries@advancedautomotives.com The item is made in Australia sales@gfb.com.au

Tuning....Hmmm I have reservations on that one. First of all my own experience is that I went along to a Tuning center in Bristol mid 1990's with some 15 or so XR3i Escort Cabrio's and one RS model, most upgraded, mine standard..new performance plugs, new air & filter, oil, the RS model had his leads blown off, the modded cars gave all sorts of results and mine was best ! So...not that convinced, but I know that the experts at "Quantum Tuning" branches everywhere say that the vehicle should have UNDER 69000 miles approx, they do a tune at £230 ish and can put back to original if you are unhappy, feedback Very Good. I'll just add that you will lower your engines lifespan most likely, so unless you want to race, don't overdo it. Yes the "Abarth" is 170hp same engine but look for a balance.
Clutch assembley & FLYWHEEL......I looked at the threads and reviews but decided not for me (yet), but i see the benefits of a lighter flywheel & stronger clutch assembley for track off the grid speed, better throttle response faster acceleration, less stress on Crankshaft & Bearings, Mazda NC used a Fidanza alluminium Flywheel from Good-Win Racing in the USA apparently but import duties at 20% is difficult but "Racing Beat Europe" (Clive Haynsford is your man) are the only UK licenced importer Brian Goodwin uses,
For UK vehicles I understand that ACT clutch assembley with pressure plates comes with all the kit and is available from "Balance Motorsport UK" or " VIPmotorsport". I would read reviews of both company's, the product offered and check out these threads for advice / guidance. but it is a job that I would carry out if I had a purpose.
Good Luck with your 2020 updates and "Look out for those Special Deals / Vouchers, Cheers
ron
 
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#37 ·
Thanks Ron . I'll get on to Advanced Automotive Performance tomorrow and get the Diverter valve ordered. I have remapped a couple of cars in the past with mixed outcomes. Both have delivered the extra performance promised but in the case of the BMW 330d coupe it did overwhelm the clutch after a few months! ( mind you it was LOL fast with over 300 BHP and 430lbs/Ft ) I've chosen Celtic Tuning as I've used them to Remap a Z4 and their self tune option via the OBD will allow me to revert to standard during the winter. Also the increases in power and most importantly torque, seem sensible by matching the Abarth for power and slightly more for torque so hopefully will not be too much for the OE clutch. I'm only looking at the clutch as a back up plan in case the OE clutch can't cope as I'll be keeping the 124 long term. I love the car and its looks and unlike the Germanic Z4, It seems to attract nothing but admiring looks and genuine positive interest.

I assume a remap will have no impact on the operation of the new Diverter Valve

Thanks again
 
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#40 ·
Hiya Apex.....This is the UK where standard garages are about 16 x 8 ft (if you are lucky), a few people have double garages to squeeze two cars in and many or course have none. I have watched many a youtube video of you guys driving in and out of your Aircraft hanger size garages and YES "I would Love one of those" !
As for working on the Spider...another inch or two passenger side and I would have been snookered ! I have that land opposite the bungalow and have rebuilt a Land Rover 90 over there plus stored two Classic vehicles for a couple of years until I became too concerned about the weathers effect on them. I did apply to the Planning office for a double length garage on that land (about 100 ft x 14 ft) but was turned down so, whilst I am fit and agile enough I work in the garage when vehicle up on stands for any length of time and outdoors usually apart from in heavy rain...which we get a lot of. I did consider moving to Florida keys area once but alligators passing me my tools and sharing the pool is just not my scene ! Think of us Brit enthusiasts and know how lucky you guys are, Cheers
ron
 
#42 ·
Forget the cars, when it comes to "most" Japanese people....UK "space" is Ginormous when you look at the tiny spaces whole families live in there, but you do have a point about where do they go to do their mods......
The daft thing here is that our small cars of the 1950-70's fitted in our 16 x 8 average garage but since then our cars have grown in size and because building land for housing has become less available and population growing, the modern starter home now has an even smaller garage in some cases, so, like yourself the folk store everything but a car in them.
The Spider fits like a glove in my garage, just very tight for space passenger side (opposite to yours). my work bench I made narrow, my tools and equipment, as you can see, are set out around me. My career as an Aircraft Engineer working in very confined space in the tiny hangers of Frigates and Destroyers taught me how to organise myself. Even our Aircraft Carriers space was very limited.
Your bikes and detector will easily store on the wall, stack your wheels, the crap goes the tip, the Stork patrols the garden. Antiques..tricky and upsetting the Wife...Dangerous ! :oops:
The Manx and Mini Must stay.....especially if the Mini is a Supercharged R53 Cooper S 2004-6.
Cheers
ron
 
#43 ·
Forget the cars, when it comes to "most" Japanese people....UK "space" is Ginormous when you look at the tiny spaces whole families live in there, but you do have a point about where do they go to do their mods......
The daft thing here is that our small cars of the 1950-70's fitted in our 16 x 8 average garage but since then our cars have grown in size and because building land for housing has become less available and population growing, the modern starter home now has an even smaller garage in some cases, so, like yourself the folk store everything but a car in them.
The Spider fits like a glove in my garage, just very tight for space passenger side (opposite to yours). my work bench I made narrow, my tools and equipment, as you can see, are set out around me. My career as an Aircraft Engineer working in very confined space in the tiny hangers of Frigates and Destroyers taught me how to organise myself. Even our Aircraft Carriers space was very limited.
Your bikes and detector will easily store on the wall, stack your wheels, the crap goes the tip, the Stork patrols the garden. Antiques..tricky and upsetting the Wife...Dangerous ! :oops:
The Manx and Mini Must stay.....especially if the Mini is a Supercharged R53 Cooper S 2004-6.
Cheers
ron
Honestly, I laugh at my neighbors. I'm actually the organized one in the neighbor hood, and I'm the only one that has my cars inside the garage! Everyone else parks theirs on the drive, because their garages are filled wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling with crap, and then they have even more crap at the "self-storage depot", another garage they drive to, and pay a monthly fee for! Insanity! If it's in storage, you don't need it, get rid of it!

Sadly, no... the MINI is the bog standard Hardtop model, but it's the 6speed manny, and it does the job, especially in the twisties. We have a dragon here, and once you learn to coexist with the beast, instead of constantly trying to slay it, she will teach you things about the fun of driving slow cars fast, instead of driving fast cars slow...

The Manx in my signature has every bit of 60 horse power, and with nothing more than 3rd gear and tire grip, will leave a poorly driven dragon slayer for dead, and a massive smile on my gob.
 
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#45 ·
Responding to a request about Spider battery update I was able to supply some valuable information as I had previously considered changing my own standard 39.4 Lb old style Top Up MONSTER..so I will record the info here so that you all know what's what..............Lifting my battery out was a back and fingertip breaking nightmare so once out I went in search of, and found two alternatives, then, before doing anything silly read 21st Century 124 info and did nothing. Dan the Man behind 21st Century completed his observations by advising against the change to a lightweight battery for a daily driver as the lightweight is really for racing, so does not hold a heavy charge so will need to be on charge when not in use. Limited like an electric car !
The BRAILLE B2015 AGM part number 147-B2015 weighs 15 Lb sizes L6.8" x W3.4" x H6.1" has cold crank 425, crank 574 & pulse crank 1067. 2 yr warranty). Has a Braille mounting kit (alloy) part 147-211. US market so import for UK.
The EXIDE EFB 027 (EL 600) weighs 34 LB , sizes similar to OEM battery with a better CCA rating of 640 A and a
3 yr warranty and is recommended 2020 as Best Buy replacement by most UK suppliers.Cheers
ron
 
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