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Hi Retiree......I have only just noticed this message (no email notice?), I haven't even considered headlights as I have only had the Spider out by day and summer evenings so far and see that it has running light in operation; however Thanks as that would make sense, Have you done the job and is it just a plug in set up from engine bay ? Cheers
ron
The OEM halogen bulbs are really weak and provide poor, dingy, yellow illumination. You can source LED's from Amazon, Ebay and the automotive lighting specialty sites. (Don't buy inexpensive bulbs. Remember. . . long after the price is forgotten the quality will remain.) The installation is quite easy I am told. Simpy remove the front fender liners and plug n' play. No ballast to mount. Alternatively, try a car stereo installation shop and they will likely do the installation for a reasonable price. I bought mine from a local store in Stuart, Florida (The Driver's Seat)(9-5:30 EST)(1 772-286-8400)(Talk to the owner, Chris Donley. He did the job). He guarantees his bulbs for 1 year. Since you do not drive regularly at night you can probably expect lifetime performance from these bulbs. The first set he sold me had "flickering issues" so he contacted the manufacturer/distributor and replaced them with another pair specifically designed for the Fiat 124 Spider/Mazda ND Miata. (guaranteed not to flicker. You may need a regulator too. Mention my experience (the guy with the Red Fiat 124 Spider) to him and he'll know what bulbs he needs to order for you. No issues, just perfect bright white light that illuminates the road. It cost me $285 U.S. Dollars for parts and labor) The Fiat visibility option is around $1,000 but the lights do rotate when you turn. I saved money and am really pleased with the product. I've not been flashed by oncoming vehicles either.

Happy motoring!
 

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Well unless you wish to use it only in summer , considering the weather of UK , I would absolutely suggest you to change the internal lights with led ( the original ones are an absolute joke) and the headlights if you want to improve a bit your night vision . The mod, considering what you have been doing on your car, is as easy for you as breathing . The parts to purchase and the tools needed are well covered in the forum . I am on my mobile otherwise I would post the link . Anyhow easy to find . Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Retiree& Claudio Cheers, off to find those posts and some kit, "MX Parts UK" will probably stock them anyway...
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #25
is the 2017 red color the same as the 2019 abarth red color?
Hi Potatochobit...Great Name by the way....The Spider is a 2018 model though I doubt the colours (British spelling) have changed in such a short time.....The paint code -on B post of Spider says A7V1.."Rosso Passione" is the colour of Red, which is a Solid rather than Metalic paint, (PR-895A-895B) it says in my download infomation.
Hope that helps you, Cheers
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The OEM halogen bulbs are really weak and provide poor, dingy, yellow illumination. You can source LED's from Amazon, Ebay and the automotive lighting specialty sites. (Don't buy inexpensive bulbs. Remember. . . long after the price is forgotten the quality will remain.) The installation is quite easy I am told. Simpy remove the front fender liners and plug n' play. No ballast to mount. Alternatively, try a car stereo installation shop and they will likely do the installation for a reasonable price. I bought mine from a local store in Stuart, Florida (The Driver's Seat)(9-5:30 EST)(1 772-286-8400)(Talk to the owner, Chris Donley. He did the job). He guarantees his bulbs for 1 year. Since you do not drive regularly at night you can probably expect lifetime performance from these bulbs. The first set he sold me had "flickering issues" so he contacted the manufacturer/distributor and replaced them with another pair specifically designed for the Fiat 124 Spider/Mazda ND Miata. (guaranteed not to flicker. You may need a regulator too. Mention my experience (the guy with the Red Fiat 124 Spider) to him and he'll know what bulbs he needs to order for you. No issues, just perfect bright white light that illuminates the road. It cost me $285 U.S. Dollars for parts and labor) The Fiat visibility option is around $1,000 but the lights do rotate when you turn. I saved money and am really pleased with the product. I've not been flashed by oncoming vehicles either.

Happy motoring!
Well.....I went away and studied /reviewed the lighting options with the following results......
Halogen OEM's.....Crap !! conclusion of Experts and fellow 124 Spider team mates alike.
Halogen HID...Much improved vision....on basic halogen gas/Tungston fitment by using Xenon gas, hotter and far brighter, use more energy, more expensive (I have replaced the basics in previous vehicles with these regularly).
LED.....Best buy, up to 10x more effective but expensive option and can cause CANBUS / Fault Error Codes through extra ballast electronics in some vehicles, however...recommended for all regular night time and long journeys.
As I only really do local and very little night driving these days I am going to ditch the basics and fit HID...
Fitting.....It seems you either jack, remove wheel and starting with arch liner centre pin and pop enough poppers to access rear of light unit or, turn wheels one way and access then one completion ditto the other side, HID straight swap unplug bulb harness-push in bulb base, press release and remove., LED refit must be harness pointing down (to align)and ballast tied off...CHECK it all works BEFORE refitting kit & wheel. No engine bay access.
Andrew at Light-Tec Automobile ebay UK advised that Fiats have caused most Canbus/Error code problems in his experience with LED supply and considering my casual fun driving style HID is best buy FOR ME. H11 & H15 bulbs.
I have a VW T-Roc SEL with LED everything for most daily driving routines and long distance stuff so agree that LED is brilliant in the right circumstances, Cheers and Thanks Retiree...I learnt something knew there.....
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well.....I went away and studied /reviewed the lighting options with the following results......
Halogen OEM's.....Crap !! conclusion of Experts and fellow 124 Spider team mates alike.
Halogen HID...Much improved vision....on basic halogen gas/Tungston fitment by using Xenon gas, hotter and far brighter, use more energy, more expensive (I have replaced the basics in previous vehicles with these regularly).
LED.....Best buy, up to 10x more effective but expensive option and can cause CANBUS / Fault Error Codes through extra ballast electronics in some vehicles, however...recommended for all regular night time and long journeys.
As I only really do local and very little night driving these days I am going to ditch the basics and fit HID...
Fitting.....It seems you either jack, remove wheel and starting with arch liner centre pin and pop enough poppers to access rear of light unit or, turn wheels one way and access then one completion ditto the other side, HID straight swap unplug bulb harness-push in bulb base, press release and remove., LED refit must be harness pointing down (to align)and ballast tied off...CHECK it all works BEFORE refitting kit & wheel. No engine bay access.
Andrew at Light-Tec Automobile ebay UK advised that Fiats have caused most Canbus/Error code problems in his experience with LED supply and considering my casual fun driving style HID is best buy FOR ME. H11 & H15 bulbs.
I have a VW T-Roc SEL with LED everything for most daily driving routines and long distance stuff so agree that LED is brilliant in the right circumstances, Cheers and Thanks Retiree...I learnt something knew there.....
ron
Hi again Folks (since my New Member post earlier) and Thank you for your time....I just wanted to share what I have done with my 124 Spider Classica since buying it in March this year as I noted lots of advice from Brian Goodwin of Good-Win Racing and plenty of useful stuff from you guys then acted upon it with some pretty good results, here goes............
Okay, following the test drive, purchase, watching Youtube test videos and reading up I decided on a plan of action starting with a Performance Air Filter...I fitted a Pipercross but could have easily have been K & N, I read up on the Plugs but kept originals as they do up to 25K whereas alternative NGK's do 20K and Brisk silver 15K with some concerns.... I fitted a GFB Diverter + valve to reduce turbo lag and it does by replacing the in / out plastic piston with a brass piston that gradually opens with pedal movement, I also checked out the Alfa 4c & Bosch coil packs but decided on a set of 500 Madness Red topped High Performance versions from the USA, same coil packs but cheaper and on offer (customs duty though). Next I considered my soft braking and went for EBC Yellow Stuff, easy fit and now I have brakes! Turning my attention to the weedy exhaust note and not liking the Abarth version "noise" I went for a Good-Win Dual Tip that has "That Burble" and only available via "Racing Beat Europe" Importer, took 20 minutes to fit and sounds divine.
Taking the Spider through my local "Biker Bends" I found that although I had gained HP from the Performance Air Filter (3-5 hp) and 2.5 inch bore exhaust (8-11 hp) and could now stop on an old sixpenny piece (ask Granddad) the Spider still seemed to float and wanted to join me later round the bends (understeer) so I decided on going to 17" alloys feeling that BBS Le Mans (18 lbs each) Diamond Blacks wearing Michelin Pilot Sport 4's (summer tyres) would look the Dogs, keeping my original alloys as winter gear; This upgrade to 205/45 17 on 7.5 forged alloys with rim protectors should be light and strong, give better inertia and grip and I should then be able to go round corners and bends.............meanwhile whilst I await delivery from "Wheelbasealloys" on order I still want to do some spirited driving within the limits of course, so.........
I ordered a set of "Eibach" Pro-Fit coils from TMC Motorsport (NI), again on offer, reports here and from Brian Goodwin was that they are "The Business", they arrived last week and it took me about 1.5 hours per corner to exchange for OEM coils. The Eibach's have a softened top section and stiffer lower section so gradually soak up movement, they lower the front by 0-08" & rear by 1" and even without the new alloys yet my 16" OEM's are gripping whilst my turn in is superb...
Turning to the "Italian styling".....Sports cars should have leather seats, its the law! so, I ordered and had swapped out the original cloth seats for a pair of Real Black Leather with Red stitching 124 Spider seats ordered from original supplier in Malasia at a great price. I also visited ebay for a set of Real Leather with red stitching stick & handbrake gaiters, fitting in an Abarth Heated Seat Switch from a scrapyard (plugs straight in) whilst I had the center panels out.
Having "Abarthised" my Spider (with your help) I decided to de badge front and rear and re badge "Abarth" so.....I had to get to the badges....
Rear badge was simple, held in place by a bit of sticky pad and two small flexible plastic lips holding the lugs in position, using a dashboard and trim plastic spatula I gently eased up then pulled and the badge popped out, no mess. The front badge.......You cannot gain entry through grill....MGB simple, MX5 easy, 124 Spider is not accessible as there are no screws, so, I lifted bonnet and drilled out carefully the two small rivets in front plastic panel ahead of bonnet mechanism, removed the two plastic pop up plugs one either side engine side of mechanism and slid out that panel revealing another plastic panel which I cut two slots down about 4" apart then bent that panel back,so was able to access the nut that holds the bonnet badge in place. Using a 10mm ratchet cum open ended angled spanner (snap on) with a length of string attached should you drop it! I was able to ratchet the nut loose with my left medium sized hand whilst using the flat of my medium sized right hand to place the ratchet spanner over the nut and hold it there, it was not too tight. Using a long flat ended screwdriver with my left hand once spanner was withdrawn I removed the nut with the fingers of my right hand then pressed down on the nut with flat of screwdriver as I carefully withdrew hand and nut, as if you drop that nut remember to say goodbye as it goes into a void !!
I acquired Abarth front and rear badges from a scrapyard and a pair of "Abarth & Co" with Scorpion and shield original 1949 design quality cover badges, fitted the front Abarth badge and it looked terrible so then refitted front Fiat badge and applied the "Abarth & Co" badge front and rear and they look cool....I replaced the cover panel in engine bay and popped in the two poppers so no sign of entry there Officer !
I found a 124 Spider 3 cm stick on badge at £1.99 and a turbo badge at 99p on ebay and applied them front grill and rear passenger side boot lip and the Spider not only looks great on its lowered springs (that did not need re alignment), it goes well, handles and brakes and leaves many rubberneckers confused as they admire but cannot quite identify what vehicle they are following....
Thank you for your time in reading my rantings which I hope can assist or entertain you, the costs have been £14900.00 for the Spider with a years tax and full tank of Premium unleaded, around £1250.00 for all the mods, fitted by myself except seats which Auto Trim, Ivybridge, Devon kindly did for a great price. The BBS Le Mans alloys and Michelins will be some £3000.00 when they arrive but actually the OEM 16" alloys looking back would have and do do the job, just 17" does it better. So whilst the "Abarth" is the top spec 124 Spider, in my opinion.....Fiat could have produced my Classica with above mods at a couple of thousand pounds more and had a fantastic little true sports car rather than ditching it after only two years, oh, and the Sat Nav.......I bought an SD card off ebay removed the small black plastic oblong cap in lower center dashboard panel, slipped it in and got Sat Nav. Now, if only we could get Brexit done........Cheers
Karl Abarth started his own company in 1949 making exhaust systems and modding basic Fiats to make them GO!, his original logo copy is what I acquired for my Classica to mark the spirit of engineering and visual improvement used by him and not to Copy the modern Abarth. 1949 Abarth & Co logo below....

Abarth badge.png
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well.....I went away and studied /reviewed the lighting options with the following results......
Halogen OEM's.....Crap !! conclusion of Experts and fellow 124 Spider team mates alike.
Halogen HID...Much improved vision....on basic halogen gas/Tungston fitment by using Xenon gas, hotter and far brighter, use more energy, more expensive (I have replaced the basics in previous vehicles with these regularly).
LED.....Best buy, up to 10x more effective but expensive option and can cause CANBUS / Fault Error Codes through extra ballast electronics in some vehicles, however...recommended for all regular night time and long journeys.
As I only really do local and very little night driving these days I am going to ditch the basics and fit HID...
Fitting.....It seems you either jack, remove wheel and starting with arch liner centre pin and pop enough poppers to access rear of light unit or, turn wheels one way and access then one completion ditto the other side, HID straight swap unplug bulb harness-push in bulb base, press release and remove., LED refit must be harness pointing down (to align)and ballast tied off...CHECK it all works BEFORE refitting kit & wheel. No engine bay access.
Andrew at Light-Tec Automobile ebay UK advised that Fiats have caused most Canbus/Error code problems in his experience with LED supply and considering my casual fun driving style HID is best buy FOR ME. H11 & H15 bulbs.
I have a VW T-Roc SEL with LED everything for most daily driving routines and long distance stuff so agree that LED is brilliant in the right circumstances, Cheers and Thanks Retiree...I learnt something knew there.....
ron
UPDATE from Andrew at Light-tec.....They have discussed and re thought their advice as follows....HID no longer their recommendation for my style of usage, they say H4-100w HID white Xenon halogen 12v plasma 5000-6000k is better suited and four bulbs only £11.95 total free post...will do for me, Cheers
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #29
UPDATE from Andrew at Light-tec.....They have discussed and re thought their advice as follows....HID no longer their recommendation for my style of usage, they say H11 & H15 white Xenon halogen 12v (main & halo) are better suited and... four bulbs only £11.95 total free post...will do for me, Cheers
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The OEM halogen bulbs are really weak and provide poor, dingy, yellow illumination. You can source LED's from Amazon, Ebay and the automotive lighting specialty sites. (Don't buy inexpensive bulbs. Remember. . . long after the price is forgotten the quality will remain.) The installation is quite easy I am told. Simpy remove the front fender liners and plug n' play. No ballast to mount. Alternatively, try a car stereo installation shop and they will likely do the installation for a reasonable price. I bought mine from a local store in Stuart, Florida (The Driver's Seat)(9-5:30 EST)(1 772-286-8400)(Talk to the owner, Chris Donley. He did the job). He guarantees his bulbs for 1 year. Since you do not drive regularly at night you can probably expect lifetime performance from these bulbs. The first set he sold me had "flickering issues" so he contacted the manufacturer/distributor and replaced them with another pair specifically designed for the Fiat 124 Spider/Mazda ND Miata. (guaranteed not to flicker. You may need a regulator too. Mention my experience (the guy with the Red Fiat 124 Spider) to him and he'll know what bulbs he needs to order for you. No issues, just perfect bright white light that illuminates the road. It cost me $285 U.S. Dollars for parts and labor) The Fiat visibility option is around $1,000 but the lights do rotate when you turn. I saved money and am really pleased with the product. I've not been flashed by oncoming vehicles either.

Happy motoring!
Hi Retiree.....Boy, have you started something here matey........
Following your suggestion re LED lighting pros and cons I started looking as I said I would "Thread here", I was surprised to see that whilst everyone chats about which bulb or type I found next to nothing on the fitting, though plenty of its easy.........so, I decided to order up and see what happened....some details below but I have ended up starting a new thread in Lighting under HELP..............
as so far...I have not found a way to get High beam bulb out as I can't find a tab....take a look at my help thread, just changing out to Low Beam H11 has made a Great difference so Thanks for the heads up ;)

Cheers
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hi Retiree.....Boy, have you started something here matey........
Following your suggestion re LED lighting pros and cons I started looking as I said I would "Thread here", I was surprised to see that whilst everyone chats about which bulb or type I found next to nothing on the fitting, though plenty of its easy.........so, I decided to order up and see what happened....some details below but I have ended up starting a new thread in Lighting under HELP..............
as so far...I have not found a way to get High beam bulb out as I can't find a tab....take a look at my help thread, just changing out to Low Beam H11 has made a Great difference so Thanks for the heads up ;)

Cheers
ron
Following on from the avenue Retiree sent me down for which I am grateful as it took me on a new journey and discovery about SWAPPING OUT LOW & HIG beam headlight bulbs, should you fancy a look it's under
Electronics, Audio and Lighting forum....headed, HELP ! I want to update lighting...........and together we found the easiest way to access and locate bulb units Low H11 & High H15.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Been reading a couple of threads re preparing your Spider for winter storage........I posted my thoughts based on previous long history of owning a fun sports car and doing just that and as this thread has become a bit of a car diary.....I thought that I would just post a few details here for anyone interested.....Having first checked all systems including a full tank so no water/vapor ingress, battery charged fully and tyres inflated correctly, car washed, polished and covered I run the engine every two weeks or so to keep it all ticking over and move the wheels back and forth to avoid flat spotting. I check the battery charge or put it on my Bike/ Car trickle charger mid winter with never an issue when bringing it back into service Springtime. I have read some disturbing issues on this forum concerning the Multi Air engine "if left long term" so just a thought, eh.
Whilst on the subject of winter storage A/C (Air Con)....since having cars fitted with A/C I have thought about the long term non use during winter storage and effect on the systems seals.....they need lubrication otherwise they dry out causing leaks and/or damage so....I run my A/C a couple of times during winter (and summer in the UK weather) to keep it all working well, to check A/C is working......Engine running A/C off the center of the Compressor should be still then when you switch on A/C it should start spinning, Cheers ;)
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well I said earlier that this thread was turning into a diary, so here's an update for anyone looking who may be interested in fitting BBS Le Mans alloys.....I ordered 2nd September last from "Wheelbasealloys" Manchester area UK, though having researched since it seems that all UK supplier / outlets are experiencing the same delays...You can obtain some BBS alloys but a set of forged Le Mans..I was told 3 to 4 months and having just checked in with my supplier, no date as yet. I did contact BBS Germany a while back who said that I could have ordered direct with BBS Japan. The position now of course is that to cancel and go direct would mean a return to the back of the queue, whereas...to stay in line HOW LONG FOR ? I have considered OZ wheels and Ronals but I want BBS and forged as they are light (17" 18 lbs), strong and classic. The Spider is a "Keeper", I still love it, love the attention it receives as it is so rare in the UK, working on it as it is accessible and owning it is my 1960's sports car experiences without the breakdowns and leaks. Seasons Greetings One and All, Cheers.....🎅
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Well here we are in 2020, sorted out my tools, prepared spare wheel & tyre ready to be mounted together tomorrow and serviced the wife's Honda jazz. So what did i do New years eve.........using a pair of tweezers removed the SD Sat Nav card from that daft slot, went online to Map Update Toolbox in the 124 Spider Infotainment System, signed up, logged in, downloaded my first of three download map updates and installed; The whole process took less than one hour and taking the Spider on an early New Year's day Spirited cruise / drive i am happy to report...It Worked !
Best £28 spent in buying that 124 Spider Sat Nav card off ebay back along.
DON'T buy the Mazda version, it will not work on Fiat.. Cheers
ron
 

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I fitted a GFB Diverter + valve to reduce turbo lag and it does by replacing the in / out plastic piston with a brass piston that gradually opens with pedal movement
Hi Ron,

Read the above with real interest particularly the bit regrading the GFB Diverter + Valve as the lag/throttle response on my 124 Anniversary is the worst I've experienced since I owned a Renault GT Turbo back in the early 90s. I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with.
1. Do you know what improvement the GFB Diverter mod gives in isolation to the other mods you've done.
2. Is this only available from Good - win in the US and if so what's the best way to contact them to order etc.
3. I'm planning a remap via Celtic Tuning's Emotion 2 that requires self installation and wondered whether the installation and operation of the GFB would be completely isolated/independent from the remap or would it conflict ( Apologies although I'm reasonably clued up with auto engineering I'm not good with the operation of the GFB and the OE equipment it will replace)

Lastly have you come across any uprated clutch that is available for our 124's ( something like Sach's Organic Performance clutch would be ideal as I want the feel of the clutch to remain OE ) I understand that the original clutch fitted to the Fiat 124 is identical to the Abarth so should be ok asthe Celtic Remap pushes Power up to 170 BHP same as the Abarth, however it gives 204lbs/ft Torque which is around 20 more.

Many Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hi Ron,

Read the above with real interest particularly the bit regrading the GFB Diverter + Valve as the lag/throttle response on my 124 Anniversary is the worst I've experienced since I owned a Renault GT Turbo back in the early 90s. I have a couple of questions I hope you can help me with.
1. Do you know what improvement the GFB Diverter mod gives in isolation to the other mods you've done.
2. Is this only available from Good - win in the US and if so what's the best way to contact them to order etc.
3. I'm planning a remap via Celtic Tuning's Emotion 2 that requires self installation and wondered whether the installation and operation of the GFB would be completely isolated/independent from the remap or would it conflict ( Apologies although I'm reasonably clued up with auto engineering I'm not good with the operation of the GFB and the OE equipment it will replace)

Lastly have you come across any uprated clutch that is available for our 124's ( something like Sach's Organic Performance clutch would be ideal as I want the feel of the clutch to remain OE ) I understand that the original clutch fitted to the Fiat 124 is identical to the Abarth so should be ok asthe Celtic Remap pushes Power up to 170 BHP same as the Abarth, however it gives 204lbs/ft Torque which is around 20 more.

Many Thanks
Hi napastar.....Glad to point you in the right direction....The GFB DV+ Performance Diverter Valve was fitted in conjunction with my Performance Coil Packs, Air Filter and Good-Win Dual Tip exhaust, however, I read up on it first "Brian Goodwin" saying, "If there is only one mod you should do it's the Go Fast Bits DV+ as it negates the Turbo lag. I removed the original with "plastic" piston replacing carefully with new "brass" piston assembly and instead of the plastic piston just being in or out (so lag as throttle response catches up) the brass piston moves gradually with your foot pedal pressure causes by bigger and better DV+ spring so no noticeble lag.
I paid £112 approx and ordered from Advanced Automotive Performance of Bristol UK...01179 672314 [email protected] The item is made in Australia [email protected]

Tuning....Hmmm I have reservations on that one. First of all my own experience is that I went along to a Tuning center in Bristol mid 1990's with some 15 or so XR3i Escort Cabrio's and one RS model, most upgraded, mine standard..new performance plugs, new air & filter, oil, the RS model had his leads blown off, the modded cars gave all sorts of results and mine was best ! So...not that convinced, but I know that the experts at "Quantum Tuning" branches everywhere say that the vehicle should have UNDER 69000 miles approx, they do a tune at £230 ish and can put back to original if you are unhappy, feedback Very Good. I'll just add that you will lower your engines lifespan most likely, so unless you want to race, don't overdo it. Yes the "Abarth" is 170hp same engine but look for a balance.
Clutch assembley & FLYWHEEL......I looked at the threads and reviews but decided not for me (yet), but i see the benefits of a lighter flywheel & stronger clutch assembley for track off the grid speed, better throttle response faster acceleration, less stress on Crankshaft & Bearings, Mazda NC used a Fidanza alluminium Flywheel from Good-Win Racing in the USA apparently but import duties at 20% is difficult but "Racing Beat Europe" (Clive Haynsford is your man) are the only UK licenced importer Brian Goodwin uses,
For UK vehicles I understand that ACT clutch assembley with pressure plates comes with all the kit and is available from "Balance Motorsport UK" or " VIPmotorsport". I would read reviews of both company's, the product offered and check out these threads for advice / guidance. but it is a job that I would carry out if I had a purpose.
Good Luck with your 2020 updates and "Look out for those Special Deals / Vouchers, Cheers
ron
 

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Thanks Ron . I'll get on to Advanced Automotive Performance tomorrow and get the Diverter valve ordered. I have remapped a couple of cars in the past with mixed outcomes. Both have delivered the extra performance promised but in the case of the BMW 330d coupe it did overwhelm the clutch after a few months! ( mind you it was LOL fast with over 300 BHP and 430lbs/Ft ) I've chosen Celtic Tuning as I've used them to Remap a Z4 and their self tune option via the OBD will allow me to revert to standard during the winter. Also the increases in power and most importantly torque, seem sensible by matching the Abarth for power and slightly more for torque so hopefully will not be too much for the OE clutch. I'm only looking at the clutch as a back up plan in case the OE clutch can't cope as I'll be keeping the 124 long term. I love the car and its looks and unlike the Germanic Z4, It seems to attract nothing but admiring looks and genuine positive interest.

I assume a remap will have no impact on the operation of the new Diverter Valve

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I wrote earlier that to complete my "Brexit Mods" I had ordered a set of 17" BBS Le Mans in Diamond Black 02/09/19 with a 3-4 month delivery schedule, well.......5 Months on !! and no sign, so I contacted the proposed supplier who informed me that my wheels are forged and on board a container ship heading for Germany ! ? arriving week 7 (11/17th February 2020) so once unloaded and sorted at BBS HQ Germany they then get freighted to BBS HQ UK and on to my supplier and finally, around 6 months after ordering to me. Not On !
Breach of Contract of Consumer Rights Act UK 2015 apply's so Cancellation, Full Refund and Confirmation due.
Such a shame after all this time but a warning to all ensure a written contract with agreed delivery date in place....
Cheers
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I'm sorry Brexit, is that actually a garage, or did you save an old Lesney Superfast box from childhood to store your Spider in? Good god man, I couldn't fit in there crawling, on my knees...
Hiya Apex.....This is the UK where standard garages are about 16 x 8 ft (if you are lucky), a few people have double garages to squeeze two cars in and many or course have none. I have watched many a youtube video of you guys driving in and out of your Aircraft hanger size garages and YES "I would Love one of those" !
As for working on the Spider...another inch or two passenger side and I would have been snookered ! I have that land opposite the bungalow and have rebuilt a Land Rover 90 over there plus stored two Classic vehicles for a couple of years until I became too concerned about the weathers effect on them. I did apply to the Planning office for a double length garage on that land (about 100 ft x 14 ft) but was turned down so, whilst I am fit and agile enough I work in the garage when vehicle up on stands for any length of time and outdoors usually apart from in heavy rain...which we get a lot of. I did consider moving to Florida keys area once but alligators passing me my tools and sharing the pool is just not my scene ! Think of us Brit enthusiasts and know how lucky you guys are, Cheers
ron
 
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