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I'm not mechanically inclined, but I've had a previous VW tuned with APR tuning (they dont tune 124s). The process was simple, it was very clear online what Stage 1, 2, etc were. And I just took it to a local shop, they gave me basically a "menu" and walked me through stage 1 (ecu tune), stage 2 (air intake, fuel pump and different ecu tune), and what would have been stage 3, which I didnt do. Then I had them do all the work, everyone was happy.

I've read lots of threads here, and I've been to the EC website, but I have to admit it seems like a potpourri of gadgets and claims.

Basically, I want to do a few performance improvements to a 124 that I plan to purchase, but I do NOT want the car exhaust to sound any louder. I take it this means Phase 3 in EC-speak (turbo, intake and tune?), but there are just so many options for turbos, tuning kits, intakes, etc on the website.

There are no certified EC shops near me (Chicago area), so I'd need to be the one giving guidance to a trusted shop to do the work for me.

But I'm at a loss for exactly what the blessed phases are, and what combinations of kit and ECU tunes are blessed/used in anger.

Not a knock on EC as it seems they are the most respected tuner supplier, but its awfully hard to put together a picture of where I want to get to, and what those pieces/steps are.

Could anyone dumb this down for me?

ps if anyone wants to recommend a Chicago/Milwaukee area shop they trust to work on 124s, I am all ears!
 

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First you determine the peak horsepower you want divided by the average flying speed of an unladen European swallow..

Sorry, had to go there.

Down to business.

The biggest impediment to these cars making power is back-pressure on the exhaust side. Fiat put a really restrictive exhaust on these cars. Back pressure negatively effects the efficiency of the turbo. This problem is addressed by replacing the factory catalytic converter with a free flow sport cat, enlarging the size of the exhaust pipes and eliminating or replacing restrictive factory mufflers.

So if you are adamant on not changing the exhaust then the biggest power gains are not available just stick with the SILA tuning module whcih is very inexpensive and will give a nice power boost in the 20% range. If you think you will make serious upgrades in the future go with a Phase 1 tune as it can be modified.

In addition to a tune here is a menu of items you can optionally add to the tune. I'm going to stick to bolt-ons for increasing the power because if you don't want to change the exhaust you probably don't want to do an engine tear down to replace pistons and rods with forged go fast bits. And at the risk of being repetitive - without exhaust mods you are giving up power, but hey, your choice.

Bolt on mods that will add real performance (proven - not butt dyno opinion) in ascending cost are:
  1. turbo blanket (retained turbo heat = more horsepower)
  2. Go Fast DV diverter valve (replaces leaky factory unit for better response)
  3. upgraded coils and better plugs (improved spark efficiency and definitely recommended for use with a tune)
  4. upgraded inter cooler (factory inter-cooler is restrictive just like the factory exhaust but changing it won't make the car louder)
  5. bigger turbo - yes, you can upgrade to a larger turbo for power gains without upgrading the exhaust but you will be leaving a lot of power on the table if you leave the exhaust stock.
1-4 will work fine with a stage 1 tune or the SILA tuning module.
5 will work better with a stage 2 tune
Stage 3 tune isn't for you as it requires upgraded coils and plugs, sports cat, upgraded intercooler and free-flow exhaust

There are other parts you will see advertised that are simply better built or offer minimal HP return such as
  1. Intake systems (no real need to upgrade the factory intake until you hit 200+ HP)
  2. Waste gate actuators (just better quality - no HP gains)
  3. Throttle body spacers (only reason you want one it to give you a place to mount a boost gauge or water/meth injection)
  4. Lightweight crank pulley (so much work to replace for so little gain)
  5. Electronic throttle do-dads (makes the car feel more responsive - no actual HP gains)
Of course there is also weight reduction, stock wheels for example are notoriously heavy. Replacing them with lighter wheels will improve acceleration and handling.

That's about as simple as I can make it.

Oh, and don't forget the swallow has to be unladen...
 

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I'm not mechanically inclined, but I've had a previous VW tuned with APR tuning (they dont tune 124s). The process was simple, it was very clear online what Stage 1, 2, etc were. And I just took it to a local shop, they gave me basically a "menu" and walked me through stage 1 (ecu tune), stage 2 (air intake, fuel pump and different ecu tune), and what would have been stage 3, which I didnt do. Then I had them do all the work, everyone was happy.

I've read lots of threads here, and I've been to the EC website, but I have to admit it seems like a potpourri of gadgets and claims.

Basically, I want to do a few performance improvements to a 124 that I plan to purchase, but I do NOT want the car exhaust to sound any louder. I take it this means Phase 3 in EC-speak (turbo, intake and tune?), but there are just so many options for turbos, tuning kits, intakes, etc on the website.

There are no certified EC shops near me (Chicago area), so I'd need to be the one giving guidance to a trusted shop to do the work for me.

But I'm at a loss for exactly what the blessed phases are, and what combinations of kit and ECU tunes are blessed/used in anger.

Not a knock on EC as it seems they are the most respected tuner supplier, but its awfully hard to put together a picture of where I want to get to, and what those pieces/steps are.

Could anyone dumb this down for me?

ps if anyone wants to recommend a Chicago/Milwaukee area shop they trust to work on 124s, I am all ears!
The information is right on EC’s site. Note that you can do Phase 3 with the stock exhaust system, like @alltimesaresoon has done, if you want to go with a turbo upgrade but keep the exhaust stock.

That said, the biggest bang for your buck is a tune, so if you want to keep things simple, get EC’s Phase 1 tune and call it a day. You can install the tune yourself, you won’t need any parts, so you won’t need a shop. I think the hardest thing you will have is finding a good shop to work on your car that is familiar with Fiats. Many of us here have done our own work.


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I am going to make them come up with a Phase 5! 91 w/water methanol and a 50 shot of N2O!

All in!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wow, many thanks to TX_Bandit and sharkcohen!

I stand by my claim that its not easy to figure out, but given the guidance here and lots of clicking around the website, I think I've got a handle on most of it.

So I'll at least paste my cheat sheet below in case it helps someone else. I cant say I'm 100% confident it is correct, but is at least what I'm thinking.

First some direct responses:

So if you are adamant on not changing the exhaust then the biggest power gains are not available just stick with the SILA tuning module whcih is very inexpensive and will give a nice power boost in the 20% range.
I cant figure out what "SILA tuning module" is on the website. I suspect its one of the replacement ECU's they list (eg Direct tuning/clone) ??

The information is right on EC’s site. Note that you can do Phase 3 with the stock exhaust system, like @alltimesaresoon has done, if you want to go with a turbo upgrade but keep the exhaust stock.

That said, the biggest bang for your buck is a tune, so if you want to keep things simple, get EC’s Phase 1 tune and call it a day. You can install the tune yourself, you won’t need any parts, so you won’t need a shop. I think the hardest thing you will have is finding a good shop to work on your car that is familiar with Fiats. Many of us here have done our own work.

Thanks, that URL (EURO+DRIVE TUNE REQUIREMENTS - EUROCOMPULSION) really helped direct me to click on various items in the shop. Ideally the image of the phases and what they contain would be inline text with links to the products that could be used. And really that should be the landing page for your car, so you start with that Phase listing and can click on the required and recommended parts.

Here is my summary. Of course some of this stuff is required, and some is recommended, and is specific to how I'd look at the upgrades. In USD where applicable:

Phase 1: (ECU Tune only, but if you buy a package you'll get some ignition stuff and a replacement for the stock diverter valve which is "weak")
$1290 : Euro+ Drive Phase 1 Power package (EURO+DRIVE® PHASE 1 POWER PACKAGE (FIAT 124 SPIDER/ABARTH) - EUROCOMPULSION) this contains the following
......$800 Euro+ Drive Tuning System
......$51 NGK Plugs
......$285 Alfa coil packs
......$140 GFB DV+

(Note that if you purchase the items individually, it actually comes out cheaper than the package price !?)

Phase 2: Cold air intake system, wastegate, and associated ECU tune
$800 : Front mount intercooler (EUROCOMPULSION FRONT MOUNT INTER-COOLER KIT (FIAT 124 SPIDER / ABARTH) - EUROCOMPULSION)
$345 : V4 Intake (not sure if V4 or V2 is required, or either) (EUROCOMPULSION® FIAT 124 SPIDER/ABARTH V4 AIR INDUCTION KIT - EUROCOMPULSION)
$190 : Wastegate actuator (there seem to be 2 different kinds, but stick to pricier one) (FORGE MOTORSPORT WASTE-GATE ACTUATOR - EUROCOMPULSION)

Phase 3: Bigger turbo and associated ECU tune
$1450 : 1446+ turbo upgrade (EUROCOMPULSION® 1446+ BIG TURBO UPGRADE - EUROCOMPULSION)

Of course lots of other stuff can be added, notably exhaust stuff which seems to make a large difference, but I just want to stay quiet!

So my costs for each phase:
1: $1,290
2: $1,335
3: $1,450 (or cheaper if I do the exchange)

I'd probably start with just Phase 1 and see how I feel. But I've been down this road before and know that you can never have enough. And in full disclosure, my first mod will be the seat lowering rails so I can actually fit in the car :)

Thanks for the help. I'm hoping to buy the car later this week.
 

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If you are going to get the Phase 1 tune, save some money and don't bother with anything else, except maybe the DV+. Spark plugs and coil packs do nothing for power.

Exhaust can be the most expensive item, and really produces the least gains, except for sound. It's really not needed.

There's more to going fast in this kind of car than just power. I'd really recommend that you drive it for a couple of months to see what you like and what you would want to improve before you buy anything. You might decide the power is good and want to do suspension upgrades, instead.

@Chainringtattoo
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you are going to get the Phase 1 tune, save some money and don't bother with anything else, except maybe the DV+. Spark plugs and coil packs do nothing for power.

Exhaust can be the most expensive item, and really produces the least gains, except for sound. It's really not needed.

There's more to going fast in this kind of car than just power. I'd really recommend that you drive it for a couple of months to see what you like and what you would want to improve before you buy anything. You might decide the power is good and want to do suspension upgrades, instead.

@Chainringtattoo
Thanks sharkcohen. Yes I will indeed break in the car (with new lower seat rails) and see how I feel.

Very interested and glad to hear you say the exhaust produces the least gains. That's opposite of what I gleaned from a couple dyno charts, and what I interpreted TX_Bandit to say. But regardless, the sound (absence of it) is important to me, regardless of power gain.

Could I ask you to help me understand the ECU tuning. I'll jot down my understanding. There seem to be 5 options on the website:
  • Euro+Drive Tuning system (handheld ODB port): $800 : I have to request and download maps from EC and upload them to my car to the existing ECU. And seems if I go to Phase 1, 2, 3 and beyond, I can keep using this same unit. Factory ECU stays in place.
  • Euro+Drive ECU Clone: $1,500 : EC sends me a new ECU with a phase 1 tune that I slap into my car. I keep the original ECU in case I want to put back to stock, eg taking to FIAT service. If I want to go to phase 2 or beyond, I have to shell out some more cash.
  • Euro+Drive ECU Direct: $800 : I remove my factory ECU, ship it to EC, they upload the tune (presumably using the $800 handheld tuner I could have bought), they ship back and I install. I accomplish same thing as owning the handheld system, except if I want to go to phase 2 and beyond, I have to shell out cash. Also, cant readily revert to stock.
  • Booster Basic ECU: $450 but with bluetooth and USB is $575 : piggyback unit, presumably this means it attaches to the factory ECU to "trick" it into making more boost, etc. I can glean the bluetooth allows switching between stock and tuned, but not sure what the USB cable does.
  • Booster Pro ECU: $650 but with bluetooth and USB is $775 : piggyback unit like the Basic one above, but seems only necessary for phase 4+ ?
I havent included any notes on whether the dealer/service department can determine if the car is / has ever been tuned. All of these seem to produce the same Phase 1 gains, if I am not mistaken.

Is all of that correct? It would seem the ODB port tuner is the most flexible. However I'd be tempted to just do the $1,500 ECU clone so I can basically "undo" everything at ease. How often do new maps come out that I'd want to update the tuned ECU? That would make me want to just get the handheld tuner.

One last general question on suspension. Are you suggesting that one might want to firm up the Abarth suspension? I test drove an Abarth (with record exhaust) and a Lusso, and I thought the Abarth suspension was already quite firm, but I might have been distracted by the exhaust noise! It's one of the remaining things I need to figure out between Abarth vs Lusso when I test drive again.

Many thanks again. I'm sorry to ask basic questions, but have to think I'm not the only person that struggles to understand all of the options.
 

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Thanks sharkcohen. Yes I will indeed break in the car (with new lower seat rails) and see how I feel.

Very interested and glad to hear you say the exhaust produces the least gains. That's opposite of what I gleaned from a couple dyno charts, and what I interpreted TX_Bandit to say. But regardless, the sound (absence of it) is important to me, regardless of power gain.

Could I ask you to help me understand the ECU tuning. I'll jot down my understanding. There seem to be 5 options on the website:
  • Euro+Drive Tuning system (handheld ODB port): $800 : I have to request and download maps from EC and upload them to my car to the existing ECU. And seems if I go to Phase 1, 2, 3 and beyond, I can keep using this same unit. Factory ECU stays in place.
  • Euro+Drive ECU Clone: $1,500 : EC sends me a new ECU with a phase 1 tune that I slap into my car. I keep the original ECU in case I want to put back to stock, eg taking to FIAT service. If I want to go to phase 2 or beyond, I have to shell out some more cash.
  • Euro+Drive ECU Direct: $800 : I remove my factory ECU, ship it to EC, they upload the tune (presumably using the $800 handheld tuner I could have bought), they ship back and I install. I accomplish same thing as owning the handheld system, except if I want to go to phase 2 and beyond, I have to shell out cash. Also, cant readily revert to stock.
  • Booster Basic ECU: $450 but with bluetooth and USB is $575 : piggyback unit, presumably this means it attaches to the factory ECU to "trick" it into making more boost, etc. I can glean the bluetooth allows switching between stock and tuned, but not sure what the USB cable does.
  • Booster Pro ECU: $650 but with bluetooth and USB is $775 : piggyback unit like the Basic one above, but seems only necessary for phase 4+ ?
I havent included any notes on whether the dealer/service department can determine if the car is / has ever been tuned. All of these seem to produce the same Phase 1 gains, if I am not mistaken.

Is all of that correct? It would seem the ODB port tuner is the most flexible. However I'd be tempted to just do the $1,500 ECU clone so I can basically "undo" everything at ease. How often do new maps come out that I'd want to update the tuned ECU? That would make me want to just get the handheld tuner.

One last general question on suspension. Are you suggesting that one might want to firm up the Abarth suspension? I test drove an Abarth (with record exhaust) and a Lusso, and I thought the Abarth suspension was already quite firm, but I might have been distracted by the exhaust noise! It's one of the remaining things I need to figure out between Abarth vs Lusso when I test drive again.

Many thanks again. I'm sorry to ask basic questions, but have to think I'm not the only person that struggles to understand all of the options.
You can undo anything with the handheld. I have Phase 2 with stock exhaust, well swapped to the Record Monza for the noise, but still stock. I have the stock spark plugs. Also notice that Phase 2 ONLY requires the intake and intercooler, and all else recommended. The GFD DV+ I changed based on what was said here, and I am quite sure it is much better than stock, but I can't tell much if any difference in normal driving. I can just about say the same for the coil packs. And, to quote you, I'd probably start with just Phase 1 and see how I feel. But I've been down this road before and know that you can never have enough. Phase 2 makes P1 feel lame in all respects, my Abarth has P1 in the normal mode and P2 in the sports mode, and it is only in normal mode when the car starts. I am totally jealous of Sharkcohen and others with P3. Those cars rock I am sure. I would make plans for at least P2 down the road, lol.
 

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You can undo anything with the handheld. I have Phase 2 with stock exhaust, well swapped to the Record Monza for the noise, but still stock. I have the stock spark plugs. Also notice that Phase 2 ONLY requires the intake and intercooler, and all else recommended. The GFD DV+ I changed based on what was said here, and I am quite sure it is much better than stock, but I can't tell much if any difference in normal driving. I can just about say the same for the coil packs. And, to quote you, I'd probably start with just Phase 1 and see how I feel. But I've been down this road before and know that you can never have enough. Phase 2 makes P1 feel lame in all respects, my Abarth has P1 in the normal mode and P2 in the sports mode, and it is only in normal mode when the car starts. I am totally jealous of Sharkcohen and others with P3. Those cars rock I am sure. I would make plans for at least P2 down the road, lol.
Thanks, thats good intel. I'm thinking phase 2 would be as far as I get, perhaps phase 3. I suppose I'm curious why I'd get the handheld over the Booster Basic ECU? If I read it right, that (Booster Basic) will allow me to also change maps up to Phase 3. But I suppose I could be wrong. How is the handheld different from the Booster Basic tuner? If anything, using bluetooth (with Booster Basic) sounds more readily accessible on the fly to change maps. Not that I'd be doing it often.
 

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Thanks, thats good intel. I'm thinking phase 2 would be as far as I get, perhaps phase 3. I suppose I'm curious why I'd get the handheld over the Booster Basic ECU? If I read it right, that (Booster Basic) will allow me to also change maps up to Phase 3. But I suppose I could be wrong. How is the handheld different from the Booster Basic tuner? If anything, using bluetooth (with Booster Basic) sounds more readily accessible on the fly to change maps. Not that I'd be doing it often.
I don't know anything about the booster basic ECU. The handheld will hold all of your tunes, as well as stock, so you can switch at your hearts content, but why? I only have it handy in case I go the the dealer for whatever, just in case they flash the ECU and mess up the tunes. Once out of warranty I imagine I will get the P3 tune. The stock car is very slow, a little better with P1 and really comes alive with P2. P3 has got to be an animal. Did I mention I was jealous of Shark and others here with P3? lol
 

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I was not aware that the E+D Lite Piggyback is now gone. I guess the Vaitrix boxes are the replacement. I will eventually get around to learning the AirForce software once I get everything back together and can power it up again. I have the Pro on top of the handheld flash to control the methanol injection and make more tweaks on my own based on current conditions.
 

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I don't know anything about the booster basic ECU. The handheld will hold all of your tunes, as well as stock, so you can switch at your hearts content, but why? I only have it handy in case I go the the dealer for whatever, just in case they flash the ECU and mess up the tunes. Once out of warranty I imagine I will get the P3 tune. The stock car is very slow, a little better with P1 and really comes alive with P2. P3 has got to be an animal. Did I mention I was jealous of Shark and others here with P3? lol
Fully concur. My dealer's service team are perfectly okay with my tune installs and it's noted in their system that they exist, but I also recognize that's not the norm. The only time I ever had to degrade the ECU to stock was to have an update installed that got rid of the speedometer/cruise displayed speed discrepancy. I think that's an issue with the metric versions of the car that get sold here in Canada. So I needed to take it back to stock programming for that dealer fix, and then I reloaded the new content from the ECU and sent it to EC to get my revised tunes. Less than 24 hours and I had my revised Phase 1 and Phase 2 back, and got them all installed within an hour of the content being available. I can't say enough good things about EC's products and support, and if a person is confused about how to complete their requirements sheet before you get your tunes, I suggest just doing what I did. I called them and spoke with them for a few minutes while I completed it. Doesn't get easier than that. :)
 

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Keeping the stock exhaust system on this car should be considered a federal crime.
 

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Keeping the stock exhaust system on this car should be considered a federal crime.
Dammit man, it hurts to agree with you! Well, the cross pipe for sure.
 

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Thanks sharkcohen. Yes I will indeed break in the car (with new lower seat rails) and see how I feel.

Very interested and glad to hear you say the exhaust produces the least gains. That's opposite of what I gleaned from a couple dyno charts, and what I interpreted TX_Bandit to say. But regardless, the sound (absence of it) is important to me, regardless of power gain.

Could I ask you to help me understand the ECU tuning. I'll jot down my understanding. There seem to be 5 options on the website:
  • Euro+Drive Tuning system (handheld ODB port): $800 : I have to request and download maps from EC and upload them to my car to the existing ECU. And seems if I go to Phase 1, 2, 3 and beyond, I can keep using this same unit. Factory ECU stays in place.
  • Euro+Drive ECU Clone: $1,500 : EC sends me a new ECU with a phase 1 tune that I slap into my car. I keep the original ECU in case I want to put back to stock, eg taking to FIAT service. If I want to go to phase 2 or beyond, I have to shell out some more cash.
  • Euro+Drive ECU Direct: $800 : I remove my factory ECU, ship it to EC, they upload the tune (presumably using the $800 handheld tuner I could have bought), they ship back and I install. I accomplish same thing as owning the handheld system, except if I want to go to phase 2 and beyond, I have to shell out cash. Also, cant readily revert to stock.
  • Booster Basic ECU: $450 but with bluetooth and USB is $575 : piggyback unit, presumably this means it attaches to the factory ECU to "trick" it into making more boost, etc. I can glean the bluetooth allows switching between stock and tuned, but not sure what the USB cable does.
  • Booster Pro ECU: $650 but with bluetooth and USB is $775 : piggyback unit like the Basic one above, but seems only necessary for phase 4+ ?
I havent included any notes on whether the dealer/service department can determine if the car is / has ever been tuned. All of these seem to produce the same Phase 1 gains, if I am not mistaken.

Is all of that correct? It would seem the ODB port tuner is the most flexible. However I'd be tempted to just do the $1,500 ECU clone so I can basically "undo" everything at ease. How often do new maps come out that I'd want to update the tuned ECU? That would make me want to just get the handheld tuner.

One last general question on suspension. Are you suggesting that one might want to firm up the Abarth suspension? I test drove an Abarth (with record exhaust) and a Lusso, and I thought the Abarth suspension was already quite firm, but I might have been distracted by the exhaust noise! It's one of the remaining things I need to figure out between Abarth vs Lusso when I test drive again.

Many thanks again. I'm sorry to ask basic questions, but have to think I'm not the only person that struggles to understand all of the options.
There are claims around the exhausts available, but I don't know that anyone has independently verified them. I know of one case where someone's testing suggested his exhaust did less than the claims. I have no doubt that a larger exhaust will help with a more advanced setup like a turbo upgrade, i.e. squeeze very little bit of performance out, but EC actually built their Phase 3 tune on a car with the stock exhaust, and I know at least one person running Phase 3 with the stock exhaust and he is very happy and reports it is running great. Meanwhile, exhausts are one of the most expensive things you can buy for the car, almost as much as EC's turbo. Guess which one has more value in terms of power? That was really my point on exhausts.

I've spent way too much on exhausts. I've had the Remus mipipe and muffler, the GWR RoadsterSport with resonator, GWR System One, and I have the GWR SportCat and crosspipe. If I could do it all again? I would keep the stock cat and crosspipe, swap out the stock midpipe for an Abarth stock midpipe (I have a Lusso), and install the Record Monza in the back. And I would do that with the EC turbo and Phase 3.

The Euro+Drive Clone and Direct options were EC's first tuning available for this car, before they were able to use handheld tuning. Clone, Direct, and handheld all provide the same tunes and end result. I'd recommend just going handheld.

The Vaitrix Booster modules are piggyback boxes. They plug into a few places on the OEM harness and modify ECU inputs to influence how the ECU works. These kind of systems work well, but have limitations compared to an ECU flash tune. These boxes are really outside of EC's "Phases", although Phase 4 can be achieved by adding a Vaitrix box to install and control water/methanol injection.

On your suspension question, I don't think improving handling necessarily means making the suspension firmer, those two things don't always mean the same thing.
 

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"The GFD DV+ I changed based on what was said here, and I am quite sure it is much better than stock, but I can't tell much if any difference in normal driving.
Based on other members advice I drove the car for a couple of months although I had the DV+ for quite a while. It wasn't until I had to get out of a mildly threatening situation when boost was dropped when changing from 2nd into 3rd at high revs. This is the first turbo car I've driven so guessed it must be the dv although my inexperience may also have been the culprit. Changed it the next day and never experienced that issue since. I can't feel any difference in normal daily driving but I know things are going to work properly if I need them.
 

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With all that has been already said, if you accept to make the car sound a little louder, on the Fiat I would just swap the air filter with a performance one (but still a flat / panel filter), add a stainless steel exhaust and perform the remap. On the Abarth, I would leave the Record Monza on (because it sounds amazing) and instead change the center pipe and put a better air filter, then remap.
 

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Wow, many thanks to TX_Bandit and sharkcohen!

I cant figure out what "SILA tuning module" is on the website. I suspect its one of the replacement ECU's they list (eg Direct tuning/clone) ??

Its available from a different vendor, Madness Autoworks. Here is a link to a post here on this site about it:

SILA TUNING FOR SPIDER 124
Lightchop,

It looks like TX_Bandit provided the link to the SILA Concepts Power+ ECM, but I thought I'd try and explain here as well.

The SILA Power+ is a piggyback style tuning module (ECM) that taps into the FIAT's wiring harness and modifies the signals sent to the factory ECU to make more HP and TQ.

Simply disconnect the factory harness from two sensor, plug the harness from the Power+ in between the connections, route the Power+ wiring harness where you want to mount the ECM, connect it, and enjoy the newfound power in your FIAT.

You will always see more power from a custom tune, but for the drivers who want something a little more cost effective, with a basic installation, and don't wish to trigger the flash counter on their factory ECU the Power+ is a great option.

If there is anything else we can help you with or if you would like to talk with someone who can help explain the options please don't hesitate to reach out to us directly via email [email protected], A PM through the forums, or give us a call at (512)982-9393TX or (562)981-6800CA and we will be happy to answer any questions you have.

Thank you and happy tuning.
 
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