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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hope I'm not offending the car detailing sensibilities of anyone, but if I use a name brand car wash soap/wax combo product and clean my car more often (2-bucket, microfiber everything, etc.), am I doing myself any favors over non-wax soap and having to wax separately?

I'll admit to being sort of lazy about this stuff. I don't take great pleasure over spending time in the driveway/garage washing then hand waxing. Washing, sure. Waxing, not really. Help me make this simple, easy, and preferably not time consuming. I'd rather be driving than washing.

Thanks,
Steve.
 

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Steve,
I'll join you on the that list. :)
I wash my car with a variety of products. Turtle zip wax to Zaino shampoo. I think you've identified the most critical elements.
I stopped at a detailer to discuss some work on the wife's car, and you'd have thought my car was a turd! The guy was looking at it with a magnifying glass and seeing a all sorts of micro scratches. (WTF?)
But it's a road car and I am taking good care of it like you are. Not a show car.
best regards
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Pete.

Bought new MF towels and a MF mitt today, washed them before putting them into service. And 2 new buckets, different colors to help keep them straight.

Weekly to biweekly washing with a name brand soap/wax will be what I start with.

Any other thoughts or opinions?

Steve.
 

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I feel the same as you.
Saw Sonax Polymor Net Shield mentioned on another thread. I'm intrigued so thought I'd pass it on. Perhaps those with experience will chime in
 

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I'll add that I'm using Meguiars Gold Class to wash it weekly with good results
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Meguiars Gold Class, I think I saw that on the shelf today. Does it claim to have carnuba and some magic polymer protectant in it?

Steve.
 

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I use meguirs gold class (orange transparent). It's just a wash, and doesn't have any wax in it. I use a spray wax n dry from turtle wax on the paint and a matte protectant on the vinyl wrap. Occasionally I use a hand turtle wax paste, but that is time consuming and the weather needs to be right; the spray and dry wax seems to work well.

If I didn't have the wrap I'd use the meguirs wash and wax with carnuba (yellow opaque), or amour all wash n wax beads (blue transparent with yellow beads).
 
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I'll add that I'm using Meguiars Gold Class to wash it weekly with good results
I have used the Meguiars Ultimate, really good, easy to apply and to buffet. after a ride or 2 I wipe the car with 2 microfiber cloth, one semi-wet to remove bugs and heavy dust and the other dry to finish it off.,
 

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Steve,
No the Gold Class doesn't have carnuba or anything else in it. It's a "shampoo & conditioner " (which admittedly sounds funny) and claims to clean and condition the paint
 
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Personally I would stay away from all in one products, nothing but compromises.

1. Paint correction. Stripping car wash to remove all waxes, clay (bar, mitt, etc), polish. Then you have smooth swirl fee paint. This makes applying waxes or sealants much easier and will make the car easier to clean. Requires time and a slight investment. So invest or just pay a detail shop.
2. Add wax or sealant, or both
3. Use a car wash that will not strip the wax off, lots of suds (foam cannons are great!)
4. Then use a detail spray designed for your wax or sealant.

I have had my car for a month, only washed twice. Nothing sticks to it. I use my preferred detail spray to wipe it down as needed for dust or bugs on the front.

Yes more effort up front, but so much easier to maintain and gorgeous deep swirl free paint all the time.

Also use quality edge less micro fibers towles


I use Chemical Guys products. If nothing else, great videos for everything including how to wash your car.


In fact my paint looks so good, I have not had the heart to add the heritage stripes even though I bought everything to do it
 

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My only concern regarding soap with wax is avoiding getting it on the soft top. It can be done, however, plain soap (Dawn) is better followed by waxing, or quick detail spray if your finish has already been established.
 

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Problem with Dawn is it will remove all your previous applied coatings of wax/polish etc. Now that's good if you want to start a new product, but defeats the work you've done with prior wax/polish applications.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Can't believe nobody else commented on this I guess I'm just too immature?
Destructo, I guess you weren't thinking that MF = Micro Fiber, eh? I understand... but in the message of mine you linked, and from my opening message in this thread, I was referring to micro fiber. Heck of a lot better than those MF'ing automatic gas station car washes... may as well drag sandpaper down the car!

And since my original message, I've gone through my stock of soap/wax combo (which worked really well, by the way), and bought a jug of Meguiar's Deep Crystal Car Wash, the hot purple stuff, because, among other things, it says it is, "The FUN-TO-USE (yes, in caps) car wash... [that] preserves wax protection." Soap only, not a soap/wax combo. And it was on sale, too. I'll start using it next season.

The 3M spray-on wax product I've mentioned elsewhere has given very good results, too. I'll keep using that.

Steve.
 

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I always had a lot of spotting when using a combo soap/wax. I like the Chemical guys stuff and use Mr. Pink soap followed by the extreme depth X seal wax. In between waxes I do quick details using the cherry speed wipe. Nope not a spokesman for them. Just like their products. I use the blaster sidekick portable car dryer to dry the car. I never touch it or use a shammy to dry it.
 

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Personally I would stay away from all in one products, nothing but compromises.

1. Paint correction. Stripping car wash to remove all waxes, clay (bar, mitt, etc), polish. Then you have smooth swirl fee paint. This makes applying waxes or sealants much easier and will make the car easier to clean. Requires time and a slight investment. So invest or just pay a detail shop.
2. Add wax or sealant, or both
3. Use a car wash that will not strip the wax off, lots of suds (foam cannons are great!)
4. Then use a detail spray designed for your wax or sealant.

I have had my car for a month, only washed twice. Nothing sticks to it. I use my preferred detail spray to wipe it down as needed for dust or bugs on the front.

Yes more effort up front, but so much easier to maintain and gorgeous deep swirl free paint all the time.

Also use quality edge less micro fibers towles


I use Chemical Guys products. If nothing else, great videos for everything including how to wash your car.


In fact my paint looks so good, I have not had the heart to add the heritage stripes even though I bought everything to do it
I asked the same question on the other thread
Why on earth would you strip and clay a two week old car?
I’m assuming you brought it home and waxed it
Why not wash it and touch it up with spray wax or just re wax?
I guess if you are daily driving in salt, dirt, road tar,and parking under trees (sap),but I pleasure drive on clean country roads.
I have a truck and a Jeep that I daily and I’ll clay those and reward on occasion.
 

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I had mine clear-coated by the dealer, I use Turtle wax car wash/wax, I just rinse off the top and use 303 Convertible Fabric Top Cleaning and Care Kit when needed. I use Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner with Rain Repellent on the windows with decent results. Shammy dry and leaf blower for those hard to reach nocks and crannies.
 

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I had mine clear-coated by the dealer, I use Turtle wax car wash/wax, I just rinse off the top and use 303 Convertible Fabric Top Cleaning and Care Kit when needed. I use Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner with Rain Repellent on the windows with decent results. Shammy dry and leaf blower for those hard to reach nocks and crannies.
I’m in basically the same Camp
I like Maguires
 

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I use Samoniz Wash and Wax but I usually wax it every other month or so using Meguiar California Gold with Carnauba.

However I ordered a ceramic nano coating that's supposed to replace the wax but last 2 years. It's the CQuartz UK 3.0 with Refill kit and will report back the results. It's not cheap but for 2 years, if it works close to advertised I'll be very happy.

This is the product above.

 

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Why on earth would you strip and clay a two week old car?
Because the car has sat around on a ship and in a car pound for who knows how long, getting covered in all sorts of crap, and clay barring even a brand new car removes quite a lot of surface contaminants and restores the "factory finish" you thought you were getting with a brand new car...
 
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