[68wooley]

Update 11/16/19:
IMPORTANT NOTE - PLEASE READ!!!

Since this post was originally written, Mazda has released a newer version of the ICE Firmware. This latest version includes updates designed to prevent the installation of third party tweaks. It is important you do not use this version. Whilst the instructions in the guide below remain largely the same, updated instructions specifying the correct version of the firmware to use and where to obtain it from have been added to Ameridan's blog post version of this guide (https://21stcenturyfiat124spider.wordpress.com/2019/02/18/universal-version-70-fiat-tweak/#how-to) and in my own PDF versions of the guide, available at http://www.mediafire.com/file/201759io15ariii/124Spider_CP_AA_Upgrade_Guide.zip/file.

I highly recommend you follow the instructions on one of those two resources as these will be kept up to date if any future revisions become necessary.

Just to reiterate, ensure you are using version 70.000.100 and NOT 70.000.335 of the system firmware.

Original Post:
Fiat 124 Spider 2017+ Apple CarPlay / Android Auto Upgrade.
Part 1 – Firmware Update

This is part one of a guide covering the steps required to install the ‘official’ Mazda upgrade to the CMU (what we used to call ‘the stereo’) to add Apple CarPlay and Android Auto functionality in your 2017+ FIAT or Abarth 124 Spider.

PDF Versions of this guide can be downloaded from this link.

This part of the guide covers updating the firmware in the CMU and must be carried out prior to steps described in part two. The version 70 firmware will run on your existing hardware quite happily so you can, for example, carry out the firmware update one weekend and complete the hardware install the following weekend.

A couple of caveats you should be aware of if you are contemplating this upgrade:

1. This update is only available if you have the 7” display. The 3” displays in some Classicas are not compatible.
2. FCA are being their usual useless selves and have not issued a FIAT / Abarth specific firmware version for this upgrade. This means we need to use a Mazda firmware for now. This has two consequences:
   • The startup and splash-screens and various other parts of the interface will reference Mazda rather than FIAT / Abarth (note the ‘Mazda’ icon in the screenshot above for example). Thankfully, this can mostly be corrected via Ameridan’s fantastic tweaks – we’ll cover this later.
   • The in-built navigation will stop working. The system does a lookup of your vehicle’s VIN as part of its security checks. Mazda firmware expects to see a Mazda VIN, FIAT firmware, a FIAT VIN. Because our cars present a FIAT VIN to Mazda firmware after the upgrade, the in-built NAV no longer works. Again, thanks to Ameridan, there is a workaround for this that we’ll cover, but you’ll also have access to Apple and Google maps, Waze etc after the upgrade so you may not care.
3. If you are taking your car in for service, do not let the dealership attempt to update your CMU firmware - nothing good will come of it. There is a FIAT specific firmware version that is newer than the one the 2017 and early 2018 cars came with so it is possible they will try – however that will break your CarPlay / Android Auto compatibility.
4. After the firmware update, the Bluetooth ID for the car changes to “Mazda”. I’ll see if we can fix that somehow, but for now, just be aware you will need to re-pair your phone with the car following the update.

 
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

To update the firmware, you will need:

• V70.00.21 or later Mazda firmware.
• A blank FAT32 formatted USB stick – 8 to 16GB is recommended and please use a quality name-brand stick rather than the cheapest poc you can find. If the stick fails on you during the firmware flash, you could end up with a non-functional CMU.
• Ameridan’s ID7 Tweak Package
• Ameridan’s Abarth or Fiat Version 70 Boot Package
• Ameridan’s Version 70 NNG Fix Package

The download locations for the firmware files and each of Ameridan’s packages will be covered later.
 
USEFUL LINKS AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The information in this how-to has been pulled from a number of sources and I hereby nod my hat to:

Ameridan and his fantastic blog and work on the All-In-Tweaks at https://21stcenturyfiat124spider.wordpress.com This is well worth checking out even if you never have any intention of doing the CarPlay / Android Auto update.

ASH8 for his how-to thread at https://mazda3revolution.com/forums...enuine-carplay-android-auto-all-here-now.html

I was inspired by rsmagee and TheSalamander – Fiat 124 CarPlay pioneers – in this thread: https://www.124spider.org/forum/26-electronics-audio-lighting/30666-carplay-up-running.html

The original Mazda All-In-One tweaks are at https://mazdatweaks.com/

ATTENTION – IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT THE FIRMRWARE UPGRADE DESCRIBED HERE IS CARRIED OUT BEFORE THE INSTALLATION OF ANY OF THE NEW HARDWARE DESCRIBED IN PART 2.

In order for Apple CarPlay and Android Auto to be available, we have to upgrade our CMU’s to run the Mazda version 70 firmware (firmware is simply the software that controls the unit). Our Fiats and Abarths shipped with a Fiat / Abarth branded derivative of either version 56 (2017 and early 2018 cars) or version 59 (later 2018 and 2109 cars).
The version 56 firmware allowed tweaking of certain features via software developed by a group of enthusiasts - including things like enabling the touchscreen while the car is moving, changing background images and swapping FIAT logos for the Abarth Scorpion. Mazda, and presumably FIAT’s, lawyers got nervous about this as they considered some of tweaks to be bypassing safety features (obviously none of them had ever tried to use the command wheel to enter an address). As a result, starting with version 59 of the firmware Mazda blocked the ability to apply tweaks. FIAT started shipping 124’s with their derivative of version 59 firmware mid-way through the 2018 model run.
Not to be beaten, the very clever developers of the tweak software developed a patch (called ID7) that allows the tweaks to continue to be installed on version 59 and later firmware, but only if the patch is installed BEFORE upgrading to version 59 firmware or later. As we’ll be upgrading to version 70 firmware, we need to install the patch before upgrading to retain the ability to apply tweaks. It is also this patch that will allow us to restore the built-in navigation function following the upgrade.
As my car is a 2017 and shipped with the version 56 firmware, I was able to install the patch using the method described below. If you have a 2018 or 2019 with the version 59 firmware already installed (or your dealer updated you to it during a service), there is an alternative method of installing the patch described at https://mazdatweaks.com/serial/ It’s a more involved, but currently it’s your only option. I haven’t tried this process and the instructions below assume you are starting from version 56 firmware. You can check your firmware version on the CMU by going to:

HOME -> SETTINGS -> SYSTEM -> ABOUT -> VERSION INFORMATION

PART 1 CONTINUED IN NEXT POST

 

[68wooley]

PART 1 - STEP 1 – DOWNLOAD REQUIRED FILES

We’ll start by downloading the required firmware files and the three Ameridan tweak packages.

1. Go to https://my.hidrive.com/share/hsodpqja.l#$/Mazda_Firmware to get the required firmware files.

2. Go to the folder relevant to your region of the world; NA N for North America, EU N for Europe, 4A N for Oceana. The following steps assume you’ve gone to the NA N folder – just swap in the corresponding files for other regions as appropriate.

3. Download the two version 70 files and the Mazda instructions PDF to your computer:

a. cmu150_NA_70.00.100A_failsafe.up​

b. cmu150_NA_70.00.100A_reinstall.up​

c. 2018 FIRMWARE CMU UPDATE PROCEDURE-WORLDWIDE.pdf​

Download the files one at a time rather than use the ‘download all files’ options as the folder method compresses everything into a zip file which can corrupt the update (‘up’) files.
​

4. Download Ameridan’s ID7 Tweak Package, Fiat or Abarth Version 70 Boot Package and Version 70 NNG Fix package from the following URLs respectively:

a. http://www.mediafire.com/file/0r6pzhongok9h0u/autorun_copy_to_usb.zip​

b. If you want Fiat startup and shutdown animations, get http://www.mediafire.com/file/6al6as23hxqusm1/Version+70+Fiat+Boot.zip
If you want Abarth startup and shutdown animations, get http://www.mediafire.com/file/bqhsl025ql05h74/Version+70+Abarth+Boot.zip​

c. http://www.mediafire.com/file/ffjgv4cx7lv0b6f/Fix+ver70+NNG.zip​

At each URL, click the large ‘download button:

5. Unzip the contents of the zip files to folders on your computer. I put them in folders called Ameridan Tweaks/autorun_copy_to_usb_id7, Ameridan Tweaks/Version 70 Abarth Boot and Ameridan Tweaks/Fix ver70 NNG respectively:

PART 1 CONTINUED IN NEXT POST 

 

[68wooley]

PART 1 - STEP 2 – FORMAT YOUR USB DRIVE

1. Plug your USB stick in to your computer and back up any files on it you want to keep for later – we are about to wipe it so you will lose any existing files you don’t back up.

2. Format your USB stick as FAT32 – to do this, right click on the drive in Windows Explorer and select “Format”:

3. In the resulting screen, make sure the file system is set to FAT32 and enter a volume label (this is the label used to describe the drive in File Explorer). I set my volume label to “FIAT”. Click OK to begin the format and click OK on the warnings about losing any existing data on the drive.

 

 

[68wooley]

PART 1 STEP 3 – INSTALL ID7 PATCH

We’ll next install the ID7 patch on your CMU. This patch will allow us to replace much of the Mazda branding in the version 70 firmware and restore the built-in Nav function after we complete the firmware upgrade. If your car is currently on a version 59 firmware, you will need to follow the process described at https://mazdatweaks.com/serial/ The steps below assume you are on a version 56 firmware.

1. Copy the contents of the unzipped ID7 package (in forder “autorun_copy_to_usb_id7” on my computer) to your USB drive.

2. Safely eject your USB stick. We’re now ready to go to your car.
3. Turn off Bluetooth on any phones you have paired with your car.
4. Go to your car and unplug any connected USB cables and remove your navigation SD card.
5. Plug in your USB stick.
6. Without touching any of the pedals, hit the start button once to put the car in to accessory mode and turn the CMU on.
7. Switch audio source to FM
8. After a few minutes a screen will pop up asking if you want to select an installation method. Use the touchscreen to click on Install

9. You’ll then see a screen asking you to confirm you want to run the update. Click Update.

10. After a minute or two, you’ll get a message saying the update is complete and asking if you want to reboot. Click reboot. When the screen goes blank, remove your USB stick.

The ID7 patch is now installed. Go back to your computer.

PART ONE CONTINUED IN NEXT POST

 

[68wooley]

PART 1 STEP 4 – INSTALLING THE MAZDA VERSION 70 FIRMWARE.

For the install of the version 70 firmware files, we’ll be following the official Mazda instructions. The process is very similar to the ID7 patch install we just completed. They are very clear with good screenshots so I’m not going to try and recreate them.

1. Plug your USB stick in to your computer and delete all existing files from it.

2. Copy the two update files to your USB drive:

a. cmu150_NA_70.00.100A_failsafe.up​

b. cmu150_NA_70.00.100A_reinstall.up​

3. Print off the Mazda instructions (2018 FIRMWARE CMU UPDATE PROCEDURE-WORLDWIDE.pdf). Read and familiarize yourself with them. There are thirty steps.

4. Carry out the updates according to the Mazda instructions.

You’ll be installing the two files one after the other – the failsafe file followed by the main update file. The overall process will take about an hour – make sure you have enough time to complete it. Pay attention to the note about depressing the brake or clutch every 20 minutes during the install to prevent the CMU shutting down in the middle of the update.

Once the update is complete, we’ve done everything needed to support CarPlay and Android Auto. The next two steps are optional and only needed if you want to replace the Mazda startup and shutdown animations with Fiat or Abarth equivalents or if you want to restore the built in Navigation functionality.

PART 1 IS CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST

 

[68wooley]

PART 1 STEP 5 – REPLACE MAZDA STARTUP AND SHUTDOWN ANIMATIONS WITH FIAT / ABARTH EQUIVALENTS

To replace the Mazda startup / shutdown animations that ship with version 70 firmware with Fiat or Abarth equivalents, carry out the following steps:

1. Plug your USB stick in to your computer and delete all the files on it.
2. Copy the contents of the unzipped folder (“Ameridan Tweaks/Version 70 Abarth Boot“ on my computer) to your USB Drive.

3. Safely eject your USB stick. We’re now ready to go back to your car.
4. The process of replacing the startup / shutdown annimations on your car is the same as installing the ID7 package. Start by disabling Bluetooth on all phones paired with your car
5. Go to your car and unplug any connected USB cables and remove your navigation SD card.
6. Plug in your USB stick.
7. Without touching any of the pedals, hit the start button once to put the car in to accessory mode and turn the CMU on.
8. Switch audio source to FM
9. After a few minutes a screen will pop up asking you to confirm the installation. Follow the onscreen prompts as before. The install will only taka minute or two.
10. When prompted to reboot, click “OK”. When the screen goes blank, remove your USB drive.
11. After rebooting, you should see a Fiat or Abarth animation rather than a Mazda one. Note that under certain circumstances the Mazda logo may still briefly appear.


PART 1 STEP 6 – RESTORING BUILT IN NAVIGATION FUNCTIONALITY.

To restore the built in navigation functionality, we’ll run Ameridan’s Version 70 NNG fix tweak that replaces certain files that shipped with the Mazda version 70 firmware with equivalents from the Fiat version 56 firmware:

1. Plug your USB stick in to your computer and delete all the files on it.
2. Copy the contents of the unzipped folder (“Ameridan Tweaks/ Fix ver70 NNG “on my computer) to your USB Drive.

3. Safely eject your USB stick. We’re now ready to go back to your car.
4. The process of running the tweak to restore the built in navigation functionality on your car is the same as installing the ID7 package. Start by disabling Bluetooth on all phones paired with your car
5. Go to your car and unplug any connected USB cables and remove your navigation SD card.
6. Plug in your USB stick.
7. Without touching any of the pedals, hit the start button once to put the car in to accessory mode and turn the CMU on.
8. Switch audio source to FM
9. After a few minutes a screen will pop up asking you to confirm the installation. Follow the onscreen prompts as before. The install will take a minute or two.
10. When prompted to reboot, click “OK”. When the screen goes blank, remove your USB drive.
11. Put your navigation SD card back in the slot and start navigation. You should see maps launch as normal rather than the compass screen.

This is the end of the steps needed to upgrade the firmware. We can now move on to replacing the USB hub and cables as described in part two of this guide.

 

[68wooley]

CarPlay Upgrade Part 2 - Hardware Install

Fiat / Abarth 124 Spider 2017+ Apple CarPlay / Android Auto Upgrade.
Part 2 – Hardware Install.

This is part two of a guide covering the steps required to install the ‘official’ Mazda upgrade to the CMU (what we used to call ‘the stereo’) to add Apple CarPlay and Android Auto functionality in your 2017+ FIAT or Abarth 124 Spider. This part of the guide covers installing necessary replacement hardware in your dashboard. The first part of this guide covers updating the firmware in your CMU and must be carried out prior to the steps described in this part of the guide.
 
WHAT YOU WILL NEED:

For this part of the install, you will need:

• Replacement USB cables: Mazda Part C922-V6-605A
• Replacement USB HUB: Mazda Part TK78-66-9U0C
• Metric socket set with 10mm socket and 200mm / 8” extension.
• Cable ties (approximately 10)
• Scissors
• Flat head and Philips screwdrivers.
• Foam Tape
• Trim removal tools

I ordered the required USB hub and cables on Amazon at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRPSRKH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 – price at time of writing was $163.

The foam tape is used secure the excess USB cable behind the dash and to prevent it rattling (the same replacement USB cables are used for other Mazda vehicles, all of which are significantly larger than the 124 / MX-5 and need a longer cable run so there’s quite a bit of excess). I ordered the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G382DX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Others have used: https://tinyurl.com/yatbqfn9 As it turns out, the hardware kit I ordered with the replacement USB hub and cables included foam tape and cable ties so this turned out to be unnecessary.

Trim removal tools simply make it less likely you’ll damage the bits of trim that need to be removed to access the CMU. I have this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can also use a flat headed screwdriver with some electrical tape over the head (to protect the trim) for anything we’d be using a trim tool for.
 
In order to support CarPlay and Android Auto, the USB hub (the little area of the dash where you plug in USB cables and your navigation SD card) needs to be replaced along with the cables connecting the CMU to the USB hub. The replacement hub can be identified by the phone icon next to one of the USB ports – you use this port to connect your phone if you want to run CarPlay or Android Auto. It’s unclear to me exactly what the replacement hub adds, but I’ve heard people say it provides higher voltage USB connectivity (i.e. faster charging or stopping the battery draining while your phone is running CarPlay or Android Auto) and /or it correctly identifies the system as being licensed to run CarPlay or Android Auto.
The photos below show the replacement parts we will be fitting including the foam pads and cable ties my parts kit included.

There are two USB cables in the kit, one with a gray and blue plug at one end and a brown plug at the other end, and one with a gray and green plug at one end and a black plug at the other end. Make sure you have both cables.
The foam padding comes already separated into 30mm by 100mm sections:

The following diagram shows the routing of the cables we will be installing:

In order to be able to access the back of the CMU and to replace the hub unit, we need to remove a number of pieces of trim. This will seem intimidating at first, but in reality, it’s pretty straight forward. Most pieces simply pull off and clip back on.

A full list of shop manual instructions for each piece of trim to be removed, as well as the Mazda cable installation instructions and videos of an installation can be found at:
https://my.hidrive.com/share/hsodpqja.l#$/Mazda_Firmware/-CarPlay-AndroidAuto%20INSTALL

Eddie Clark also posted a video of his CarPlay installation on his YouTube Pistons and Petrol channel:

Trim pieces will be removed in the following order:

1. Passenger Side Scuff Plate
2. Passenger Side Front Side Trim
3. Shift knob
4. Shift Panel, Console Panel and Upper Panel (these are listed separately in the official Mazda instructions, but can actually be removed as one piece)
5. Parking brake boot panel
6. Passenger side A-pillar trim
7. Passenger side lower trim
8. Rear console
9. Front console and Front Console Panel – again, these are listed separately in the Mazda instructions but can be removed as one piece.
10. Center Panel No. 2
11. Meter (Gauge Cluster) Hood
12. Center display (this is the display screen and actual CMU unit).

The following diagram shows the location of each item:

Overall, it took me roughly two and half hours to complete the installation, including stopping to take pictures.

 

[68wooley]

PART 2 STEP 1 – TRIM REMOVAL

1. Start by lowering the convertible top and windows. While this isn’t entirely necessary, I find it much easier to work with the interior of the car as exposed as possible.
2. Make sure your car is parked somewhere where you can fully open both doors.
3. Designate a space for your removed trim pieces. I laid out a packing blanket on my garage floor to put the pieces on. You may also want to put a towel or similar down on the floor beside each door to kneel on as you will be working in those areas.
4. Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative terminal of your battery. Note, the black plastic piece on the terminal is rather fragile – do not strike or pull on it:

5. Move to the passenger side door and remove the scuff plate. This is just attached with clips. Start at one end, slide your hand underneath, pull up to release the clips at that side and slide your hand forward until all the remaining clips release:

The picture below shows the underside removed piece with the location of the clips:

6. Remove the passenger front side trim. This is the piece in the foot-well shown in the following picture.

The piece is secured by a pop-clip roughly where the green square is. Use a trim tool or flat headed screwdriver to pop up the center section of the clip and then pull the whole clip out.

Put the clip somewhere safe. Note, the center pin is only loosely attached to the outer section – be careful they don’t become separated and get lost.

Remove the seaming strip – this just pulls off:

You can now remove the trim piece by pulling it backwards towards the rear of the car. It is secured by a single clip that will just pop out.

7. Remove the shift knob. On the manual cars, it simply unscrews – if you have an automatic, refer to Ameridan’s post at https://21stcenturyfiat124spider.wordpress.com/2017/03/05/removing-the-shift-knob/

PART 2 CONTINUES IN THE NEXT POST

 

[68wooley]

8. Next, remove the center console. This is listed as three separate pieces in the Mazda instructions, but it actually comes out as a single piece – this includes the trim surrounding shifter, the rubber cubby space under the AC controls and the piece containing the command knob controls:

The trim is held in by clips that just pop out. Start by lifting the silver bezel of the shifter surround at the rear passenger side. Once the first clip pops, work your way rearward down the passenger side, around the back of the trim, and up the driver’s side until all the clips release (lift the rear cubby lid to get it out of the way).

Once all the clips are released, gently lift the trim and look underneath - there are two cables under the command knob unit that need to be released. Push the retaining clips on the plugs in and slide them out. For some reason, I found it difficult to locate the retaining clip on the larger of the two plugs. The following picture shows where it is:

Once the cables are unplugged, slide the trim up over the shifter and remove from the car.

9. Remove the parking brake boot panel. This is held in by two clips – one at the front and one at the rear. I used a trim tool to pop the clips out:

Once both clips are released, slide the boot and trim up and over the brake lever to remove:

10. Remove the passenger side A-Panel trim – this is the panel running up the side of the windscreen. To start, use a trim tool or flat headed screwdriver to remove the piece highlighted below:

This piece should pop out by prying it backwards towards the rear of the car. Once it is removed, remove the rest of the A-Pillar trim by starting at the top and pulling towards the center of the car. Work your way down the trim as each clip pops out in turn. Note that there is a tweater speaker attached to the trim. Rather than try and release the speaker cable (which is a bit tricky), I just laid the disconnected trim on top of the dashboard. The following picture isn’t very clear (lots of reflection from the windscreen), but it’s taken from outside the car and shows the trim lying on the dashboard:

PART 2 IS CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST

 

[68wooley]

11. Next remove the passenger side lower trim:

This is held in by a single 10mm bolt and a series of clips that just pop out. The bolt is in the passenger foot-well:

Once the bolt is removed, the trim can be removed by starting at the passenger side and pulling back towards the rear of the car, releasing each clip in turn.

12. Remove the rear center console – this includes the trim surrounding the transmission tunnel and the rear cubby. Start by removing your cupholders if you have them. Next, use a Philips screwdriver to undo the two screws just in front of the shifter:

The panel is now held in by pop out clips. Slide your hands under each side of the front of the panel and lift it upwards to release the clips. Slide your hands backwards down each side of the panel popping each clip out in turn until panel is released:

Remove the panel from the car.

PART 2 IS CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST

 

[68wooley]

13. Remove the front console and front console panel. The Mazda instructions described this as a two-step process, but I found both pieces came out as a single unit. This is the existing USB hub, the panel with the seatbelt and airbag warning lights, the seat heater buttons and the surrounding trim:

Put one hand on either side of the trim surround and pull back – the entire unit should release as one:

Note that there are three cables on the back of the unit that need to be released. Push down on the locking tab of each and slide it out.

In the picture above, the foam wrapped cable with the small black plug will be replaced with our two new cables. The cables with the larger black and white plugs will be reused. Take note of which cable is which before moving on. We’ll be replacing the USB hub in the removed unit shortly so keep it handy.

14. Remove ‘Center Panel No. 2’. This is the panel with the hazard warning lights switch and central air vent in it. It’s simply held on with pop out clips. I found it easiest to start at the passenger side of the panel and work my way back to the center of the car popping out each clip in turn:

There is a single cable for the hazard warning lights that needs to be released on this piece.

15. Pop out the meter (gauge cluster) hood. Note, you don’t need to actually remove this, just pop it out and move it to the side far enough that we can get access to the CMU.
Start by lowering the steering wheel as far as possible. You can then pop the hood out by pulling it straight back towards the rear of the car. It is held in by two clips immediately on the steering wheel side of each air vent. Once released, move the hood rearwards and towards the driver side of the car, out of the way of the CMU:

16. Remove the display screen and CMU. This is attached with a single 10mm bolt:

Once the bolt is removed, pull the unit back to release:

There are five cables on the back of the unit that need to be released. The cable with the black and green plug will be replaced by our new cables. The other cables will be reused. Pay attention to which cable comes out of which socket as you are releasing each.

We have now removed all necessary trim pieces.

PART 2 IS CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST

 

[68wooley]

PART 2 STEP 2 – USB HUB REPLACEMENT

We’ll now replace the original USB hub in the front console with our new unit.

1. Separate the front console trim from the rest of the unit by pulling it backwards until the retaining clips release:

2. Remove the airbag / seatbelt warning light unit by undoing the two Philips screws on each side:

3. Pop out the old USB Hub by pushing down on the 4 retaining tabs, one at a time. Slide the old unit out and then slide the new unit in in its place. (Sorry – I somehow forgot to take pictures of this).

4. Once the new unit clicks in to place, reassemble the front console by screwing the light panel back in place and clicking the trim back on.

 
PART 2 STEP 3 – USB CABLE PREPERATION

We’re now going to prepare the USB cables for installation by lining up the plugs on each cable, measuring out the required run, and tidying up the excess cable with cable ties and foam. The Mazda instructions provide the following diagram showing what we are trying to do:

The measurements in this are pretty good. I found by following these I had just enough cable to work with without large amounts of excess in the way as I was reinstalling everything. My prepared cables looked like this:

PART 2 IS CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST

 

[68wooley]

PART 2 STEP 4 – USB CABLE ROUTING

1. Move your prepared USB cables to the car.

2. Route the end of the cables you wrapped in foam tape (with the black and brown connectors) from the top of the dash down to the bottom:

I found there was enough of a gap in the area shown to be able to route the cables down quite easily:

3. Once you have the cables routed, align the new USB cables with the existing cable (black plug with foam wrapped cable), wrap the existing plug with foam so it doesn’t rattle against anything, bend it back out of the way, and attach the new cables to the existing wiring harness with a cable tie:

4. Tuck the excess USB cable that you wrapped in foam under the upper dashboard member:

Secure the excess cable to the dash member with a cable tie:

5. As with the lower USB cables, align the new upper USB cables with the existing cable, wrap the existing cable in foam, bend it back out of the way and secure the cables to the existing wiring harness with a cable tie. :

6. Secure any excess length of the new USB cables to the dash member with a cable tie. I didn’t grab a phot of this, but you can see it in the wiring diagram above.

PART 2 IS CONTINUED IN THE NEXT POST

 

[68wooley]

PART 2 STEP 6 – RECONNECT USB HUB AND CMU

1. Place the CMU / display unit and front panel containing the new USB hub close enough to their respective connectors to be able to plug them back in, but do not fully reinstall the units just yet.

2. Connect the USB hub and CMU according to the following diagram. Any cable not on this diagram should be replaced in the plug it was originally removed from. Specifically, there are three additional cables that need to go back in to the CMU and a cable for the airbag /seatbelt warning lights in the front panel. Each plug will only fit in the socket it is intended for.

3. Once everything is plugged in, reconnect the negative terminal on your battery and push the start button once to put the car in accessory mode. Plug your phone into the new USB socket with the smartphone icon and confirm CarPlay or Android Auto starts up (make sure you are running iOS 12 on your iPhone for the best experience. I believe on Android phones you may need to download an app to enable Android Auto, but I’m not familiar enough with it to say for sure):

If everything starts up – congratulations, the install is complete. Switch off the car by hitting start twice then button everything back up by reversing the trim removal instructions. If there are any problems, double check you have plugged the new USB cables in to the correct sockets and try again.

 

[GregtheBike]

Excellent write up

I appreciate the notes on “which way to pull” when unclipping many of the parts.
I will say that did not disassemble the part the New USB hub goes in to like you did.
I was following the video for my disassembly and I don’t think they took it apart either.

It’s a bit fiddle the way I did it (getting fingers behind and plugging in the black & brown) so I’d say your way might have been easier.

Anyway, nice write-up and I’m sure anyone doing this upgrade has an easier life now!

 

[68wooley]

I will say that did not disassemble the part the New USB hub goes in to like you did.

Yeah - that's not necessary, but I found it easier to get the hub out by doing so.

 

[Mike34]

Just awesome. Much mahalo @68wooley

A question (statement?) and this maybe answered (commented) by others too.

I think I saw a checksum program to verify the downloads. As this was written up in the original walkthroughs...

But I’ve never seen anyone else mention it.

Is it necessary? Did you do it?

Also, the foam tape...is that necessary? Or can one use another source of tape? Tesa wire loom tape is awesome and I have a few rolls. I know just tape. But that foam tape stuff..I’ve never liked it.

Again, wonderful write up!

I will tackle this...Good to know you don’t have to have the hardware to install the updates.

Oh and I assume windows based operating software for all the downloads and formatting.

Aloha mike

 

[Jowster]

Wow, what an incredible howto write-up. A massive thank you for putting all this together!

 

[Santtu]

Do we have in some thread (so many) overview of the available features of Android Auto on Spider? Perhaps a separate tutorial on why to do this additionally to this marvelous write up on how to do this?

 

[68wooley]

Just awesome. Much mahalo @68wooley

I think I saw a checksum program to verify the downloads. As this was written up in the original walkthroughs...

But I’ve never seen anyone else mention it.

Is it necessary? Did you do it?

Also, the foam tape...is that necessary? Or can one use another source of tape? Tesa wire loom tape is awesome and I have a few rolls. I know just tape. But that foam tape stuff..I’ve never liked it.

I did run the checksum program out of curiosity and debated including it, but to be honest I think it’s overkill and it’ll likely confuse more people than it’ll help. If you’re technically minded, go ahead and try it. If not, don’t worry about it.

You can probably get away without the foam tape, or use any you have already lying about. With that said, I’m pretty sure it’s going to be included with the replacement cables for most folks.