Fiat 124 Spider Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I was driving on the highway a few days ago. Had the car in Phase 3 Sport on. I turned the Euro+Drive Pedal Pro up to 9 on Sport+ (I usually keep it Sport+ level 2 or 3 for everyday driving) just for a change. As I laid into the throttle the car gave some weird feedback. Revs went up I think, acceleration did not. But it was subtle. Almost like a pulsing vibration. Definitely nothing I've experienced since owning the car since new. I suspect the clutch, but the car has less than 8,000 miles on the odometer. It wasn't the clutch slippage sound and feel I'm used to from previous experience. It's hard to explain the vibration/sound/feel the car was doing. After it did it twice I put the car down to 1 and turned off sport to baby it home since I was close. I put Phase1/2 on the car after 3,000 miles, and Phase 2/3 on there at 5,500 miles. So there hasn't been a lot of time on that tune and I would think the parts would hold up longer than that. I know I have an exhaust leak and it should be going back to Rosso sometime next month to fix and maybe more goodies installed but I doubt the small leak would have caused the symptoms I was experiencing. Any feedback or insight from you guys will be appreciated. Has anyone here had a similar problem with similar symptoms? What was your resolution? Has anyone here changed their clutch to stage 1, 2 or 3? Which brand did you use? How did you like it after install? Does it hold the power well and leave room for future modifications or power increases? I have some car experience, but mostly in maintenance, tune-ups, brakes, and tires. This situation is a little outside of my wheelhouse. Now if the car was a bike, that would be a different story.
 

·
Registered
2020 Abarth 124 Brillante White Velleno package with Monza exhaust.
Joined
·
284 Posts
For clutch info check out @Calehedron s build going all in. Do you get the same issue with the tune only, Pedal boost off? Reason I ask is I had a first gen madness pedal booster and it did some strange things. I ended up taking it off and just running a maxpower unit in sport mode. Also correct me if I’m wrong but doesn’t the tune already remap the throttle? Why do you need a pedal booster?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
If you really want to check to see if the clutch is holding correctly, get into the highest gear you can that allows you to lay into the boost a little bit.
iirc, fourth and fifth gear at ~ 75 and you should get into that high boost threshold. If the clutch starts slipping, then your clutch simply cannot hold the power being asked of it.

HOWEVA, you did mention that you're already well acquainted with what a slipping clutch feels like, so I trust you in that regard.
Exactly how did this event happen, play by play?
Did you downshift first, or perhaps the car began to accelerate and then all of the sudden you were getting strange stutters and felt like power was being limited?
As much detail as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's definitely the clutch guys. I was Phase 2 sport off this morning coming into work and in 5th gear this time and same behavior. I guess I'm in the market for an upgraded clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
For clutch info check out @Calehedron s build going all in. Do you get the same issue with the tune only, Pedal boost off? Reason I ask is I had a first gen madness pedal booster and it did some strange things. I ended up taking it off and just running a maxpower unit in sport mode. Also correct me if I’m wrong but doesn’t the tune already remap the throttle? Why do you need a pedal booster?
You are correct, the reworked ECU maps do remap the throttle. My Gen. 1 pedal pro allows for complete customization of the throttle which I prefer on a fly-by-wire throttle system as as well as some other neat features and is designed to work with other EC mods according to them, thus I have it installed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mtnghost

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you really want to check to see if the clutch is holding correctly, get into the highest gear you can that allows you to lay into the boost a little bit.
iirc, fourth and fifth gear at ~ 75 and you should get into that high boost threshold. If the clutch starts slipping, then your clutch simply cannot hold the power being asked of it.

HOWEVA, you did mention that you're already well acquainted with what a slipping clutch feels like, so I trust you in that regard.
Exactly how did this event happen, play by play?
Did you downshift first, or perhaps the car began to accelerate and then all of the sudden you were getting strange stutters and felt like power was being limited?
As much detail as possible.
Agreed. And I have done this in 5th and 6th and get the same behavior. And it wasn't deep into the boost. I did not downshift first. I was cruising on the highway. The only thing I did yesterday was max out the pedal pro. Today, I commuted to work pedal pro on 1 sport plus and it did it 5th gear.
 

·
Registered
2020 Abarth 124 Brillante White Velleno package with Monza exhaust.
Joined
·
284 Posts
Check out this thread looks like this is the way your are heading.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Check out this thread looks like this is the way your are heading.
thanks
 
  • Like
Reactions: mtnghost

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well guys, I'm not sure what the issue is now. The car seems like it bogs down in every gear just as the boost should be coming on. Like a carburetor getting too much fuel. So I suspect suspect clutch less now, although I will admit I have no clue as to what symptoms a Mazda clutch exhibits when failing. I take it back to Rosso on the 16th. Hopefully they can sort it out. I did just have it serviced at the dealer, but I double checked everything under the hood and don't see any hoses or electrical connections disconnected like around the wastegate. Perhaps @Greg has some insight. Car was running fine before and pulling strong despite the suspected exhaust leak after before the primary O2 sensor. Car is Phase2/3 with 1446+, EC FMIC, EC V2, Forge WG, DV+, Brisk plugs, Fitch FC, EC catch can, EC crosspipe, and EC pedal pro.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Hi walawn, as the few who have reported clutch issues on this board, you seem to be uncertain about describing/diagnosing clutch slippage. I assumed that the ability to recognize that engine and car speed are no longer in synch is necessary for driving a manual. In any case, if you are in a high gear, where the car can only accelerate gently, and giving gas makes the engine suddenly rev much faster, that's clutch slippage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I know how to diagnose clutch slippage in motorcycles since I am a certified tech with experience. I would assume cars would be the same in principle, just on a larger scale. I'm not an idiot. The car is not increasing in RPM while in gear sans acceleration. If it did that, I wouldn't need to be on this forum since it would be an obvious clutch issue. Reread my post for details. The behavior I'm experiencing is not what I would expect from a clutch issue. Since I've spent thousands of dollars with Eurocompulsion and lots of my TIME, you'd think they'd chime in here since they are on the forum. Hopefully I'll have more answers and solutions mid-month and I'll relay them here since someone might have a similar issue one day.
 

·
Registered
2020 Abarth 124 Brillante White Velleno package with Monza exhaust.
Joined
·
284 Posts
Have you tried removing the pedal pro yet, just as a test to eliminate it as a potential cause? I would start putting things back to stock one by one until you figure out who the culprit is. This is how I diagnose cars at work and works very well especially if Im trying to fix someone else’s handy work. Let us know what you come up with. Oh and don’t forget the basics check spark, fuel, loose connections? Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Have you tried removing the pedal pro yet, just as a test to eliminate it as a potential cause? I would start putting things back to stock one by one until you figure out who the culprit is. This is how I diagnose cars at work and works very well especially if Im trying to fix someone else’s handy work. Let us know what you come up with. Oh and don’t forget the basics check spark, fuel, loose connections? Good luck
I have not. Unfortunately I work 10+ hour days which leaves little time for much else. I have ordered the clutch masters kit so far. Dunno if I need the throw out bearing. Car only has 7500 miles on it. I did look through the engine bay to make sure I didn't see anything disconnected since it was just serviced at the dealer. No obvious signs of a quick fix so far.
 

·
Registered
2017 124 Classica
Joined
·
132 Posts
If it's going up in RPM without acceleration that's a clear sign of clutch. One thing to look for is the gear shift indicator. Does it change? The gear indicator on the dash for the manual is actually an RPM/Speed calculation, so as one other person reported, a slipping clutch can make it look like it's shifting on its own as the indicator might change.
 

·
Registered
2020 Abarth 124 Brillante White Velleno package with Monza exhaust.
Joined
·
284 Posts
I have not. Unfortunately I work 10+ hour days which leaves little time for much else. I have ordered the clutch masters kit so far. Dunno if I need the throw out bearing. Car only has 7500 miles on it. I did look through the engine bay to make sure I didn't see anything disconnected since it was just serviced at the dealer. No obvious signs of a quick fix so far.
If your in there replace everything! Makes no sense to skimp on a $20 part when the labor is so high. Also put some good fluid in there I love the MT90 from redline but amsoil has some good fluid too. Some people use Ford fluid all are acceptable. Nothing else should ever be put into this trans though! Just the three listed above! This is very important. I am currently replacing a manual trans due to what I believe was caused be incorrect or low quality fluid. Please a couple bucks more a quart for something you only change every thirty thousand miles! Just don’t skimp on fluids. Other than that you should be all good. Let us know how it goes. If we are all wrong at least you will have a set up capable of 400+ HP!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If your in there replace everything! Makes no sense to skimp on a $20 part when the labor is so high. Also put some good fluid in there I love the MT90 from redline but amsoil has some good fluid too. Some people use Ford fluid all are acceptable. Nothing else should ever be put into this trans though! Just the three listed above! This is very important. I am currently replacing a manual trans due to what I believe was caused be incorrect or low quality fluid. Please a couple bucks more a quart for something you only change every thirty thousand miles! Just don’t skimp on fluids. Other than that you should be all good. Let us know how it goes. If we are all wrong at least you will have a set up capable of 400+ HP!
Throw out bearing is unfortunately 13 times that amount at $260.


I know EC website says it's mandatory. I will check with my dealer and performance shop first before buying. Maybe it gets destroyed or compromised somehow upon clutch removal. If it were a $20 bearing I would do it without hesitation. I never wanted to go all out with this car. Not trying to turn a 1.4 turbo into a corvette here. But I did want a fast daily driver that turned heads. My budget is capping out since covid but I have to fix this issue because I don't feel safe driving my 40 minute commute to work and taking my bike is like being at the wrong end of a gun range with all the darn cicadas hitting me. Maybe @Greg wants to put his 2 cents in here?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Are you running an OBD scanner to monitor for any pending codes and/or have you datalogged RPM, boost, and throttle together? Or do you have a boost gauge you can monitor?

Email is absolutely a much better way to contact EC than tagging them on the forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
696 Posts
Throw out bearing is unfortunately 13 times that amount at $260.


I know EC website says it's mandatory. I will check with my dealer and performance shop first before buying. Maybe it gets destroyed or compromised somehow upon clutch removal. If it were a $20 bearing I would do it without hesitation. I never wanted to go all out with this car. Not trying to turn a 1.4 turbo into a corvette here. But I did want a fast daily driver that turned heads. My budget is capping out since covid but I have to fix this issue because I don't feel safe driving my 40 minute commute to work and taking my bike is like being at the wrong end of a gun range with all the darn cicadas hitting me. Maybe @Greg wants to put his 2 cents in here?
I'm a bit confused, is this for a 124 spider? Your link for the bearing is for a 500. I don't know if the Miata will work but I think the one for the 124 is cheaper: 2017-2019 Fiat 124 Spider Clutch Release Bearing 68313855aa | MOPAR Parts Co.
 

·
Registered
2018 Abarth Spider
Joined
·
24 Posts
Hi Walawn; I was reading through your posts and I saw you mentioned you had the car at a dealer just before this issue presented itself. I wonder if the dealer re-flashed your ECU?

Something to consider....
 
  • Like
Reactions: walawn and Arthur

·
Registered
2020 Abarth 124 Brillante White Velleno package with Monza exhaust.
Joined
·
284 Posts
Throw out bearing is unfortunately 13 times that amount at $260.


I know EC website says it's mandatory. I will check with my dealer and performance shop first before buying. Maybe it gets destroyed or compromised somehow upon clutch removal. If it were a $20 bearing I would do it without hesitation. I never wanted to go all out with this car. Not trying to turn a 1.4 turbo into a corvette here. But I did want a fast daily driver that turned heads. My budget is capping out since covid but I have to fix this issue because I don't feel safe driving my 40 minute commute to work and taking my bike is like being at the wrong end of a gun range with all the darn cicadas hitting me. Maybe @Greg wants to put his 2 cents in here?
Omg sorry, I’m used to these being super cheap! Holly $h1t well guess we finally found the most expensive part on the whole car! You can get an engine for that kind of money!
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top