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Discussion Starter #1
What's a valid value when obtaining a compression test? A previous forum mentioned anything over 100 PSI is okay. I ended up cranking for several seconds until I get a maximum number, per the documentation with my test kit (Actron CP7828A).

FYI, the numbers are as follows, starting from the front of the engine: Cyl #1-200 PSI, Cyl #2-225 PSI, Cyl #3-220 PSI, and Cyl #4 195 PSI.

Engine was cold, and I pulled the fuel pump relay when performing the test.

Thinking the results for #1 and #4 was a fluke, I repeated it a second time, getting the same results.

Also attached are pictures of the spark plugs; I installed them when the car was at 27,420 miles. I'm at about 35,200 miles right now. I'm not sure what I'm looking at (good, bad, or ugly); any insight from the group would be greatly appreciated.

If it matters any, I was the one who reported going through a quart of oil every 500 miles. I have yet to clean the AOS per the instructions from NGEN on youtube. I'm on a stock tune, but I installed MaxFire coils, a GFB diverter, a catch can, and a EuroCompulsion V3 air filter.

Regards

John
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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The compression looks fine but the plugs however do not look quite right, especially for 8K miles. What is all the white crusty stuff? Ideally they should be a nice shade of dusty tan/brown all over like what's on the ground strap of a few of those pictures. As for causes, I don't know right off but definitely worth looking into.
 

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Your compression test is good. As long as every cylinder is above 100 PSI and no cylinder varies more than 25% from the others you're OK. You should do a compression test on warm engine.

Your spark plugs tell another tale, however, I suspect that's oil additive residue. I'm not 100% certain, though. If it is, it then you've got oil leaking into the heads because of valve guide issues which is why you are burning so much oil. Another option is that you did not use the correct plugs and they are running too hot. There are some smart folks here and maybe they have other theories.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I'm using the NGK SIKR9A7 from Eurocompulsion that come pre-gapped as a courtesy. That's OEM, yes?

Your compression test is good. As long as every cylinder is above 100 PSI and no cylinder varies more than 25% from the others you're OK. You should do a compression test on warm engine.

Your spark plugs tell another tale, however, I suspect that's oil additive residue. I'm not 100% certain, though. If it is, it then you've got oil leaking into the heads because of valve guide issues which is why you are burning so much oil. Another option is that you did not use the correct plugs and they are running too hot. There are some smart folks here and maybe they have other theories.
 

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I'm using the NGK SIKR9A7 from Eurocompulsion that come pre-gapped as a courtesy. That's OEM, yes?
Yes it is. Do you notice blue exhaust smoke?
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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How long should I let it run before I notice something, good, bad, or otherwise?

Regards,

John
I just pulled my plugs to see how they looked compared to yours. They don't have the white flakiness yours has but your photo could be accentuated with the flash. Your compression test tells us that your valves and rings are good. I asked about the blue smoke. I was talking about blue smoke exiting your tailpipe. If you have that then you are clearly burning oil. If you don't, then maybe you just have a significant oil leak you haven't found. Can you lift your car and get underneath it and take the shields off to do some inspection? Putting a quart in every 500 miles is a problem in my book. In comparison, I might add 1/4 quart every 4,000 miles just to keep it topped off.
 

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Tan colored, ashy deposits indicate oil that is being burned, if the plug heat range is correct. Shark's chart showing black oily deposits reflect excessive oil, thus not burning, entering the cylinder. This will also cause blue smoke out the exhaust on deceleration if valve guides are worn, and especially on initial start up. Blue smoke on acceleration indicates worn oil control rings. I suspect you may have oill entering thru' the intake. Have you checked the turbo intake side for oily accumulations?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was hoping the catch can would mitigate oil in the air intake. There is an oily residue, but nothing that would require me to empty it.

Tan colored, ashy deposits indicate oil that is being burned, if the plug heat range is correct. Shark's chart showing black oily deposits reflect excessive oil, thus not burning, entering the cylinder. This will also cause blue smoke out the exhaust on deceleration if valve guides are worn, and especially on initial start up. Blue smoke on acceleration indicates worn oil control rings. I suspect you may have oill entering thru' the intake. Have you checked the turbo intake side for oily accumulations?
 
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