[Greg]

This is just a quickie post on where you can tap in a boost gauge. I am not saying this is the only place to do it, or the best place, but it's easy and it's where I connect it.

If you are connecting a pnumatic type gauge, this smaller line would go directly to the gauge. If you are using a newer type gauge that uses a boost sensor, then the line would connect to the sensor.

Click the thumbnail to zoom in and make this big enough to read it and see the details. I am NOT the one who normally takes pictures for our instructions, this was the best I could do.

Greg

 

[PureAdrenaline]

Thanks...Greg...hey I want that ignored stuff....

 

[Greg]

Thanks...Greg...hey I want that ignored stuff....

That's the Turbo Encabulator, I don't think many people could handle it.

Greg

 

[PureAdrenaline]

That's the Turbo Encabulator, I don't think many people could handle it.

Greg

I suppose you used your interocitor to design it>

 

[Greg]

I suppose you used your interocitor to design it>

No that's 60's era stuff. We design with "Autodesk" which is pretty standard in the industry. As soon as we get the problems resolved with keeping the spurving bearings in line, we will release this for those who dare try and handle it.

Greg

 

[PureAdrenaline]

no that's 60's era stuff. We design with "autodesk" which is pretty standard in the industry. As soon as we get the problems resolved with keeping the spurving bearings in line, we will release this for those who dare try and handle it.

Greg

lol...

 

[JFernald]

No that's 60's era stuff. We design with "Autodesk" which is pretty standard in the industry. As soon as we get the problems resolved with keeping the spurving bearings in line, we will release this for those who dare try and handle it.

Greg

Don't you just know the Aussies are going to be all over this, claiming they have tried it and it does nothing for performance.:laugh:

 

[JFernald]

That's the Turbo Encabulator, I don't think many people could handle it.

Greg

Just wondering why you are using Gates hoses on your turboencabulator, rather than your own silicone hoses?

 

[Greg]

Don't you just know the Aussies are going to be all over this, claiming they have tried it and it does nothing for performance.:laugh:

I think most Aussies will like it, but if they don't, that's OK.

Greg

 

[Greg]

Just wondering why you are using Gates hoses on your turboencabulator, rather than your own silicone hoses?

Most of the silicone hose we carry is silicone vacuum hose, and it's not suitable and will slowly degrade in this application. The Gates hose has issues as well. It's incredibly difficult to work with and it's total overkill here. It's expensive and really tough to install. It's great as 300psi Semi Truck fuel line (which is actually what it's for) but the typical owner will complain loudly when they try and install it in this application.

We are working on a new type of hose that will hopefully check all the boxes. It needs to look good, last forever, be easy to install and not cost prohibitive. We have test pieces on other cars, so when I am sure that it's working out we will release the turbo encabulator.

Greg

 

[ameridan]

Greg, Thanks for posting the photo! I have a slightly off-topic question. From my blog:

One of the reasons that Fiat chose to select this heavy-duty battery is because of current-drawing motor(s) that may run for up to around 15 minutes after the engine has been stopped and could somewhat deplete a smaller capacity battery. An electric pump insures proper cool-down of the turbo bearings by circulating coolant (or oil?, I’m not sure which) through it after the engine is stopped and, if the coolant temperature is above 223º F, the radiator fan will also run after the (hot) engine is stopped to aid in bringing that temperature down quicker.

What is the pump pushing?

TIA

 

[Scenyx]

Greg,

Which catch can are you using Greg?

Ive just put a post up about fitting one!

Would be great if you could do a little guide on how to fit?

Thanks!

 

[Greg]

Greg, Thanks for posting the photo! I have a slightly off-topic question. From my blog:
Quote:
One of the reasons that Fiat chose to select this heavy-duty battery is because of current-drawing motor(s) that may run for up to around 15 minutes after the engine has been stopped and could somewhat deplete a smaller capacity battery. An electric pump insures proper cool-down of the turbo bearings by circulating coolant (or oil?, I’m not sure which) through it after the engine is stopped and, if the coolant temperature is above 223º F, the radiator fan will also run after the (hot) engine is stopped to aid in bringing that temperature down quicker.
What is the pump pushing?

TIA

Hi ameridan, thanks for that question:

The pump you asked about moves coolant, not oil. It certainly does not require a special heavy battery. It's a very low draw pump and it's on all the US Fiats with this engine, and none of the others have this type of battery. Furthermore, many people have retrofitted mini batteries into 500 Abarths with no issues.

Greg

 

[Greg]

Greg,

Which catch can are you using Greg?

Ive just put a post up about fitting one!

Would be great if you could do a little guide on how to fit?

Thanks!

I did see your post. I'll say this, a catch can in this car is a good idea if it's set up correctly. I have always been amazed at how a tiny amount of oil can make such a mess. The factory air/oil separator works, but in my view it lets too much through, and that oil coats the intake, all the intercooler piping and the intercooler itself. Even a thimble full of oil can spread over a really large area, so reducing the amount of oil that escapes and keeping it in the crankcase is a good idea.

I don't want to talk about the specifics of my kit because it's not done yet, and is still subject to changes. I generally avoid talking about products before they are out of the beta test stage. I will post instructions and hopefully people will buy my kit, but if not, I hope they make their own or buy another, because it's a good upgrade.

I can tell you that if you make your own, there are three key points that are important. First, the catch can needs to be a type that's a secondary air/oil separator, not just a catch can (meaning not an empty can with two hoses attached to it). The inlet and outlet should be higher than the factory separator, and should absolutely positively not add any additional back pressure to the system. If you follow those three rules, you will be fine. Or you could just copy the setup in my picture, which I promise will work. Or....just wait, and I'll release a suitable kit.

Greg

 

[MotoPete]

The inlet and outlet should be higher than the factory separator

Why?!

With this setup it's not going to make an ounce of difference, heck if anything it ought to be slightly lower so that any oil condensation in the hoses drains into the catch can rather than crud up the separator...

 

[sharkcohen]

This is just a quickie post on where you can tap in a boost gauge. I am not saying this is the only place to do it, or the best place, but it's easy and it's where I connect it.

If you are connecting a pnumatic type gauge, this smaller line would go directly to the gauge. If you are using a newer type gauge that uses a boost sensor, then the line would connect to the sensor.

Click the thumbnail to zoom in and make this big enough to read it and see the details. I am NOT the one who normally takes pictures for our instructions, this was the best I could do.

Greg

@Greg, the ends of the OEM line have some strange looking, one time use clamps. Can you tell me how those clamps are removed?

It looks like you used some of your silicone in place of the OEM line. Is your silicone line the same size as what comes with your V4 intake? I cannot tell in the pic, do you have clamps on the ends? I'm guessing that I would want clamps.

Are there any other places that could be tapped that you can suggest? I really wanted to get the CravenSpeed throttle body spacer in there, but that just wasn't going to happen LOL.

 

[Greg]

There is a special tool that can remove those clamps. I don't have it, almost nobody does so for me they are a one time use clamp. If the silicone hose is small enough it doesn't need to be clamped. I can't remember what size I use there, but since I don't leave it on the car for long, I don't really worry about it. For me it's just put in for testing.

Greg

 

[sharkcohen]

There is a special tool that can remove those clamps. I don't have it, almost nobody does so for me they are a one time use clamp. If the silicone hose is small enough it doesn't need to be clamped. I can't remember what size I use there, but since I don't leave it on the car for long, I don't really worry about it. For me it's just put in for testing.

Greg

Check out what my dad has LOL. He even has the clamps. There’s no room around the intake manifold to use this tool to put these clamps on, though. We also figured out how to pop them open. I think the silicone hose I have is small enough to not need a clamp, but we’ll find out.

 

[sharkcohen]

I have ordered this hose tee to help connect my boost gauge. I'll replace the OEM line between the separator and the manifold with a short run of EC silicone that I have left over from my V4 intake install, and I'll have this tee on that line of silicone. I'm going to run a 1/8 NPT compression fitting and nylon line from the tee to the interior, and connect it to the pressure sensor for the gauge with another compression fitting. The nylon line should easily pass through the grommet for the hood release cable.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48718084

I had to order a pack of 10 of these tees. SOOO, if anyone would like one, please let me know. Maybe you could Paypal me the cost of shipping or something.

 

[sharkcohen]

Got my tees.