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I went to take the Spider out for a jaunt today, only to find that the battery was completely dead. Granted, it's been almost two months since I last drove the vehicle, but the battery was so dead that it wouldn't even respond to a jump start. In fact, not so much as an accessory or the key fob will work. 馃槥

I have it on a tender hoping by some miracle it might come back to life. Has anyone else experienced this before?
 

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your battery is not deadjust in a coma. you need it to car boost. Battery tender wont charge it due to voltage is wsy below 12v.
so boost it. keep cables on for 5min do it charges i
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When
your battery is not deadjust in a coma. you need it to car boost. Battery tender wont charge it due to voltage is wsy below 12v.
so boost it. keep cables on for 5min do it charges i
When you say boost it, do mean jump starting it via another vehicle?
 

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Unfortunately....I think you have fallen foul of the "left it too long" syndrum . Go to "Basic Rules of 124 Spider ownership.....some of" and it will explain all. Your battery was probably fine when you started, the brick in the engine may have drained, read the thread, follow procedure and all will be well...Cheers
ron
 

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When

When you say boost it, do mean jump starting it via another vehicle?
yes. leave cables connected 5min so battery be charged and attain 12v and jump start it. then after connect battery tender to fully carge the battery.
 

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These modern/smart chargers are no good with "dead" (hibernating?) batteries, you need an older "dumb" charger that charges come what may, or the "jump lead" approach, to give it enough of an initial boost.
 

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Yes, quite clear that it is both issues here....you will most likely need to charge battery (though test it first) then follow procedure for "The Brick" as suggested. You will not be the only one to have been caught out with this, Best Wishes
 

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Discussion Starter #9
For the hell of it, I left the tender on the Spider overnight, and much to my surprise the indicator light was showing green in the morning- suggesting the battery was fully charged. However, it still won't start. There's no ignition sequence, nor will any accessories come on. I can open the trunk and lock and unlock the doors using the switches - that's it. The ignition button flashes green when I push it, along with two red warning lights, which appear to be the outline of a battery and the key fob.
 

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For the hell of it, I left the tender on the Spider overnight, and much to my surprise the indicator light was showing green in the morning- suggesting the battery was fully charged. However, it still won't start. There's no ignition sequence, nor will any accessories come on. I can open the trunk and lock and unlock the doors using the switches - that's it. The ignition button flashes green when I push it, along with two red warning lights, which appear to be the outline of a battery and the key fob.
Try the General Discussion section....it's still on page one, or, just type it into search above.....Glad to help, JUST BROUGHT IT UP FOR YOU , Cheers
ron
 

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Try the General Discussion section....it's still on page one, or, just type it into search above.....Glad to help, JUST BROUGHT IT UP FOR YOU , Cheers
ron
I found your section... thanks. So, despite the battery appearing to be fully charged now, you're suggesting that I need to fill the "brick" with 10 oz. of oil in order for it to start? Is the vehicle's charging/ignition system designed to automatically disabled when the oil level falls?
 

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Do you own a volt meter? It would be helpful to know the sitting battery voltage.

Even if it is a "brick" issue, I believe the accessories should still work.
 

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Not that anyone here is aware as far as I know.......Guys "Far" more experienced than me and longer term members started finding start up problems back in the early days of 124 Spider ownership, they mostly fell for the flat battery scenario, then when the Spider still wouldn't fire up some bright spark recognised (from previous Multiair engine ownership?) that left standing for any length of time the oil in "The Brick" drains away so The Brick and Crankcase starved of oil refuse tom play. The battery failure reason is beyond me but "guess" that somehow the clever ECU decides that its not allowing the battery to crank as conditions received from the Multiair unit are unhealthy, then...once you feed "The Brick" "it" must tell the ECU that it is good to go and so you crank a few times, the engine coughs a bit anf then you are away. Has not happened to me but someone will tell you exactly how to crank the battery and for how long each time. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not that anyone here is aware as far as I know.......Guys "Far" more experienced than me and longer term members started finding start up problems back in the early days of 124 Spider ownership, they mostly fell for the flat battery scenario, then when the Spider still wouldn't fire up some bright spark recognised (from previous Multiair engine ownership?) that left standing for any length of time the oil in "The Brick" drains away so The Brick and Crankcase starved of oil refuse tom play. The battery failure reason is beyond me but "guess" that somehow the clever ECU decides that its not allowing the battery to crank as conditions received from the Multiair unit are unhealthy, then...once you feed "The Brick" "it" must tell the ECU that it is good to go and so you crank a few times, the engine coughs a bit anf then you are away. Has not happened to me but someone will tell you exactly how to crank the battery and for how long each time. Cheers
Just so I understand, you're suggesting that I add 10 oz of oil to the "brick" as shown in the image.
79690
 

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As mentioned, the vehicle is completely dead.
Completely dead? Than how are the door locks working?
Do you have a volt meter? The sitting battery voltage is important to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Completely dead? Than how are the door locks working?
Do you have a volt meter? The sitting battery voltage is important to know.
Fortunately, the vehicle was not locked, so I was able to gain entry. I don't have a volt meter. But, the battery tender is displaying a green light, which suggests the battery is fully charged. Also, for what it's worth, the key fob was left in the vehicle the whole time it was parked in my garage. Not sure if leaving the key fob in the Spider while is was unlocked for a period of time matters.
 

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Just so I understand, you're suggesting that I add 10 oz of oil to the "brick" as shown in the image.
View attachment 79690
Yes I am, however...I see Bob T is trying to help you also here so it would be good to check everything to do with the battery condition out before you start the oil and crank sequence. Cheers
 

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I appreciate that JD, but without knowing if the battery is charged, or not, or holding a charge or not, starts with battery voltage. The green light might be correct, or it might not.

You can pick up a $10 meter at any parts or hardware store. Very valuable for troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I appreciate that JD, but without knowing if the battery is charged, or not, or holding a charge or not, starts with battery voltage. The green light might be correct, or it might not.

You can pick up a $10 meter at any parts or hardware store. Very valuable for troubleshooting.
Would the fact that the Spider won't respond to a jump-start either mean anything?
 
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