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(This is Part 1. I don't know how long a message post can be, or with how many photos, so I'm breaking this up into a few messages in this thread.)
Today, I changed my 2017 Fiat 124 Spider engine oil and oil filter for the first time. A preamble:
-I am not a mechanic. I'm not trained as a mechanic. This is what I did, it does not mean you should do the same thing. I sincerely hope I did things properly, but if I failed along the line, someone please offer a correction. My experience, and my telling of it, is no substitute for you visiting your Fiat dealer for service work on your car.
-Exercise patience. Remain calm. Take a breath from time to time.
-Take photos of what you disassemble/remove so you know how to put it back together. Make a written list of the things you did, and refer to the list as you put it all back together. If you have access to a factory service manual, please use it. I do not have access to a manual, I did this job by the seat of my pants.
-Give yourself plenty of time. Your first time will not be a 30-minute job. Probably not the 2nd time, either, or ever. Pick a relaxing few hours when you are up to this kind of work.
-There are worse cars out there to change the oil on, but this is my most challenging oil change in 30 years of car ownership. If you aren't up to it, go visit your dealer. I'd not suggest the quicky lube outfits for this one. My hands, or the Fiat dealer.
-Note that your car's owner's manual is of ZERO assistance for the process of changing the engine oil and filter for this car, it only states that you should visit your dealer, period.
Okay, let's get to it.
Have on hand:
-4 qt full synthetic 5w/40 oil, meeting FCA/Chrysler/Mopar MS-12991, I chose Pennzoil 5w/40 Platinum Euro full synthetic, the MS-12991 standard is on the bottle.
-1 oil filter, multiple manufacturers supply them, including your local dealer. I went with the Mann HU713/1X. The filter should include a new O-ring for the oil filter cap- USE IT!
-Metric socket set, including a 27mm (or 1-1/16" SAE) and long extension for the oil filter cap removal. The 27mm is a 1/2" drive, get a 3/8" female to 1/2" male socket adapter if necessary.
-Used oil drain pan capable of holding more than one gallon of oil.
-Lots of rags/paper towels.
-Heavy duty nitrile rubber gloves (no latex, the oil will destroy the latex very fast), safety glasses, etc.
-Method of safely elevating the car, you'll be under it for some time. My ramps are 7" tall, and I'm glad for it. A creeper, or a big sheet of cardboard on the floor, will be helpful while working under there.
NOTE- click on the thumbnail photos AT THE BOTTOM of this posting to see full-screen size images.
After the car is elevated, remove the metal belly pan (photo 1). There are nine 12mm(?) bolts that hold the pan in place, see yellow check marks in the photo. The middle bolt, passenger side (circled), unscrew this one only about half way. The pan is slotted at this bolt to assist re-installation of the pan, to get other bolts started.

For some reason, I was under the impression that the oil pan/sump drain plug bolt faces the front of the car. I was surprised to find the drain plug bolt (circled, photo 2) faces the rear of the car. So, this *may* mean that front-wheels-only elevation of the car will result in full draining of the pan. (I've built wood ramps the length of the car, providing a level lift for the car, and now I may not need them for the Spider. That's okay, because they are necessary for my other car.) I did not have any oil drain on any other car parts under the car, but just in case, wrap aluminum foil around parts that may be in the line of drainage, if needed.

Photo 3, as you pull out the drain plug bolt (13mm socket, if I recall), note the rubber gasket on the plug and if needed re-position it back up against the head of the plug bolt. Mine came unthreaded a few turns. There was no metal crush washer. I do not know if this rubber gasket is a part that needs routine replacement, check with your dealer parts dept. I will get extras before my next oil change. There is no magnetic tip on this drain plug bolt.

The factory put a green mark on the washer-head of the drain plug bolt (photo 4) and on the mating surface of the oil pan/sump drain hole, probably a QC torque check from manufacturing. I used these marks to assure I had the plug tightened to what the factory tightened them, I did not use a torque wrench this time. (I don't know the torque setting for the drain plug bolt.) BUT, after draining the oil, do not immediately reinsert the drain plug bolt. I left it out, with the drain pan below, knowing more oil would flow out when loosening the filter (it will, and it did).

Ending this message, will reply starting Part 2 with more text and photos.
Steve.
Today, I changed my 2017 Fiat 124 Spider engine oil and oil filter for the first time. A preamble:
-I am not a mechanic. I'm not trained as a mechanic. This is what I did, it does not mean you should do the same thing. I sincerely hope I did things properly, but if I failed along the line, someone please offer a correction. My experience, and my telling of it, is no substitute for you visiting your Fiat dealer for service work on your car.
-Exercise patience. Remain calm. Take a breath from time to time.
-Take photos of what you disassemble/remove so you know how to put it back together. Make a written list of the things you did, and refer to the list as you put it all back together. If you have access to a factory service manual, please use it. I do not have access to a manual, I did this job by the seat of my pants.
-Give yourself plenty of time. Your first time will not be a 30-minute job. Probably not the 2nd time, either, or ever. Pick a relaxing few hours when you are up to this kind of work.
-There are worse cars out there to change the oil on, but this is my most challenging oil change in 30 years of car ownership. If you aren't up to it, go visit your dealer. I'd not suggest the quicky lube outfits for this one. My hands, or the Fiat dealer.
-Note that your car's owner's manual is of ZERO assistance for the process of changing the engine oil and filter for this car, it only states that you should visit your dealer, period.
Okay, let's get to it.
Have on hand:
-4 qt full synthetic 5w/40 oil, meeting FCA/Chrysler/Mopar MS-12991, I chose Pennzoil 5w/40 Platinum Euro full synthetic, the MS-12991 standard is on the bottle.
-1 oil filter, multiple manufacturers supply them, including your local dealer. I went with the Mann HU713/1X. The filter should include a new O-ring for the oil filter cap- USE IT!
-Metric socket set, including a 27mm (or 1-1/16" SAE) and long extension for the oil filter cap removal. The 27mm is a 1/2" drive, get a 3/8" female to 1/2" male socket adapter if necessary.
-Used oil drain pan capable of holding more than one gallon of oil.
-Lots of rags/paper towels.
-Heavy duty nitrile rubber gloves (no latex, the oil will destroy the latex very fast), safety glasses, etc.
-Method of safely elevating the car, you'll be under it for some time. My ramps are 7" tall, and I'm glad for it. A creeper, or a big sheet of cardboard on the floor, will be helpful while working under there.
NOTE- click on the thumbnail photos AT THE BOTTOM of this posting to see full-screen size images.
After the car is elevated, remove the metal belly pan (photo 1). There are nine 12mm(?) bolts that hold the pan in place, see yellow check marks in the photo. The middle bolt, passenger side (circled), unscrew this one only about half way. The pan is slotted at this bolt to assist re-installation of the pan, to get other bolts started.
For some reason, I was under the impression that the oil pan/sump drain plug bolt faces the front of the car. I was surprised to find the drain plug bolt (circled, photo 2) faces the rear of the car. So, this *may* mean that front-wheels-only elevation of the car will result in full draining of the pan. (I've built wood ramps the length of the car, providing a level lift for the car, and now I may not need them for the Spider. That's okay, because they are necessary for my other car.) I did not have any oil drain on any other car parts under the car, but just in case, wrap aluminum foil around parts that may be in the line of drainage, if needed.
Photo 3, as you pull out the drain plug bolt (13mm socket, if I recall), note the rubber gasket on the plug and if needed re-position it back up against the head of the plug bolt. Mine came unthreaded a few turns. There was no metal crush washer. I do not know if this rubber gasket is a part that needs routine replacement, check with your dealer parts dept. I will get extras before my next oil change. There is no magnetic tip on this drain plug bolt.
The factory put a green mark on the washer-head of the drain plug bolt (photo 4) and on the mating surface of the oil pan/sump drain hole, probably a QC torque check from manufacturing. I used these marks to assure I had the plug tightened to what the factory tightened them, I did not use a torque wrench this time. (I don't know the torque setting for the drain plug bolt.) BUT, after draining the oil, do not immediately reinsert the drain plug bolt. I left it out, with the drain pan below, knowing more oil would flow out when loosening the filter (it will, and it did).
Ending this message, will reply starting Part 2 with more text and photos.
Steve.
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