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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK fellows, did three videos on the following topics.

Removing the trunk liners.
Dynamating the trunk, all four wheel wells, and undercoating wheel wells.
How to save your pop rivets... contrary to the video, they are NOT Sacrificial..but can be reused.

I AM NOT Cecil B. DeMille, so my video camera skills are extremely lacking... but you get the picture.

Im also attaching some pictures, just in case the video makes you vomit or have Vertigo... :eek:

Vid #1:

Vid # 2:

Vid # 3:

any questions, i would be happy to answer for you. YES IT MAKES A HUGE Difference in Noise Reduction.....Especially in the DOORS.....
 

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I appreciate your efforts, but really wish you would have asked. Dynamat is far from the best (or most affordable) tool for treating the doors. A 25% coverage of vibration deadener is all that's needed for deadening flat panels. It's not at all needed for curved panel areas with curves over 45 degrees. It adds a lot of unnecessary weight.

That said, as I noted, I appreciate your efforts. Thanks for posting all of this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The weight was offset by the removal of

I appreciate your efforts, but really wish you would have asked. Dynamat is far from the best (or most affordable) tool for treating the doors. A 25% coverage of vibration deadener is all that's needed for deadening flat panels. It's not at all needed for curved panel areas with curves over 45 degrees. It adds a lot of unnecessary weight.

That said, as I noted, I appreciate your efforts. Thanks for posting all of this.
The 30 pound muffler. I am not a believer or never will be of the 25% rules on vibration deadened. I worked with sound engineers in New Orleans on the Federal Sound mitigation and insulation program for New Orleans International Airport for the last 20 years, and I can tell you for a fact, that we tried and experimented with all kinds of ratios on deadening flat panels (walls, roofs, ceiling, doors, etc..) and the houses with the most significant reduction in noise, were the houses with 80% coverage.

Now my car is not as quiet as a Mercedes, but I just test drove a new Jaguar F type this last weekend, and my little Fiat was at least as quite as it was...
I know you are some type of super duper sound engineer, but I can tell you that this car is a sHELL of a lot quieter, and I can prove it. Before I put in the Dynamat, I ran it down the toll road with a Sound measuring app on my I pad. With the top up, A/C on and my beautiful wife in the seat ( who's picture was removed from this forum...but we won't get into that!)... we were measuring 91 DB at 70 MPH. We will be recreating that test again sometime this week and I will post the results.
Thanks
Not Sure.:):)
 

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The 30 pound muffler. I am not a believer or never will be of the 25% rules on vibration deadened. I worked with sound engineers in New Orleans on the Federal Sound mitigation and insulation program for New Orleans International Airport for the last 20 years, and I can tell you for a fact, that we tried and experimented with all kinds of ratios on deadening flat panels (walls, roofs, ceiling, doors, etc..) and the houses with the most significant reduction in noise, were the houses with 80% coverage.

Now my car is not as quiet as a Mercedes, but I just test drove a new Jaguar F type this last weekend, and my little Fiat was at least as quite as it was...
I know you are some type of super duper sound engineer, but I can tell you that this car is a sHELL of a lot quieter, and I can prove it. Before I put in the Dynamat, I ran it down the toll road with a Sound measuring app on my I pad. With the top up, A/C on and my beautiful wife in the seat ( who's picture was removed from this forum...but we won't get into that!)... we were measuring 91 DB at 70 MPH. We will be recreating that test again sometime this week and I will post the results.
Thanks
Not Sure.:):)
I'm sure it is quiet, since you reduced vibrations. Don't get me wrong, I'm not at all implying that what you did was worthless or that it didn't make a difference. What I'm saying is, to deaden vibrations in a vehicle, all that's needed is a 25% coverage of a good vibration deadener. I'm not saying you could have done it with Dynamat; I'm saying you could have done it with a different product and the guy I usually recommend spent many years microphone testing vibration deadeners with various coverage areas and thicknesses before developing his own that is in fact effective at 25% coverage. Blocking sound in areas that are not air-tight would require a different product. I have found that the best results are achieved when each specific acoustic challenge is addressed with purpose built products as opposed to an all-in-one 100% peel n stick product. The difference could be mostly summarized in cost and weight. You may not be concerned with that.

I'm looking forward to the results of your testing, and again, please don't get me wrong, I truly do appreciate that you documented your process for others to follow.
 

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Great job. Sound test will be interesting. How much weight was the Dynamat Approx. And did you find the extra weight helped the handling?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Net weight was only 15 pounds if..

Great job. Sound test will be interesting. How much weight was the Dynamat Approx. And did you find the extra weight helped the handling?
You use the whole box...which I did. I removed my muffler, which dropped approx 30 pounds, so net change was approx. 15 pounds. I can't answer about handling, but I can say that it feels and sounds a little more "sturdy "... meaning going over railroad crossings, bumps, and high speed driving on the Texas 90 MPH toll roads, is a lot quieter...
I should be able to put up the sound test some time this week.
Here is the link with the product I used:

https://www.amazon.com/Dynamat-10455-Self-Adhesive-Deadener-Xtreme/dp/B00020CB2S

Not Sure
 

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My Lusso is a noisy car for sure. So much knocking around when I'm going over bumps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Shark...you are right..maybe

My Lusso is a noisy car for sure. So much knocking around when I'm going over bumps.
You should just do the trunk pan, like Xtream says, with just the small Dynamat speaker kit, if that will cover it, and see what difference it makes. That trunk pan sounds like am empty 55 gallon drum...those pop rivets on the trunk pan are super easy to remove...
 

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If your goal is to deaden vibrations, here's what I'd recommend using:

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld-tiles™

Careful, you can cut yourself on that aluminum, and once the butyl rubber sticks and sets for a day, it will probably never come off again, but boy does it work. It's cheap, effective, and if you follow the 25% coverage rule, it doesn't add much weight. I've worked with Don for years and he's very helpful when it comes to addressing specific acoustic challenges.
 

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We use this stuff in our Alfa GTA-R builds and it really quietens them down. There's a superlight version which is lighter than the normal Dynamet which we used it in the car tested by Top Gear recently (thread here - http://www.124spider.org/forum/16-off-topic-discussion/18706-top-gear-tested-our-car.html)

Note that Chris can still be heard quite easily even though he isn't shouting and he's driving what amounts to a historic race car at full stack on a race track.

It's impressive the way it deadens the sound of panels drumming, just by fitting "strategic" pads of it in the right places!
 

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If your goal is to deaden vibrations, here's what I'd recommend using:

https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld-tiles™

Careful, you can cut yourself on that aluminum, and once the butyl rubber sticks and sets for a day, it will probably never come off again, but boy does it work. It's cheap, effective, and if you follow the 25% coverage rule, it doesn't add much weight. I've worked with Don for years and he's very helpful when it comes to addressing specific acoustic challenges.
Have to agree with this. I’ve worked with Don once and the experience was top notch. Very quick to respond to questions and I never felt like he didn’t have my best interest in mind. If he thought I would be wasting my money he told me rather than screwing me over.

I worked in a car audio shop about 15 years ago and all we sold was dynamat. It was expensive but worked. That said, over the years I learned that there were better alternatives for the same price or cheaper. I had a mustang around that time that I used dynamat in and it worked like a charm.
 

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Did you make a video of the door panel removal and refitting?
 

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OK fellows, did three videos on the following topics.

Removing the trunk liners.
Dynamating the trunk, all four wheel wells, and undercoating wheel wells.
How to save your pop rivets... contrary to the video, they are NOT Sacrificial..but can be reused.

I AM NOT Cecil B. DeMille, so my video camera skills are extremely lacking... but you get the picture.

Im also attaching some pictures, just in case the video makes you vomit or have Vertigo... :eek:

Vid #1:

Vid # 2:

Vid # 3:

any questions, i would be happy to answer for you. YES IT MAKES A HUGE Difference in Noise Reduction.....Especially in the DOORS.....
All 3 video links come up as "not available". Very interested to see the videos on how to remove the door panels as I would also like to upgrade my speaker system.
 

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I am just about to fit new speakers. I note you have ‘deadened’ the inside of the exterior panel, but not the panel facing you when you take the card off (I hope I explained that OK). Why is that, I saw on some other forums, people careful deadening that panel too, by cutting a template and so on. I suspect you have to be careful around causing problems when refitting the door card, but I am curious.
 

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All 3 video links come up as "not available". Very interested to see the videos on how to remove the door panels as I would also like to upgrade my speaker system.
Yup, dead links as the videos are no longer on YouTube for whatever reason...

But for a "how to" on how to remove your door panels, just search for a very recent post by TX_Bandit. His was about replacing the covering on the panels with Alcantara, but it gives you a very, very thorough photo guide of how to remove the panels. Here's a link to it: How to Reupholster Your Door Inserts
 

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Crutchfield emailed the instructions to fit the speakers that I have just bought, they are attached (I hope that doesn’t infringe anything). They are accurate apart from one thing, the door pull picture is an older car, but they are still behind the door pull, you just pry off the silver trim on ‘our‘ door pull. It looks like a 5 minute job. I eventually decided on the Polk DB652 (as opposed to the JBL GTO620), they were a better match for the Fiat system, got great user reviews and were decidedly better value. I’ll leave the existing tweeters in place. As a layman I wonder how my new speakers will get on with the factory tweeters, report to follow when I have fitted them.
 

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I stripped the doors down, just a note to take care prising the two door cover bezels off, I have ‘lost’ one off the small catches on the driver side, it snapped. It will go back OK I think, but take care (that 10 cent piece of plastic is $44 on the Mopar website!). Anyway, what sits in the speaker recess is the nastiest, cheapest item of sound equipment I may ever have seen, shame on you Fiat! I am amazed any decent sound comes out of it at all. Anyway, I got a substantial amount of sound deadening into the door cavity. Just awaiting the new speakers for fitting.
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