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Hi,
I take possession of my manual spider on Thursday and was wondering if anyone has advice/knowledge of the recommended break-in period for the engine. You know, keep it under X rpm for X kilometers.
Thanks,
Alex
 

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hi. I didnt have much to go on, so I just tried to follow the guideline per the owners manual.
US English version is here: http://www.fiatusa.com/en/owners/manuals/index.html

From Page 178:
Engine Break-In Recommendation
No special break-in is necessary, but a few precautions in the first 620 miles (1000 km) may add to the performance, economy, and life of the vehicle:
  • Do not race the engine.
  • Do not maintain one constant speed, either slow or fast, for a long period of time.
  • Do not drive constantly at full-throttle or high engine rpm for extended periods of time.
  • Avoid unnecessary hard stops.
  • Avoid full-throttle starts.
Congrats on your new 1-2-4 Spider!!!
 

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I dread the first oil change.. The filter is in a tough place according to the video I watch of a 500 Abarth.
Looks more accessible than on the 500. Not a piece of cake, but easier than the 500. I don't know about underneath the car -- taking off the splash pan, and where to put the jack. I haven't looked at that.
 

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620 miles for the break in,when is the first service required and what is the warranty coverage
The service light is on at 3500 miles, but not for oil change, so I'm not sure what for. Maybe they want the dealer to check the cars after a few thousand miles.
On my 500 the oil change light did not come on until after 8000 miles, but it was a non-turbo.
 

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This is a bit tangent, but still relevant. Has anyone considered vacuum oil removal? You don't need to get under the car. After experiencing a $950 oil change on my Miata I'm considering it. The goofball at the shop (not jerky-lube) cross-threaded the drain plug and (of course) didn't tell anyone. Maybe he didn't even know. It wasn't possible to do a repair despite the kits that are available. I located a used one from an MSM that needed to have the return port welded up, but there was no savings on the labor.
So avoiding the hassle of getting under the car is an improvement in the task. AFAIK, there are no issues with old oil remaining behind. Boat owners have been doing it for ages.
 

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This is a bit tangent, but still relevant. Has anyone considered vacuum oil removal? You don't need to get under the car. After experiencing a $950 oil change on my Miata I'm considering it. The goofball at the shop (not jerky-lube) cross-threaded the drain plug and (of course) didn't tell anyone. Maybe he didn't even know. It wasn't possible to do a repair despite the kits that are available. I located a used one from an MSM that needed to have the return port welded up, but there was no savings on the labor.
So avoiding the hassle of getting under the car is an improvement in the task. AFAIK, there are no issues with old oil remaining behind. Boat owners have been doing it for ages.
The issue with that procedure is that it does not replace the filter. And if you don't replace the filter, your engine life will suffer. Also, draining flushes out the crap in the pan. Vacuuming won't do that, and those contaminants will be picked back up in the new oil. The only way to offset that problem is to change your oil a not more frequently.

John
 

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it is way too hard to break this car in properly. have to keep reminding myself to take it easy until the break in period is over. just want to whip this little sucker around on back roads.
 

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I'm at 592 miles right now. 8 miles to the end of the factory recommended break in period! WooHoo! I have an oil filter and 4 quarts of Penzoil 5w/40 waiting to go for the first oil change. I'm trying to decide whether to change it at 1000 miles or wait until just before I put her away for the winter in a couple of weeks.
 

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I'm in the "take it easy for the first 200 miles (so you don't break a ring) and then drive it like you stole it" camp.
 
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