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Discussion Starter #1
I don't know how I possible messed up this simple installation on my 2017 124 Abarth. But, I have a feeling that I did mess it up somehow.

My 124 spider has EC Phase 1 tune W/ P&B (Pops and bangs) and haven't done anything else other than brakes and pad upgrade. I read that DV+ helps with the boost loss in between the gear shift, which I really wanted to get rid of. So I finally got it from EC website and installed it with the installation video. Very simple process and I was excited. After putting the DV+ in the car, things started to act little weird.

At first, everything was fine. Car drove fine and P&B still worked until 10 seconds into driving the car. All the sudden Engine Check light came up and I instantly felt the loss of power in every RPM. Usually the boost comes in around 2.5k to 3k RPM but it felt like a N/A Engine.

I've done some boost leak research on this forum and most of the solutions don't seem to help my situation. I've checked BOV hose, tightened the bolts, filled up the coolant and such.

I took the DV+ off and kind of took the same steps again to assemble it. I bolted it in the car for the second time and drove it again. First, I was happy that the boost came back but not until long, it lost the power again.

I don't have the obd2 reader to see what the check engine light is about. Anyone have any idea what I should do to fix this problem? Thanks!
 

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I don't have the obd2 reader to see what the check engine light is about. Anyone have any idea what I should do to fix this problem? Thanks!
I’d suggest getting an ODB2 adapter, they are $20+ on Amazon, Torque app (free version is sufficient) on your phone, and read out the code. One, it is really hard and involves too much guesswork to diagnose without the code. Two, it will pay for it over time, esp. if you mod/tune the car, which seems to be the case.

HTH, SL
 

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I’d suggest getting an ODB2 adapter, they are $20+ on Amazon, Torque app (free version is sufficient) on your phone, and read out the code. One, it is really hard and involves too much guesswork to diagnose without the code. Two, it will pay for it over time, esp. if you mod/tune the car, which seems to be the case.

HTH, SL
I've been delaying buying it and probably should've bought it already lol Thanks for the suggestion.
 

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I'm assuming you checked the electrical connection to the solenoid on the diverter. It can cause a CEL if it's not fully and securely seated.
 
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Yes, I've also read that somewhere so I checked it as well. Thank you
 

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Ooh boy, I'm about to install this on my 2017 124A tomorrow. Hmmm may wait a minute. Hope you get it sorted. Let us know?
 

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Hi, Just read your thread and the most obvious stuff has been said.....That electrical connection, must be fully connected, two things......Did you use the new stronger spring supplied with kit and assemble properly and did you very lightly apply a very thin touch of light oil to that brass piston before assembly ? Other than that you may have bought the only faulty DV+ unit reported here so far.......
Not suggesting this, however....A worn Wastegate Actuator would cause engine warning light, turbo not producing boost and a dramatic drop in fuel efficiency, so as you experienced normal driving conditions once you refitted the original unit...It is not that ! Suggest do everything once more and double check each part and position in assembly and if the symptoms re appear then consider returning the new DV+ as faulty (that brass piston has an extremely close engineering tolerance), drive the original set up. You may have to have the engine light reset anyway so buying an OBD 11 is always a good idea. Best Wishes...and keep the faith !! Cheers
ron
 

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There's actually one other thing that might be an issue. There are some counterfeit GFB DV+ units out there...mostly on eBay. You can tell the fake units from the genuine by the packaging and build quality. The genuine DV+ from GFB has a two-part package. There is an outer box, and then an inner package. The fake ones only have a single box, it's flimsy and has no outer sleeve. The protective foam packaging on the real units is firm and dense. the stuff in the knockoffs is lighter and more "crumbly". Also the printing on the fake unit boxes is more "yellowish" while that on the real ones is more orange appearing.The build quality on the fakes is also telling...it's much cruder, and the piston tolerances are not nearly as good as the real ones. It's pretty unlikely you got a fake unit, but not a zero chance. Just thought I'd mention it. Here's a short video on how tell the good ones from the fakes. And another.
 
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There's actually one other thing that might be an issue. There are some counterfeit GFB DV+ units out there...mostly on eBay. You can tell the fake units from the genuine by the packaging and build quality. The genuine DV+ from GFB has a two-part package. There is an outer box, and then an inner package. The fake ones only have a single box, it's flimsy and has no outer sleeve. The protective foam packaging on the real units is firm and dense. the stuff in the knockoffs is lighter and more "crumbly". Also the printing on the fake unit boxes is more "yellowish" while that on the real ones is more orange appearing.The build quality on the fakes is also telling...it's much cruder, and the piston tolerances are not nearly as good as the real ones. It's pretty unlikely you got a fake unit, but not a zero chance. Just thought I'd mention it. Here's a short video on how tell the good ones from the fakes.
Well I never knew that......Is nothing sacred !!
 
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Thank you all for commenting on this post, I got the reader and it says p2261 Turbocharger/Supercharger bypass vale "A" - Mechanical. I've done more research on this code and I read a manual saying when this code shows, take the main spring off that's with the brass piston. Does that sound familiar to anyone here?
 

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Hi, Just read your thread and the most obvious stuff has been said.....That electrical connection, must be fully connected, two things......Did you use the new stronger spring supplied with kit and assemble properly and did you very lightly apply a very thin touch of light oil to that brass piston before assembly ? Other than that you may have bought the only faulty DV+ unit reported here so far.......
Not suggesting this, however....A worn Wastegate Actuator would cause engine warning light, turbo not producing boost and a dramatic drop in fuel efficiency, so as you experienced normal driving conditions once you refitted the original unit...It is not that ! Suggest do everything once more and double check each part and position in assembly and if the symptoms re appear then consider returning the new DV+ as faulty (that brass piston has an extremely close engineering tolerance), drive the original set up. You may have to have the engine light reset anyway so buying an OBD 11 is always a good idea. Best Wishes...and keep the faith !! Cheers
ron
Thanks for all the suggestions. Yeah, I assembled that thing twice the day I installed it. I used the springs that it came with and applied the engine oil in the piston. When I press it in, it comes back out immediately. I am not sure if the DV is supposed to be still super hot after 5 hours of cooling period, but it was still pretty hot when I tried to re-assemble it.

My car only has 13k on it and I'm not sure if it will be a worn actuator issue. I will check on it when I can though.

Code came back with p2261 and Manual suggests that I take the main spring out. I'm not sure if that's related with boost loss.
 

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It can be. The result with the main piston spring off, is that the valve will either be fully open or fully closed, just the way the stock valve operates. With the main piston spring installed, the valve opens and closes progressively. A number of folks in the Audi forums have commented about this issue, but I haven't seen any comments about this on this forum. I'm running with the main spring installed, as are others here. Could be the stock part of your valve itself is worn, or maybe the o-rings aren't seated fully. There's no harm in running with the main spring off, but you lose some of the benefits of the upgrade. GFB themselves talk about both options in their installation instructions.
 

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I don't know how I possible messed up this simple installation on my 2017 124 Abarth. But, I have a feeling that I did mess it up somehow.

My 124 spider has EC Phase 1 tune W/ P&B (Pops and bangs) and haven't done anything else other than brakes and pad upgrade. I read that DV+ helps with the boost loss in between the gear shift, which I really wanted to get rid of. So I finally got it from EC website and installed it with the installation video. Very simple process and I was excited. After putting the DV+ in the car, things started to act little weird.

At first, everything was fine. Car drove fine and P&B still worked until 10 seconds into driving the car. All the sudden Engine Check light came up and I instantly felt the loss of power in every RPM. Usually the boost comes in around 2.5k to 3k RPM but it felt like a N/A Engine.

I've done some boost leak research on this forum and most of the solutions don't seem to help my situation. I've checked BOV hose, tightened the bolts, filled up the coolant and such.

I took the DV+ off and kind of took the same steps again to assemble it. I bolted it in the car for the second time and drove it again. First, I was happy that the boost came back but not until long, it lost the power again.

I don't have the obd2 reader to see what the check engine light is about. Anyone have any idea what I should do to fix this problem? Thanks!
You probably did not mess up, installation manual speaks about possibility of your engine software thinking the valve is bad because it is no longer an on/off situation. In such a case you just remove the spring in the brass valve, downside is that if you remove the spring it will just function in the same way as the original on/off and you won't have the benefits you were seeking.

Other possibilities: a counterfeit product or not lubricating the brass valve on installation causing it not to move fluently or the brass valve was dropped and the form changed making it not fit correctly in the housing
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE 2

I removed the spring out to see if it will solve the p2261 code. I didn't drive for awhile to see if the code will be removed but I am still struggling with boost leak. I've removed the dv+ again, went through the assembly and I even checked the Valve and O-ring. Went around the street without the main spring and with the spring. I feel no difference between them. Boost is still super low and car is as slow as it can be. My next guess is the waste gate and actuator. I highly doubt that they are worn just because boost leak happened as soon as I put the DV+ in my car.
 

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Did you clear the code before doing that?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Did you clear the code before doing that?
I've been trying to clear it this morning but I haven't been able to figure it out. I imagine it has to do with waste gate stuck somewhere meaning DV+ is stuck...
 

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Any chance of reassembling the old unit ? Without that heavier spring your piston is either in or out so pointless having the DV+ fitted. At least with the old unit in place you should be able to remove code and drive normally, I only mention the Wastegate Actuator failure signs to let you know what they are, if your problems only started when fitting the DV+, stands to reason that it cannot be the actuator I would think, but the DV+ itself. AnClar mentioned the dodgy copy DV+ units on offer...have you eliminated that idea ? The brass piston itself could just be a faulty part that has the incorrect technical tolerance, so you could return the unit and request replacement / refund. Cheers
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Any chance of reassembling the old unit ?
Unfortunately my OEM part broke so i can't even put it back. it does say it's very fragile... I contacted EC to see what are my options are.
 

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I agree with Brexit..... the probability of a wastegate failure at exactly the same time as a DV+ replacement is inconceivable. I'd check for freedom of movement of the piston. If I were a betting man I'd plump for the electrical connection..... but then again, I'm not a betting man !
 
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