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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone, so I've first had this issue a month ago, the workshop told me to change the multiair module and the spark plugs, They did it and yesterday I've got exactly the same issue. The engine doesn't want to turn on. So I've decided to take a syringe fill up with oil, and inject it directly on the little ball (picture 2). Then I've disconnected the oil pump fuse and it turned on ! so I'm here asking if someone know this issue, and what can I do to get 100% get rid off.

Thank you very much
(you can look at the problem here) :


87306
 

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Hi a couple of basic questions for you, and they may seem strange...Key Fob batteries....Have you replaced BOTH with the CORRECT battery recently? What is your usage of your Spider....Daily driver / Weekend Love Mobile ./ Christmas and Birthdays only ? The thing is...if you use your Spider regularly and your Key Fob batteries are good then the 10 oz of oil in, "The Brick" is NOT required as the oil is still there (you may even overfill oil).
So, depending on the above being fine....Coil Packs and Spark plugs.....next check for codes using an OBD tool which should tell you what and which item is failing. I would check all this out before going any further, have a look at thread, "124 Spider Basic Ownership Rules...some of". CORRECT Plugs should be changed every 3/4 years max.
Correct OIL...Soooo Important, What oil are you using ? Has the oil and filter been changed ? Cheers
ron
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi a couple of basic questions for you, and they may seem strange...Key Fob batteries....Have you replaced BOTH with the CORRECT battery recently? What is your usage of your Spider....Daily driver / Weekend Love Mobile ./ Christmas and Birthdays only ? The thing is...if you use your Spider regularly and your Key Fob batteries are good then the 10 oz of oil in, "The Brick" is NOT required as the oil is still there (you may even overfill oil).
So, depending on the above being fine....Coil Packs and Spark plugs.....next check for codes using an OBD tool which should tell you what and which item is failing. I would check all this out before going any further, have a look at thread, "124 Spider Basic Ownership Rules...some of". CORRECT Plugs should be changed every 3/4 years max.
Correct OIL...Soooo Important, What oil are you using ? Has the oil and filter been changed ? Cheers
ron
hi, key fob batteries are ok. It is my daily, what do you mean with "the brick" ?? and I've already checked the oil and it is not too low neither too much.
Then the spark plugs are new (This is what the workshop said). and the coil packs I think I'm going to take the alfa rome 4C one !
For the obd, the default codes shown are 1524 and P1523.
Last of all, I use ENI 5w40 oil, the oil has been changed in july. Thank you for your time !
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Hi again..."The Brick" fully explained in the "124 Spider Basic Ownership Rules...some of".
The codes I have are...P0523....Engine Oil Pressure SENSOR/ Switch High Voltage.
P0524...Engine Oil Pressure Too Low.

A SENSOR failure.. Now then...Inside "The Brick" the assembly allows the valves to open and close individually at variable times as its a VVT-i engine (Variable Valve Timing Intelligence...."IF" your codes are the same as I am suggesting then I would return to your garage...Are you still under Warranty ? as an internal engine sensor failure would be a big and expensive job I think......... What we could do with NOW is somebody with the correct drawings to confirm or point out that there is an EXTERNAL sensor which would make it straight forward.
Type into Google "21stCentury 124 Spider" and up should come a Brilliant website with directory that will take you to any such diagrams....Best I can Do...Good Luck and Cheers
ron
Hope I am wrong and its just a dodgy main fuse....

ENGINE OIL....I see you use 5w-40. The engine oil used in "The Brick" so the MultiAir engine is "VITAL" to how the engine operates, so....Which Brand of Engine Oil ? as cheap stuff is as bad as wrong grade. How often has the oil (and filter) been changed ? as ANNUALLY or Regularly depending on mileage is very important.
Our site "Admimistrator"...XtremeRevolution....you could message and he may be able to advise Best Oil in your country.
 

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So, the codes are definately listed as being tied to the solenoid system, but I can only find one solenoid listed in the service manuals I've got (service and electrical manuals). That's the wastegate solenoid, which is item #1 in the illustration above. I searched for another that might be attached to the starter, but I'm not seeing any reference to any other solenoid. I'll confess my mechanical ignorance and ask if that makes sense? I was expecting to find something listed with the starter assembly, but nope.... no mention of any other solenoids. I'm baffled.

So.... if this is the culprit, the part number is 68119600AA, replacing part number 4892991AA. Now that could be MOPAR just releasing the part with a different number, OR, it could be indicating there was a problem with the original component and it's now been superceded by a better one. Here's a link to a MOPAR online store that shows the item I'm describing... and I've confirmed it's appropriate for our generation of the 124 Spider. 2012-2019 Fiat Waste Gate Solenoid 68119600AA | Mopar Estores

If there's another solenoid in the engine bay that I should be able to locate, someone tell me where to look and I'll do my best to find it in the manuals... but this is all I can find after an hour of digging.
 
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Hi again.....It looks like both CDPond and I are leaning towards the same area and that's about as good as it gets....PLEASE respond here about warranty position and your garage report. Great input Cal, Cheers
ron
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
View attachment 87318

So, the codes are definately listed as being tied to the solenoid system, but I can only find one solenoid listed in the service manuals I've got (service and electrical manuals). That's the wastegate solenoid, which is item #1 in the illustration above. I searched for another that might be attached to the starter, but I'm not seeing any reference to any other solenoid. I'll confess my mechanical ignorance and ask if that makes sense? I was expecting to find something listed with the starter assembly, but nope.... no mention of any other solenoids. I'm baffled.

So.... if this is the culprit, the part number is 68119600AA, replacing part number 4892991AA. Now that could be MOPAR just releasing the part with a different number, OR, it could be indicating there was a problem with the original component and it's now been superceded by a better one. Here's a link to a MOPAR online store that shows the item I'm describing... and I've confirmed it's appropriate for our generation of the 124 Spider. 2012-2019 Fiat Waste Gate Solenoid 68119600AA | Mopar Estores

If there's another solenoid in the engine bay that I should be able to locate, someone tell me where to look and I'll do my best to find it in the manuals... but this is all I can find after an hour of digging.
Hello Ron and CDPond, first of all thank you so much for your time ! They I’ve sent this to the garage and they told me that the issues your are telling me are more of a turbo
problem, but mine is an oil pressure problem. The multiair module shut off and doesn’t want to restart.
Now I’ve made through by injecting oil directly with a syringe and disconnecting and reconnecting the oil pump fuse.
But I don’t know why the module keep defusing itself…

But thank you. You are very kind !

best regards

Alessandro.
 

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Hi, I'm thinking maybe the next step here is to attach an oil pressure gauge (where the oil pressure sender is), and monitor real time oil pressure as you crank the engine over. The idea here is to see if the oil pump is working at all, at crank speed oil pressure will be minimal but at least you should be able to confirm that the oil.pump is, or is not, working. There is another thread here "Multi -Air Prime Spring Broken" where the real issue was a bad oil pump. Something to check - this may not resolve your DTC's*, I can look into that tonight, it is 8:45 AM EST here now, so it'll be another 12 hours or so. Good Luck,. Best, s. * It is possible to have 2 different issues at the same time, I've seen it many times before. Check engine light and a code set because some item went bad, but not related whatsoever to a no start or whatever because something else was wrong too, but not setting a related DTC.
 

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Just read through really quickly quickly right now, super busy - but you may have to inject up to 8 ounces of oil into the brick . . . just an ounce or so may not do the trick (As Ron had alluded to above). I will check back here later . . . s.
 

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Hello everyone, so I've first had this issue a month ago, the workshop told me to change the multiair module and the spark plugs, They did it and yesterday I've got exactly the same issue. The engine doesn't want to turn on. So I've decided to take a syringe fill up with oil, and inject it directly on the little ball (picture 2). Then I've disconnected the oil pump fuse and it turned on ! so I'm here asking if someone know this issue, and what can I do to get 100% get rid off.

Thank you very much
(you can look at the problem here) :
You said you pulled the fuse on the OIL pump. That is wrong. You're not gonna build oil pressure with the oil pump off. People have pulled the fuse on the FUEL PUMP, in order to build up oil pressure, before reconnecting and starting.
 

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I
You said you pulled the fuse on the OIL pump. That is wrong. You're not gonna build oil pressure with the oil pump off. People have pulled the fuse on the FUEL PUMP, in order to build up oil pressure, before reconnecting and starting.
I took that as a basic human error, that in fact he pulled the fuel pump fuse while building oil pressure.
 

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I was also going with simple mistake since there is no fuse for the oil pump, it is mechanically connected to the crank and that is what turns it.

If this is happening every few days, I would also lean toward a bad oil pump or something allowing the MA brick to drain faster than normal. If under warranty, take it in to have it diagnosed and repaired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You said you pulled the fuse on the OIL pump. That is wrong. You're not gonna build oil pressure with the oil pump off. People have pulled the fuse on the FUEL PUMP, in order to build up oil pressure, before reconnecting and starting.
hello, sorry, it’s my error, it is the fuel pump fuse that I’ve disconnected
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I was also going with simple mistake since there is no fuse for the oil pump, it is mechanically connected to the crank and that is what turns it.

If this is happening every few days, I would also lean toward a bad oil pump or something allowing the MA brick to drain faster than normal. If under warranty, take it in to have it diagnosed and repaired.
It isn’t under warranty anymore.
I also think that it could be the oil pump.
I’m going to add an oil pressure gauge to see if it happens another time !
 

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It isn’t under warranty anymore.
I also think that it could be the oil pump.
I’m going to add an oil pressure gauge to see if it happens another time !
Just remember, at cranking RPM's you will not get alot of oil pressure, it will be minimal, but should be enough to tell if it is an oil pump issue or not. s.
 

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Cranking RPM's is the speed the starter motor spins the engine, much less RPM's than the engine would run at idle speed, hence the oil pressure will be lower. -. No need to apologize 😃! Best, s.
 
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