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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had a unique opportunity to compare all three EUROCOMPULSION intakes and figured I would provide some feedback.


EUROCOMPULSION V1 Intake:
Overview: I found this intake simple and surprisingly easy to install. For someone who wants simplicity, this is a good intake to go with. It retains the use of the stock airbox, but replaces the accordion-style hose with a silicone that reduces turbulence. There's a slight performance gain to be had in the higher RPM range from about 4,000 to 5750 RPM where the turbulence caused by the ribbed stock duct becomes restrictive.

Features: Easiest to install, sleek appearance, slight reduction in intake temps, inexpensive, unlikely to raise eyebrows with the service department. Retains the use of stock filters, with an optional high-flow K&N filter.




EUROCOMPPULSION V2 Intake:
Overview: I found this intake to crank up the fun factor on the car to 11. Sure, going faster is fun, but this intake hits you from two dimensions: speed and sound. On a manual 124 Spider, the intake releases all sorts of induction and turbo that put you in a in a state of giddy excitement. You'll hear the induction sound, the turbo spooling up, the blow-off sound, and the occasional BPV flutter.


There's a noticeable performance gain across the board from throttle response to top end. This intake totally replaces the entire intake system with a smooth silicone hose, effectively eliminating all of the turbulence caused by the stock induction system and providing a shorter and more direct path to the turbo.

Features: Eye catching appearance, especially in red, slight reduction of intake temps most of the time, moderately priced, has the most filtration surface area of any of these intakes with a high-flow filter. Fairly easy to install. Sounds awesome.




EUROCOMPULSION V4 Intake:
Overview: If you want the fastest intake EC makes, this is the ticket. It provides the coldest air charge while also reducing turbulence and as a result, makes the most power. It is required for EC's phase 2 tune. It provides the coolest air charge by resisting heat soak and pulling air through the factory cold air intake duct. While induction sounds are not quite as loud as they are with the V2 intake, you still hear the BOV and turbo spool. I'd estimate the difference in induction noise to be around 1/2 as loud as the V2 intake, so you still get some of the excitement. This intake uses an enclosed and self-contained filter. It's a bit more difficult to install than the other two intakes but not prohibitively so. In my opinion, this intake looks most "at home" in the engine bay of the 124 Spider.

Features: Eye catching, performance-oriented appearance, especially in red, reduction in intake temps across the board, high flow filter, makes more power than the rest of the intakes in all conditions. Sounds great.




Conclusion
I found all of these intakes to be of solid quality, performing as advertised, and sold at a very fair price. EC's kevlar-reinforced silicone ducts are well designed and durable, and I expect them to last the life of the car. While intakes don't always provide a tangible performance gains on some vehicles, I found noteworthy performance gains, especially with the V2 and V4 intakes. Whether you're looking to add a quick and simple upgrade, bump up the fun factor of your car, or open a can of [email protected]$$, EC has you covered.
 

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V1 and V4 seem to be the same length and size from the turbo to the air filter accoridng to the picture. Correct me if wrong
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The forum broke my embedded link for my video. Fixed it.

V1 and V4 seem to be the same length and size from the turbo to the air filter accoridng to the picture. Correct me if wrong
The distance from the turbo to the cold air outlet is the same, but the path followed isn't. The V4 takes a more direct path with fewer bends and transitions. From the cold air outlet, it goes straight into the bottom of the filter box, has to be diverted upward through a flat panel filter, then has to be diverted sideways again to the final duct to the turbo.

To understand turbulence, think of air not as a flexible medium that can adapt, but think of it as a solid mass or block of finite dimensions and imagine that mass traveling through its intended path. I find that it helps to explain it this way when explaining turbulence in subwoofer ports/vents and cylinder heads. If you think of it as a solid mass, every transition from large to small and every bend presents some turbulence that slows the flow of air and provides restriction at the exit point downstream. This is one reason I like that EC publishes flow bench tested air intake pressure for their intakes. The V2 and V4 intake provide more laminar flow from entry to exit, which starts to really show at the top end of the power band above 4000 RPM.
 

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I understand the air flow from start to end of air filter, but the ID of the V1 and of the V4 looks the same I don't know the inner Diameter of the V4 at the Canister level.
 

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I've had all three intakes on my car. Not much to add to what XR has said other than I found the power difference between the V2 and V4 indistinguishable. I've no doubt its there given the source of the airflow, but my butt dyno couldn't measure it. If I were trying to decide between the two, I'd base my decision purely on whether you want the sound effects.

I believe EC are OK with you using the V2 for phase 2.
 
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We prefer the V4 for use with Phase 2 and all of our data is based on that combo. However, as long as you have the required intercooler, the V2 will be fine with Phase 2.

In terms of power, and we have done a lot of testing on this, the V2 and V4 are very close. Under conditions ideal for the V2, it's only about 2hp behind the V4, which isn't enough to really feel. However at higher speeds, like above 80mph, the V4's ram air starts to become a factor. Also at very low speeds, or when spending a lot of time stopped, like in traffic, the V2 heats up more and falls farther behind.

All these intakes have their place, which is why we make all three :)

Greg
 

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First - Great Recap above.

I installed my V4 after about 600 miles on the Car. Butt Dyno-wise I did not feel an immediate significant difference performance-wise. However, now at 1200-1300 miles I feel a significant difference especially at 3800 - 4500 RPM. There are a couple twisty long hills I climb on way home from work. The the car defiantly has that power surge it did not have before. I can pull out of those turns much more strongly. I don't know if it is engine loosing up or the ECU adapting to the V4, I'd guess maybe it is a combo of both. Happy we have these options to choose from.
 

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We prefer the V4 for use with Phase 2 and all of our data is based on that combo. However, as long as you have the required intercooler, the V2 will be fine with Phase 2.

In terms of power, and we have done a lot of testing on this, the V2 and V4 are very close. Under conditions ideal for the V2, it's only about 2hp behind the V4, which isn't enough to really feel. However at higher speeds, like above 80mph, the V4's ram air starts to become a factor. Also at very low speeds, or when spending a lot of time stopped, like in traffic, the V2 heats up more and falls farther behind.

All these intakes have their place, which is why we make all three :)

Greg
So, it’s time to upgrade for me, I have the phase one tune with no intake, speed is not my main factor, the noise and flutter is what makes a fun drive. So I think the V2 is best, however I am worried that the hot summer temperatures here in Australia and your comment above about slower speeds (say 0 to 80 mph), the V2 may not be the best solution. Also do you guys redo the tune for me to accomodate the new intake?

Thanks

Greg
 

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Bro, I live in PR where every fay from 10am-5pm it is 90f

I have the V2 intake and it feels very strong, I have a tork tune.
 

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There is no need to change the tune after an intake is installed. The ECU in this car is the speed density type, it adjusts automatically.


Greg
 

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So, it’s time to upgrade for me, I have the phase one tune with no intake, speed is not my main factor, the noise and flutter is what makes a fun drive. So I think the V2 is best, however I am worried that the hot summer temperatures here in Australia and your comment above about slower speeds (say 0 to 80 mph), the V2 may not be the best solution. Also do you guys redo the tune for me to accomodate the new intake?

Thanks

Greg
If you can afford it, I'd suggest getting the V4. It'll be a "one and done" type of mod. If you put on a higher level of tune, or bigger intercooler, etc., the V4 will be able to handle it all. I myself don't have a V4, but something similar from another vendor, and it works just like advertised. You won't be disappointed!

Also, if you haven't done it yet, I'd also suggest getting a GFB DV+ (I think they're actually made in Australia) and a Torque Solutions blow-off plate adapter. If you want to hear the vent to atmosphere sound, the TS plate will do that. And the GFB DV+ is a much better made diverter valve than the OEM one, another "one and done" kind of mod. I have both, and the car pulls nice and hard, and makes that "ppsshhh" sound that turbo cars are known for.
 

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We prefer the V4 for use with Phase 2 and all of our data is based on that combo. However, as long as you have the required intercooler, the V2 will be fine with Phase 2.

In terms of power, and we have done a lot of testing on this, the V2 and V4 are very close. Under conditions ideal for the V2, it's only about 2hp behind the V4, which isn't enough to really feel. However at higher speeds, like above 80mph, the V4's ram air starts to become a factor. Also at very low speeds, or when spending a lot of time stopped, like in traffic, the V2 heats up more and falls farther behind.

All these intakes have their place, which is why we make all three :)

Greg
In the stats you have on your website, there is the V1 with a stock filter compared to the V2 and V4. I already have the BMC Airfilter (FB933/01) for the OEM air filter box. I would like to know the difference between V1 with BMC and the V4? Is this info available. I already have an ECU remap and it does 195HP on the dyno already.
 

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I'm at similar power with the v1 and an afe panel filter. I would say the £/performance of jumping to v4 would be very small at stage 1. I don't think the intake is much of a restriction at that power.
 

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I'm at similar power with the v1 and an afe panel filter. I would say the £/performance of jumping to v4 would be very small at stage 1. I don't think the intake is much of a restriction at that power.
Hi, are you at similar power as stock with AFE and V1 or same as my car?
 

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Believe I am around 200 at the flywheel based various tests but not dynod. Running EC phase 1 with some mods.
 
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