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Exhaust Cross Pipe

23276 Views 137 Replies 40 Participants Last post by  RobbertNLD
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It's finally done and up for sale. We went all out on this, it's make from 304 stainless including the welds and mounting flanges. All the included nuts and bolts are flanged and serrated nuts which makes installation relatively easy. The 304 stainelss provides a good temperature barrier but to provide further temperature protection to the slave cylinder, oil, and transmission we include Mishimoto header wrap, which is expensive wrap, but it's the best. We also went with a long lasting copper reinforced connection donut instead of the factory graphite type. The graphite types tend to flake apart every time you remove them, ours can be removed and reinstalled multiple times if needed. This part isn't cheap but we used the highest quality materials and parts, and it's make in the USA. It's going to last forever.

The factory cross pipe is the main restriction in the oem cat back system so this pipe gives about 90% of the performance benefit of a typical full cat back system while retaining the ability to run the Record Monza exhaust, or anything else that connects to the stock mid pipe.

At this time this is only available for the manual transmission cars.


Greg
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I think I'll start a new thread to show the "mystery part" that's coming next.

Greg
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lol...I think there are a few threads discussing your mystery parts! Hmmm. perhaps I should reword that?

aloha mike
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Any option to get these without the wrap for those of us that prefer coating? Either way, THANKS for bringing these to market!
Ordered! Looking forward to getting it installed.
Blimey! I had a guess at the price and was about 200 bucks shy. Oh, and it’s sold out already! Loki’s like a bomb proof part, though.
Ditto on the price, too much for me, but looking forward to the reviews, and even better some dyno comparisons perhaps?
Any option to get these without the wrap for those of us that prefer coating? Either way, THANKS for bringing these to market!
I suppose that could be an option, but header wrap works a lot better than coatings in terms of heat reduction. The coatings are good, but it's a question of thickness, the wrap is about 100 times thicker, or more. Coatings do have their place, there are areas where wrap isn't practical, like on the exhaust manifold.

Greg
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Hi Greg,
Could I use any aftermarket downpipe with this crosspipe, such as the GWR sportcat?
Thanks,
Adam
Greg-

Two questions-

1. If this pipe doesnt (or wasnt intended to) fit an automatic, will there be an automatic version coming out anytime soon?

2. Any chance of a less pretty 400 series stainless option that might lower the price some?

I'll save my pennies if #2 is a big fat no, but if #1 is also no, then #2 doesn't matter.

Thanks either way!
Hi Greg,
Could I use any aftermarket downpipe with this crosspipe, such as the GWR sportcat?
Thanks,
Adam
If it can connect to the stock cross pipe it will connect to ours. That said, I can't comment on the GWR sportcat, I don't have one.

Greg
Greg-

Two questions-

1. If this pipe doesnt (or wasnt intended to) fit an automatic, will there be an automatic version coming out anytime soon?

2. Any chance of a less pretty 400 series stainless option that might lower the price some?

I'll save my pennies if #2 is a big fat no, but if #1 is also no, then #2 doesn't matter.

Thanks either way!
It may very well fit the automatic car, but I haven't had a chance to test fit it. We have no plans to make one out of 409 stainless.

Greg
It may very well fit the automatic car, but I haven't had a chance to test fit it. We have no plans to make one out of 409 stainless.

Greg
Well, I have an AT Lusso in Austin, TX, that just called up from the garage, saying it could be a test fitting guinea pig =)
I really have to test fit one on an automatic car myself. That way if it doesn't fit I can see what changes to make.

Greg
4
I bought my EuroCompulsion crossover pipe Friday Sep 18. Received it on Monday. Some posters have been concerned about the high price. Well, I’m a retired automotive research engineer. I used to do durability testing of 18 wheeler cat converters for my client FMC. We called the test “shake and bake” I ran those cats for days on a vibration table with exhaust so hot they glowed cherry red. I had several techs and two fantastic welders working for me. I used to buy the very best stainless steel for our test fixtures. That stuff wasn’t cheap 14 years ago. What I see in this pipe from EC is first class work. Add in the heat wrap which appears to be like that used in my Sila titanium turbo blanket, and the stainless hardware, and I can understand the price.

I planned to have a local custom exhaust shop install the pipe because of all the reports I’d read of broken studs when installing Goodwin’s cross pipes.
I had my Abarth in for alignment tweaking Monday PM at my Go-To guys, Yoi Kazoku, drift car specialists in San Antonio. (No, I don’t drift, but these guys know modified cars and they listen to what grandmother wants them to do.)

I mentioned my plans for the cross pipe to the owner, Justin. He said “if you bring it back in an hour, we can knock it out for you.” I mentioned that studs often break and he insisted they could take care of it. Well, I went back at 5:30, at 6:30 they snapped off the studs. They didn’t want to use a torch on the nuts because there’s a turbo line close by. It was too late to continue so they shot lots of PB Blaster on the studs, closed the shop, and TJ gave me a ride home in his truck.

Tuesday noon they told me the car was all set. The broken studs came out easily that morning. They bolted the pipe to the cat instead of using studs again. The rest of the hookup was simple.

The exhaust is now a little louder, about 2 decibels more at 3,000 rpm, measured using a sound meter app on my phone. I know you all want to know about performance gains. My butt dyno says it was worth the $500. The car pulls even stronger now from 3,200 RPM on up than it did before the pipe, and it was pulling much better than stock before. Seems to be spooling up faster. I still have a Y-pipe to install in place of the muffler. Hope to get to that on Wed-Thur. I don’t plan to spend my bucks on dyno runs for the car (I’ve been quoted $150 for 3 runs). I may do some 0-60 times with a data logger I can connect to the OBDII reader. Need to find a safe place to do that.

Thanks, Greg. I didn't want to go the total replacement route. With this setup, I can easily swap the stock muffler and the resonated Y-pipe back and forth as I want to. Might even want a Record Monza some day, and I still get most of the potential performance gains. Auto part Pipe Engine Fuel line
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Nice write up! Hopefully Greg can test fit one of these to an automatic someday soon to verify the fit, or produce a version that does fit.

Sorry to hear about the studs snapping, but it seems like a common problem when replacing these cross pipes. I wonder if using a socket and ratchet is where the problem happens, and zapping them off with an impact has better luck. I have snapped hundreds of bolts and studs using a handheld wrench over the years but very few when using an impact. If these studs are soft enough to twist off as easily as we frequently hear, one can only hope they are soft enough to be drilled out and there is enough room to do it without the surgery of removing the cat. I've been down this road enough to dread the thought of it.

As for the pipe itself, sounds like a home run!
Nice write up! Hopefully Greg can test fit one of these to an automatic someday soon to verify the fit, or produce a version that does fit.

Sorry to hear about the studs snapping, but it seems like a common problem when replacing these cross pipes. I wonder if using a socket and ratchet is where the problem happens, and zapping them off with an impact has better luck. I have snapped hundreds of bolts and studs using a handheld wrench over the years but very few when using an impact. If these studs are soft enough to twist off as easily as we frequently hear, one can only hope they are soft enough to be drilled out and there is enough room to do it without the surgery of removing the cat. I've been down this road enough to dread the thought of it.

As for the pipe itself, sounds like a home run!
Nice write up! Hopefully Greg can test fit one of these to an automatic someday soon to verify the fit, or produce a version that does fit.

Sorry to hear about the studs snapping, but it seems like a common problem when replacing these cross pipes. I wonder if using a socket and ratchet is where the problem happens, and zapping them off with an impact has better luck. I have snapped hundreds of bolts and studs using a handheld wrench over the years but very few when using an impact. If these studs are soft enough to twist off as easily as we frequently hear, one can only hope they are soft enough to be drilled out and there is enough room to do it without the surgery of removing the cat. I've been down this road enough to dread the thought of it.

As for the pipe itself, sounds like a home run!
Monday evening, the studs snapped off using a socket and breaker bar. Tuesday morning, Jason was able to easily remove the broken studs with a special stud removal tool; must have been enough stud sticking out to get the tool on. We will never know if the overnite soak with PB Blaster helped or not. The threads were chased with a thread tap before using bolts to fasten pipe to cat. This should be OK for the life of the car. I'm so glad I brought this job to a professional shop.
I’m going to be installing mine this weekend. I will make sure to hit them with PB blaster - really don’t want them to snap.

If they do snap - what are the studs actually in? Are the studs stuck in the bottom of the down-pipe/cat?
I have the goodwin racing 2.5 crosspipe. I have a leak at the cat and its throwing a p0137 code for faulty o2 sensor or leak. I went out and bought a gasket recommended here and a new o2 sensor just in case. Should I wrap the exhaust in heat shield like this? I don't have any plans for autocross or racing but occasionally ill have a spirited cruise. Is it required?
I’m going to be installing mine this weekend. I will make sure to hit them with PB blaster - really don’t want them to snap.

If they do snap - what are the studs actually in? Are the studs stuck in the bottom of the down-pipe/cat?
The studs are into the bottom of the cat. I HIGHLY recommend paying a muffler shop to do the install. Advise them to be careful of the studs. When (if) the studs break, they are equipped to take care of it. If they break at home with your car on jack stands, you are "up the creek"
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