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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This thread will outline the installation process for the FITS (Fun in the sun) sound system upgrade. Refer to the discussion thread here: https://www.124spider.org/forum/26-electronics-audio-lighting/27202-xr-s-124-spider-audio-thread.html

About the Installation:
- Where tools or parts are required, components marked in bold green are included in my installation kit.
- Some component installations can be completed independent of the entire install, in that the work can be performed in a phased approach without leaving you without sound or with trim panels laying around until the project is completed.
- Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing any electrical work on your car!!!

Table of Contents:
Amplifier Power & Ground, Part 1
Amplifier Power & Ground, Part 2
Door Speakers, Part 1
Door Speakers, Part 2

Thread will be unlocked once all instructions have been posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Amplifier Power & Ground, Part 1


Tools Required:
- Trim removal tools
- Drill with 3/8" and 1/2" drill bit
- Ratchet & socket set
- Utility knife
- Scrap piece of wood

Parts Required:
- 28" 4 AWG power cable, with terminal
- 15" 4 AWG power cable
- 36" 4 AWG ground cable, with terminal
- Fuse holder with 80A or greater fuse
- Two zipties


Notes:
- The amplifier cable install can be performed independently of other installation steps, if you want to install this system in phases over multiple days or evenings.

Installation Steps:
Always disconnect the negative battery terminal before doing any electrical work on your car!!!

1. Remove the terminal covering the positive battery terminal. To do this, lifting up on the left half of the cover, and pushing the tab to the right half of the cover to the side. Once the tab ish pushed to the side, you can lift the terminal cover off.


2. Remove the nut marked below:


3. Using the 1/2" drill bit, make an oval hole in the side of the battery cover in the approximate location shown below. You can trim this (carefully) with a utility knife later if needed.


4. Remove the coolant reservoir nuts and slide the reservoir over to the side. This will give you more room to work around the battery terminal.


5. Slide the battery cover through the 4 AWG power cable terminal as shown below, then down over the terminal, and reinstall the terminal nut. Once done, slide the terminal cover back on top of the terminals and push it snapped closed. It will take a bit of wiggling to do that but it will snap into place.


6. Remove the grommet shown in the picture below. You can use the trim removal tools to get underneath it, or simply grab the ridge with some pliers and yank (what I did).


7. CAREFULLY drill a 3/8" hole through the center of the grommet. I found that it helped to drill it against a scrap piece of wood as you're likely to cut yourself if you hold the grommet with your bare hands. Trim as needed with the utility knife, carefully and slowly.


8. Back to the inside of the car, slide the driver's seat back and remove the trim fasteners shown here:


9. Slide the chair back again, remove the cover off the fuse box, and remove the fastener shown below. Once done, you can pull the sill cover off by simply lifting up, pull the trim piece out shown in step 8, and pull the trim cover off that covers the fuse panel.


10. Go into the trunk, and remove the trunk trim panels by removing the fasteners in the trunk and pulling the panels out. Make note of which fasteners you pulled from which location.



11. Remove the fuel fill hose cover:


12. Start routing the long power cable behind the factory cables as shown here:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Amplifier Power & Ground, Part 2

13. Route the cable behind the white cable holder (I tried to through but couldn't), and then through the opening next to the wiring harness.


14. Back into the cabin behind the seat, you should be able to pull the cable through a bit at a time as shown here:


15. Route the cable through the wire holder on the sill...


16. ...then underneath the harness, and up through the white cable holder...


17. ...then behind all the factory wiring...


18. ...then through the hole where you pulled the grommet from:


19. In the engine bay, pull the cable through, push the grommet over the cable, and slide it down until you can snap it back into place.


20. Using the allen wrench set, connect both ends of the cable to the fuse holder, but leave the fuse out until after you've installed the amplifier. Attach a strip of double sided tape to the bottom of the fuse holder.


21. Ziptie the power cable down to prevent it from rubbing somewhere. I used the following points:


22. Remove the bolt shown below to mount the amplifier ground cable, and run it alongside the power cable:


23. Coil up the cables in a corner somewhere until you're ready to install the amplifier.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Door Speakers, Part 1

Tools Required:
- Half-moon file
- Pliers
- Trim removal tools
- Phillips & flathead screwdrivers
- Scissors/shears
- Ratchet and metric socket set.

Parts Required:
- Metra 72-5602 Speaker Wiring Harness, Available on Crutchfield.com
- American International NSB710 Speaker Mounting Brackets, Available on Crutchfield.com
- American Bass Symphony 6.5 speakers. (Note: these are required for my FITS 124 Spider/ND Miata complete sound system as the miniDSP C-DSP 6x8 tune is designed specifically for this speaker set. You are welcome to use other speakers if you prefer, but they will not work with my miniDSP C-DSP 6x8 tune)
- Two zipties
- Two foam rings with centers
- 8ft of 1/8" thick x 1/4" wide adhesive vinyl foam tape


Notes:
- I mixed photos from the driver and passenger side for these instructions, in case you're wondering why some of the photos look inconsistent.
- You can install this part of the sound system independently of the rest if you'd like to perform the install in phases over multiple days/evenings. The speakers will work like factory replacement speakers; you won't be without a sound system while you finish the install.

Installation:
1. Remove the plastic trim panel behind the door latch, by lifting the side edge up and prying it back. Note: one of the clips toward the latch broke on mine while removing, but that didn't affect how it sat when I put it all back together; it was still secure.


2. Remove the screw behind that trim panel:


3. Remove the door handle cover by prying from underneath. Take your time and do this slowly, and let the trim cover pull back. Take your time, as this will probably break if you try to pull it too fast. You should be able to pull it straight back. I pulled this on and off about 3 times for the driver's door and it was fine each time.


4. Remove the two screws marked below:


5. Begin pulling the door skin straight back. I found it easiest to get my fingers under the forward edge next to the speaker grill. Pull back slowly, gradually applying more pressure, then work your way around. Once you have it detached from all the door clips, lift the door skin straight up and it will come free.


6. The door latch will swing out, then pull out.


7. Remove the harness connectors by pressing down on the locking tabs.


8. Remove the stock speaker by disconnecting the wiring harness and removing the 3 bolts shown.


9. Cut some strips out of the center of the speaker ring.


10. Run the stock wiring down into the inside of the door, and stick the strips between the wires to provide a seal. The idea here is to seal the back of the door panel against the front as well as possible. Also, attach the Metra wiring harness connector to the connector you removed from the stock speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Door Speakers, Part 2

11. Attach a strip of vinyl foam tape to the back of the speaker adapter.


12. Ziptie a bunch of the wiring harness to prevent it from banging around inside the door and potentially getting caught in the window.


13. Using some pliers, break off all of the tabs on the speaker adapter. File off all of the remaining plastic to create a smooth, round surface.


14. Attach a strip of vinyl foam tape to the back of the speaker.


15. Attach the wires from the wiring harness to the speaker.


16. Install the speaker using the included screws, at the following mounting points.


17. Place the speaker foam ring over the speaker frame carefully. You want it to sit just outside the speaker's surround, but not attached to the surround itself. Take your time and it should fit perfectly. The speaker ring is necessary to seal off the speaker itself from the inside of the door panel, where sounds would create cancellations, reflections, and resonances that would affect our tuning. This foam rings allows us to divert sound directly into the cabin.


18. By this point you probably noticed that some of the fasteners from the door skin got left behind. I found the best way to get these off was to lift the base with a trim removal tool and use a screwdriver to wedge them out. If you just grab the rear lip with pliers and yank them out, you'll just break off pieces of plastic and will have no chance of being able to reuse them. I was able to reuse all of mine as there was enough of the lip remaining to re-insert them in the door skin.



19. Reinstall the door skin by hanging it off of the top of the door panel, pressing the door clips in one at a time, re-inserting the screws, and re-affixing the door handle cover and door latch panel.
 

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