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Discussion Starter #1
I’m starting this thread for those that are interested in trying the Forge Pressure Compensation Valve that works in series with the forge recirculating or atmospheric valves. As of yesterday I’ve run it with both valves with success. Personally o preferred the recirculating valve but tat is a personal preference so it’s up to you what way you want to go.
The following is my installation instructions. If you have any questions about what this is and how it works reference my initial installation in Aurora’s build thread in the link at the bottom of this post.
I will start with the solenoid that connects to the electrical system.
First connect all 3 ports with a length of tubing and a T fitting like in the following pictures.


After the tubing is complete connect the supplied wiring harness adapter to the solenoid and to the stock diverted valve harness. The forge solenoid mounted conveniently in front of the ECU bracket in one of the two unused bolt holes below the intake. This finishes the electrical side of the installation.


Now we move onto mounting the FPCV. I modified the 90 degree bracket that is supplied with the kit with a 5/16 hole so I could mount it to the cross tube for the PCV system.


Next we need to tap into the intake manifold pressure/vacuum system. To do this I use the common point for tapping in a boost gauge by removing the metal cross tube between the 2 90 degree rubber fittings on the intake manifold. I place a brass T fitting in the middle of a piece of supplied tubing I cut a brass straight fitting in half and insert them into the silicone tubing then insert the reinforced tubing into the 90 degree fittings with spring clamps.
Then you attach a length of tubing to the T and it attaches the the bottom port on the right side of the FPCV


Next we tap into the high pressure side of the turbo. This is the tubing that comes out from under the turbo (not the boost tube) I cut it between the 2 90 degree bends and insert a brass T fitting to reconnect them. Now attach a length of tubing to the new T port and connect it to the top port of the right side of the FPCV.


Finally we can install the recirculating/atmospheric valve to the turbo and attach a length of tubing which connects to the left side of the FPCV.

Installation complete recheck all of your connections and go for a drive.


https://www.124spider.org/forum/432904-post126.html
 

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Is the high pressure line the same one you cut for the Forge BOA in the first place? Or would you need to take that T out and reconnect straight and cut another one?


Just went and looked again.. It's the same line I already have cut and Tee'd for the BOA now.
 

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Excuse my ignorance, but looking at the first picture, you lost me. Some of the steps reminds me what I did to install the Atmosphere Forge valve and a Boost gauge.

What you did serves what purpose and benefit.
Maybe a video would be more explanatory. tia
 

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Thanks Phillip. I'm stoked to get this set up. I'm going to run in the GWR sportcat and exhaust a few hundred miles to look for problems then get this on. I'm sure I'll be back with questions.
 

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A slightly off topic question since you are getting ready for the Turbo upgrade. I looked at NGEN's requirements a week or two back and I was confused by the WGA needing the YELLOW spring and set for 8PSI. The Yellow is rated at 10-14 and Green is 5-10. I get how to set for 8 with the Green by shortening the arm until 8PSI makes the linkage move (pre-load as its called) but how would you set the arm for something lower than the spring can even be set for? Mine came with the Yellow and it does not move at all until 10PSI, verified with a decent hand pump gauge that I can squeeze 1PSI at a time if I want. I have the set of new springs coming since I figured it needed to be set lower and there wasn't a choice upon purchase from either EC or Madness.
 

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Sorry to highjack your thread @Phillip33. I just couldn’t help it. Friday was Phillip’s birthday and we had a great weekend on the Snake. Today he shoots me this picture of a GT40 behind him on the freeway. He stopped by the house, we talked and he started this thread. On the way home the same GT40 was parked at the roadside view point before you get to his house. And yes he was in front of his “new” ride. It’s the pick up behind the GT40.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A slightly off topic question since you are getting ready for the Turbo upgrade. I looked at NGEN's requirements a week or two back and I was confused by the WGA needing the YELLOW spring and set for 8PSI. The Yellow is rated at 10-14 and Green is 5-10. I get how to set for 8 with the Green by shortening the arm until 8PSI makes the linkage move (pre-load as its called) but how would you set the arm for something lower than the spring can even be set for? Mine came with the Yellow and it does not move at all until 10PSI, verified with a decent hand pump gauge that I can squeeze 1PSI at a time if I want. I have the set of new springs coming since I figured it needed to be set lower and there wasn't a choice upon purchase from either EC or Madness.
We have the Forge waste gate actuator but haven’t installed it yet.
Also the NGEN recommendations are for the 500 platform which runs a lower standard PSI.
I will start a thread on it when it gets installed.
 

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We have the Forge waste gate actuator but haven’t installed it yet.
Also the NGEN recommendations are for the 500 platform which runs a lower standard PSI.
I will start a thread on it when it gets installed.

Ok, even if for the 500... How would you set the crack pressure for something lower than the spring physically allows? I also have the Forge WGA and have tested the Yellow Spring and it will not move until 10 PSI and that's why its not on the car at the moment and why I ordered the Spring kit to put the Green on that allows for 5-10PSI Crack.



On the NGEN site:
MINIMUM RECOMMENDED MODIFICATIONS:
- Performance Air Intake (Eurocompulsion V4.1 or V2.1/Neu-F is preferred. RRM and ATM is also acceptable)
- Front Mount Intercooler (Eurocompulsion, NGEN CHQ, ATM or AGP Only)
- Forge Recirculation or Atmospheric Valve with Blue Spring (GFB DV+ is not supported)
- Forge Wastegate Actuator with Yellow Spring (Crack Pressure set at 8 psi)
- Euro+Drive Flash Tune with Phase 3 - NGEN (ECU Piggybacks or other Flash Tunes not supported)
- Upgraded Ignition Coils (NGEN, Alfa 4C or Okada IP)
- New Spark Plugs installed (NGK Iridium IX Gapped at .024 or Brisk at .022)
- Oil and Filter Change (3,000 mile intervals afterwawrds)
- Hi-Flow Cat (El Gato or Supersprint Preferred) or Catless Downpipe (MPX or Supersprint Preferred)
- 2.25+ Midpipe and Axleback Exhaust (El Gato/MPX, Neu-F Mid and Race or Supersprint Preferred)


From the Forge Spring Kit Description and Yellow verified by me personally:




SPRING RATES:

  • Green - 5-10 PSI
  • Yellow - 10-14 PSI
  • Blue - 14-18 PSI
  • Red - 19-23 PSI


Is it a very crucial typo on the NGEN website? The WGA is the exact same for both cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok, even if for the 500... How would you set the crack pressure for something lower than the spring physically allows? I also have the Forge WGA and have tested the Yellow Spring and it will not move until 10 PSI and that's why its not on the car at the moment and why I ordered the Spring kit to put the Green on that allows for 5-10PSI Crack.



On the NGEN site:
MINIMUM RECOMMENDED MODIFICATIONS:
- Performance Air Intake (Eurocompulsion V4.1 or V2.1/Neu-F is preferred. RRM and ATM is also acceptable)
- Front Mount Intercooler (Eurocompulsion, NGEN CHQ, ATM or AGP Only)
- Forge Recirculation or Atmospheric Valve with Blue Spring (GFB DV+ is not supported)
- Forge Wastegate Actuator with Yellow Spring (Crack Pressure set at 8 psi)
- Euro+Drive Flash Tune with Phase 3 - NGEN (ECU Piggybacks or other Flash Tunes not supported)
- Upgraded Ignition Coils (NGEN, Alfa 4C or Okada IP)
- New Spark Plugs installed (NGK Iridium IX Gapped at .024 or Brisk at .022)
- Oil and Filter Change (3,000 mile intervals afterwawrds)
- Hi-Flow Cat (El Gato or Supersprint Preferred) or Catless Downpipe (MPX or Supersprint Preferred)
- 2.25+ Midpipe and Axleback Exhaust (El Gato/MPX, Neu-F Mid and Race or Supersprint Preferred)


From the Forge Spring Kit Description and Yellow verified by me personally:




SPRING RATES:

  • Green - 5-10 PSI
  • Yellow - 10-14 PSI
  • Blue - 14-18 PSI
  • Red - 19-23 PSI


Is it a very crucial typo on the NGEN website? The WGA is the exact same for both cars.

@[email protected]
Correct me if I’m wrong but believe when you install the FWGA you will need a tune revision to compensate for the higher crack pressure.
The WGA is controlled by a solenoid anyway which is the reason you can adjust the boost with the ECU instead of a boost controller.
So the crack pressure is probably for quicker response when the solenoid opens to correct overboost situations.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Excuse my ignorance, but looking at the first picture, you lost me. Some of the steps reminds me what I did to install the Atmosphere Forge valve and a Boost gauge.

What you did serves what purpose and benefit.
Maybe a video would be more explanatory. tia
Long story short it takes away control from the computer and hooks the recirculating valve up to intake pressure to be controlled like a standard recirculating valve.
 

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Long story short it takes away control from the computer and hooks the recirculating valve up to intake pressure to be controlled like a standard recirculating valve.
This is more precise than the ECU controlling it. Correct me if wrong, the above system will not work with Atmospheric Forge valve, cause the pressure is released.
 

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@[email protected]
Correct me if I’m wrong but believe when you install the FWGA you will need a tune revision to compensate for the higher crack pressure.
The WGA is controlled by a solenoid anyway which is the reason you can adjust the boost with the ECU instead of a boost controller.
So the crack pressure is probably for quicker response when the solenoid opens to correct overboost situations.

I get that and I understand the tune would be needed to control it and why they call out for a specific crack pressure to be set. My question is HOW would you set the YELLOW spring that is rated at 10-14 PSI to 8PSI? It is technically impossible from my testing, it WILL NOT move before 10PSI.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I get that and I understand the tune would be needed to control it and why they call out for a specific crack pressure to be set. My question is HOW would you set the YELLOW spring that is rated at 10-14 PSI to 8PSI? It is technically impossible from my testing, it WILL NOT move before 10PSI.

@Calehedron
I understand what you are talking about which is why i tagged Toby in my response.
Lets start a new thread on this so we dont derail this one any further.
@XtremeRevolution
Can we move all of the posts about the forge wastegate actuator to a new thread?
 
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Just wanted to add that installing this mod seems to have fixed my issue with losing boost and revs at high rpm on EC phase 2.

 

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I was going to install everything this past weekend but came up with a different approach. I think the results will be the same. It required the ordering of one part.

I'm going to leave in the metal tubing and eliminate the circled elbow. I'll run a piece of 3/8" hose off the end of the existing hose to the manifold, clamping both ends. Then I'll insert this brass reduction tee I found on Amazon into the middle of the 3/8" section of hose. I ordered the 10mm x 6mm x 10mm.



I already have the Forge IPCV mounted on the bolt that holds the stock airbox at the front of the car. It's a perfect fit with no modifications needed. It also allows for clean hose runs on either side of the airbox.

@Phillip33, I think this achieves the same result, correct?
 

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