Front license plate
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The 5 dimples on the fascia indicate where the holes are drilled, and the instructions (with drill bit sizes) are molded into the rear side of the bracket. You will need a rivet tool to install.
It is pretty straight forward, but I wish I lived in a state that didn't require installing. I didn't think to take pictures when I installed the bracket.
It is pretty straight forward, but I wish I lived in a state that didn't require installing. I didn't think to take pictures when I installed the bracket.
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61 Posts
I see the instructions on the rear of the bracket.
States make a 8mm hole 2 places in bumper for Hook
Make a 5mm hole for rivet at the dimple on the bumper facia use attached rivits to mount holder.
The holder has three rivits attached to it
Don't know what the hook is?? I'll have to check for the dimples on the bumper during the daytime.
Not the greatest part nor instructions.
I hate that it covers the grill and more that I have to install the plate on the front.
States make a 8mm hole 2 places in bumper for Hook
Make a 5mm hole for rivet at the dimple on the bumper facia use attached rivits to mount holder.
The holder has three rivits attached to it
Don't know what the hook is?? I'll have to check for the dimples on the bumper during the daytime.
Not the greatest part nor instructions.
I hate that it covers the grill and more that I have to install the plate on the front.
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61 Posts
checked 949 racing no bracket there, I am guessing pikeman you are referring to the bracket holder that attaches to the front tow point. If you have seen one, it looks terrible. The Bracket I have seems like it fits only between the lower front grill in the middle but how one attaches it is a mystery. For now I am going without a front plate until someone comes up with a fix or a solution as to how to install the factory?? Mopar?? front license holder.
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165 Posts
For the front plate install my advice would be to return to the dealer, hand him the plate mounting bracket and say "You forgot to install this." Anything I've gotten from a dealer in Calif. came with the bracket installed, or the dealer asked if I wanted it installed.
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49 Posts
My dealer begged me not to install it. Still haven't taken that step. Our Texas plates are huge and ugly...I think I may go for suction cupping it to the front windshield for a non-permanent solution for the moment. I'm pretty sure Texas peeps would be angry if the dealer didn't give them the option to install themselves.
We have the front license plate holder as well that mounts to the tow hook mount (behind the plastic plug on the left side of the grille. I think I have some pics of the old version, but not the current one. The current one is in a better location, so I do not want to post pics of the old location.
http://www.autoricambi.us/product/1RE019/Front-license-plate-holder/
http://www.autoricambi.us/product/1RE019/Front-license-plate-holder/
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291 Posts
Please let us know when there are pics of the new one. I'm interested if it looks right.
mg
I'm also interested. Vandor, could you post a pic of the holder here, even if it's not going to be on the website right away?
I titled my Lusso yesterday so now have to get on with hanging the plates on it. CravenSpeed is close to me, so I stopped by there today to have a look at the two front plate holders they make for the 500s. Nice quality and finishes and not cheap. I brought one home to try and it did not work. Some of the hole spacing is the same, but otherwise nothing fits. The nice folks at CravenSpeed haven't had a chance to pattern a 124 for a plate holder yet, so I decided to pattern one of my own. I will share it with the guys at CravenSpeed when I get it dialed in.
I started with cardboard, and will move to 28ga (0.0187") galvanized steel sheet metal for my prototype. CravenSpeed's holders are about 0.0625 (1/16") aluminum, black powder coated, very nice.
The holder will use two existing fasteners that hold the underbody cowl in place. It will be on centerline, and will cover about 4" of the lower grille. It will reduce ground clearance at the nose by about an inch. I think I will have to drill just one hole in the underside of the nose where it won't show, since the two existing fasteners are connecting plastic to plastic, and it's a bit too flexible for a secure mounting.
Right now my mockup is a mishmash of cardboard and masking tape. When I get the sheet metal prototype snipped and bent, I will shoot a few pix and post them here.
I started with cardboard, and will move to 28ga (0.0187") galvanized steel sheet metal for my prototype. CravenSpeed's holders are about 0.0625 (1/16") aluminum, black powder coated, very nice.
The holder will use two existing fasteners that hold the underbody cowl in place. It will be on centerline, and will cover about 4" of the lower grille. It will reduce ground clearance at the nose by about an inch. I think I will have to drill just one hole in the underside of the nose where it won't show, since the two existing fasteners are connecting plastic to plastic, and it's a bit too flexible for a secure mounting.
Right now my mockup is a mishmash of cardboard and masking tape. When I get the sheet metal prototype snipped and bent, I will shoot a few pix and post them here.
I'm also in Texas, and after some conversations with my dealer we came up with a solution...the only question will be long-term durability...We used the stock bracket, and mounted it at the centerline of the front grille using sturdy black zip ties. The ties are invisible, the bracket and plate are tight and secure after a 100 mile drive on TX-130 (80 - 85 mph speed limits) so we'll see how it goes. I'll check periodically to see how the installation is holding up. No bumper drilling or adhesive required.
I thought about using zip ties, but I just didn't like the stock location in the middle of the two parts of the grille. I wanted it centered, but lower, where it wouldn't be such a dominant factor. I decided to use two existing fasteners where the nose piece is connected to the underbody cowl, on both sides of the centerline. Here they are, partially backed out so they can be seen.
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I made a cardboard mockup as a starting point.
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Then I transferred the mockup to a thin piece of scrap aluminum because it's so easy to cut with tinships. I made several changes to the aluminum pattern before I got it where I wanted it. Then I pounded out all the bends and traced it on to a piece of heavier galvanized steel sheet metal.
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I bought the 1 ft square piece at Home Depot.
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This stuff is much thicker and harder to cut - I recommend this type of tinsnip.
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I bent the piece and taped the plate to it for another fitting. Added a couple more minor bends.
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Drilled the piece and mounted the plate and screwed it to the underside of the nose. Note that I did drill two holes in the underside of the nose to stabilize the bracket. Better than five huge holes between the grilles!
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I stuck a piece of adhesive-backed foam to the back of the bracket where it touches the plastic nose below the lower grille. I bent the bracket so it is under slight tension against the nose to keep it from vibrating. It's pretty sturdy.
So there you go. The plate is lower and obstructs less of the two grilles. The lower edge of the plate actually reduces the ground clearance at the nose by about an inch. If you have a steep driveway, you might scrape. Use at your own risk.
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I put the dimensions on the aluminum mockup. Note there are no dimensions for the portion where the plate goes; while they're supposed to be standardized, there will be slight differences in the plates from each state, so use your own plate as a template for cutting and drilling the vertical portion of the bracket to fit correctly. The dimensions are easier to read if you download the image and magnify it.
![]()
I plan to give my aluminum mockup to the folks at CravenSpeed. I have no idea if they will actually produce it; they will have to decide if there will be enough demand to justify the CAD layout, plasma cutting, powder coating, etc. Meanwhile, make your own if you want. Let me know if you need any more info on this DIY project.
Meanwhile, I will trim the project out with a simple matte black plate frame and SS fasteners. Right now, I gotta go rake leaves.
I made a cardboard mockup as a starting point.
Then I transferred the mockup to a thin piece of scrap aluminum because it's so easy to cut with tinships. I made several changes to the aluminum pattern before I got it where I wanted it. Then I pounded out all the bends and traced it on to a piece of heavier galvanized steel sheet metal.
I bought the 1 ft square piece at Home Depot.
This stuff is much thicker and harder to cut - I recommend this type of tinsnip.
I bent the piece and taped the plate to it for another fitting. Added a couple more minor bends.
Drilled the piece and mounted the plate and screwed it to the underside of the nose. Note that I did drill two holes in the underside of the nose to stabilize the bracket. Better than five huge holes between the grilles!
I stuck a piece of adhesive-backed foam to the back of the bracket where it touches the plastic nose below the lower grille. I bent the bracket so it is under slight tension against the nose to keep it from vibrating. It's pretty sturdy.
So there you go. The plate is lower and obstructs less of the two grilles. The lower edge of the plate actually reduces the ground clearance at the nose by about an inch. If you have a steep driveway, you might scrape. Use at your own risk.
I put the dimensions on the aluminum mockup. Note there are no dimensions for the portion where the plate goes; while they're supposed to be standardized, there will be slight differences in the plates from each state, so use your own plate as a template for cutting and drilling the vertical portion of the bracket to fit correctly. The dimensions are easier to read if you download the image and magnify it.
I plan to give my aluminum mockup to the folks at CravenSpeed. I have no idea if they will actually produce it; they will have to decide if there will be enough demand to justify the CAD layout, plasma cutting, powder coating, etc. Meanwhile, make your own if you want. Let me know if you need any more info on this DIY project.
Meanwhile, I will trim the project out with a simple matte black plate frame and SS fasteners. Right now, I gotta go rake leaves.
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