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GFB DV+ Installation

17K views 65 replies 23 participants last post by  dgange 
#1 ·
I purchased a GFB DV+ and I am preparing to install. If anyone has good instructions or video that would be helpful. My real question is the directions say:

"During assembly, you can choose to install the main piston spring (indicated below by the arrow) or not. Using the spring is recommended because it results in the best possible throttle response and minimum lag on gearshift, particularly on manual cars. This can sometimes result in a slightly different sound from the intake at low RPM, which is no cause for alarm – it’s simply the different way in which the valve works. "

So, what do most of you do? Install the main spring or use OEM spring?

Thanks
Ed
 
#2 ·
I think most of us used the provided spring. be sure to lubricate the also provided piston. Very easy to do. Also you might want to put a towel or something similar under the work area just in case you drop a tool or screw
 
#4 ·
When I installed mine, I didn't reuse ANY of the OEM parts, used the spring supplied with the kit. Also, good idea to lube the parts before you put it all together, like the brass piston, O-rings, spring, etc. Another good suggestion to put something under the work area, to catch any parts that might drop, which is highly likely during installation.
 
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#7 ·
For those of you that installed the heavier main spring that came with GFB DV+ did you get a fault code? The instructions say if I use the heavier spring the ECU "may" produce a fault code P2261. Just wondering what "may" means 20% chance or 80% chance?
 
#8 ·
I used everything that came in the package, no issues
 
#11 ·
Main issues we have doing mods to this car, is dropping tools in the engine bay, and since we don't know where they landed, we always fear that they may have landed on belt or something like that.

Changed oil a week or so ago, mechanic gave in an L key, which I dropped when I installed the DV + 2 years ago.
 
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#13 ·
I think the only problem I've heard about installing the GFB DV+ (other than dropping a bolt in the belly pan) was the electrical DV connector was loose after installation and the owner was unable to use the Cruise Control. He replugged the connector again and problem was solved.
 
#14 ·
Thanks guys. I did install Sunday, used all the parts in the package. All went well. No codes and I do notice a difference: don't lose all the boost in between shifts and I don't get that big spurt when the turbo lag kicks in, feels smoother.
 
#21 ·
I’m installing mine this Saturday. Should I use the included spring or the OEM one?
 
#22 ·
I had the same dilemma and decided to go with the new main spring as reducing the lag between gear changes was the primary reason I bought the GFB. I took the view that if I did end up with a fault code, worse case scenario, I would have to replace this with OEM spring so the GFB which would still provide a benefit - greater reliability than the original set up
 
#23 ·
15k miles, new spring used. No codes. All well.

I would recommend servicing this every 10k miles. I noticed after 8 that it wasnt as lubed as I would like and there was some wear on the main piston. Re oiled and cleaned it up.
 
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#24 ·
15k miles, new spring used. No codes. All well.

I would recommend servicing this every 10k miles. I noticed after 8 that it wasnt as lubed as I would like and there was some wear on the main piston. Re oiled and cleaned it up.
Sorry to see that you are having problems with your DV+ ....considering your recent boost leak troubles, I pulled out the packaging for the GFB DV+ to check.......first of all it is a precision made piston designed and manufactured to ISO 9001 standards using latest multi axis CNC machines, so, if you drop, damage or clean it up (polish/rub) the minute clearance tolerance will be lost. The leaflet that comes with the product is highlighted in red saying.....
Important ! All GFB pistons are checked for fitment...............it ends with...invisible damage that could result in boost leaks or sticking.
May be worth an email to them at sales@gfb.com.au to discuss it. Many members here have these fitted, some years ago now and I don't recall a problem in any threads, plus Brian Goodwin recommends this mod as his number one mod "If you only do one mod". Not trying to be clever here Mate, just helpful to you getting the very best out of your unit. It's a one year warranty however...they may want to have your unit returned (if no other failures or wear problems) I saw nothing on servicing requirements so their suggestion of possible boost leak could be relevant to you.
Otherwise..£112.00 on ebay uk, quick swap out and peace of mind, Cheers
ron
 
#25 ·
Go with the instructions that came with it. Unless you replace the plug badly you wont have a problem. I didn't even unplug mine but you have to be sure you don't drop anything, it may be safer to do it away from the cavernous pit of no return.

There's a couple of yoo toob vids that reference the 124 but neither did the following:-

Stuff a towel underneath the unit to catch the things you drop (a screw WAS dropped in the vid).
Put some engine oil on the piston.

Other than that, easy peasy.
 
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#28 ·
Hahahah very fair point. Yes, i recommend cleaning and lubing at own risk!

The boost leak (may help others)

  • the outlet flange is well documented as a weak point. The long edge has no bolt and the gasket doesn't seal well past 22psi
  • this is partly because the flexi pipe attached actually PULLS that flange outward, making it worse.
  • I cleaned it all up, hand tightened thr 3 bolts, then with 24psi in the system moved the pipe and bolt torques until no more hissing. This needed a couple of hefty zip ties on the pipe to hold the pipe in place against the metal frame, then torque the bolts.

Not ideal, but it's better than stock and I'm pleased with the pressure loss rate.

For us in the UK with right hand drive, the ec option is hard to stomach as pipes need modding and that after spending £1000 including ship/custom.
 
#30 ·
Absolutely lube with engine oil. That's on all the documentation i have seen for the installation. It's quite tight without lube
 
#32 ·
I thought that would be the case otherwise I could pop up to the factory and ask them lol.

Did a quick random survey on eight U toob vids. Different cars, different years, got a 50% hit rate regarding lubrication. Just goes to show that reading the manufacturers instructions are imperative before relying on DIY you tubers. Additionally seek the knowledge on this forum.
 
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#34 ·
In use itll get lubed by oil blowing by through the inlet. But good to give it a head start.
 
#37 ·
Agreed........No need to disconnect battery, lay a rag under unit assembly and remember to remove it after job, ensure that you push in and hold in place the lightly lubricated BRASS PISTON against it's spring as you offer it up to the attached to turbo part of assembly or the spring will shoot/drop out and yes...make sure the yellow electric connector clicks in.
 
#38 ·
Re: Disconnecting the battery/Installing the GFB DV+, quoting from the DV+ install how-to thread by EuroCompulsion's Greg...



So I installed my DV+ over the weekend. Now my malfunction indicator light is illuminated on the instrument cluster. I've gone back and triple checked my work, but it's still on. What should I be looking for? The instructions weren't difficult and i even watched the video to make sure I was doing everything right.
It could be unrelated. We would need to know what the code is to be sure. For now, let's just assume it's related. If that's the case it'most likely that the electrical plug isn't seated properly.

Greg
Also try disconnecting the negative battery terminal and reconnecting after a moment. That's usually step #1 when doing anything electrical, and tends to get skipped over ;)
This is a good point. For those of you who are new to these newer Fiats and Alfas, please allow me to explain.

If the battery is connected, these cars are never really "off". In the old days, if the ignition wasn't on, about the only thing that had any power was the clock and radio pre-sets. Those days are gone.

The new Fiats and Alfas run some system checks and even turn some things on, when the ignition is off. Some things are triggered by the door opening, some by the doors unlocking. The bottom line is that if the battery is connected, you can't be sure what it's doing. So if you disconnect something with the battery connected, there is a chance you will interrupt some check, especially if you recently opened the door, shut the car off, or unlocked it. This will often cause a cel.

So as ameridan said, you can avoid a lot of problems by making it a rule that you always disconnect the battery before doing anything electrical on the car. Then again, if you have a $7 app for you smart phone or tablet, you can reset those codes anyway, and if you are modding the car, you should have one of those apps.

Greg

It's not mandatory, it just may prevent a CEL from popping up after the install if the car goes through some random check while you have the DV connector disconnected.
 
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