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Brian Karwan is a good guy, glad he got you taken care of. When installing mine i checked, double checked, triple checked. You aren't the first person to make that mistake.
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #642
Got the Lower Control arm completed before dinner. One bushing comes out real easy with just a shot of WD-40, the recieving tube, and washer pull, the other sleeved one is just like the knuckle. It is insanely hard to get anything to line up. It really needs a custom push cup made with an inner lip that is slightly drafted to center it but not expand when seated and the lip does the work.

So I got even MORE creative this time. The center pin is wider than the bushing itself and it needed to come out to try and get at the shell flush and with no load on the washers until contact with it. I drilled that rubber every which direction I could get the 3/16" bit through to eat all the rubber away until the pin came free. Now just the shell to deal with.

Put my rig back on and still no movement. Actually harder to align now with no center sleeve to guide the rod a little. I was a Jim Duggan fan so I broke out the HACKSAW, strung it through the eye and gently cut through the shell. Another win in the end.

Replacement camber bushings due in Friday. Guess I'll start popping the other side loose tomorrow and get to work on it.

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I messed up, I put them in 180 out. FML. That will take all the wind out of your sails. I'm sure I will figure something out and worst case is I pay my stupid tax and buy another set or maybe I can ask Karcepts directly for just the 2 inserts. The moment I stuck it in to mark the rubbing spot and there wasn't one.....

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I feel your pain. Not everything goes to plan or works out as we envision. And we learn something in the process.

You know this already but I recently upgraded the suspension on my Jeep Wrangler. For some stupid reason I decided bigger was better when it came to shocks so I put these massive 2.5" Fox shocks on. They were so stiff and the ride was total crap so I decided to take them off to send back to Fox to be revalved for a more compliant ride. Good thing I did since I did not have the foresight to see that the rear track bar bracket would start eating the shock away. Don't know why I didn't think a shock that's an inch thicker than the previous one wouldn't have a problem. So now to make these shocks work I have to cut off that bracket and weld a new one on.

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #644
I have a gouge in my left ring finger right now that looks almost like that. Its deep enough to see down in the valley!
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #645
I wrestled the camber bushings out of the UCA and put the remaining pair in to get the side done. Even with the perfectly sized cups that came with the kit, the replacement bushings took more force to get out than the OEM.

Waiting on an M14x1.5 Die to hopefully clean the end thread up enough to get the nuts on both ball joints. I watched a video on the separators today and while they still don't say a torque point to stop, it is the consensus to stop before it flies apart and to bang on the knuckle like the old days and tighten a little more, bang, etc. They all state for safety reasons though and not ruining your ball joint stud at all.

I followed the Fiat manual. Just says use tool to separate. Granted, I should have looked for the video prior but it seemed pretty straight forward.
 

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Discussion Starter #646
A little WFH today :whistle:

Popped the other knuckle loose. Took it easier but still galled the first thread on the upper a little bit. The lower, I put the nut back on just until it was flush with the end of the stud and that left about 1/8'-3/16" gap to pop it loose. So on the 4th and last one, I got it right. No threads messed up. The other thing I realized is that the upper is a 12mm stud not 14mm like the lower, so I have to go find another die! Why they aren't stepped on the end like the Tie Rod stud, I don't know.

Bushing swap took about an hour this time. Amazing once you got a system figured out.

Ball joints run over with a die and all back together! Set both front to max camber on the bolt. Forgot to go back to the rears and set them out also.

Only took 8 days....

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #647 (Edited)
Here's some better shots that you can see the camber better. Not the final, just wanted to see how pronounced max was and I have no idea the angle. Maybe I'll play with the gyro in the iPhone and see if I can get a rough idea.

Edit: Left -2.4 Right -2.9 with the unofficial iPhone Level at ~16" ride height.


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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #649
Blackbird Roll Bar arrived yesterday. No pictures until its installed per the instructions! I had to figure out how to take the soft top apart to reclaim the main connection rails that the seat belts attach to, completely forgot that part. 2 6mm Allen bolts release 2 of the arms and a 5mm had to be drilled out since they decided to tack weld it on the backside. Found that out after stripping the head, it's very soft metal.

AWR Racing sent me some photos of the new engine mounts. Should be finishing them up soon.

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Man, you are not compromising one bit. I take it this is primarily going to be a track vehicle? I can't wait to see what you come up with. I guess Greg is doing the same thing but you're definitely more detailed. This is a great public service. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #651
Man, you are not compromising one bit. I take it this is primarily going to be a track vehicle? I can't wait to see what you come up with. I guess Greg is doing the same thing but you're definitely more detailed. This is a great public service. Thank you.
It has kinda snowballed into an all out track car that will still be driven until I can't register it anymore. With all the time on my hands and going insane from boredom, I read and research and find something else that might need to be changed to be able to handle the new power and torture. Might as well get it all done now while everything is much more accessible and not another catastrophic reactionary repair.

I think Greg is stopping at just the short block work and looking for a more reliable and safe 250ish HP at the wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #653
Swagelok fittings for the clutch flow controller and the Deyeme Racing differential mount have come in. Block machining is complete and Greg will be reassembling the short block over the next couple of days. Just in time for the hottest and most humid part of the year!
 

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I like how you have taken what would be at least a years worth of work minimum when things were normal down to a few months of lock in time. I've seen more details on the bits of our car than I would have otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #655
I like how you have taken what would be at least a years worth of work minimum when things were normal down to a few months of lock in time. I've seen more details on the bits of our car than I would have otherwise.
Pure boredom and can't do anything else right now other than work. I'm learning a lot and love sharing what I find and figure out so that others don't have to go through it blind. Downside is that it's costing more! Still won't hit the original dealership cost to just put a new OEM engine in when this part is done though. Getting real close now but I have upgraded so much that all that will be left is the rest of the drivetrain and that has already been researched, priced, and ready to go when I am for about $6k.

Here's the Deyeme Racing diff mount. They fill all the air gaps with Delrin on an OEM mount. Less labor intensive for me to try and get the bushings out and replace with the Energy Suspension versions although they would probably be the absolute best since they have the collared parts that extend all the way out to the end of the center pin to provide even more support against the mounting. They are sleeved and have the lip that has to be removed also and those SUCK to push out with what I have available to me and probably even more so being around 3". A hydraulic puller would be perfect for this though.

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Also pictured is the flow controller with the Swagelok fittings installed so I can cut the clutch line near the master cylinder then using the 6mm compression fittings to put it in line and very little to bleed. Once its installed, it never has to be bled again when swapping out the jets to adjust the slip. Borrowed a tubing cutter from work, we use stainless 1/4" tube everywhere and if this car hadn't been METRIC, I could have really used more stuff from work. I guarantee we have these compression fittings in 1/4" to 3/8" male.

But if anyone else wants to do this upgrade for racing to reduce clutch dump stress regardless of power, the part number is there and it is about $56 for the pair with a 6 week lead currently. They had a spec drawing but had NEVER made any. Very unusual combination of 3/8" male straight to 6mm compression, would normally be 1/4". 10mm Male to 6mm compression, they have those all day long in stock. The alternative is to have custom 6mm compression to AN-3 Female to the AN-3 Male that come on the FCV and still cut the line or have custom hoses/tubes made with the pushlock and AN-3 and that's probably a WHOLE lot more than $56 plus a lot harder to replace end to end. Then the full bleeding... I vote these!

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Discussion Starter #656
All machining on the block is complete and @Greg is putting it together now. It's getting serious now, I even have a total price and making the payment today. I will say that I am PLEASANTLY surprised at the final cost. It's about half of what I was expecting and had budgeted for (Race Top is now "technically" FREE!). Most of that savings is Greg doing all the tear down prep and reassembly in between his flying all over the globe so the machinist didn't have to and saved on labor rates. While this has taken forever due to all the insane circumstances coming together at one time and wreaking havoc, I cannot express how grateful I am to Greg and the EuroCompulsion team with all the help that they didn't have to do at all.

There are so many small but HUGE details that I have long forgotten about engine building that he has been crucial for. Quite a few are covered in his videos but the best set up question yet is from last night. "Do you plan on running Nitrous at all?" Plan, absolutely. Just not yet. But that changes how much ring gap is needed to compensate for the extra thermal expansion and pressure so they don't bind, scrape, and destroy the lands. Sounds familiar, huh?

@Phillip33 I know you have been busy with building the gorgeous deck, but time is drawing near my friend!
 

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