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I’m envious. The wrinkle effect is so much better on your valve cover. Same powder, but the professional that did my cover made it look like orange peel not wrinkle finish.

Dan
@depotdan I'm still sorry about that...she's always done great work for me. Breaks my heart knowing I referred her to you. @Phillip33 Sir you are a JACK of ALL Trades! Wonderful, awesome job.

hmmm maybe that should be a " Phillip of all trades" ?

Congrats to @Calehedron if nothing ever runs...she's gonna look like she's running a hundred miles an hour just sitting still. But when she is running...shes gonna look like she's going a thousand!

aloha mike
 

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@depotdan I'm still sorry about that...she's always done great work for me. Breaks my heart knowing I referred her to you. @Phillip33 Sir you are a JACK of ALL Trades! Wonderful, awesome job.

hmmm maybe that should be a " Phillip of all trades" ?

Congrats to @Calehedron if nothing ever runs...she's gonna look like she's running a hundred miles an hour just sitting still. But when she is running...shes gonna look like she's going a thousand!

aloha mike
No worries Mike. I went into it with open eyes. The effect is there. Just not up close. She wasn’t happy with the result and did discount it some. It was her first time using a wrinkle finish. Phillip said that she may not have realized that it is processed differently than a regular powder. Phillip has the process down and has done several projects. Next up is a translucent red on my Cravenspeed e-brake handle to match the Raceseng gear shift knob on my MINI.

Aloha, Dan
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #663
Roll Bar is 80% installed. I got ahead of myself in the end and forgot to put the rear carpet back in before the front fascia with the cubbys and glove box. So it comes back out in the morning, maybe.

Instructions are OK. Trimming details could have been better, I cut too much in a few places trying to fit but needed to cut somewhere else instead that I couldn't really see in the instructions but I figured it all out. I've seen some caps to put on to cover the gaping holes but not a big deal with the seats all the way back. Still have the 2 rear corner pieces to cut holes in and two other L shaped plastic trimmed up a bit but it may just get trashed.

The rear landing legs SUCK to bolt to the body. They were about 1/4 to 3/8" inboard of the humps on both sides so the whole use the visible top hole as your pilot for drilling didn't line up right once cranked down (approach angle changes!) with the backing plate to use as the template for the other 2 holes in the rear feet. If that backing plate isn't oriented perfectly with holes you cannot see, the holes you drill could be WAY OFF. Then there is barely enough room to fit the nuts on the 2 lower bolts coming in from the wheel wells into the feet. I struggled a bit with my big mitts and all the prior damage getting ripped open again. Especially the rear most, I had to stop and take an Anger Management break at one point.

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #664
Of course it had to come out! Not hard, but annoying. The big corner pans are a pain to trim and get lined up properly. I left off the 2 corner wraps that have to almost be cut in 2 to clear the rear leg all the way so they ain't going back on. Seats dropped in and 4 of 5 points of the harness connected. 5 isn't required but will put it in when I decide to change to a true race seat that has the slot for that belt. It is not meant to catch you, only to hold the buckle at the right spot on the belly/across the hips if the lap anchor points have little down angle. I got a good angle and the buckle sits properly on me.

I am pleased with the way it turned out but I am completely worn down and cut up, gonna take all week to recover then on to the diff mount and my parking brake fix idea.

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That is BAD looking!!!!!! Can't wait to see and hear it when you get it done. Enjoy the break.....you've been killin' here lately it seems.
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #666
That is BAD looking!!!!!! Can't wait to see and hear it when you get it done. Enjoy the break.....you've been killin' here lately it seems.
It is hot but it helps with the stiffness and weight loss too! Burning off lots of extra calories, sweating everything out, and drinking only water until I am done for the day. Only supposed to be 100 this coming weekend but the humidity is rising daily. First rain for about 20 minutes this morning. Monsoon season is almost here.
 

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It is hot but it helps with the stiffness and weight loss too! Burning off lots of extra calories, sweating everything out, and drinking only water until I am done for the day. Only supposed to be 100 this coming weekend but the humidity is rising daily. First rain for about 20 minutes this morning. Monsoon season is almost here.
We did not get one drop up here.....saw the clouds driving to the office today. Monsoon is coming it sounds like.
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #668
Been thinking and reading about the suspension bushings, preload, and whatnot again. Rubber bushings with the big center pins DEFINITELY need to be tightened under load, while poly bushings that are greased do not is the consensus. Well I remembered that 3 on the rear knuckles are still rubber even if the frame connection is poly. So I jacked up the passenger knuckle until the body just started to come off the EZ Jack and loosened the 3 bolts on the rubber bushings. Couldn't tell much on the first 2 but I heard the bushing creak when I loosened the strut bolt for sure. Torqued those 3 back to 54ft/lb and moved to the other side and repeat. I measured the droop this time from floor to bottom of rotor and it was 1/2" difference in knuckle hang after tightening the bolts under load.

So even with the majority swapped out, it still makes a difference on any rubber bushing. I may do the same with the front to test but all rubber on the CAs was replaced and there is no strut bushing at all there. I could move the entire knuckle up and down before placing the strut and it stayed where you pushed it within its range.

Now on to the rear Camber debacle! I wanted to match the rears a bit more with the front on the negative camber so I referenced my Energy Suspension instructions again since I remembered one of the bushings that was not replaced and just re-tightened as the TOE bushing and it is connected to an eccentric bolt. I loosened the OTHER one since that should be the Camber bolt and set it to max outboard on both sides, threw the wheels on and dropped her to the floor.

WOW!!! Talk about a pigeon-toed girl!! 🤣 So back up she went and put the #2 Trailing Link (TOE!!) back to what it was and then ran the other eccentric bolt connected to the "toe" bushing in ES instructions to set the CAMBER to max negative. Much better!! Back to facing straight forward with the little top lean in like its supposed to be. So, forward bolt is CAMBER. Rear most is TOE for the rears. The Fiat Manual has an error in the Suspension tables too, they label both rear charts as TOE even though the 2nd part is setting up the Camber. The Front is opposite in a way, the forward on the LCA is the CAMBER, rear is the CASTER, and of course Steering Tie Rod is the TOE up there.

Since I was there with tape measure in hand, I measured the rear droop while I was at it. About 1" on both sides so the preload on the coilovers is fairly matched but I need almost 2" when done. The Feal tech told me 10mm all around but the previous set of springs were set more in the front than the rear (6mm and 3mm) and probably what I need to do here is reduce some of the rear preload vs front. Ride height was off side to side by ~3/4" passenger high so I measured the gaps between the coilover locking rings and I have that side ~1/2" longer. I'll play with that to get used to setting everything up while I wait for the front end weight or engine as some might call it, haven't seen it in a while.

Thus concludes the July COVID-19 Intermediate Suspension Setup class. Hopefully Aug-Sep syllabus will include Engine Assembly and Installation....
 

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emm don’t mean to sound like a jackass but are you running stock seats with normal 4 point?

Does this 4 point has ASM technology?

If it doesn’t in a crash it will submarine and cause more damage than stock 3 point harness.

I would not recommend these. If you want to run harness best thing to do is get a whole setup

Bucket seat, 5/6 point harness, SA helmet with Hans devices.

Or just keep it all original stock.
Most clubs won’t let you run with 4 points unless it’s Schroth 4 point ASM, and FIA Approved.
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #670
I have read all the rules and know what I need to have right now for the drag strip and the stock belt covers solo autocross for sure. Not sure what you mean by "normal" 4-point unless you mean the unrated stuff you get for UTVs, sand rails, and general offroad use. This one is 3" SFI 16.1 rated 4-Point minimum (it has the 5th belt in the box), 5 point would be "better" or course (but labeled DANGEROUS on a stock seat without a slot or hole for almost direct downward connection) and I will change the seat eventually. Probably around the time this harness expires in June 21 and I upgrade the rest of the drive train.

The lap belt angle has a lot to do with the 5th or 6th point and ASM. That belt is not to keep you from sliding out and under the harness as much as it is to keep the BUCKLE of the other 4 points in the right spot on the hip line so you don't come out of it IF the lap belt angle is too high and the buckle rides up. That's all the ASM technology for 4 point means, keeping the harness low centered without the 5th point. Trust me, I read a LOT and I ask questions of those that would be doing the actual inspection for the type of racing I plan on doing to start. I made sure the lap connections are in the lower corners and not straight back into the rear wall for that reason.

If I ever get to the point of balls out racing on a crowded track, I will take it to those levels of safety required. I am not trying to circumvent anything or my safety.
 

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Discussion Starter #671
Also, when I swap out the seat etc next year, I plan on adding 3/8" eye bolts for the 3 lower connections so I can use the hook in belts with gate locks instead of straight bolt in tabs. Will make swapping every 2 years a bit easier or if I want to take the lower parts out completely and tuck the shoulder belts behind the seat to go OEM belt.
 

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Also, when I swap out the seat etc next year, I plan on adding 3/8" eye bolts for the 3 lower connections so I can use the hook in belts with gate locks instead of straight bolt in tabs. Will make swapping every 2 years a bit easier or if I want to take the lower parts out completely and tuck the shoulder belts behind the seat to go OEM belt.
I see, OK
just making sure

Now as for bucket seat I have the Sparco QRT R right now
it's the largest seat we can get it the car lol

It fits nicely and pretty comfy for a bucket seat
I have 6 point harness but looking for another solution because if I want to use my
3 point I need to use the seatbelt extender which put it at a really awkward position.
So most of the time I just have to put the 6 point on the street ( which is not good), because it just feels werid

for the airbag light, you can jump the harness with a resistor 1/4W 2.2 ohm which will take care of it with a strong tape
However, there is a better solution from Japan which just clips in with a clip instead of jumping resistors

I got to say I kind of regret doing this now.....
If you give me another choice I would keep the 3 point OEM and just buy a used Recaro
 

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I see, OK
just making sure

Now as for bucket seat I have the Sparco QRT R right now
it's the largest seat we can get it the car lol

It fits nicely and pretty comfy for a bucket seat
I have 6 point harness but looking for another solution because if I want to use my
3 point I need to use the seatbelt extender which put it at a really awkward position.
So most of the time I just have to put the 6 point on the street ( which is not good), because it just feels werid

for the airbag light, you can jump the harness with a resistor 1/4W 2.2 ohm which will take care of it with a strong tape
However, there is a better solution from Japan which just clips in with a clip instead of jumping resistors

I got to say I kind of regret doing this now.....
If you give me another choice I would keep the 3 point OEM and just buy a used Recaro
Actual photo of @Calehedron test driving the Recaros.

78135
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #676
This one is for @Chainringtattoo and a few others with this problem.

So the E-Brake issue with upgraded rear calipers turned out to be exactly what I thought it was! It's not just the new style holder and fulcrum rig but the slack left after the cables are pulled from a few of its holders to make slack to hook the new calipers up. They need to be pulled taught again and secured.

I loosened the take up nut on the handle a bit more to create even more slack for the fix. I pulled the cables back to their original spots but I couldn't get the snaps to stay in place after being ripped out of the thin aluminum plate. I used multiple thick cable ties to hold them as close to the original spots as possible.

First 2 are to the right.

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This is the tighter view over to the left cable

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Here is the result:

 

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This one is for @Chainringtattoo and a few others with this problem.

So the E-Brake issue with upgraded rear calipers turned out to be exactly what I thought it was! It's not just the new style holder and fulcrum rig but the slack left after the cables are pulled from a few of its holders to make slack to hook the new calipers up. They need to be pulled taught again and secured.

I loosened the take up nut on the handle a bit more to create even more slack for the fix. I pulled the cables back to their original spots but I couldn't get the snaps to stay in place after being ripped out of the thin aluminum plate. I used multiple thick cable ties to hold them as close to the original spots as possible.

First 2 are to the right.

View attachment 78192

View attachment 78193

This is the tighter view over to the left cable

View attachment 78194


Here is the result:

I've also been thinking that this was the issue all along. I don't think those plastic cable ties are going to last long. We need to figure out a more permanent solution to getting the cables where they need to be.
 
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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #678
I've also been thinking that this was the issue all along. I don't think those plastic cable ties are going to last long. We need to figure out a more permanent solution to getting the cables where they need to be.
I have thought about that and I think the screw down cable tie mounts would work. My nifty threaded insert gun will come in handy again! This was what I had to work with after the clips popped out while maneuvering the cables around.
 

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This one is for @Chainringtattoo and a few others with this problem.

So the E-Brake issue with upgraded rear calipers turned out to be exactly what I thought it was! It's not just the new style holder and fulcrum rig but the slack left after the cables are pulled from a few of its holders to make slack to hook the new calipers up. They need to be pulled taught again and secured.

I loosened the take up nut on the handle a bit more to create even more slack for the fix. I pulled the cables back to their original spots but I couldn't get the snaps to stay in place after being ripped out of the thin aluminum plate. I used multiple thick cable ties to hold them as close to the original spots as possible.

First 2 are to the right.

View attachment 78192

View attachment 78193

This is the tighter view over to the left cable

View attachment 78194


Here is the result:

Not that I don't trust you, but could you park your car on a hill and test it? Don't give me that "but I don't have an engine" excuse. Flintstone it!

78204
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #680
Ok, Barney. Here she is in the driveway for the first time in 9 months to the day! It holds a lot better, definitely not just like it was with OEM calipers but I trust it more now than before. The 2x4 chocks are back a bit, no foot on the brake. I pushed on it and it took some heaving to get it move an inch or so then stopped. I think I need to let the adjustment nut out a little more so I can get the handle more into the cam lobe to increase the pressure with less work. I know there isn't enough clicks from start to where I give out.

I went over everything with the power wand and wiped down. No more dried coolant and battery acid/baking soda everywhere. Now to clean up the garage a bit before putting her back.

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