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I’ll need to get under mine at some point and play with the parking brake cables. I’m thinking some stainless steel zip ties.
 
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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Discussion Starter #682
Thanks, Dave! You just reminded me I have 200 SS ties that came with the heat wrap kit. That's a bit less work than trying to drill holes and put the inserts in for the cable tie holders.
 

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You’ve seen the slope of my driveway. You think it would hold on mine?
 

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Discussion Starter #684
You’ve seen the slope of my driveway. You think it would hold on mine?
One way to find out!

That's all the slope I got and why I pushed on it to see it if would give. It creaked back about an inch, then grabbed again and I think the handle needs a bit more adjustment. The nearest hill is 40 miles East heading into Superior and then on to Top of the World, AZ.
 

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Discussion Starter #685
Think 480+lbs of lead on the front subframe and 36lb sitting on the rear deck would simulate everything back in? Maybe one 80lb box in the trunk for fuel, midpipe, and braces. Should I put 250 in the drivers seat? I haven't cleared one shelf of muffins yet, plenty of ballast on hand! I am going to play around with the coilovers a bit just to get the hang of it. I think I have gotten all the major things completed and the rest is better done after the block is in and/or running.

Once I get the coilovers set, I will put the nose back on to try to get the splitter in place. Might place the hood after that to roll her back out for some more pictures.

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Discussion Starter #686
So I added "me" to the driver's seat and put 76lbs in the trunk for more of a fully loaded for driving simulation. Ended up backing the front spring collars off 4mm for ~6mm of preload (Just for reference, the original springs came 6F/3R preload but was told 10 all around for these as a start) and got right at 2" or 50.8mm of droop and then ran down to 13" ride height. I missed the passenger side by a little too much low and its 12.75" but I am worn out from the heat again. The level shows its close but passenger low. I'll fix that in the morning and then move to the rears. It is REALLY odd seeing how low it was on the ground after being in the air for 9 months but it is down there now!

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Discussion Starter #687
Got everything set up to 50mm droop and 12.5" ride height and it's looking good. Put the nose and hood on to get a full look at it. You can tell they need a wash and rub down also. Looking like the splitter and brake cooling ducts are next. Fog lamps have been removed and those holes will be the intake.

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Thanks, Dave! You just reminded me I have 200 SS ties that came with the heat wrap kit. That's a bit less work than trying to drill holes and put the inserts in for the cable tie holders.
Let me know how it goes.
 
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The silver calipers really pop with the black wheels.
 
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Looks brilliant!
 
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Interesting. We have the same Dekagram wheels, but I'm running a 16" 225/45 with a overall diameter of 23.9" and you are running a 17" 235/45 with a overall diameter of 25.3". I can see the extra 1" in height of ground clearance.

Coincidentally I'm shopping for a 17x8 w/ 235/45r17 for my Volvo right now. Lots of rubber on there. Should give a good ride even with the stiffer and lower suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter #692
Interesting. We have the same Dekagram wheels, but I'm running a 16" 225/45 with a overall diameter of 23.9" and you are running a 17" 235/45 with a overall diameter of 25.3". I can see the extra 1" in height of ground clearance.

Coincidentally I'm shopping for a 17x8 w/ 235/45r17 for my Volvo right now. Lots of rubber on there. Should give a good ride even with the stiffer and lower suspension.
I will be swapping to 245/40 once everything else is in place and will drop down a little bit more, I think those are 24.7".
 

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Discussion Starter #694
That looks amazing!!!! You have put a lot of extra love into that beast. You still shooting for 400 HP or ???????
That is the end goal for peak and in limited use. 353BHP/300WHP will most likely be the "everyday" power tune as not to always push it but who knows at this point? It's still gonna take a bit to get there after the build because I have to get everything dialed in for the stock injectors and fuel pressure first and then swap over, change the injector offsets (I have that data already though), and then possibly retune. Then there is the exhaust cam that will get swapped once everything else is stable to get rid of the middle slump and good for a higher redline if everything is still pulling and wanting more.

With that being said, I went out and measured the camber now that the ride height is set. Maybe I should put the weight back in the seat but it could be the ever so slight left to right front to rear draft of my garage floor (did reference the level app to floor by each wheel though) just looking at the difference side to side. The LF UCA probably needs to be loosened and shoved back a bit like the instructions state. I thought I did and maybe I did but with a 1.3* difference side to side at same max on the camber bolt (I think), I may have missed it or didn't push hard enough when torquing down. I should also look at the reference marks to see how much of a difference it had on the bolts to begin with.

LF: -2.9 RF:-4.2
LR:-3.7 RR:-4.0

The rear surprise me, but nothing is official. I didn't think they would get TO -3 much less well over it with no other modifications or shims of some sort.

Why -3? From what I have read, that is what is needed to get 245/40s to fit up front at that ride height and it's a good, aggressive track setting so why not have the capability? I really like the Michelin Pilots and want to use the 4S but at $221 a tire, the Federal 595RS-RR for $118 to make sure that size fits and works well seems like the better choice for now. Maybe I will like the Federal better. The one kid at Fiat in the Rockies was running them on a pure stock automatic and he came in 2nd overall behind @Chainringtattoo and his dialed in for that track car. The price is great for tires I will burn through quickly in PHX anyway but the Michelin's have treated me very well here also.
 

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Discussion Starter #695
BTW, it helps if the front wheels are perfectly straight ahead when measuring Camber. Left is -3.2 (almost positive its the UCA not pushed back as deep as it can go) and Right is -4.0 when straight and both rears have settled into -4.0. I will put them at -2 for anything other than drag racing and that's a big 0. I've left the ballast in the bay and trunk sorta like how they stack all the tile shingles on a house roof frame here to allow everything to settle before hanging the drywall. I roll it around in the garage and bounce all the corners every so often when I'm bored.

The big reveal today is the PTP Blankets arrived after being delayed a day on the West Side of town due to the big train derailment and fire at the Tempe Town Lake Bridge over the 202 and the water yesterday. I'll just let the pictures speak for themselves:

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That's sexy and badass right there! They are snug and well formed to not cause any clearance issues but still breathing room inside and shouldn't cause any of the degradation problems that wrapping could lead to.

As posted a bit back, the powder coating of the Valve Cover, Compressor Housing, and Turbo Bracket was completed by @Phillip33 and they turned out great as well. Motor Mounts due in soon, trying to order the race top again but haven't heard back from the shop on the raw stock status in a few days, and of course the rods are being re-fitted with new pin bearings at Molnar so holding up the block assembly AGAIN.

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That's impressive. Sweet eye candy for sure.
 
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Discussion Starter #697
I found another thing I want, the Paco Motorsports DIY Alignment Stands. Talk about perfect combination of simplicity and cost. Make a set of welled cradles to put scales in, you can corner balance, set ride height, and align. Was playing around with the alignment again today just to see what I could set with very crude tools and using the alignment tables in the manual to see how close its reference marks are to true. They are pretty close, I set all 4 wheels to what I wanted on the ground just using pre measurements and the tables to subtract. Rears are -1.5 and front -3 still holding 12.5" ride height after a roll and bounce.

The only thing I haven't measured more precisely is the caster. I need to mark the +/- 20* rotation on the floor a bit better but Paco references 3/4 turn of the steering wheel for approx 20*, I get 6.6* of caster at max but I am not sure if that is 20* at the wheel exactly. A little bit of rotation can make a several tenths of a degree difference in tilt angle.

Race Top has been ordered and I have commissioned "Mouseball" from Instagram to create a design for the top of it that will be put on at a wrap shop. I gave him a basic concept and look forward to seeing what he comes up with.
 

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Discussion Starter #698
Yeah, couldn't let it go. Went out and calculated/drew the +/-20* rotation and came up with ~7.3* caster for each side. It came out to about 330* of steering rotation instead of the 270* reference for Mazda. Still nothing official but that makes more sense with better angle measurements. That magnetic laser level comes in handy!
 

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I found another thing I want, the Paco Motorsports DIY Alignment Stands. Talk about perfect combination of simplicity and cost. Make a set of welled cradles to put scales in, you can corner balance, set ride height, and align. Was playing around with the alignment again today just to see what I could set with very crude tools and using the alignment tables in the manual to see how close its reference marks are to true. They are pretty close, I set all 4 wheels to what I wanted on the ground just using pre measurements and the tables to subtract. Rears are -1.5 and front -3 still holding 12.5" ride height after a roll and bounce.

The only thing I haven't measured more precisely is the caster. I need to mark the +/- 20* rotation on the floor a bit better but Paco references 3/4 turn of the steering wheel for approx 20*, I get 6.6* of caster at max but I am not sure if that is 20* at the wheel exactly. A little bit of rotation can make a several tenths of a degree difference in tilt angle.

Race Top has been ordered and I have commissioned "Mouseball" from Instagram to create a design for the top of it that will be put on at a wrap shop. I gave him a basic concept and look forward to seeing what he comes up with.
I looked at that a while back. I talked to the guys at Flyin' Miata about it and came to the conclusion I was a lot better off just paying $80 for an alignment when I needed one.
 

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Discussion Starter #700
I looked at that a while back. I talked to the guys at Flyin' Miata about it and came to the conclusion I was a lot better off just paying $80 for an alignment when I needed one.
Agreed for you. I will be swapping racing styles and daily driving as well as needing to set up the 500 when Chase is ready to dig in that deep. Angie is itching for a car of her own, so I might as well stock the place like a full shop at this point. That and for whatever reason, I find this alignment stuff really cool to tinker with. It kinda reminds me of the heated pedestal leveling procedure I do on the beast I keep in line at work. For under $1000 and lifetime alignment changes to go with my ADD, it would break even pretty quick. Not a must have, but it would be a very welcomed addition to the garage. Plus, there are a few more Spider owners popping up in the valley and I can trade services!

Don't think I haven't eyeballed the fully computerized alignment/wheel balancing stations in the mid 4 figure range! I can see myself acquiring a wheel and tire addiction like Jordan at ECHQ. One day.....
 
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