I’ll need to get under mine at some point and play with the parking brake cables. I’m thinking some stainless steel zip ties.
One way to find out!You’ve seen the slope of my driveway. You think it would hold on mine?
I will be swapping to 245/40 once everything else is in place and will drop down a little bit more, I think those are 24.7".Interesting. We have the same Dekagram wheels, but I'm running a 16" 225/45 with a overall diameter of 23.9" and you are running a 17" 235/45 with a overall diameter of 25.3". I can see the extra 1" in height of ground clearance.
Coincidentally I'm shopping for a 17x8 w/ 235/45r17 for my Volvo right now. Lots of rubber on there. Should give a good ride even with the stiffer and lower suspension.
That is the end goal for peak and in limited use. 353BHP/300WHP will most likely be the "everyday" power tune as not to always push it but who knows at this point? It's still gonna take a bit to get there after the build because I have to get everything dialed in for the stock injectors and fuel pressure first and then swap over, change the injector offsets (I have that data already though), and then possibly retune. Then there is the exhaust cam that will get swapped once everything else is stable to get rid of the middle slump and good for a higher redline if everything is still pulling and wanting more.That looks amazing!!!! You have put a lot of extra love into that beast. You still shooting for 400 HP or ???????
I looked at that a while back. I talked to the guys at Flyin' Miata about it and came to the conclusion I was a lot better off just paying $80 for an alignment when I needed one.I found another thing I want, the Paco Motorsports DIY Alignment Stands. Talk about perfect combination of simplicity and cost. Make a set of welled cradles to put scales in, you can corner balance, set ride height, and align. Was playing around with the alignment again today just to see what I could set with very crude tools and using the alignment tables in the manual to see how close its reference marks are to true. They are pretty close, I set all 4 wheels to what I wanted on the ground just using pre measurements and the tables to subtract. Rears are -1.5 and front -3 still holding 12.5" ride height after a roll and bounce.
The only thing I haven't measured more precisely is the caster. I need to mark the +/- 20* rotation on the floor a bit better but Paco references 3/4 turn of the steering wheel for approx 20*, I get 6.6* of caster at max but I am not sure if that is 20* at the wheel exactly. A little bit of rotation can make a several tenths of a degree difference in tilt angle.
Race Top has been ordered and I have commissioned "Mouseball" from Instagram to create a design for the top of it that will be put on at a wrap shop. I gave him a basic concept and look forward to seeing what he comes up with.
Agreed for you. I will be swapping racing styles and daily driving as well as needing to set up the 500 when Chase is ready to dig in that deep. Angie is itching for a car of her own, so I might as well stock the place like a full shop at this point. That and for whatever reason, I find this alignment stuff really cool to tinker with. It kinda reminds me of the heated pedestal leveling procedure I do on the beast I keep in line at work. For under $1000 and lifetime alignment changes to go with my ADD, it would break even pretty quick. Not a must have, but it would be a very welcomed addition to the garage. Plus, there are a few more Spider owners popping up in the valley and I can trade services!I looked at that a while back. I talked to the guys at Flyin' Miata about it and came to the conclusion I was a lot better off just paying $80 for an alignment when I needed one.