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Discussion Starter · #842 ·
Oily for me no solid sludge
Time to engineer a tiny catch can! This could be HUGE in an oxymoronic way.....

Orientation may also mitigate it. I had the T inverted as my pictures show so the flow it choked coming straight down and then splitting sideways. Maybe orient it sideways so from turbo to WG is on the long straight and make a P trap loop in the hose coming back up the solenoid and plumb the DV off the side facing port.
 

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Imagine all that work you put in and repeating the failure because you concluded v clamp........
 
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Discussion Starter · #844 ·
Imagine all that work you put in and repeating the failure because you concluded v clamp........
You just don't know. I was having that conversation with my wife earlier. Even she was on me about changing EVERYTHING until this point. I wanted everything clean inside and out to look nice since I am starting over and just stumbled on this completely by dumb luck.

I've already poured a drink in honor of this moment.
 

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Sounds like ya owe your wife too
 
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Discussion Starter · #846 ·
Sounds like ya owe your wife too
It's the opposite, she didn't understand why I was spending so much money changing things that "worked" just fine. Now she's ok with the budget.
 

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Discussion Starter · #848 ·
Fascinating discovery, @Calehedron. I'll have to keep an eye on mine now.
Pure chance but completely eases my mind in so many ways. I am also glad that I kept an open mind and went back to check the WG arm travel that ended up ruling it out.

I don't want to cause any panic though, just awareness based on what I found and to fuel discussion on possible solutions or a BKM at the least.
 
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Discussion Starter · #849 ·
Talked to @Greg today about our builds and how to get everything going from a dry engine. I also let him know that I was only waiting on Toby then I am ready to start cranking.

The T junction was bugging me all day so I decided to rotate it and make a J trap underneath. Feel a little better about it now but I will still check on it. I also ordered a big assortment of spring hose clamps to put everywhere instead of the zip ties.

84032


Washed the intake hoses inside and out. The turbo neck and AOS ports were nasty, a thick greasy coating inside. Dressed up everything, proper routing, and tied up for maximum security and aesthetics. Battery and ECU will make it complete topside.

84033
 

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I moved up to a 1/4inch brass tee today. Bit tight to one side but helped a lot on the tube to the solenoid
 
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Pure chance but completely eases my mind in so many ways. I am also glad that I kept an open mind and went back to check the WG arm travel that ended up ruling it out.

I don't want to cause any panic though, just awareness based on what I found and to fuel discussion on possible solutions or a BKM at the least.
BKM: DV+ 🤣
 
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Talked to @Greg today about our builds and how to get everything going from a dry engine. I also let him know that I was only waiting on Toby then I am ready to start cranking.

The T junction was bugging me all day so I decided to rotate it and make a J trap underneath. Feel a little better about it now but I will still check on it. I also ordered a big assortment of spring hose clamps to put everywhere instead of the zip ties.

View attachment 84032

Washed the intake hoses inside and out. The turbo neck and AOS ports were nasty, a thick greasy coating inside. Dressed up everything, proper routing, and tied up for maximum security and aesthetics. Battery and ECU will make it complete topside.

View attachment 84033
As I predicted, it doesn’t even look like you had the engine out. You do good work, Ken.

I am also shocked—SHOCKED—that you do not have a red V4 intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #853 ·
BKM: DV+ 🤣
It has crossed my mind! But that Forge unit does look good.

As I predicted, it doesn’t even look like you had the engine out. You do good work, Ken.

I am also shocked—SHOCKED—that you do not have a red V4 intake.
I agree that they now look out of place with everything else. I am swapping the hoses when I swap out to the new Intercooler. Going Red this time around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #854 ·
Hahaha, I just can't leave well enough alone after I look at my own pictures or stare at the engine for a while. See if you can spot the changes...

84037
 

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Discussion Starter · #855 ·
Of course an advertisement for AutoPlumb would pop up on my Instagram NOW. I will and would have swapped out the entire heater line run if I had seen it earlier. That's what those 2 hard metal tubes coming up by the ECU tray are, run along the right wheel well, and they GET IN THE WAY when pulling or placing the engine. If those hoses were soft and could be tucked away, it would have been so much easier. Having it all hose and sleeved all the way to the front will also cut even MORE radiant heat on the intake side of the engine.

I will also convert a lot of the other lines to AN fittings over time, I like the way @depotdan setup looks on the catch can with them. More hose color options also!
 
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Discussion Starter · #857 ·
The blue shock brace brackets and blue washer tank lid are the sore thumbs to me. They should be red or black IMO, but it isn’t my engine bay.

Dan
Trust me, not a fan of the Cusco Blue either but I wasn't going to have it stripped and re-anodized just yet. I will get to it, I promise. The washer tank cap can be hit with the Mopar Red and Satin coat I used on the tensioner cover and dipstick handle.

I looked over those heater lines again with everything installed. I think it can be worked out in place but there is a hanger bracket or two that may need to be cut to separate the A/C line connected to them. All the extra hose and tubing used now vs what direct lines inside a thermal sleeve to the in and out of the block would be a HUGE improvement for room, thermal management, and most important...LOOKS better. I really wish I had thought about this before.

Best thing I have ordered under $20? The spring hose clip assortment box. Wish they came in Red, I am sure there are some out there but I didn't look past Amazon and I had no idea how many of each size I would need until I started putting them on and testing the fit. Of course I chewed up my fingertips again putting a ton of these on in tight places.

Pictures getting old yet? Sorry, not sorry!

84070


84071
 

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Trust me, not a fan of the Cusco Blue either but I wasn't going to have it stripped and re-anodized just yet. I will get to it, I promise. The washer tank cap can be hit with the Mopar Red and Satin coat I used on the tensioner cover and dipstick handle.

I looked over those heater lines again with everything installed. I think it can be worked out in place but there is a hanger bracket or two that may need to be cut to separate the A/C line connected to them. All the extra hose and tubing used now vs what direct lines inside a thermal sleeve to the in and out of the block would be a HUGE improvement for room, thermal management, and most important...LOOKS better. I really wish I had thought about this before.

Best thing I have ordered under $20? The spring hose clip assortment box. Wish they came in Red, I am sure there are some out there but I didn't look past Amazon and I had no idea how many of each size I would need until I started putting them on and testing the fit. Of course I chewed up my fingertips again putting a ton of these on in tight places.

Pictures getting old yet? Sorry, not sorry!

View attachment 84070

View attachment 84071
Ken....the brackets are steel . Strip and paint with the washer cap. The bar is aluminum. It’s good as is or you can anodize it later. The engine is looking killer.

Dan

Dan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #859 ·
Post work afterthoughts.... I found there are pliers for these clips, no more needle nose slipping and needing fingers to push them on. 2 pair, one angled for under $20. Staring at all those other dull gray clips is getting to me, gonna swap EVERYTHING dammit.

Now on to the next deep thought. The 2 solenoids for the WG and DV are the same Pierburg. High pressure comes in the bottom metal tube. Output is side port, goes to whatever you want to control with pressure. Top port is vacuum to pull the other way. The DV solenoid has its vacuum picked off the actual vacuum pump. The WG solenoid vacuum comes from the intake by the turbo inlet. Is that really enough vacuum?

Yeah, yeah... They designed it that way. Well you all have seen everything else they have designed, pulled completely apart, and pointed out the obvious and not so obvious choices made for cost, expedience, and mass production not best functionality or dependability.

Something to look in to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #860 ·
Alrighty, not playing around anymore! Everything is in short of the ECU (Intake is out of course to put it in). Got the cool side hose stuff done, crosspipe and midpipe, and braces back in place.

Crosspipe was a hoot! Realized the hanger moves a bit if you loosen the bolts! Zip tie to hold that end up while I had the real fun at the other end. I didn't modify the gasket enough on the clamp side. The downpipe came with hex cap bolts and nuts. Came down through the DP with the bolts AFTER having to undo the end spring on both DP and Cross blankets to get under the edges. No room for my hands and arms so it was quite entertaining from the outside while I struggled a bit. It may take a while, a lot of sweat and swearing, but no machine has EVER beaten me.

84096


84097


It's TIGHT but we will see!

84098


Everything lined right back up. Solid and good clearance everywhere. I think I need a new rear gasket though, the bottom half was pretty chewed up for some reason.

All open pipe after the turbo! Resonator cut out!

84101


No Touchie!

84102


Bad Gasket!

84103


Battery tie down from AliExpress. Was $3 vs $35 on Amazon but you can tell its a 2nd. Some blemishes in the anodizing but its gonna get dirty anyway. Doesn't line up with the 6 caps so maintenance free, gel mat incoming for now. All I need is an ECU!!!!!!!

84105


I'm tired, hands are SWOLLEN and cut up again. Blood for the Race Gods! Itching from insulation particles all over me now. I need a drink.

Stay Tuned!
 
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