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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Up until a month ago, the finish on my 2017 Abarth was quite nice, even without any professional detailing or products. I'm on a well system with hard water, but I've only used the CR Spotless DI system to wash and rinse the car. Then I had some surgery that kept me in the house for a couple of weeks. When I got outside, I realized the car was parked near some hose sprinklers I had deployed. My daughter mowed the grass for me and the sprinklers were relocated such that they sprinkled the car with hard water a couple of times a day. Lots of spots on passenger side window, wheels, windshield. I assume they are all over the aluminum-colored paint too, but I'm currently focused on the windows, since it's a daily driver and the spots really affect visibility in certain weather and lighting conditions. All told, the spots have been on the car about a month now.



So far I've tried 50-50 water/vinegar, straight white vinegar, some light rubbing compound, liquid BarKeeper's friend, and today I tried Chemical Guys Hard Water spot remover for Glass and Windows. After repeated applications, there was some progress on the passenger window. I moved on to the windshield and progress is slow to nil.


If I'm going to have to go to an expert to get these off, who/what am I looking for? The guy at the local FCA dealer just shook his head when I asked about their detail shop, saying it's just a couple of kids who are not expert. I think I'm done with $15 fixes and just want it done right. How do I do that?


Thanks for any help you can provide!
 

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I can sympathize, I too have very hard water.

Tried many of the same things as you without much success.

Then I tried these and had pretty good success with both:

https://www.autogeek.net/duragloss-water-spot-remover.html

https://www.autogeek.net/mckees-water-spot-remover.html

If no joy with those, I would look to doing a machine polish with a DA machine and a dedicated glass polish like:

https://www.autogeek.net/dia-glasswork-restorer.html

(When you tried a rubbing compound - which did you use and did you do it by hand or machine?)

If you have to find a pro, you're looking for a professional detailer ...I'm not sure how you would select the right one, but I'd start by looking at their websites and seeing if they have pictures, decent descriptions of their services, reviews, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
BillVista,


Thanks for the response. I have a rarely-used DA polisher that I purchased when I bought a black BMW several years back. Given the time the spots have been there and difficulty I'm having with removal, I'm going to assume there's some etching and go straight to the polish with DA. It's another $15 fix, but I can probably afford a few more of those with what I'd pay a professional detailer.
 

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I'm guessing billavista's third product may contain cerium oxide, a common glass polishing mineral in the glass and optics industries. That polish may be worth a try (I might buy a bottle myself). Google cerium oxide for more info. Use it on GLASS only, don't polish painted, and probably not metal surfaces with it.

As a youth I worked in a custom glass shop and one of my duties was buffing minor flaws (scratches, scuffs, etc.) on the surface of plate glass and mirror with cerium oxide powder mixed in water. It works great, but overworking an area of glass can actually cause distortion in the surface as you are essentially grinding away glass. That won't happen using it by hand with a cloth to remove water spots, and probably not with an automotive detailer buffer, but it will, and quickly, when using a hard felt polishing wheel mounted on a drill (which also builds up heat fast as the water dries and friction increases). Sorry, info overload. Whatever you use, follow the directions carefully.

Steve.
 

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On windows, I still have some speak and span powder, which is hard to find around here, it takes a lot of the aluminum oxide stains from the window. Or try white vinegar mixed with household Ammonia. It will smell a little but also great results on ceramic. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
An update on very difficult water spot removal:


I purchased some Wolfgang Perfekt Vision Glass Polish per BillVista's recommendation. I used a DA with a polishing pad and it didn't seem to remove the spots. I went to the next abrasive pad and after a couple of tries the spots are gone!


Meanwhile I had ordered some Water Spot Remover Gel from Chemical Guys that can be used on painted surfaces. I tried it on the two wheels that were on the sprinkler side and the spots are gone. I also did the A-pillar and painted area above the windshield. Then I got brave and tried it on the black plastic beneath the windshield. Spots are gone.



There must be some spots on the paint, but I decided to clean the car inside and out (really needed it) and I'll look at the paint later.


Thanks so much for the suggestions!
 

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On glass, you can use Bar Keeper's Friend. Not tried it on paint, I would probably not do so. I believe it's the oxalic acid which addresses the solid buildup.
 

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I'm here to commiserate on the water spots. Car came to me like this from the original owner.

I haven't tried anything serious yet. Gave it a good wash and blow dry, followed by detailing spray with a clay bar. No joy. I think I will try white vinegar solution next and escalate to more aggressive measures if it doesn't work.

72532


72533
 

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Tried the classic white vinegar. No effect. I wondered if the hard minerals were gone and I was actually looking at paint etching. So I tried a product that I bought in Germany, Sonax Xtreme Polish+Wax 3, for the purpose of polishing hazed motorcycle windscreens.

It worked! Took a little elbow grease and two applications, but the water spots / etching are gone. This product is offered in levels 1 and 2 as well. This is level 3, which supposedly is the most aggressive. I first tried it in a small area and saw that it removed the spots yet did not leave any microscopic abrasion like some polishes can do.

72544


72545


72546
 
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