Fiat 124 Spider Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
On Saturday we installed my new GWR exhaust. Everything removed easily up till we had to remove the crossover pipe. We had soaked the stud nuts for over 1.5 hours. First one can off with a lot of squeaking. The second froze and we had to use a little heat. It came off but also all the threads on the stud. Installed system ,made no sense to put old back on. Pipe is now on with only one nut on the exhaust stud plus the bolt and bracket on the other side of the crossover pipe. System sounds great but I do have a small exhaust leak. No for the crusher. Stopped at my local Fiat dealer to see if studs can be purchased. They tell me the studs are
" Non Servicable". You have to buy a complete catalytic converter with the studs. Did not even ask the price. My question is does anyone have any suggestions on a fix for my problem. Help needed.
Thanks
Jimbo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,346 Posts
Man that sucks. It seems the cat studs are hit and miss for people. The nuts come off easy for some people. Others have had studs break. Quite a few people that have installed the crosspipe have symptoms of an exhaust leak. My shop had trouble getting the nuts loose and stopped before they caused an issue. I have the crosspipe but don't know if I'll ever get it installed.

Sorry, I'm not sure how you can fix your issue without replacing the cat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
207 Posts
Yup, no doubt, that sucks. :-(
Don't give up though. Someone else here on the forum had a broken stud same problem and hopefully they will chime in. If I recall they had to pull off the downpipe/converter and then they removed the broken stud and replace it with a new bolt. Not sure if they drilled out the old stud or used an easy-out.

Most manufacturers/dealerships say "non-servicaeble" when one of two things occur.
1. They lack the initiative/ingenuity to fix the problem
or
2. The labor costs at $100 an hour make it cheaper to replace the complete unit.

Good luck and report back how you solve the problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,346 Posts
Yup, no doubt, that sucks. :-(
Don't give up though. Someone else here on the forum had a broken stud same problem and hopefully they will chime in. If I recall they had to pull off the downpipe/converter and then they removed the broken stud and replace it with a new bolt. Not sure if they drilled out the old stud or used an easy-out.

Most manufacturers/dealerships say "non-servicaeble" when one of two things occur.
1. They lack the initiative/ingenuity to fix the problem
or
2. The labor costs at $100 an hour make it cheaper to replace the complete unit.

Good luck and report back how you solve the problem.
Brandon attempted repair after breaking a stud, but he now has symptoms of an exhaust leak (various CEL codes).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
That's a s start. Did he have to remove the cat. or was he able to do the removal from underneath.
Thanks for the info.
Jimbo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
676 Posts
Are these studs stainless?
Interesting thought. I know from experience with stainless hardware that it is difficult to take apart especially if the stud is stainless, and the nut is zinc plated, unless they were treated with some sort of lubricant such as vaseline or grease on assembly. Maybe that is why so many of us are having these problems.

As an aside, having to replace a complete catalytic converter because of a stripped stud is utterly ridiculous. The studs should be readily available from a number of sources, such as McMaster Carr. I believe others on the forum were able to replace the studs on their cats.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,346 Posts
But, can the stud be replaced with the cat in the car?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Galling often occurs during installation by using too high of a tool speed. There aren't many thread lubes that hold up well to the heat of an exhaust system to prevent it from happening during removal. I've used a moly based anti sieze on exhaust manifold studs in the past but luckily never had to go back years later and remove the nut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
That's a s start. Did he have to remove the cat. or was he able to do the removal from underneath.
Thanks for the info.
Jimbo
Yup, they were able to fix from underneath with the cat still in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Follow up on stripped studs.

All went well today. We went down one size on tapping new threads on my stripped exhaust stud. Using a 7mm tap we rethreaded the stud. Nut was a little smaller so I used a washer and nut. I removed the bolt holding the crossover pipe in place so the exhast flange sat flush with cat. Tightened up both nuts and then using a adjustable support, slowly raised the crossover pipe until bracket lined up with hole. Finished reinstalling the next pipe,lowered car and started. All leaks gone. Love the sound of the GWR setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
251 Posts
All went well today. We went down one size on tapping new threads on my stripped exhaust stud. Using a 7mm tap we rethreaded the stud. Nut was a little smaller so I used a washer and nut. I removed the bolt holding the crossover pipe in place so the exhast flange sat flush with cat. Tightened up both nuts and then using a adjustable support, slowly raised the crossover pipe until bracket lined up with hole. Finished reinstalling the next pipe,lowered car and started. All leaks gone. Love the sound of the GWR setup.
Glad to hear you were able to fix this without much trouble. I didn't have the tools necessary, so I actually removed the whole downpipe and brought it to a machine shop to get a new stud put in. At least it was good practice for a downpipe replacement down the road at some point.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top