>And it looks good, too. I figure that 5 HP took care of the difference between my Lusso and the Abarth. A change of exhaust will be next.Not too much. The K&N filter gives essentially zero horsepower. On our flow bench it was almost identical to the stock filter. Our V1 intake adds an honest 5 horsepower. A little more at certain points in the RPM range. We have dyno charts on our site for all of our intakes. You can buy the V1 either with or without the K&N filter.
Greg
What do you mean, that it could be tuned, if so, who does it get tuned. tiaThat's adding 5hp without it being tuned for it ?
Yes, in fact the days of having to make tuning changes for intakes and exhaust are over with Fiats. The ECU automatically adjusts the air fuel ratio to account for these changes.That's adding 5hp without it being tuned for it ?
Thanks. I think it looks good, plus it will retain its good looks forever, it's easy to clean, easier to take on and off than the stock part, and gives an honest 5hp. It's also a direct replacement part and has a better chance of not upsetting the smog police than any other intake out there at the moment. Overall, I think it's a great part.And it looks good, too. I figure that 5 HP took care of the difference between my Lusso and the Abarth. A change of exhaust will be next.
This engine can easily reach 225-240 at the wheels on stock internals. However the currently available products for the car don't support that yet. We are getting there. You can certainly run the 1752 or an upgraded 1446 on stock internals. They are strong! I don't normally suggest the V2 as it's a little noisy and not a true cold air intake.The timeline for me picking up the Abarth will likely be mid-spring 2017, unless I do a complete 180 and snatch up an older SLK55 AMG.
With that being said, the modifications I would likely install are:
-- Eurolite tune
-- V2 intake
-- Good-Win Racing full exhaust
Would really like to see ~200 RWHP; I think that number with 24xx curb weight would be quite fun.
Once I got bored with that power, I would consider the Garrett 1752 turbo upgrade, providing that doesn't require full overhaul of internals.
Rubber would naturally be upgraded to at least 225 on all four corners.
What would it take to get these to ~225-240 at the wheels? Is that even attainable?
What about adding the full Goodwin Racing exhaust like ForzaFiata suggested to this setup? Do you believe this to be beneficial to this setup? What kind of additional HP/TQ could be expected over and above the intake and DriveLite additions?This engine can easily reach 225-240 at the wheels on stock internals. However the currently available products for the car don't support that yet. We are getting there. You can certainly run the 1752 or an upgraded 1446 on stock internals. They are strong! I don't normally suggest the V2 as it's a little noisy and not a true cold air intake.
With the Euro+Drive Lite race tune and an intake you will have 200whp in this car. It really makes it a lot more fun.
Greg
Good information, thank you!!This engine can easily reach 225-240 at the wheels on stock internals. However the currently available products for the car don't support that yet. We are getting there. You can certainly run the 1752 or an upgraded 1446 on stock internals. They are strong! I don't normally suggest the V2 as it's a little noisy and not a true cold air intake.
With the Euro+Drive Lite race tune and an intake you will have 200whp in this car. It really makes it a lot more fun.
Greg
V4 draws air from the nose of the car in front of the radiator. It hooks into the OEM fresh air duct.Good information, thank you!!
I was actually thinking the noise would be a good thing, haha. If one was to do a V4 and a new BOV, would that give you the best of both worlds? I know the desire to hear the "PSSSSHHHH" is a bit sophomoric, but that sound never fails to put a smile on my face.
Lastly -- does the V4 draw air from behind the radiator? It would be nice to have some way to source the air from in front of the radiator, even if that mean "squishing" the silicon tube through the original hole for the OEM fresh air duct.
We used to do this trick on the SRT-6... it would slightly deform the tube into an oval, BUT it allowed us to gather the absolute coolest air. Lower IATs = more power.
The Goodwin system looks really good to me. I am sure it will add power to a 124, and certainly to a 124 with more boost via Euro+Drive Lite or any other boost increasing mod. I can't comment on power increases as I haven't tried the system myself. The only exhaust mods we have done were a cross over pipe and undercar dump, which was strictly for testing purposes and not a production or prototype item (it sounded terrible, there is a video in our tech section).What about adding the full Goodwin Racing exhaust like ForzaFiata suggested to this setup? Do you believe this to be beneficial to this setup? What kind of additional HP/TQ could be expected over and above the intake and DriveLite additions?
Good to know!! I recall one photo showing it just behind the radiator... maybe it was a monitor resolution issue.V4 draws air from the nose of the car in front of the radiator. It hooks into the OEM fresh air duct.
Well, that's why we make the V2, it does make some noise, and it is a good intake. A new BOV (atmospheric type) will make some sounds when you shift, and at least in theory adds some performance because it doesn't recirculate hot air back through the turbo.I was actually thinking the noise would be a good thing, haha. If one was to do a V4 and a new BOV, would that give you the best of both worlds? I know the desire to hear the "PSSSSHHHH" is a bit sophomoric, but that sound never fails to put a smile on my face.
The V4 is a true cold air and ram air intake. As pure pointed out, it takes in air from the factory fresh air duct which is forward of the radiator. With either the V2 or V4 I do suggest an oil catch can, which will be up for sale soon. The factory air/oil separator allows a lot of oil into the intake, which I don't like. With the stock intake or V1 it can't go anywhere except back into the turbo (not great). With other intakes it can pool up in the air filter, which isn't desirable. I guess my point is that I am suggesting an extra ail/oil seperator with any intake, even the stock intake, but I think it's more important with the V2 or V4.Lastly -- does the V4 draw air from behind the radiator? It would be nice to have some way to source the air from in front of the radiator, even if that mean "squishing" the silicon tube through the original hole for the OEM fresh air duct.
We used to do this trick on the SRT-6... it would slightly deform the tube into an oval, BUT it allowed us to gather the absolute coolest air. Lower IATs = more power.
Greg, before anybody draws wrong conclusions based on the dyno charts that you posted, could you please verify them? They seem to have inconsistencies. For instance, at 4000 RPM, V1 produces more torque than stock, but the power is the same. At 4800, it's the opposite: same toque, different power. The dip in stock and V1 torque at 3000 RPM is not reflected in the power curves... etc.Our V1 intake adds an honest 5 horsepower. A little more at certain points in the RPM range. We have dyno charts on our site for all of our intakes.Greg
I hope you get bored with the euro lite, LOL, so I can buy it cheaper from you. keep me in ming. thanksThe timeline for me picking up the Abarth will likely be mid-spring 2017, unless I do a complete 180 and snatch up an older SLK55 AMG.
With that being said, the modifications I would likely install are:
-- Eurolite tune
-- V2 intake
-- Good-Win Racing full exhaust
Would really like to see ~200 RWHP; I think that number with 24xx curb weight would be quite fun.
Once I got bored with that power, I would consider the Garrett 1752 turbo upgrade, providing that doesn't require full overhaul of internals.
Rubber would naturally be upgraded to at least 225 on all four corners.
What would it take to get these to ~225-240 at the wheels? Is that even attainable?
Agree 100%. We had the same issue on the M112K AMG engine... they had a similar recirc loop which lined the intake manis with a 1-2mm layer of grime over the course of time...With either the V2 or V4 I do suggest an oil catch can, which will be up for sale soon. The factory air/oil separator allows a lot of oil into the intake, which I don't like. With the stock intake or V1 it can't go anywhere except back into the turbo (not great). With other intakes it can pool up in the air filter, which isn't desirable. I guess my point is that I am suggesting an extra ail/oil seperator with any intake, even the stock intake, but I think it's more important with the V2 or V4.
That's exactly what I am talking about. The 124's separator isn't the worst I have seen, but it's poor. We have a really nice solution. It looks factory and is easy to service. It's been on my car for a couple months and should be available soon. I think people will like it.Agree 100%. We had the same issue on the M112K AMG engine... they had a similar recirc loop which lined the intake manis with a 1-2mm layer of grime over the course of time...
One of the FIRST mods we did as owners was remove the intake manis & Y-pipe and clean them, followed by installation of a catch can. The catch can we used had a brass fitting at the bottom which could be opened, allowing the catch-can to be drained. Every oil change, I would drain it and get about 3-4 ounces of petrol slurry. It was disgusting stuff and definitely had no business in the intake tract.
There are a couple things happening here. First, there are individual run to run differences. No two pulls look exactly the same (although they are pretty close). When testing a product that only produces a small amount of extra power vs. stock as is the case with the V1 the plots will cross each other a few times because the run to run variables can exceed the difference in power that the product provides. We made no attempt to mask this. We simply took median runs to use as an example and while there are some times when the stock curve goes above the V1 curve overall, the V1 is higher. The second issue of the horsepower not exactly following the torque curve is related to the software's smoothing function. It plots actual torque but smooths out spikes (up or down) when calculating horsepower. I don't have the actual formula or criteria it uses for this, but it in no way works in our favor. Notice that at 4500rpm it works against us.Greg, before anybody draws wrong conclusions based on the dyno charts that you posted, could you please verify them? They seem to have inconsistencies. For instance, at 4000 RPM, V1 produces more torque than stock, but the power is the same. At 4800, it's the opposite: same toque, different power. The dip in stock and V1 torque at 3000 RPM is not reflected in the power curves... etc.
