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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
How To Install EUROCOMPULSION Pedal Pro

Overview:
This tutorial is written to supplement the tutorial already provided by EURCOMPULSION for the Pedal Pro. It takes a slightly different approach than either of the methods offered in the tutorial, and allows the modification to be 100% reversible without leaving any marks, while also retaining use of the OBD2 port. Feel free to adapt this tutorial as you wish. If I had a bit more time, I would have tried to source of a fuse box terminal to add a permanent fuse for the Pedal Pro instead of using an "add-a-fuse".

Edit: As Greg pointed out in post 6 of this thread, you can also buy an OBD2 splitter, which will simplify part of the install.

Tools Required:
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Crimp tool
  • Wire cutter/stripper
  • 10mm wrench or socket & ratchet
Part Required:
Notes:- A roll of velcro can be purchased inexpensively at Harbor Freight or on Amazon.com.
- I only use fleece tape for automotive applications, never electrical tape. This can also be found as "cloth electrical" tape on Amazon.com.

Procedure:
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.

2. Remove the driver side floor mat, and place it on the floor so you have something to put your knees on. The throttle pedal is mounted by two 10mm bolts, which are underneath two plastic covers. Use the flathead screwdriver to remove the covers, then remove the bolts.


3. Unplug the wiring connector from the pedal assembly byt pushing down on the edge to release.

4. Plug in the t-harness supplied in the Pedal Pro kit, and run the harness underneath the carpet and to the right of the dash.


5. Using velcro strips or fleece tape, secure the t-harness to the HVAC duct across the dash.


6. Cut off the supplied OBD2 connector. Crimp a butt end connector on the red wire to an "add-a-fuse," and a medium sized terminal to the other wire.


7. Remove the fuse panel door, and pull back the body trim (optional). Remove the 10mm bolt holding the fuse box assembly and use it to connect the ground terminal.


8. Install a ~2A fuse (you really don't need much here) to the "add-a-fuse," following the instructions on the box.


9. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a picture of this, but apply two strips of double sided tape to the processor body of the Pedal Pro and attach it to the backside of the interior trim panel right behind the OBD2 port with the wires facing toward the rear of the car.

10. I decided to use the 15A connection for the accessory fuse. Remove the fuse, place it inside the "add-a-fuse," and install as shown below. Once installed, pull any slack lightly and tie it together with fleece tape or zipties.


11. Mount the Pedal Pro to the left of the steering wheel on the flat section shown below.


...continued in next post...
 

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Great job, XR! This is how I would wire it, too. I need the OBD2 port for my IAT gauge.
 

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I'm running the GoPedal from Madness, and it's a lot easier to install than this one, all done with two wire harnesses, no add'l wires to run to the fuse box or ground. Not sure if they both do the same thing, but it seems like they do?
 

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I'm running the GoPedal from Madness, and it's a lot easier to install than this one, all done with two wire harnesses, no add'l wires to run to the fuse box or ground. Not sure if they both do the same thing, but it seems like they do?
The Pedal Pro is more advanced, and also designed to work alongside EC’s Euro+Drive tunes. It has a microprocessor, hence the need for external power.
 
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I'm running the GoPedal from Madness, and it's a lot easier to install than this one, all done with two wire harnesses, no add'l wires to run to the fuse box or ground. Not sure if they both do the same thing, but it seems like they do?
They are really two different products, the Pedal Pro has far more capability. As for the installation difficulty, keep in mind this one is plug and play if you chose to plug into the OBD2 port. Xtreme went the extra mile and hardwired it in, which is great for those who want to do that because now there is an easy to follow guide.

For those who want to simply plug and play and still have the OBD 2 port, there is a solution: https://www.amazon.com/Diageng-Right-Angle-Splitter-Female/dp/B00EEDOWU8 and it's only about eight bucks.

Greg
 

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Xtreme or others......what to do to reset all if you are an idiot and didn't do step 1 first? And car has 7 codes and no throttle , 10mph idle only?

I was just trying to get a connector picture for the mfr of roar pedal so I mistakenly reasoned that I could jump right into step 2.

Disconnected got picture reconnected and bolted pedal down.

Now I'm in super limp mode. Drive it 10 mph to the dealer as I had an oil change scheduled and realized too late what happened and was halfway down the hill.

Did I just not get the connectors pushed all the way back together or do I need a battery disconnect reconnect to reset now?
Speedometer Car Odometer White Tachometer
 

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Does the car react to the pedal at all? If all you did was disconnect the pedal then the connection may not be fully re-seated. You could try and disconnect the battery for 15+ minutes to see if that re-sets the system. Also wouldn't hurt to read fault codes via OBD2 (provided you have access to an adapter or reader).

Good luck, and keep us posted!

- SL
 

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Thanks. Thinking the same 2 things, plus maybe the recalibration step.

Codes are p2127, p2122, p0137 PD, u1400.

Believe all but the p0137 are directly indicating throttle position sensor low voltage or no connection...
 

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Did the connector do a little click when you reconnected? I have found that an extra little push is needed to have the click happen (lock engage), even if the connector looked like it was fully seated. Maybe try dis/reconnecting the throttle sensor first?
 

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Fixed with either battery disconnect or connector full seat. The strange thing to me is that when seating, one side will go farther
 

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Fixed with either battery disconnect or connector full seat. The strange thing to me is that when seating, one side will go farther
Awesome that you got it working again!

Could it be that the one side that goes further is the little lever that locks into the other connector?
 
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