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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Injectors "drop in"...with some work.

Tools needed:

Long 10mm socket
T30 Torx
Long pliers or a cutting tool (I used end nippers)

First thing's first, disconnect the battery and open the gas tank to relieve any pressure.

On AOS -

Remove corbin clamp on front hose

Remove green quick connect

Remove the hose that the quick connect is attached to from the underlying metal bracket.

On the left side of AOS, use your preferred method to remove the factory clamp (I would prefer to do away with these all together and replace with worm clamps to make servicing or removal next time easier) from the PCV valve.

On right side of AOS, remove the factory clamp.

Remove three 10mm nuts that attach the AOS to underlying bracket.

Now that you have some slack, you should be able to get to the hose underneath. I STRONGLY recommend that you use a worm clamp here during reassembly, as I don't think you have any other choice.

The AOS should be easy to maneuver now. Remove the clamp holding the left underside hose, the AOS should be free. Cover the oil pan drain hose with a towel to prevent debris from entering.

AOS Bracket -

Next, undo one 10mm nut holding the bracket to the valve cover.
Undo two T30 torx that attach bracket to intake manifold.
There are 3 locations where the engine harness loom attaches to this bracket. These are somewhat hard to remove, I recommend opening the plastic retainers on each point.

Remove bracket from engine.

Injector Rail -

Cut zipties on fuel rail. (it looks like the harness would come out with the rail, but there is a weatherpak on a solenoid in the rear of the engine that is not possible to get to with human sized hands)

Remove fuel line quick connect to rail (some fuel will drain, it's not a lot).

Begin rocking the fuel rail until the injectors are pulling out of the intake manifold.

Note - there's a solenoid in the way of fully removing the in the rail this way, that doesn't look like it can be removed with the motor in the car.

Remove the clips from the first forward injectors and remove them. This should give you space to rock the rail towards the front of the car and remove it

Now with the rail free, remove the clips from the remaining injectors. Install your e85 injectors. The e85 injectors have a short snout, so they can be installed as an assembly. Installation is the reverse of removal :)

Let me know if I've missed anything!
 

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2020 Abarth 124 Brillante White Velleno package with Monza exhaust.
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Nice Rx8, I’m a huge rotary fan and used to work at a rotary shop. Now work at Mazda dealership.
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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I saw this original post sometime this weekend and I had typed up a reply, but the entire post disappeared by the time I was finished.

The thing I was pointing out is that the ATP short nozzle 550cc injectors are the WRONG ones. They will work somewhat but because they are shorter, the spray pattern hits the sides of the intake tubes, causes pattern breakup, and pooling of fuel in the bottom. It is spec'd for long, twin spray nozzles with a slight tilt up angle to point them directly into the head ports and intake valves. There are a few long tip 550 and 620cc versions out there. I use Fuel Injector Clinic and one other I have bookmarked at home. They will test a set, match them up as close to each other as possible for flow rate and latency, and send the data table needed for tuning.

The other point was to mod the fuel rail ears that hold the cable ties for the injector harness, that's what gets in the way of pulling the rail in situ.
 
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2020 Abarth 124 Brillante White Velleno package with Monza exhaust.
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I have done a lot of research on injectors and I would have to agree with @Calehedron on this one. Best bet I think is to send out the stock ones to be modified by RC engendering or someone who does injectors. They can also flow test and match them.
 

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a Black and White video please. nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I saw this original post sometime this weekend and I had typed up a reply, but the entire post disappeared by the time I was finished.

The thing I was pointing out is that the ATP short nozzle 550cc injectors are the WRONG ones. They will work somewhat but because they are shorter, the spray pattern hits the sides of the intake tubes, causes pattern breakup, and pooling of fuel in the bottom. It is spec'd for long, twin spray nozzles with a slight tilt up angle to point them directly into the head ports and intake valves. There are a few long tip 550 and 620cc versions out there. I use Fuel Injector Clinic and one other I have bookmarked at home. They will test a set, match them up as close to each other as possible for flow rate and latency, and send the data table needed for tuning.

The other point was to mod the fuel rail ears that hold the cable ties for the injector harness, that's what gets in the way of pulling the rail in situ.
I am interested - I bought these from EC so I figured they would just work.
 

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I am interested - I bought these from EC so I figured they would just work.
That is a fault of ATP marketing them for the 1.4MA. If you search for injectors, these come up everywhere but they aren't the best choice. They function perfectly but the nozzle needs to be longer so that it sits near flush with the intake exit. Here is mine before I "ported and polished" all the flash and misalignment of the parts glued together. I cut my fingers on the stuff when I was cleaning out all the piston shrapnel.

87310


I purchased a set of 440cc @3bar (350cc stock) and is effectively 520cc at 58PSI that our pump/regulator pushes from Five-O Motorsport. Here are the 550cc with the long tip. They include the matched set datasheet. I have not installed these yet because I was going to run stock until we got Phase 3 and 4 dialed in completely but they will be going in at some point and then maybe a "Phase 5" will be created. Phase 6 will be the Nitrous kit!

87312


After "polishing" with emory cloth.

87313
 

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That’s where I bought my injectors for the Miata. I couldn’t figure out their name but that was the other company I was referring to. Thanks @Calehedron
 

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Long term I'd like to have the option to run E85 when I get my 1446+ turbo, so I might be considering those injectors. @Calehedron I'm assuming a tune-adjustment is necessary to run those injectors with pump-gas correct?
 

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Long term I'd like to have the option to run E85 when I get my 1446+ turbo, so I might be considering those injectors. @Calehedron I'm assuming a tune-adjustment is necessary to run those injectors with pump-gas correct?
Yes, anything more than ~10% over stock size needs to have the rating updated in the tables so it can do the math correctly.
 
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