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Discussion Starter #1
I installed the EC FMIC today. I'll post more about that in the appropriate thread later. But at the tail end of the install I managed to break off the circuit board that's connected to the negative battery cable. It's apparently very delicate.



So now I get this message and the battery warning light.



I assume the car is fine, it just doesn't know everything is fine. But after being towed once already I'm not too eager to do it again. Can this be re-soldered or do I need a whole new part. And if so, it is user replaceable or do I need the dealer to do it. It appears to connect into the fuse box somewhere but I was too tired to explore it tonight.

I haven't seen this posted before so I'm hoping someone has some knowledge on this.
 

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oooohhhhhh noooo.
Not cheap bro.

battery sensor


Part Number: 68340388AA ; 04727798AA

aloha mike

wouldn't surprise me if the mazda part would work
 

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looking a bit...it could be the main fuse? ugh (Edit...I don't think its the main fuse...nothing would work...lol)

aloha mike
 

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oooohhhhhh noooo.
Not cheap bro.

battery sensor


Part Number: 68340388AA ; 04727798AA

aloha mike

wouldn't surprise me if the mazda part would work

Wow, that's insane! But then again, the cup holders aren't much cheaper as singles.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
oooohhhhhh noooo.
Not cheap bro.

battery sensor


Part Number: 68340388AA ; 04727798AA

aloha mike

wouldn't surprise me if the mazda part would work


I just spoke to the dealer. The bad news is that the alternator will not charge the battery without that part functioning. Mike, you are right, it’s expensive. The invoice is $497.

The goods news is the dealer is going to overnight it for me and cover the costs if I install myself and give them the old part. I told them I broke it being careless and it was completely my fault. They are even going to have an employee deliver it to me in Grand Junction. Makes up for the botched PCM reflash.

Now let’s see if I can get it before Saturday which is last track day of the year here.


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I just spoke to the dealer. The bad news is that the alternator will not charge the battery without that part functioning. Mike, you are right, it’s expensive. The invoice is $497.

The goods news is the dealer is going to overnight it for me and cover the costs if I install myself and give them the old part. I told them I broke it being careless and it was completely my fault. They are even going to have an employee deliver it to me in Grand Junction. Makes up for the botched PCM reflash.

Now let’s see if I can get it before Saturday which is last track day of the year here.


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That turned out well for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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It did considering how big of an idiot I am.


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Reaping the benefits of not being an ******* to the dealer over the botched flash...
 

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oooohhhhhh noooo.
Not cheap bro.

battery sensor


Part Number: 68340388AA ; 04727798AA

aloha mike

wouldn't surprise me if the mazda part would work


I just spoke to the dealer. The bad news is that the alternator will not charge the battery without that part functioning. Mike, you are right, it’s expensive. The invoice is $497.

The goods news is the dealer is going to overnight it for me and cover the costs if I install myself and give them the old part. I told them I broke it being careless and it was completely my fault. They are even going to have an employee deliver it to me in Grand Junction. Makes up for the botched PCM reflash.

Now let’s see if I can get it before Saturday which is last track day of the year here.


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That’s nice of them!!
It did considering how big of an idiot I am.


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Reaping the benefits of not being an ******* to the dealer over the botched flash...
Note to self... 😉
 

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Don't feel bad, I too broke the cable (connector next to the temperature sensor) and also found out how delicate and expensive the replacement part is. I got the exact same error as well. This is a smart cable that detects temperature of the battery and other things. I broke mine when I removed the battery to install the GWR lightweight battery. I'm sure others will experience this when they replace or remove the the battery. To fix mine, I used a glue gun to repair the connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Don't feel bad, I too broke the cable (connector next to the temperature sensor) and also found out how delicate and expensive the replacement part is. I got the exact same error as well. This is a smart cable that detects temperature of the battery and other things. I broke mine when I removed the battery to install the GWR lightweight battery. I'm sure others will experience this when they replace or remove the the battery. To fix mine, I used a glue gun to repair the connector.


Funny you should say that. I was just coming back here to say a little glue solved the problem.



Lesson learned kiddos. Don’t wildly bang your cable back on with the butt end of a screwdriver after 10 hours under a car.


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Thank You, lesson learned:)
 

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So I texted the service manager last night and told him I fixed the part with a little glue. He said “let me send you the new one anyway”. And he did. 10 minute install. All he wants is the old part back. Who knew there was a really great Fiat dealer in small town Colorado?




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Now all you need is the 3.75lb Battery and tray from GWR!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Now all you need is the 3.75lb Battery and tray from GWR!
Haha I thought about that the first time I lifted that battery out of the car! How is that working for you? Do you have to keep it on a tender? My car is not a daily driver. I usually get it out once maybe twice a week but when I do I drive it for several hours.

So I have to tell a funny story on myself that involves the battery. When I was doing the FMIC install I took the airbox and battery out first since i was going to lift the car up with a Quickjack. So I get the car all set up to lift and I lift the car maybe 2" and I go to loosen the McGard lug nuts and realize the lug tool is in the kit in the trunk. Well the battery is out of the car so I can't pop the trunk open. So I drop the battery back in, hook it up and pop the trunk. Take the battery back out, hook it back up to the Quickjack and close the trunk. ****. I didn't get the lug tool. So I had to drop the battery back in a second time and do it again. It's stupid things like that that made the install a 10 hour process.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I plug it in every night now with the pigtail installed on the spare terminals. Due to the heat right now and some things still "on" with the car in the off position, I have come out from work and it was down enough to not start and completely dead one day and even the Infotainment had overheated. Changed sides of the covered parking so that the nose is in the shade in the Afternoons! I do keep a DBPower jump start pack in the cubby behind the passenger seat now for this reason. First time it happened, it was in the trunk and like you, I couldn't get in to grab it with the battery dead. Also got a new Leatherman tool to have a Phillips on me at all times in case I have to use the manual release at any time.
You're much more extreme than I am. I draw the line on some performance mods. For instance, I'm not ready to cut plastic to install a true track rollbar. The track i go to doesn't require it anyway and I haven't branched out to other tracks yet. And I'm not ready to sacrifice reliability just to drop 30+ lbs. I drive my car to too many areas where there is no cell phone coverage and no help for a long ways.
 

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@Chainringtattoo so it’s all good? What kind of glue? Silicon? Gorilla?
Happy to hear you were able to repair it for very little expense.

Aloha mike

EDIT: had not seen the dealer sent the new part to you...very cool
 

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one thing I have been seeing here is the preemptory changing of parts for no other reason than changing them. I really don't understand why so many are willing to remove perfectly serviceable parts from their cars jeopardizing their warranties, rather than waiting a year or two for the actual failure of said part?
 

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one thing I have been seeing here is the preemptory changing of parts for no other reason than changing them. I really don't understand why so many are willing to remove perfectly serviceable parts from their cars jeopardizing their warranties, rather than waiting a year or two for the actual failure of said part?



The parts I am changing may be perfectly serviceable for a stock car, but I am building up a track and show car and need the performance increases and weight drop. Not doing anything that would knowingly break anything, but I accept the risk for what I am planning on using the car for.
 

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@Chainringtattoo so it’s all good? What kind of glue? Silicon? Gorilla?
Happy to hear you were able to repair it for very little expense.

Aloha mike

EDIT: had not seen the dealer sent the new part to you...very cool

It was just some type of project glue my wife had lying around the house. I’d say it is similar to Super Glue. She glued it for me and used only a very small amount. It seemed to have worked very well and I was content with the repair but the service manager thought I should replace it anyway. And since he gave it to me for free I was happy to take it.

It seems my U76 recall misfortune turned into a positive after all. Sometimes we must be patient and wait for the real lessons to reveal themselves.


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