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That manifold looks really nice as does everything I have seen from NGEN. I don't think any T-Jet exhaust manifold will work on the 124 without some serious effort. The reason is that the European Spiders don't use T-Jet, they use the Multiair engine. You would have to get a T-Jet manifold from a 500, which positions the turbo differently and won't easily work in the 124, it's certainly not a bolt on. Plus, the T-Jet manifold isn't better anyway.

NGEN's ported manifold looks like a great choice.

Greg
 

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I agree, the manifold looks awesome. I wish I had had a chance to include it in my build.
 

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I agree with @sharkcohen that the NGEN manifold looks great...and I want it. The only question I have is about durability. It looks a little thin between the two ports. How well do you think that area will hold up under repeated heat cycles? I don’t expect it to last as long as a stock one but are we talking 3/4 maybe 1/2 the life?
 

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I agree with @sharkcohen that the NGEN manifold looks great...and I want it. The only question I have is about durability. It looks a little thin between the two ports. How well do you think that area will hold up under repeated heat cycles? I don’t expect it to last as long as a stock one but are we talking 3/4 maybe 1/2 the life?
I noticed this, too.

As much as I like the idea of this manifold, I’m sure my street car doesn’t need it, and it would have increased the difficulty of my install.
 

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I agree with @sharkcohen that the NGEN manifold looks great...and I want it. The only question I have is about durability. It looks a little thin between the two ports. How well do you think that area will hold up under repeated heat cycles? I don’t expect it to last as long as a stock one but are we talking 3/4 maybe 1/2 the life?
I have to agree. Phillip and I discussed this, when Brian first posted pictures of the manifold. Trimming that separation plate to a knife‘s edge may definitely make it prone to cracking under constant heat cycling. I’m sure Brian will report on any issues encountered during his tracking effort. We’ll have to wait and see.

Dan
 

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Really enjoying the car with the stuffed turbo! Been working back and forth with Tuner on tune refinements and that is coming along nicely, will return to dyno for final numbers in the next few weeks as time permits.

Also getting the car ready for Laguna Seca Raceway event! Will go back up to our Good-Win Racing Premium 12.88 Big Brake Kit because I do most of my passing at Laguna deep in the brake zone for turn 2. Will also add some brake ducts to help keep the brakes at best temp. Also checked local yards for a factory hood and found one in black, and black trunk lid. How very convenient! What are we going to do with those? More on that soon....but it's about better cooling and better aero for fast Laguna.

My buddy Moti has done up some seat lowering mounts, since I am tall for these cars at 6'2, those will help better get my helmet under the Blackbird Roll Bar.


Is this mount something you’re replacing the pro car inno mount with ? Or a mount for oem seat ?

the brake duct you guys are trying will they be available soon?

And you say working with “tuner” , is there a new tuner in the mix here ? My stuffed turbo is going in this week
Also your exhaust arrives tomorow :) can’t wait to finally get that on and match @depotdan 🤙

Post pics of the aero please
 

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Is this mount something you’re replacing the pro car inno mount with ? Or a mount for oem seat ?

the brake duct you guys are trying will they be available soon?

And you say working with “tuner” , is there a new tuner in the mix here ? My stuffed turbo is going in this week
Also your exhaust arrives tomorow :) can’t wait to finally get that on and match @depotdan 🤙

Post pics of the aero please
Are you finally joining the RoadsterSport exhaust club? It’s a great choice to pair with the turbo.
 

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Are you finally joining the RoadsterSport exhaust club? It’s a great choice to pair with the turbo.
I do love the look of it especially after seeing it on the snake last year . I’m straight piped now turbo back & Will perhaps add the crosspipe and midpipe later. For now the look of the roadster sport will complete the rear end of the car nicely 👌
 

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I would go System One at this point. Drop in resonator or straight pipe and still have the Helmholtz to kill the drone. I need to find a local-ish swap for non-resonated mid pipe or have Rick cut mine out and flange it and fab a straight pipe drop in like the System One.
 

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I would go System One at this point. Drop in resonator or straight pipe and still have the Helmholtz to kill the drone. I need to find a local-ish swap for non-resonated mid pipe or have Rick cut mine out and flange it and fab a straight pipe drop in like the System One.

We talked through the options , the roadster is lighter stainless steel and better sir flow when using the entire system for 50 bucks more .

Since this is going to be a track only car , lighter and louder is better :) . I did still almost pull the trigger on system one
 

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I’d get System One now if I didn’t have the RoadsterSport, but I do love my RoadsterSport.
 

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I’d get System One now if I didn’t have the RoadsterSport, but I do love my RoadsterSport.
I have a love/hate with it. Well made and sounds great. At times the drone can be annoying but I’ve learned to ignore it. The biggest problem is that about every 1,000 miles I have to get under it and readjust and tighten the sleeve that holds the midpipe sections together as it starts rattling against the cross brace. I have a gap of about 1 1/4” between the two sections and the front section eventually flexes it’s way loose in the sleeve and causes the pipe to sag. I’ll probably have to have them welded together to fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #74 (Edited)
We don't have that issue here, with any customers here, including lots of customers racing the cars every weekend here with very stiff suspensions plus our local race surfaces are riddled with potholes. So I would look at the clamp and I would clean off the ends of the pipe, perhaps some road grime got splashed up in there and is acting as a lube, or factory didn't get all the machine oil off before it shipped. Clean it off real good, if needed use some rough sand paper in only one direction for a lap or two around the pipe, around the pipe ends, not the direction of travel of the slip, and those micro concentric grooves will increase the grip. Then get that clamp good and tight.
 

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Initially after my install I had that issue, but Brian sent me some tips and I made some adjustments and the issue hasn’t come back in a year.
 

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We don't have that issue here, with any customers here, including lots of customers racing the cars every weekend here with very stiff suspensions plus our local race surfaces are riddled with potholes. So I would look at the clamp and I would clean off the ends of the pipe, perhaps some road grime got splashed up in there and is acting as a lube, or factory didn't get all the machine oil off before it shipped. Clean it off real good, if needed use some rough sand paper in only one direction for a lap or two around the pipe, around the pipe ends, not the direction of travel of the slip, and those micro concentric grooves will increase the grip. Then get that clamp good and tight.
Thanks Brian. Normal road use doesn't affect it much but when I put it on the track it doesn't take long to start rattling again. I have a Quickjack lift so the bottom of my car is spotless. Literally. I think I'm just one of the unlucky ones who has a small fitment error in the mid-pipe. I've fixed this thing at least 1/2 dozen times now. I like your idea of roughing up the pipe ends. I haven't tried that yet. Oh and trust, me that clamp is as tight as I can get it. But the twisting forces eventually win out it seems.
 

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I have a love/hate with it. Well made and sounds great. At times the drone can be annoying but I’ve learned to ignore it. The biggest problem is that about every 1,000 miles I have to get under it and readjust and tighten the sleeve that holds the midpipe sections together as it starts rattling against the cross brace. I have a gap of about 1 1/4” between the two sections and the front section eventually flexes it’s way loose in the sleeve and causes the pipe to sag. I’ll probably have to have them welded together to fix it.
I had the exact same issue but I managed to fix it by jacking up the midpipe to a little higher than it should be before tightening the pipe clamps. It's been a few weeks now and the rattle hasn't come back.
 

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I had the exact same issue but I managed to fix it by jacking up the midpipe to a little higher than it should be before tightening the pipe clamps. It's been a few weeks now and the rattle hasn't come back.
I do the same thing to get the pipe sections as close together as possible. The wear marks on the sleeve indicate it’s only holding onto about an inch of pipe at each end. I’ve looked for longer sleeves with no joy.
 

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From Brian's tips, here is what I did. I loosened the nuts at the crosspipe to midpide and midpipe to tail pipe connections. Then I shoved the midpipe halves all the way together and clamped them down. Then I tightened the midpipe to tail pipe connection, and then the crosspipe to midpipe connection.
 

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Our superlap efforts focus on the radically faster HyperMiata. I like the Fiat as a daily driver and touring car in the real world, so at least at this time not going to take it to that level with massive aero, etc. I agree there is some fun potential, perhaps our own version of the factory rally spec with motor from the Alfa, or LFX, but that's down the road when we can get one of these for 5k well used. Some updates on the Hypermiata coming, my guess right now is next time at Buttonwillow we get it down to 1:45 or better.

In the meantime, here is the record run from Chuckwalla:

I know I'm late coming to the party on this one but I just have to say that was some excellent driving and what a car!
 
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