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Several recent threads have inquired about low profile jacks to get under lowered Spiders, or even stock Spiders.

Here is an idea- drive all 4 of your wheels up onto scrap pieces of 3/4" plywood/boards, or even onto 2x lumber (at least 2x8 lumber for the width of the tires) that lays on the wide dimension. Now you'll have the car up 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches (19 to 38mm for all you metric lovers), possibly providing the clearance needed to slip your conventional floor jack under the car to any desired lifting point. You may need to stack boards if the car requires an even higher clearance.

For 2x lumber, cutting an angle onto the leading edge of the boards will help the tire roll up onto the board.

It goes without saying, but I will anyway- leave the boards under the tires when lowering the car again.

Steve.
 

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I use this technique when

Several recent threads have inquired about low profile jacks to get under lowered Spiders, or even stock Spiders.

Here is an idea- drive all 4 of your wheels up onto scrap pieces of 3/4" plywood/boards, or even onto 2x lumber (at least 2x8 lumber for the width of the tires) that lays on the wide dimension. Now you'll have the car up 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches (19 to 38mm for all you metric lovers), possibly providing the clearance needed to slip your conventional floor jack under the car to any desired lifting point. You may need to stack boards if the car requires an even higher clearance.

For 2x lumber, cutting an angle onto the leading edge of the boards will help the tire roll up onto the board.

It goes without saying, but I will anyway- leave the boards under the tires when lowering the car again.

Steve.
Doing my oil change. My car is not lowered, so I wanted a way to TILT the car to the left to allow the oil pan to drain all the oil, so I jack it down onto two 2x6" set only on the driver side, thus leaning the car just enough to drain the pan. While it is draining, I change the filter , thus releasing and back pressure and allowing the rest of the oil to finish.
:)
 
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