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New owner here. Searched the forums a bunch but needed some 'for dummies' info for this noob re: the monza exhaust.

I just had the new exhaust installed today on my 2017. Unfortunately, I didn't think to look at the valve/springs because the exhaust is new. I figured it wouldn't be an issue. When trying the car I was a little bit disappointed as I didn't hear much of the character I expected and the exhaust even seems a little quieter than the stock exhaust (!)

I'm wondering if my valve is stuck shut. I have zero knowledge and experience with this sort of thing, so if anyone could indulge me and help me correctly identify what I'm looking at, I would appreciate it! I looked under the car and believe I found it... a nub on the left side of the car with a spring nearby. I was unable to turn the nub with my hand. Is that expected? I sprayed a little WD40 on the assembly and ordered some anti-seize compound coming next week. Anyone have any tips on how I can better identify what's going on? Is there a noticeable breaking in period for the exhaust?

Thanks -
 

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Pushing the metal bracket that’s attached to a spring outward will open the valve. If you can’t get it to move, it’s likely seized.

If it is truly seized, you might need to take the system off and give the bracket a knock or two with a mallet to loosen it. Heating it up first might help as well. If that works, grease that baby up and keep an eye on it.

edit: ooof. 5 month old thread.
 

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2018 124 Abarth
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New owner here. Searched the forums a bunch but needed some 'for dummies' info for this noob re: the monza exhaust.
Checking while mounted on the car: I can move the shaft for the valve on my RM to check it's not seized by using a pliers on the round end of the shaft at the bottom of the shaft. I cannot check it from above where the spring is because my hands are not strong enough.

Agree with Kubicide, The RM is definitely louder than the stock muffler was on my 124 Abarth.
 

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So Which way is open? You have mentioned push spring to the right, valve is open, then push valve to the left, valve is open?? I am presuming if the arm is spring loaded to the left, then that is closed. Mine appears to be stuck to the left and really corroded. Noisy exhaust but does not get any louder when accelerating. Any idea if being shut will cause problems?
 

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2017 Abarth spider
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As far as i know the valve is never totally closed (or totaly open). Easy way to check this is to see exhaust smoke/flow during cold start. Even with the valve 'closed' you will still see flow coming from all 4 tips.
My valve is stuck too and i moved it to the open position thus keeping it open all the time. I still get flow out of all 4 tips. (the inner two do get dirtier quicker than the outer)

As far as problems. I don't think i will ever matter. the most narrow point in this exhaust system is not at the valve. it's the crosspipe.
 

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2018 Abarth 124 Spider, Mare Blue / Nero Abarth Leather, Brembo's, Record Monza, Automatic
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The spring pulls the valve to the closed position. @RobbertNLD , and anybody else reading this thread, these are the products I use every once in awhile to keep my Record Monza functional:
Liquid Automotive tire Tin Fluid Paint
Give the shaft a spray of the GM Rust Penetrant and let it sit a minute or two, working back and forth, repeat as necessary until the shaft moves freely if it was frozen. Then spray alternately the rust penetrant and the Permatex Anti-Sieze while working back and forth - the idea being to work the Anti-Sieze into the shaft / pivot areas. The GM Rust Penetrant / Heat Riser Lube (PN 1052627) is available at GM dealers parts departments. One can also use PB Blaster available at parts and hardware stores ( however, I find the GM product superior - my opinion). The Permatex Anti-Sieze (PN 81464 (133MA)) is generally available at parts and hardware stores. I do not know about availability of these two products in Europe, but I'm sure you get the idea. I can access the valve without putting the car in the air, and work/hold the valve with vise grips and a screwdriver. Some, I am sure, would rather put the car in the air, or remove the RM to work on it on a bench if the valve is severely frozen. I would recommend doing this procedure as general maintenance at the time of each oil change. Best, s
 

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The spring pulls the valve to the closed position. @RobbertNLD , and anybody else reading this thread, these are the products I use every once in awhile to keep my Record Monza functional: View attachment 91810 Give the shaft a spray of the GM Rust Penetrant and let it sit a minute or two, working back and forth, repeat as necessary until the shaft moves freely if it was frozen. Then spray alternately the rust penetrant and the Permatex Anti-Sieze while working back and forth - the idea being to work the Anti-Sieze into the shaft / pivot areas. The GM Rust Penetrant / Heat Riser Lube (PN 1052627) is available at GM dealers parts departments. One can also use PB Blaster available at parts and hardware stores ( however, I find the GM product superior - my opinion). The Permatex Anti-Sieze (PN 81464 (133MA)) is generally available at parts and hardware stores. I do not know about availability of these two products in Europe, but I'm sure you get the idea. I can access the valve without putting the car in the air, and work/hold the valve with vise grips and a screwdriver. Some, I am sure, would rather put the car in the air, or remove the RM to work on it on a bench if the valve is severely frozen. I would recommend doing this procedure as general maintenance at the time of each oil change. Best, s
Thanks for the info. I suspected it was that way. I have plenty of lube and penetrating oil, I just need to free it off first. I have just bought the car and it is four years old and never had the lever lubed. It may be beyond freeing, but I have soaked it and will leave it a few days. I may have to remove the silencer and apply some heat to the thing to move it.
 
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