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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello my fellow 124’ers

After lots of research and countless hours of figuring If my previous turbo was salvageable
I have decided to make the leap to the 1446+

( A little back story, I have 37k miles on the car it’s a 2017 )

About 2 weeks ago I started hearing a blow dryer sound upon acceleration along with a small loss in power. Me thinking it’s just a hotter day in Florida shook it off and kept driving, and the next day decided to check all the hoses to make sure everything was tight as I just had an oil change a few days before.

I personally asked Milo (Spoolin32) what he thought and told me to check the impeller for “play”.

I took off the intake tube and do a visual inspection, hmm no damage to the impeller now I go to see if there is any movement to the impeller wheel and what do we have, some SERIOUS impeller play. Side to side up and down all over.

Seems as though there are a few turbos that are experiencing this premature turbo failure. I’m just happy I caught it before it got worse.


Seeing as though I don’t see an exact diy step by step install for this turbo I would like to know if there are any tips and tricks for the installation thank you guys
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Now I know where that video Milo sent me came from!

Best advice I can give you is use safety wire and the associated bolts on the turbo to manifold connection. The studs/nuts can fall out and replacing with harder bolts that don't deform/stretch at lower torque can fall out over time with vibration also. I plan on doing it this time around since I am taking everything off the top end again.

Will look something like this when done:
Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Bicycle part


The wire is strung and twisted to always pull clockwise on the bolts so they cannot unscrew. I used this on a Vulcan 20mm 6-Barreled A-A cannon to hold the receiver housing together, it will work just fine on our turbo manifolds.

Use 0.025-0.032" stainless or inconel wire and Pliers that twist look like this:

Tire Bicycle tire Wheel Automotive tire Helmet
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Now I know where that video Milo sent me came from!

Best advice I can give you is use safety wire and the associated bolts on the turbo to manifold connection. The studs/nuts can fall out and replacing with harder bolts that don't deform/stretch at lower torque can fall out over time with vibration also. I plan on doing it this time around since I am taking everything off the top end again.

Will look something like this when done:
View attachment 88033

The wire is strung and twisted to always pull clockwise on the bolts so they cannot unscrew. I used this on a Vulcan 20mm 6-Barreled A-A cannon to hold the receiver housing together, it will work just fine on our turbo manifolds.

Use 0.025-0.032" stainless or inconel wire and Pliers that twist look like this:

View attachment 88034
Well in that case thanks for your help as well !

I wanted to know why does the factory one stay put but when we change them they start to walk themselves out ? Are we using the wrong bolts ?

Should we use locktite or is that not proper installation?
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Well in that case thanks for your help as well !

I wanted to know why does the factory one stay put but when we change them they start to walk themselves out ? Are we using the wrong bolts ?

Should we use locktite or is that not proper installation?
I think its mostly the softer grade bolts the OEM use along with distorted threads that bind up a bit more and then they thermally bond like the ones on the cat to crosspipe. They can also work loose and there have been a few cases documented here. That connection is really HOT and I am sure there is some thermal expansion and contraction going on as well as increased vibrations if running the car hard. Locktite or other thread locking glues might work but they can fail with 1400F also. The absolute best way to be sure they are not going to back out is safety wire. Race cars are full of it on the heads, flywheels, turbos, and anything else that might shake loose.
 

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So you're the one that sent me that video about the blow dryer sounds lol @Calehedron & @Spoolin32 have much more experience in that department than myself so i'm glad they helped you out! I'll be putting the 1446+ on mine very soon and @Spoolin32 recommended a set of locking bolts/nuts which I picked up and also referenced the wire so might do that too.

Sucks the turbo went that quick, but made the perfect excuse to upgrade 🐌💪
 

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Is that the case going forward with the EC turbo?
 

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Great call on the EC stuffed turbo 🤙. @Phillip33 and @Calehedron are my technical go to’s 💪.

race wire is the way I’m going as well, time to Re do this for the 5th time.
Damn it! Y'all made me go check. Driver's side rear appears to be gone....where's that link to the bolts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here ya go!

TURBO & EXHAUST MANIFOLD UPGRADE INSTALL on a Fiat 124 Spider Abarth - HOW TO!

Thank you ! and thank you for the quick checkout of the VERY NECESSARY oil lines that need changing when swapping to a new turbo
 

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Look what just arrived !



On quick glance I noticed that the bolts are actually welded on now !
The Studs are not welded.

We would do that, but then changing studs if one got stripped or damaged would be dang near impossible.
 

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Have you switched to inconel studs, or is there some reason not to?
Assume this question is for gpop and EC. I got replacement bolt and stud from gpop directly for the first repair. It lasted less than 6 months and 2k miles, so I'm taking a different route now
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Whew that was a fun first day.

Today was removal of the previous turbo.

A lot of those nuts, bolts & screws don’t like to come off lol

Only 1 casualty and that was the stud on the downpipe that connects to the mid pipe. I am going to drill out and figure out a replacement. Other than that not a bad job just very tedious.



Stay tuned will be doing turbo install tomorrow!


 

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Congrats on the removal. It is tedious but not that bad when you get right down to it. If you are good with the studs, there are also nuts with holes drilled for safety wire to keep them tight.
 

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Household hardware Tool Automotive tire Auto part Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Day 2 !

Ok so today was definitely a tougher day as I changed the oil return lines and fitted the new turbo.

The oil return lines weren’t bad to change just the tight spaces are difficult to get to. I had to order those through NGEN.

Next up I fitted the turbo to the exhaust manifold.

Now here is the part that I got stuck on for almost 2 hours.

The return oil line at the bottom of the turbo would not match up with the screws for nothing, I even removed it and adjusted it and nothing to no avail. I ended up calling GPOP ( the company that EC had make the turbo) and spoke to one of the mechanics there. He informed me that I was shipped a turbo fitted FOR A FIAT 500. I stayed calm and he asked me how mechanically sound I was, I told him very fluent, he proceeded to tell me that there was a small pin I needed to take off the compressor housing and also on the actual cover.
He continued to tell me how incredibly sorry he was that this had happened and I assured him that it is totally ok and I was just glad that I was able to get it working properly.

So then I continued with the install and it got late, and now tomorrow I will be finishing up by reinstalling the downpipe and the exhaust side of things !

Very excited!

Here is the photo of the small pin can be pulled with needle nose pliers
 
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