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This thread may have solved them problems I had this morning. The build date on my Abarth is 12/16. Purchased 3/17. Since the car is garaged my key fob is often left in the car. If not, it's hanging right inside the house about 12-15' away from the car. Last week when attempting to start the car all I got was the green light on the dash when the clutch was depressed. The second try worked fine. Temps were in the mid 30'sF. This morning, same temps and same initial results except the second attempt failed as well. I couldn't lock or unlock the car with the fob. Bringing the fob in and placing it over the heat register just below where it sometimes hangs fixed things. The rest of the mornings driving went fine. I did not notice any green lights on the dash after shutdown. BTW, my wife keeps the spare in her purse and after attempting to lock her purse in the trunk found that her fob must be wrapped in foil or the car will not lock.
I'll change the batteries in both and start keeping the key in the house from now on.
 

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Timely thread.

For the last week or so my trunk release didn't work from the fob. Figured the battery was dying (17 Abarth). Then, this morning my car wouldn't start. I never noticed any warning lights on the dash (probably me not paying attention). Glad I was home, so I just grabbed the spare fob and had no issues.

Will replace the battery tonight. Fortunately, the battery is same size as those on my bike computers. I used to hate that they came in 2 packs, now I'm glad!
 

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Indeed, timely thread. I never noticed the flashing green key when I shut down the car until I read this thread. All taken care of now.
 

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For those contemplating buying a new or used car from a dealer that's had it for a long time it may be prudent to consider changing fob batteries immediately to avoid being caught out.
 

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Alas, I checked both keys fobs and get a slow blinking green light after shutdown. Amazon says the cells will be here this morning. My 2011 Element uses the same type cell so after 8 years of use they will get an early Christmas present too.
 

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The online copy of the owners manual isn't very clear on how to open the key fob. What I found out was to first remove the key then using a small straight blade screwdriver pop open each side of the key end of the fob working from the now exposed inside. Once both sides of the key end are pried loose you can then slide an object along the opening toward to opposite end to pop open the other end. A larger flat blade screwdriver works will as long as it's thick enough.
I did find it interesting that both the primary fob and the one that's been wrapped in tin foil for over two years had low batteries. I don't know how much longer either one of them would be able to start the car.
On a side note the online copy of the manual mentions that if the key fob is left in the car it will not work until the unlock button is pressed. I've never seen this happen. Time to dig out the paper manual and see if it is mentioned there as well.
 

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I do think these fobs, being keyless, are constantly transmitting their homing signal, looking for the car. Whatever the effective range is (a matter of feet), it's sending that signal whether or not it is near the car. Or wrapped in aluminum foil. That has to be why these batteries only last 2-3 years, vs. the 5-6 years of my last fob equiped, but switchblade-style keyed ignition car. (And my current key ignition 2019 Nissan Frontier truck.) That fob only ran the door locks and panic alarm. It may have had a non-powered rfi tag in it that the car itself looked for to permit starting with only the proper key (i.e. "chipped keys" of the last 10-15 years).

In the case if our Spiders (or Mazdas, and similar keyless systems), it may be a matter of the key looking for the car, not the car looking for the key. Maybe? (Hey, I'm no electrical engineer...)

Steve.
 

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You may have a point. The car may be asleep and not looking got the RFID chip until the fob gets close enough to bring the car out of sleep mode and turning on the Xmitter. This would help save the cars battery.
 

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My Ram truck warned yesterday of a low FOB battery. Truck was delivered in February 2015, not bad., and it is still working OK. Replaced the CR2032 this morning.
 

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I never got a flashing green light before my FOB battery died -- luckily I was at home and just grabbed the spare.
 

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being a bad boy I suspect I have just let both key fob batteries run down i think, so I will need to source new lithium 2025/ 2032 batteries I guess.
But here's a question. The car doors will not open, but there was no warning on the dashboard last time I drove the car the key fobs were running flat - is it something else?
The car started up fine.
Also I see on this site trying a manual entry with the key opening the door is simply going to trigger the alarm, which will be unable to disable? Is that correct ?



Note that without a working fob, you won’t be able to disable the anti-theft alarm (if equipped).
 

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Lately, when first starting the car after sitting for a few days, it won't start. I have to bring the FOB next to the start button and it starts fine. After that most times it appears to work OK. I replaced the battery in it not too long ago, perhaps it was an older one in the drawer as we keep spares for everything at home. maybe I will try to jam a 2032 in there this time. I think someone had posted that it worked.
 

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jetlag- the 2032 will fit, but it will be tight. The fob really is sized for the 2025 battery. That extra .7mm of thickness does make a difference.

Steve.
 

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Than
jetlag- the 2032 will fit, but it will be tight. The fob really is sized for the 2025 battery. That extra .7mm of thickness does make a difference.

Steve.
Thanks Steve- I am going to dig out the spare FOB and see if it does the same since I changed them both at the same time. it may be something with the car. It sits a lot, sometimes over two weeks at a time. I tried jamming a 2032 in there one time and wasn't really comfortable with the fit, and as you said, the 2025 is the proper battery.
Rene
 

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Don't leave the fob in or near the car when not driving, it'll drain the batteries quicker. Don't let the red "dead battery" light on the dash come on, you'll need the proper bit of kit to remove it or else take a trip to the dealer to do it.
 

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all sorted - flat key fobs - and I can confirm the 2025 is the battery to go for - you might damage the cover with the other - its too tight as testified by steven
 

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Some bad information here. The 2032 will fit fine and will last longer. Also the fob is a transmitter and not a receiver so it doesn't know when it's near the car or when it is in your house so the batteries will not drain any faster near the car. The car's receiver determines if the fob is close.
 
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