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Some bad information here. The 2032 will fit fine and will last longer. Also the fob is a transmitter and not a receiver so it doesn't know when it's near the car or when it is in your house so the batteries will not drain any faster near the car. The car's receiver determines if the fob is close.
If the bad info is about the battery fit, it fits, but I would not say it fits fine. That extra thickness is putting stress on the fob that it wasn't designed for. Time will tell what the 2032 does to my fobs. With luck, nothing.

Steve.
 

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Having the same battery size for all fobs would be nice. Our (enormous) Alfa fobs take 2032. I'm not sure about the Jeep, those never seem to deplete (likely due to its parking location distance)
 

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Some bad information here. The 2032 will fit fine and will last longer. Also the fob is a transmitter and not a receiver so it doesn't know when it's near the car or when it is in your house so the batteries will not drain any faster near the car. The car's receiver determines if the fob is close.
This seems to contradict the experience of others as discussed on various threads.

One of my fobs was left in the car for five days (not by me) for panel damage and resulted in failure. Admittedly the batteries were on the low side and needed to be replaced anyway but...

The green warning light didn't appear prior to leaving the car and went immediately to red picking the car up. Checking the remaining voltage revealed the charge was lower than the other fob that stayed with me which worked ok. I was forced to take a trip to the dealer to clear the warning.

Who's right? Don't know. May be a co-incidence? But it I feel the system may be inconsistent enough not to risk the inconvenience.

I change the batteries on it's birthday regardless of remaining charge.
 

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This seems to contradict the experience of others as discussed on various threads.

One of my fobs was left in the car for five days (not by me) for panel damage and resulted in failure. Admittedly the batteries were on the low side and needed to be replaced anyway but...

The green warning light didn't appear prior to leaving the car and went immediately to red picking the car up. Checking the remaining voltage revealed the charge was lower than the other fob that stayed with me which worked ok. I was forced to take a trip to the dealer to clear the warning.

Who's right? Don't know. May be a co-incidence? But it I feel the system may be inconsistent enough not to risk the inconvenience.

I change the batteries on it's birthday regardless of remaining charge.
Yes, I'm starting to do the same thing. It's part of my annual maintenance check list now. For a few bucks, it's peace of mind.
 

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This key fob battery crap is a bit confusing...

I was getting the green key warning light when I turned the car off, a solid, unblinking, light for 30-ish seconds, which I took to be "the warning light will turn on when the engine is ready to start" as stated in the manual, because it wasn't flashing.

Then, I got the flashing red key fob warning light yesterday, when I got in the car. I immediately procured a pair of 2025's and changed the batteries in both fobs this morning. No more red flashing warning light.

I'm still getting the solid, unblinking, 30 second green keyfob warning light when I turn the car off.

Is this correct, or is there an issue with my key fobs or the new batteries? I'm not using the keyless entry, I'm fine locking and unlocking the car myself, with the buttons.
 

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Apex- that sounds correct, green light indicating all is well and ready to restart. The green light should be telling you that the key found the car and that the car is awaiting your push of its button.

Steve.
 

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Apex- that sounds correct, green light indicating all is well and ready to restart. The green light should be telling you that the key found the car and that the car is awaiting your push of its button.

Steve.

Cool, that's what I thought. What tripped me out was I never saw the flashing green warning light, just straight to the red one.

The battery replacement is pretty easy, especially if one has a trim removal tool, to split the fob once you pop it with a screw driver.
 

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Apex, I don't think my green key light remains on after shutting off the car, blinking or steady. As soon as I'm in the car it comes on green as I press in the clutch, then goes red as the car is turning over, then goes off as the car is running. When I shut it off the only light to remain is the very brief continuous blink of the red lock symbol, part if the anti-theft.

I'll try to pay attention for it again and report back. Anyone else?

Steve.
 

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I figured it out.

Clutch in, with the car not running, and you'll get that steady keyfob status light, whether you're about to start the car, or just turned it off. Since I park the car in gear with the parking brake engaged, I turn the car off with the clutch in, so I see the green steady keyfob light whenever I turn the car off, until I take my foot off the clutch, which I don't do until I set the parking brake.

I would imagine that the keyfob low battery warning light flashes once you take your foot off the clutch, as that's when I saw the red flasher. I must not have hit the combination of clutch out, low battery with me looking at the dash, which is why I never saw the green flasher.
 

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I'm sure this was noted above somewhere (I only perused about 1/2 of the posts), but the FOB batteries are (or should be) covered under warranty by dealers too -- mine were last December when, after two years of use, the battery in one of the FOBs was weak......
 

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I'm sure this was noted above somewhere (I only perused about 1/2 of the posts), but the FOB batteries are (or should be) covered under warranty by dealers too -- mine were last December when, after two years of use, the battery in one of the FOBs was weak......
1.5 mile round trip to my hardware store.
~30 mile round trip to my dealer. I'm out time and money to warranty the fob batteries.

Fob batteries are wear out items, like tires and engine oil. I'm not going to look into it, but I doubt the dealer will warranty them. If they are a good dealer, they may change them as a courtesy for a good customer.

Steve.
 

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I figured it out.

Clutch in, with the car not running, and you'll get that steady keyfob status light, whether you're about to start the car, or just turned it off. Since I park the car in gear with the parking brake engaged, I turn the car off with the clutch in, so I see the green steady keyfob light whenever I turn the car off, until I take my foot off the clutch, which I don't do until I set the parking brake.

I would imagine that the keyfob low battery warning light flashes once you take your foot off the clutch, as that's when I saw the red flasher. I must not have hit the combination of clutch out, low battery with me looking at the dash, which is why I never saw the green flasher.
Yeah.... you nailed it. With our manual trans, as soon as you depress the clutch, the car is going to check to begin a start process. I'm speculating auto trans owners would see the same thing occur as soon as they press on the brake.
 

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I'm sure this was noted above somewhere (I only perused about 1/2 of the posts), but the FOB batteries are (or should be) covered under warranty by dealers too -- mine were last December when, after two years of use, the battery in one of the FOBs was weak......
Two years and they were weak ?..... Not suprised. Change your both fob batteries at 12 monthly intervals. Not covered by warranty
 

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Two years and they were weak ?..... Not suprised. Change your both fob batteries at 12 monthly intervals. Not covered by warranty
Yeah -- I was surprised by that. And....I didn't take the car to the dealer for the FOB issue -- was regular oil change/maintenance -- they proactively changed out the batteries and characterized as a free-of-charge warranty item.....
 
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