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Key light stays on, will only start as if remote has dead battery, both remotes, door buttons do not work for lock/unlock, can't go into accessory mode. any suggestions?
 

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I have no suggestions, but does the owner's manual talk about such things?

I wonder what would happen if you remove the negative battery cable for a few minutes? These cars are rolling computers, maybe a "hard reboot" would cure the problem.

Keep us posted.
Steve.
 

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Tried the negative battery thing, no help, manual says constant light that there is an issue with the keyless entry system, taking to dealer on Thursday, but I feel I already know more than they do and only had car a week. lol.
 

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Correct....

Tried the negative battery thing, no help, manual says constant light that there is an issue with the keyless entry system, taking to dealer on Thursday, but I feel I already know more than they do and only had car a week. lol.
We all know more then the dealer knows:laugh::laugh::laugh:LOL
 

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Ok, so it slowly started getting better on its own, still had to start car as though remote battery was dead but the key light went out. After a few more starts everything went back to normal, Dealer scanned system, feel that my airport access card that stays in the console by the key is the most likely culprit.
 

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Has anyone else had this issue? My key light is on constantly (red). Car starts fine and operates normally, but light remains on. I have changed the battery, disconnected the car battery - no change.

I purchased my 2018 Abarth from a dealer in Kansas and found, upon arrival here in New Mexico, that the unit is a repo bought at auction in Texas by the dealer with 3600 miles on it (knew about the miles, not the repo part). Only received one key with the car.

The dealer is a Mazda dealer and I suspect the unit was recovered without keys and the dealer programmed in a Mazda unit. Could've been done in TX too. It has a proper emergency key for the car and proper SKE13E-01 code, but the light remains.

I want this light to go away. Plus, I want a spare. New keys are $350 from the local Dodge dealer PLUS $110 to program (although he will do additional keys, of which I found two, one on Ebay and one on Amazon). Sounds like I'm down the road to another $500 I'd rather spend on other things for the car. Not expecting any help from the seller really.

Any thoughts?:(
 

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To confirm, when you say you changed the battery, you're saying you put a new battery in your key fob, correct?

The following information is copied from the user manual, and specific to a "red" key light indicator in the dash: I've bolded and underlined the portion I'm thinking may be related to what you're described. My gut feel (and it's no more than that), is that it may all be tied to the replacement fob if it wasn't programmed and synced to the vehicle properly.

Key Warning Light — Illuminated
If any malfunction occurs in the keyless entry system, it illuminates continuously.
Note:
If the key warning indicator light illuminates or the push button start indicator light (amber)
flashes, the engine may not start. Contact an authorized dealer as soon as possible.
Key Warning Light — Flashing
Advanced Key Fob Malfunction
Take the appropriate action and verify that the warning light turns off.
The advanced key fob battery is discharged: replace the key fob battery. (But I think you've already done this...)
The advanced key fob is not within the operation range/is placed in areas inside the
cabin where it is difficult for the key to be detected: bring the advanced key fob into the
operation range.
A key fob from another manufacturer similar to the advanced key fob is in the
operation range: take the key fob from another manufacturer similar to the advanced key
out of the operation range.

Without the ignition switched OFF, the advanced key is taken out of the vehicle,
and then all the doors are closed: bring the advanced key fob back into the vehicle.
 

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Thanks for the reply CDPond. Yes, FOB battery was changed.

I had seen all this in the manual. I suspect I am dealing with a less than kosher replacement - sigh. Just wondered is anyone had any other thoughts.

I am hopeful they (MOPAR dealer) can reprogram to compliance but have the other two FOB/KEY sets in case. The keys will have to be cut.

I will probably purchase one new unit from the dealer and have the other programmed as well for certainty. But I just about passed out when the told me the cost.

BTW, the MOPAR dealer here in town is a full $100 cheaper on the key and fob vs. the FIAT dealer in Albuquerque for the exact same items. That says something to me... I'll buy mopar interchange parts if available. So nice to have interchange capabilities.
 

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Thanks for the reply CDPond. Yes, FOB battery was changed.

I had seen all this in the manual. I suspect I am dealing with a less than kosher replacement - sigh. Just wondered is anyone had any other thoughts.

I am hopeful they (MOPAR dealer) can reprogram to compliance but have the other two FOB/KEY sets in case. The keys will have to be cut.

I will probably purchase one new unit from the dealer and have the other programmed as well for certainty. But I just about passed out when the told me the cost.

BTW, the MOPAR dealer here in town is a full $100 cheaper on the key and fob vs. the FIAT dealer in Albuquerque for the exact same items. That says something to me... I'll buy mopar interchange parts if available. So nice to have interchange capabilities.
Sorry the info wasn't of assistance. I dug around and Googled for about a half hour and that was literally all I could scrounge up for info.

Yup, nothing is inexpensive on these Spiders. As for your Fiat dealer charging more for the part suggests to be that they're just gouging. They get their parts from MOPAR as well (if they don't, then there's an even bigger issue). My experience is that the dealer's MSRP on components sourced from MOPAR is in the 25 ~ 30% profit range, but in reality they can charge pretty much whatever they think they can get away with. Wishing you success if getting your fob demons ironed out.
 

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Thanks again. I'll report back when all this is done. Two week turn around just to get the parts. We'll see.
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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Mine quit working and key lit up when I had the windows tinted. There is a Mazda bulletin about using too much water when applying the tint and the runoff shorts out the boards in the doors. I still haven't taken it in to have it fixed yet though. Its been low on the priority list.
 

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I just had my windows tinted and am having the same issue. Got my doors wide open and it's out in the sun as I type this and I'm hoping once it dries up, the problem will go away.
 

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2018 124 Spider Abarth Custom
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I just had my windows tinted and am having the same issue. Got my doors wide open and it's out in the sun as I type this and I'm hoping once it dries up, the problem will go away.
Mine were done in August in Phoenix. They musta used LOTS of water to not dry out fast here at that time!
 

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Mine were done in August in Phoenix. They musta used LOTS of water to not dry out fast here at that time!
Looks like leaving it out worked, the AKE is working as advertised. It's a sigh of relief for me, things haven't been going my way with this car lately lol.
 

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The other day my amber key light came on and has stayed on. I went and got a new battery and replaced the battery in the key fob. The amber key light is still on otherwise the car operates fine. I am about to go on a long road trip though and am getting worried. I do not want it to leave me stranded at a rest stop or something.
 

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Has anybody figured this out?

Got my car back from the repairer and contrary to my instructions the key fob was left with the car continuously for four days. Needless to say the red (I never saw flashing green) "Battery low" indicator came on and the door buttons failed to operate. Everything else works fine.

Checked the batteries, the one left with the car measured 2.90 volts, I had the other one with me which measured 2.93 volts which seemed to predict that they needed changing anyway. My one worked perfectly with no warning of low battery so it seems that 2.90 volts is a bridge too far and probably triggered the warning. Leaving this fob elsewhere and using the other fob doesn't fix it.

Changed both batteries which measured 3.24 volts but red light doesn't go out and door buttons still don't work. I've tried every combination I can think off but nothing works. Searched here and elsewhere and cannot find a clear cut solution.

I'd like to think that a simple battery voltage check that results in a red alert would be rectified by the same check when the batteries were changed and the voltage restored. Low voltage on fob batteries is a part of life and sooner or later this will happen to everyone. Anything else is too complicated and unnecessary.

The "The advanced key fob battery is discharged: replace the key fob battery" advice noted in post #7 seems to imply that changing the batteries will restore the status quo but obviously doesn't.

Can FIAT CARES offer any advice that confirms that changing fob batteries is all that is needed or is there something else that needs fixing by a dealer (which I will claim under warranty as simply replacing a fob battery shouldn't result in a dealer charge for clearing a red alert).

A bit of a rant I know but something as simple as this shouldn't require this much effort to resolve.
 
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