[Kilmar]

Hi, I'm driving manual classica.
I notice that my engine coolant keeps getting low.
It had a leakage on floor so I had to take a dealership and they found the housing had a crack and they replaced with new one(took 2 weeks).
They filled the coolant up to full and it's been two weeks and it at low when engine is cold.
I don't see any leakage on floor this time, but when I drive with 5000-6000 rpm and smell some sweet(coolant burning??).
I drive most on weekends short distance. Since repair I drove less than 200 miles.
Does anyone have similar experience?
Should I use some different type of coolant?
Or any thoughts or advises?

If coolant getting lower than low line, I might take my spider to dealer next week.

Thanks for reading.

 

[Greg]

I haven't seen this in the 124, but historically with Fiats, it's a clamp issue with the hose on the coolant overflow bottle.

Greg

 

[Kilmar]

Thank you so much Greg

 

[Stewie]

I wouldn't put a different coolant in there because that wouldn't fix anything. You may just end up with more issues. But Greg having more experience with these of course, if he's saying that Fiats have had clamp issues that could be it. Just enough room for the coolant to squeeze out but because of the heat, evaporate. Not enough to show leakage on the floor. Thus the smelling of it ?

 

[Kilmar]

Thank you.
I am going to take it to dearlership next week.

 

[MotoPete]

Not to say that there's not a problem, but you will get some fluctuation in the coolant overflow container level depending on the temperature of the coolant. As I'm sure you know, aside from an anomaly near freezing point water expands in volume when heated, contracting when cooled.

 

[Unknownsir]

per the owners manual :The coolant should be at full in the
radiator and between the F (Full) and L
(Low) marks on the coolant reservoir
when the engine is cool.
If it is at or near L (Low), add coolant by
mixing a minimum solution of 50%
Mopar Long Life Coolant Concentrate
for FIAT Spider.

So at low mark when cool is within limits. However the question is was it there right after they did the repair or has the level dropped? Not Knowing the answer to this. Keep and eye on the level now and if drops get in sooner than appt. if necessary. If need to add coolant then have to question what kind for sure as they don't list a part number in the owners manual, just mopar specific for Spider, is it really something different than the others. Now i need to make a phone call to the dealer to clear that up, could be real important. As mixing coolants is a huge no no as it can cause issues in the long run. I personally would add just plain water if i need to add a little until i can get to a dealer and have them fix it to proper ratio later.
i did call the dealer and the part number is 68163848AB and it is used in other thing besides the Spider and has been around for a few years. So should be possible to locate a compatible type in an aftermarket bottle in an emergency.

 

[Kilmar]

I got my spider back yesterday. The service man told me there was too much of air in the system and they drained it. It was running fine for couple of days when they test drove it.
He didn't exactly explain where was the air and didn't give me repair order. He wants me to drive couple of days and give him an update.

I drove yesterday about 20 miles and I checked coolant level this morning without operating car. It was near "H", however it seemed a bit lower than yesterday.
There might be still same problem. I will drive more and I will find out about week later I guess.
Thank your your advises guys.

 

[stevet]

(Edit- I just found Ameridan's article. Thanks Dan, I'm going to consider plan B, 3rd party choices or Mazda FL22. 124 Spider ~ Coolant Confusion )

Reviving an old thread. Here is my coolant level on my multi-day stone cold engine.

See the faint dark spot on the tank about an inch above the collant? I put that there with a marker a couple years ago, but I don't recall if it was cold or hot level, I'll experiment and find out. Anyway...

The light is glaring but the very green fluid level is about a shy half inch above low, where it has been since even last season, so there have been lots of miles with this condition. So, I thought I'd top it up to the midpoint to full (when cold). Looking for the Fiat juice mentioned 2 messages above, I called my local Fiat dealer. He had none in stock but could have it there on Monday. $51 per bottle. WHAT!? Yep, he repeated that, a bit shocked himself, $51 for a liter(?) bottle. I told him I'm sorry, but I can't spend $51 for a bottle of concentrate coolant. He understood. He was unable to tell me 3rd party alternatives, or if it was different from the FL22 spec on the overflow bottle cap.

Searching long and hard from up top, I see no evidence of any leaks, around the bottle nor looking down the front of the engine area to the belly pan from the area of the turbo intake tube. 3 years and almost 15000 miles and I've never added any (haven't smelled any, either), just watched the tank at periodic fluid checks a couple times per month.

What's the current advice on compatible coolant, or an alternative source for the Mopar stuff? Thanks.

Steve.

 

[sharkcohen]

Mazda FL22 is factory fill and is all I use.

 

[Calehedron]

The Mazda FL22 is cheaper and there is Ravenol you can pick up from Amazon.

 

[stevet]

I called the Mazda dealer. Gallons only, about twenty-something bucks. I need about a cup, if even. The other 15 cups would just end up sitting on a shelf. I'll check local auto stores for a smaller jug of FL22, or order the Amazon juice. Thanks.

Steve.

 

[jetlag]

The Mazda FL22 is cheaper and there is Ravenol you can pick up from Amazon.

That's where I got mine as well

 

[stevet]

Just a follow-up photo after 20 miles of freeway driving. Now you can see the black dot on my bottle- that must have been my old cold mark. I'll pick up a small bottle of FL22. Thanks.

Steve.

 

[kthwht00]

Which "housing" had a crack? The coolant tank?