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Discussion Starter #1
So I've recently taken on the rather daunting task of fitting the Tork Motorsports' 3" catted downpipe to a 2017 Lusso with moderate success!

I've found out that dropping a motor mount to get the pipe's in/out is totally unnecessary (It slips right out of the top, no need to snake it out the bottom) Though getting the stock crosspipe out, since I bought a goodwin hiflow pipe, is an acrobatics routine in itself. On the Abarth models, this isn't an issue seeing it just falls out of the bottom of the car. However, on the Lusso (or at least my car in particular with the automatic) There are 2 coolant lines that slip underneath the crosspipe and connect to the transmission, which require you to do a fun twisty turny motion just to snake the pipe out. These lines alone would make getting the downpipe out of the car by removing the engine mount totally impossible without disconnecting these lines.
So in short;
Do everything John has instructed everyone else to do. With the exception of pulling the stock cat out of the bottom of the car, the pipe /CAN/ be removed from the top of the engine bay if you squeeze the heat shielding while twisting the pipe so that the flange points towards the driver's side to make some room :p

Though I have another issue, I have an exhaust leak, the ECU keeps throwing a [P0137] and the cabin gets awfully smelly. I know where the leak is coming from, it's the flange that connects the downpipe to the crosspipe. But I for the life of me cannot find anywhere to source a new gasket to help solve this issue (the stock gasket has seen 50K miles of use, I figured reusing it would be fine but clearly not.) If anyone else has ANY clue where to find one of these, PLEASE send it my way, Mopar parts dealers don't seem to carry it or have the part ID anywhere, all of the other exhaust related gaskets are easy to source and are relatively cheap, but not this one.
 

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Your issue may be that if you torqued the side Support bracket ( bottom of the downpipe ) the way the oem sat , it mis alights the Downpipe with the turbo up top making it very difficult to seal with the oem flange . I had to seal the turbo to the downpipe first then use a spacer & make sure that the bracket didn’t crank the downpipe to the side but purely provided support .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Your issue may be that if you torqued the side Support bracket ( bottom of the downpipe ) the way the oem sat , it mis alights the Downpipe with the turbo up top making it very difficult to seal with the oem flange . I had to seal the turbo to the downpipe first then use a spacer & make sure that the bracket didn’t crank the downpipe to the side but purely provided support .
I never really thought about that, but makes sense, the pipe has gotta come out of the car anyway so I can wrap it, engine bay temps are getting toasty.
 

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I’ve pulled the downpipe out the top twice, once the stock one and once the GWR downpipe. It’s a tight fit but it’s doable. You cannot get it out the bottom of the automatic because of the transmission lines. However, for the crosspipe you can move those lines around. They are secured to the side of the transmission by 2 small 10mm bolts. Remove those bolts and you can move the lines about to make the crosspipe easy to pull out.

As Milo mentioned above, there is a sequence to tightening everything down, and if you don’t do it properly you will get a leak.
  1. Drop the downpipe into the car.
  2. Up top, attach the downpipe to the turbo. Don’t forget it’s ring gasket. Only hand tighten the nut of the V-band clamp, then go to the bottom.
  3. Assemble the downpipe bracket. Tighten the fasteners finger tight only. Go back to the top.
  4. Torque the V-band clamp nut to no more than 60 INCH pounds. Go back to the bottom.
  5. Tighten the downpipe bracket fasteners. Now you are ready for the crosspipe.
  6. Get the crosspipe into position. Do not attach the crosspipe hanger to the hanger bracket yet. Connect the crosspipe to the downpipe. Don‘t forget the gasket. Torque down the nuts to secure the crosspipe to the downpipe.
  7. Loosen the nut that secures the crosspipe hanger bracket to the block. The bracket has a slot in it for this nut that gives the bracket some adjustment. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
  8. Attach the crosspipe hanger to the hanger bracket. Leave the bolt loose.
  9. Tighten the crosspipe hanger bracket to the block.
  10. Tighten the crosspipe hanger to the bracket.
Sources:

https://www.mazdatalkforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3852
https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-2102.html
 

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I never really thought about that, but makes sense, the pipe has gotta come out of the car anyway so I can wrap it, engine bay temps are getting toasty.
I was catless and it was roasting everything , can’t imagine with the cat probably melt everything in sight. I double wrapped it and the temps are much much much better .
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was catless and it was roasting everything , can’t imagine with the cat probably melt everything in sight. I double wrapped it and the
I’ve pulled the downpipe out the top twice, once the stock one and once the GWR downpipe. It’s a tight fit but it’s doable. You cannot get it out the bottom of the automatic because of the transmission lines. However, for the crosspipe you can move those lines around. They are secured to the side of the transmission by 2 small 10mm bolts. Remove those bolts and you can move the lines about to make the crosspipe easy to pull out.

As Milo mentioned above, there is a sequence to tightening everything down, and if you don’t do it properly you will get a leak.
  1. Drop the downpipe into the car.
  2. Up top, attach the downpipe to the turbo. Don’t forget it’s ring gasket. Only hand tighten the nut of the V-band clamp, then go to the bottom.
  3. Assemble the downpipe bracket. Tighten the fasteners finger tight only. Go back to the top.
  4. Torque the V-band clamp nut to no more than 60 INCH pounds. Go back to the bottom.
  5. Tighten the downpipe bracket fasteners. Now you are ready for the crosspipe.
  6. Get the crosspipe into position. Do not attach the crosspipe hanger to the hanger bracket yet. Connect the crosspipe to the downpipe. Don‘t forget the gasket. Torque down the nuts to secure the crosspipe to the downpipe.
  7. Loosen the nut that secures the crosspipe hanger bracket to the block. The bracket has a slot in it for this nut that gives the bracket some adjustment. THIS IS IMPORTANT.
  8. Attach the crosspipe hanger to the hanger bracket. Leave the bolt loose.
  9. Tighten the crosspipe hanger bracket to the block.
  10. Tighten the crosspipe hanger to the bracket.
Sources:

https://www.mazdatalkforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3852
https://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-2102.html
Update: Eureka! Doing that after cleaning everything liberally seems to have done the trick. I also went ahead and double wrapped the downpipe before putting it back in the car, which has improved engine bay temps drastically. No CEL's just yet but only time will tell. Thanks all!
 

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Not that one, Graeme. Its the one NOT shown on the drawing that goes between cat and crosspipe. I have found the PN in the past and its in my build post I'm sure.
 
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