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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Afternoon All! Just posting this to see if you guys can help me narrow down some possible causes of my symptoms below. I’m on EC Phase 1 with a V2 intake, GFB DV+ with TS BOA, turbo blanket, and non-resonated axle back. 2019 Abarth MT.

*Rough idle (ODB reading a range from 780-735 rpm)
*Inconsistent acceleration (feels like a stumble in boost range, 2.5.-4k or so)
*Not getting anything over 20 psi, and mostly seeing numbers around 16 psi even on WOT
-Ambient temps around 60 degrees F
-Hits 20 psi and fluctuates around it, like a mini wave centered at 20 psi, when read through ODBII
*Strong gas smell during cold start - this might be normal but adding it regardless. This happened before the exhaust install so that’s not the cause.
*On WOT starting at 3k ish RPM, there’s a slight hesitation (feels almost like an AT kickdown hesitation) in 2nd and 3rd gears.
*4-7 misfire counts on all cylinders per drive.
*I tried re-installing the DV+/TS and V2, now I’m getting a wet ‘pssh’ sound on the driver’s side under hard acceleration. Maybe I didn’t install the DV stack correctly? I lubed with a light layer of oil but it’s been happening for about a week now without any change.

I’ve talked with Toby at EC and we really don’t think this is a tune issue. So here are my thoughts on what to test, in order from most likely to least likely:

—Spark Plugs (gap + condition)
—Coil Packs
—Wastegate
—Wastegate Solenoid
—Boost leaks
—Fuel injectors
—O2/MAF/MAP sensor (unlikely)
—PCV (unlikely)
—Throttle Position Sensor (unlikely)

I have some OBDII readings I can post but not sure what values to select or what to look for exactly. Let me know your thoughts! Only had one CEL but that was for the intake (P1CEA) and once I cleared it I haven’t seen it since.
 

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All your mods are easy to install and uninstall, so just roll them back to stock one by one until the issue is gone, then you know who the culprit is. If everything is back to stock and you still have issues, then it’s time to pay the dealer a visit for warranty repair, if you still have warranty.

You can rule out turbo blanket and axle back though, these hardly affect anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
@HaZ Problem is, the last time I took the car in to the dealer, they checked everything out for about 10 minutes and said ‘Oh yeah that’s normal for a turbo car’ and shooed me out the door. So, I’m going to be taking it to an independent mechanic I trust (owner is Tim Wilkerson so they know what they’re doing). I’m trying to narrow down possible options before I go to reduce the $$$ for labor.

Then I’ll go back to the dealer and tell them how wrong they were and they can fix the stuff based on the independent mechanic recommendation.

But yes, I’ll try removing the mods to see if that solves anything. I don’t think it will other than the weird wet sound but can’t hurt.
 

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Hesitation at ~3k rpm is one of the most common issues with modded 124s. Most likely cause is that some safety limit was hit and the ECU is dialing everything back to prevent damage.

Removing mods (including the tune) is part of narrowing down possible causes. Mods are the most likely causes for problems like these, coupled with the fact that yours are so easy to remove, they should really be the first ones to be removed and ruled out before you start chasing after the more elusive culprits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good point, I’ll take them off and see where it leads. Some of these did exist before any mods were put on the car, so I’m still thinking I have a spark plug/coil pack issue and a boost leak somewhere. I’ll see if I can pull the plugs and check them out.
 

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More often than not a misfire is a sign of a spark plug problem. If you PM me the details including when the problem started I'll try to help.

Greg
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Greg, PM sent!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK so got the spark plugs in - everything definitely feels better. Way smoother. Still a little bit of hesitation during WOT but I think this is from a boost leak somewhere.

When I pulled out the spark plugs 2 our of the 4 were black all the way up the threads (looks like from oil possibly?) and only the first one (front in the picture) looked relatively clean up the threads. It's a 2019 with exactly 10K miles. Any cause for alarm or things to check?
 

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@HaZ Problem is, the last time I took the car in to the dealer, they checked everything out for about 10 minutes and said ‘Oh yeah that’s normal for a turbo car’ and shooed me out the door. So, I’m going to be taking it to an independent mechanic I trust (owner is Tim Wilkerson so they know what they’re doing). I’m trying to narrow down possible options before I go to reduce the $$$ for labor.

Then I’ll go back to the dealer and tell them how wrong they were and they can fix the stuff based on the independent mechanic recommendation.

But yes, I’ll try removing the mods to see if that solves anything. I don’t think it will other than the weird wet sound but can’t hurt.
I’ve had the same dealer experience... I’ve taken my 124 to them with an engine fault, twice now and they’ve had the car all day. For them to turn around and say they couldn’t find anything but I owe them hundreds in labour. Basically I’ve paid them for nothing, the car is no different afterwards compared to when it was before. But they’ll try to upsell me work that doesnt need doing such as brake discs and tyres.

How many times do they keep on expecting me to bring the car in for the same fault and pay them labour costs, only for them to say nope we found nothing again. Try again $$$$

I would prefer it if the industry was honest enough to charge me only when they know what’s wrong and can fix it.

Otherwise they’re pricing themselves out of work and it’s not economical to keep a car with an engine fault
 

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So...
I’ve had the same dealer experience... I’ve taken my 124 to them with an engine fault, twice now and they’ve had the car all day. For them to turn around and say they couldn’t find anything but I owe them hundreds in labour. Basically I’ve paid them for nothing, the car is no different afterwards compared to when it was before. But they’ll try to upsell me work that doesnt need doing such as brake discs and tyres.

How many times do they keep on expecting me to bring the car in for the same fault and pay them labour costs, only for them to say nope we found nothing again. Try again $$$$

I would prefer it if the industry was honest enough to charge me only when they know what’s wrong and can fix it.

Otherwise they’re pricing themselves out of work and it’s not economical to keep a car with an engine fault
[/QUOTE

So...you expect them to work on your car for nothing if they can't locate the problem?
Get a life.....some problems are a bugger to find. And not every similar problem has a similar solution.
Honest enough? Again....get a life.
Ever been to a Doctor? Had a problem they can't assist with? So they refer you to a specialist? You still have to pay the Doctor though don't you.

Of course, you could always fix it yourself.
 
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