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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

I’m a new member (school teacher – not very mechanical minded) I live in fire blazing Australia with a recently purchased 2018 124 Spider Abarth manual. Can I say first off its just so horrible how firefighters including overseas firefighters have lost their lives, and their families devastated, simply trying to help us – HEROS in my eyes!

I love the car but want to (I’m my opinion) improve its looks and handling by doing the following:

1. Lowering it.
2. Putting on wider light wheels.
3. Putting on wider sticky tyres (no snow or sleet where I live – just hot, hot, hot).
4. Brake upgrade rotors and calipers front and rear


I really need forum members help to get started in the right way and buy things and promise to put up photos up of before and after.

1. Lowering it (i.e centre of gravity)
My research indicates I can legally lower a vehicle by up to 50mm (2 inch) for street use in Sydney Australia without needing an engineers sign off and I also need to keep 100mm (4 inch) clearance between the bottom of the vehicle and the road in the unladed state (i.e my fat arse not being in the drivers seat! – wow it will be low when I get in!).

I did some crude measurements and the car at the lowest point is close enough to 150mm (just under 6 inch) from the ground. Not sure what the end of the tape is touching but its where the very bottom of the mounting point where the rear shock is mounted to the ground.

My thoughts are that if I lower the car 50mm (2 inch) to comply with not needing an engineers report it means I also maintain the required 100mm (4 inch) ground clearance.

So in my books that is what I’d like to achieve (50 mm/2 inch) lower. This will still allow me to get in and out of drive ways.

I’d also like to stiffen the suspension whilst lowering to hopefully also improve handling but I do not want it so stiff that its uncomfortable or in a permanent race track set up because it will possibly only get tracked twice a year. I also don’t want to hit a small pothole and shatter my wheel and my teeth! Therefore, my question is: Can anyone suggest the best way to go about this lowering for the long term with improved handling and a nice degree of comfort. If that means coil overs and other bits and pieces I’m ok with the cost but would like to know what exactly I need and also reputable brands and their part numbers to buy please.

Note: If I have a set up that allows me to drop it more than 2 inch (50mm) for occasional track use then this would be a great bonus!

2. Wider lighter wheels

I’ve read that the Abarth wheels I have (see image) are 7 x 17 inch and weigh 21.78 lbs. They have 205 x 45 84W tyres.

I like the colour (gun metal) of the wheels as it matches the windscreen frame, side mirrors and complements the side skirts, plus they don’t look so dirty when they actually are, so I can clean them less often!

Apparently for road use in Australia for alternate (new) wheels I need to comply with the following: The alternative wheel must not increase wheel track of passenger cars (or derivatives) by more than 25 mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer”. That means I can increase the width of the wheel 1 inch from a width of 7” to 8”.

I was thinking with 8 inch wide rims to stay with a 17 inch rim diameter as opposed to considering 18 inch diameter just to keep a comfortable ride and reduce pot hole and shattered teeth shock! Therefore I am considering going for tyres that are 235 x 45 x 17.

What I have no idea about is what type of wheel I need to keep the wheel set up as factory as possible (without the need of a spacer) but still allow me to have a wider wheel that is lighter, that will fit wider tyres and fit under the guard – and if possible I do not have to roll rear guard – but if I have to, due to tyre scrubbing then so be it. In other words, any suggestions on a suitable 8 inch wide grey wheel (gun metal or similar) with the same bolt pattern and centre bore where mounting configuration is the same as factory that fits straight on would be greatly appreciated.

Note: if I wanted slightly bigger brake rotors and callipers soon also I would appreciate a bigger wheel now that would accommodate this brake upgrade.

Wheel Bolt Pattern
: 4 x 100 PCD (same as all MX-5)
Wheel Offset (ET)
: +45 mm (positive offset, aka wheel inset)
Center Bore
: 54.1 mm (wheels are lugcentric, but if wheels with
→ → a larger center bore are used, lug nut procedure is critical)
Lug Nut Threads: M12 x 1.5 mm
Lug Nut Seat: Cone @ 60° angle
Min. Lug Nut engagement (8+ turns OEM norm): 6½ turns
→ → (if spacers > 5mm are installed, use longer lug bolts, as min.
→ → spec probably won’t be met)

3. Tyres:

As above I’m thinking of new tyres being 235 x 45 x 17. Any suggestions on something similar to performance of Michelin pilot cup sport II tyres as I had them on my Ford Focus RS and Porsche Cayman R and they were ok for me. Suggestions appreciated.

4. Brakes:

What brake rotors and callipers would people recommend that will fit into recommended wheels?

Thankyou so much in advance for your “been their done that” suggestions as to brands/parts/model numbers to consider and perhaps why if you have the time, expertise and experience to share.

My three boys and I really look forward to getting this started!

Cheers

Jeff




 

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I will start a bit and then I am sure more will chime in that are even more knowledgeable than I when it comes to these parts.

1. Any decent coilover has a threaded base tube to change the ride height and a spring adjustment for load balancing. Springs come in various rates and there is a damper knob on the strut to adjust stiffness. Anti-sway bar upgrade may be another route or addition depending on your needs.

2. 949 Racing makes a 6UL 17x8 +45 that's a little over 14lbs and both Konig and Advanti have them in the 16lb range.

3. I was running Michelin PSS 235/45x17 without being lowered and most likely going to try out a set of Federal 595 at a 40 ratio for a little better fit when lowered an inch or more. There are so many options and its more about trying out what works for you and your driving style.

4. Wilwood or Stoptech are the major players I've seen here. 4 to 6 piston systems. The bigger the pad, the better heat dissipation. As far as rotors, there are a few lighter 2-piece options out there. Plain or Slotted face seem to be the consensus here with drilled to be more for looks than functionality.

I must admit that I am more of an engine person though. Still learning all the ins and outs and finer points of the suspension and stopping parts.
 

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Hello again Jeff........Hmmmm, a non mechanical School Teacher. If I was you Jeff I would Do Nothing Yet !
Yes, Terrible news about what is happening around and within your Great Country to the people, Animals and property, my heart goes out to all.
The reason I say do nothing YET is that in my time I have seen the results of car enthusiasm be soured by mistakes and con merchants happy to take their cash when they know that the modification paid for is useless or even dangerous......I would suggest that you read the relevant threads here about the changes you intend to enhance your Spider before committing. I don't own the 124 Abarth and I don't know what specifications you have in OZ, here in the UK the guys get Brembo brakes & Blistein Shock Absorbers and they all seem very happy with them. The standard wheels are heavy at 22 lbs but there are websites "wheeelbasealloys" here in the UK for one where they will guide you, Forged alloys to me are superior and brands like BBS & OZ (no relation) stand out as do tyre brands such as Michelin and Goodyear, but they all must match and you may need "Spigots" and longer wheel bolts.
The springs on the 124 Abarth here are matched with the suspension but there are so many choices and two or three top brands of springs also.
Don't be put off by the above though Jeff......Calehedron has started the ball rolling with some details for you to write down and consider, I would add, "if" you fancy a read look at my "Brexit Mods" thread, for your Abarth model some stuff will not apply I suspect but hopefully you will see that I studied threads on this forum and 21st Century 124 Spider website then listed and followed the route that I considered "Best for Me".
A friendly Vehicle Engineer with a workshop would be in order if you require somebody to fit your Mods as the costs could be steep, and, when you do start spending, your friendly, and honest, "Mechanical Engineer" may be able to suggest places other than Fiat/Mopar to buy from to save money.
All above said with only you, your wallet and your peace of mind considered Jeff. Cheers
ron
 

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Hi Jeff and welcome. First let me say how truly sorry I am for the devastation that is occurring in your country. I have been following and it is heartbreaking.

I have already gone down the path you are exploring and you are thinking correctly. However, I would suggest you start with only lowering your car 35mm and see what you think. 50 is a lot. There are several here who probably have theirs that low but you could get some rubbing and bump stop issues if you go too low. Find a good adjustable coilover you like and play with the settings until you get the look and ride quality you desire. Just remember, every time you change suspension settings you are also changing your alignment settings.

A 235/40R17 will fit very nicely on a 17x8 wheel. Choose a 200 or 300 tread wear tire and you'll have greatly improved grip and handling. You won't get much tread life out of them, though. A light weight wheel with ET 40 or 45 will work well and reduce some of the unsprung weight which increases handling.

I think Wilwood makes the best bang for the buck brakes on the market for these cars. The stock brakes are pretty good because the car is so light but a Wilwood brake kit up front with quality brake pads will look good, save some weight and stop the car really nicely. Unless you don't mind losing your parking brake I would leave the rears alone and just change the pads. If you don't mind losing your rear parking brake then Wilwood makes a nice 4 piston kit that compliments the big brake kit nicely.

Good luck. Have fun and post pics.

Gratuitous pic of my car with all of the above mentioned mods:

74718
 

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Hi Jeff and welcome. First let me say how truly sorry I am for the devastation that is occurring in your country. I have been following and it is heartbreaking.

I have already gone down the path you are exploring and you are thinking correctly. However, I would suggest you start with only lowering your car 35mm and see what you think. 50 is a lot. There are several here who probably have theirs that low but you could get some rubbing and bump stop issues if you go too low. Find a good adjustable coilover you like and play with the settings until you get the look and ride quality you desire. Just remember, every time you change suspension settings you are also changing your alignment settings.

A 235/40R17 will fit very nicely on a 17x8 wheel. Choose a 200 or 300 tread wear tire and you'll have greatly improved grip and handling. You won't get much tread life out of them, though. A light weight wheel with ET 40 or 45 will work well and reduce some of the unsprung weight which increases handling.

I think Wilwood makes the best bang for the buck brakes on the market for these cars. The stock brakes are pretty good because the car is so light but a Wilwood brake kit up front with quality brake pads will look good, save some weight and stop the car really nicely. Unless you don't mind losing your parking brake I would leave the rears alone and just change the pads. If you don't mind losing your rear parking brake then Wilwood makes a nice 4 piston kit that compliments the big brake kit nicely.

Good luck. Have fun and post pics.

Gratuitous pic of my car with all of the above mentioned mods:

View attachment 74718
All I can say/add to this is: oooooh, blue tape on the garage floor!
 

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All I can say/add to this is: oooooh, blue tape on the garage floor!
LOL. I was wondering when someone would comment on that. It’s so I know where to put my scales when I’m doing a corner balance. I can’t drive up on them. I have to lower the car onto them.
 

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I believe someone mentioned 235/45R17 and lowered had rubbing. 235/40R17 are almost exactly the same diameter as stock. I have 235s and they look wide, and have plenty of grip, so going wider than 8" is not absolutely necessary (having said that, I think the 235s would probably fit better on a 9" wheel if maximum performance for the tire is required (sounds like you can't go 9" wide, though...<insert eye roll here>)

Most lowering springs, I believe, don't go below 2". Adjustable coilovers will give you the best range - high enough to pass the Aussie nanny state, and ability to lower for track use.

EDIT: Just to add, don't bother with spacers: just get a decent set of wheels designed for the application - there are a good few available. Spacers, IMO, are a last resort or just for looks (not that it's bad, but you do have to be careful with them...or else it could be bad! but it sounds like you are already aware of that).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I will start a bit and then I am sure more will chime in that are even more knowledgeable than I when it comes to these parts.

1. Any decent coilover has a threaded base tube to change the ride height and a spring adjustment for load balancing. Springs come in various rates and there is a damper knob on the strut to adjust stiffness. Anti-sway bar upgrade may be another route or addition depending on your needs.

2. 949 Racing makes a 6UL 17x8 +45 that's a little over 14lbs and both Konig and Advanti have them in the 16lb range.

3. I was running Michelin PSS 235/45x17 without being lowered and most likely going to try out a set of Federal 595 at a 40 ratio for a little better fit when lowered an inch or more. There are so many options and its more about trying out what works for you and your driving style.

4. Wilwood or Stoptech are the major players I've seen here. 4 to 6 piston systems. The bigger the pad, the better heat dissipation. As far as rotors, there are a few lighter 2-piece options out there. Plain or Slotted face seem to be the consensus here with drilled to be more for looks than functionality.

I must admit that I am more of an engine person though. Still learning all the ins and outs and finer points of the suspension and stopping parts.
I will start a bit and then I am sure more will chime in that are even more knowledgeable than I when it comes to these parts.

1. Any decent coilover has a threaded base tube to change the ride height and a spring adjustment for load balancing. Springs come in various rates and there is a damper knob on the strut to adjust stiffness. Anti-sway bar upgrade may be another route or addition depending on your needs.

2. 949 Racing makes a 6UL 17x8 +45 that's a little over 14lbs and both Konig and Advanti have them in the 16lb range.

3. I was running Michelin PSS 235/45x17 without being lowered and most likely going to try out a set of Federal 595 at a 40 ratio for a little better fit when lowered an inch or more. There are so many options and its more about trying out what works for you and your driving style.

4. Wilwood or Stoptech are the major players I've seen here. 4 to 6 piston systems. The bigger the pad, the better heat dissipation. As far as rotors, there are a few lighter 2-piece options out there. Plain or Slotted face seem to be the consensus here with drilled to be more for looks than functionality.

I must admit that I am more of an engine person though. Still learning all the ins and outs and finer points of the suspension and stopping parts.
I will start a bit and then I am sure more will chime in that are even more knowledgeable than I when it comes to these parts.

1. Any decent coilover has a threaded base tube to change the ride height and a spring adjustment for load balancing. Springs come in various rates and there is a damper knob on the strut to adjust stiffness. Anti-sway bar upgrade may be another route or addition depending on your needs.

2. 949 Racing makes a 6UL 17x8 +45 that's a little over 14lbs and both Konig and Advanti have them in the 16lb range.

3. I was running Michelin PSS 235/45x17 without being lowered and most likely going to try out a set of Federal 595 at a 40 ratio for a little better fit when lowered an inch or more. There are so many options and its more about trying out what works for you and your driving style.

4. Wilwood or Stoptech are the major players I've seen here. 4 to 6 piston systems. The bigger the pad, the better heat dissipation. As far as rotors, there are a few lighter 2-piece options out there. Plain or Slotted face seem to be the consensus here with drilled to be more for looks than functionality.

I must admit that I am more of an engine person though. Still learning all the ins and outs and finer points of the suspension and stopping parts.
Thankyou very much for the prompt reply to kick forum suggestion off. Much appreciated. I know who to seek out for engine mods also when the time comes!
Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Man, you have opened up a can of worms. These guys and gals here will EMPTY your pockets, lol. And look out for mike34, or your car will be all red 😁
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hello again Jeff........Hmmmm, a non mechanical School Teacher. If I was you Jeff I would Do Nothing Yet !
Yes, Terrible news about what is happening around and within your Great Country to the people, Animals and property, my heart goes out to all.
The reason I say do nothing YET is that in my time I have seen the results of car enthusiasm be soured by mistakes and con merchants happy to take their cash when they know that the modification paid for is useless or even dangerous......I would suggest that you read the relevant threads here about the changes you intend to enhance your Spider before committing. I don't own the 124 Abarth and I don't know what specifications you have in OZ, here in the UK the guys get Brembo brakes & Blistein Shock Absorbers and they all seem very happy with them. The standard wheels are heavy at 22 lbs but there are websites "wheeelbasealloys" here in the UK for one where they will guide you, Forged alloys to me are superior and brands like BBS & OZ (no relation) stand out as do tyre brands such as Michelin and Goodyear, but they all must match and you may need "Spigots" and longer wheel bolts.
The springs on the 124 Abarth here are matched with the suspension but there are so many choices and two or three top brands of springs also.
Don't be put off by the above though Jeff......Calehedron has started the ball rolling with some details for you to write down and consider, I would add, "if" you fancy a read look at my "Brexit Mods" thread, for your Abarth model some stuff will not apply I suspect but hopefully you will see that I studied threads on this forum and 21st Century 124 Spider website then listed and followed the route that I considered "Best for Me".
A friendly Vehicle Engineer with a workshop would be in order if you require somebody to fit your Mods as the costs could be steep, and, when you do start spending, your friendly, and honest, "Mechanical Engineer" may be able to suggest places other than Fiat/Mopar to buy from to save money.
All above said with only you, your wallet and your peace of mind considered Jeff. Cheers
ron
Thanks Ron,
I'll take it slow.
I found last night there is a mechanical shop called MX5 Mania (they also race MX 5's) not far from me, surprise surprise, I know the owner from a previous life, and he happens to have just purchased a 124 Abarth to do some work on - so a really good chat with him is now well and truly in order.
Cheers,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi Jeff and welcome. First let me say how truly sorry I am for the devastation that is occurring in your country. I have been following and it is heartbreaking.

I have already gone down the path you are exploring and you are thinking correctly. However, I would suggest you start with only lowering your car 35mm and see what you think. 50 is a lot. There are several here who probably have theirs that low but you could get some rubbing and bump stop issues if you go too low. Find a good adjustable coilover you like and play with the settings until you get the look and ride quality you desire. Just remember, every time you change suspension settings you are also changing your alignment settings.

A 235/40R17 will fit very nicely on a 17x8 wheel. Choose a 200 or 300 tread wear tire and you'll have greatly improved grip and handling. You won't get much tread life out of them, though. A light weight wheel with ET 40 or 45 will work well and reduce some of the unsprung weight which increases handling.

I think Wilwood makes the best bang for the buck brakes on the market for these cars. The stock brakes are pretty good because the car is so light but a Wilwood brake kit up front with quality brake pads will look good, save some weight and stop the car really nicely. Unless you don't mind losing your parking brake I would leave the rears alone and just change the pads. If you don't mind losing your rear parking brake then Wilwood makes a nice 4 piston kit that compliments the big brake kit nicely.

Good luck. Have fun and post pics.

Gratuitous pic of my car with all of the above mentioned mods:

View attachment 74718
Thankyou for replying and advice about how low to possibly go. Sounds like coilovers may be on the cards. I'll keep in touch as some of you seem to have a lot of knowledge and experience with engine mods as well which will come in handy in the future.
cheers,
Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #12
LOL. I was wondering when someone would comment on that. It’s so I know where to put my scales when I’m doing a corner balance. I can’t drive up on them. I have to lower the car onto them.
LOL I thought it was so you know where to park your car, and i'm thinking can you even see that tape when you are in the car??? - I'm not so bright!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I believe someone mentioned 235/45R17 and lowered had rubbing. 235/40R17 are almost exactly the same diameter as stock. I have 235s and they look wide, and have plenty of grip, so going wider than 8" is not absolutely necessary (having said that, I think the 235s would probably fit better on a 9" wheel if maximum performance for the tire is required (sounds like you can't go 9" wide, though...<insert eye roll here>)

Most lowering springs, I believe, don't go below 2". Adjustable coilovers will give you the best range - high enough to pass the Aussie nanny state, and ability to lower for track use.

EDIT: Just to add, don't bother with spacers: just get a decent set of wheels designed for the application - there are a good few available. Spacers, IMO, are a last resort or just for looks (not that it's bad, but you do have to be careful with them...or else it could be bad! but it sounds like you are already aware of that).
Hi thanks for the comment, and yes i'm hopefull to find rims that fit straight on. I was also thinking about when I changes tyre sizes from say stock 205 x 45 on 7x17 inch rims to say 235 x 45 on 8x17 inch rims does that mean the rolling diameter is larger than stock and does that therefore mean 235 x 40 on 8 x 17 inch rims will get me back to close to stock rolling diameter? I'll need to have a chat to a tyre shop.
 

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Thanks Ron,
I'll take it slow.
I found last night there is a mechanical shop called MX5 Mania (they also race MX 5's) not far from me, surprise surprise, I know the owner from a previous life, and he happens to have just purchased a 124 Abarth to do some work on - so a really good chat with him is now well and truly in order.
Cheers,
Jeff
Hi Jeff...Looks like you just struck gold TWICE!, the replies, and....your Main Man from the previous life,who is MX5 proficient and has now got the 124 Abarth to play with. Keep a diary and once your project is complete share with your pals here so that we can then learn from YOU ! 😀 Cheers
ron
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi Jeff...Looks like you just struck gold TWICE!, the replies, and....your Main Man from the previous life,who is MX5 proficient and has now got the 124 Abarth to play with. Keep a diary and once your project is complete share with your pals here so that we can then learn from YOU ! 😀 Cheers
ron
Hi Ron,
A diary in words and photos to share is a great idea. I will do that.
Thanks
Jeff
 

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All I can say/add to this is: oooooh, blue tape on the garage floor!
LOL. I was wondering when someone would comment on that. It’s so I know where to put my scales when I’m doing a corner balance. I can’t drive up on them. I have to lower the car onto them.
I measured my garage's third bay to assess how well a Spider would fit and placed blue painters tape on the floor where the corners would be. I probably should confirm using an actual car before signing any papers.

As for mods, none right away. Upgraded tires when the originals wear out. Wilwood brakes (I never thought about the rears not being compatible with the car's parking brake) when the original brakes need servicing, and maybe some mild engine tweaks. I doubt I'll do much to the suspension; the roads in my area are just too punishing.
 

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LOL I thought it was so you know where to park your car, and i'm thinking can you even see that tape when you are in the car??? - I'm not so bright!!!
No I can’t see the tape while I’m in the car but I have a pretty good sense of hitting them now when I pull the car in. I use the car’s backup camera lines aligned to the seam between garage and driveway to set it just perfectly. Honestly, I could pull the tape up now. I don’t do corner balancing very often.
 

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Hi Everyone,

I’m a new member (school teacher – not very mechanical minded) I live in fire blazing Australia with a recently purchased 2018 124 Spider Abarth manual. Can I say first off its just so horrible how firefighters including overseas firefighters have lost their lives, and their families devastated, simply trying to help us – HEROS in my eyes!

I love the car but want to (I’m my opinion) improve its looks and handling by doing the following:

1. Lowering it.
2. Putting on wider light wheels.
3. Putting on wider sticky tyres (no snow or sleet where I live – just hot, hot, hot).
4. Brake upgrade rotors and calipers front and rear


I really need forum members help to get started in the right way and buy things and promise to put up photos up of before and after.

1. Lowering it (i.e centre of gravity)
My research indicates I can legally lower a vehicle by up to 50mm (2 inch) for street use in Sydney Australia without needing an engineers sign off and I also need to keep 100mm (4 inch) clearance between the bottom of the vehicle and the road in the unladed state (i.e my fat arse not being in the drivers seat! – wow it will be low when I get in!).

I did some crude measurements and the car at the lowest point is close enough to 150mm (just under 6 inch) from the ground. Not sure what the end of the tape is touching but its where the very bottom of the mounting point where the rear shock is mounted to the ground.

My thoughts are that if I lower the car 50mm (2 inch) to comply with not needing an engineers report it means I also maintain the required 100mm (4 inch) ground clearance.

So in my books that is what I’d like to achieve (50 mm/2 inch) lower. This will still allow me to get in and out of drive ways.

I’d also like to stiffen the suspension whilst lowering to hopefully also improve handling but I do not want it so stiff that its uncomfortable or in a permanent race track set up because it will possibly only get tracked twice a year. I also don’t want to hit a small pothole and shatter my wheel and my teeth! Therefore, my question is: Can anyone suggest the best way to go about this lowering for the long term with improved handling and a nice degree of comfort. If that means coil overs and other bits and pieces I’m ok with the cost but would like to know what exactly I need and also reputable brands and their part numbers to buy please.

Note: If I have a set up that allows me to drop it more than 2 inch (50mm) for occasional track use then this would be a great bonus!

2. Wider lighter wheels

I’ve read that the Abarth wheels I have (see image) are 7 x 17 inch and weigh 21.78 lbs. They have 205 x 45 84W tyres.

I like the colour (gun metal) of the wheels as it matches the windscreen frame, side mirrors and complements the side skirts, plus they don’t look so dirty when they actually are, so I can clean them less often!

Apparently for road use in Australia for alternate (new) wheels I need to comply with the following: The alternative wheel must not increase wheel track of passenger cars (or derivatives) by more than 25 mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer”. That means I can increase the width of the wheel 1 inch from a width of 7” to 8”.

I was thinking with 8 inch wide rims to stay with a 17 inch rim diameter as opposed to considering 18 inch diameter just to keep a comfortable ride and reduce pot hole and shattered teeth shock! Therefore I am considering going for tyres that are 235 x 45 x 17.

What I have no idea about is what type of wheel I need to keep the wheel set up as factory as possible (without the need of a spacer) but still allow me to have a wider wheel that is lighter, that will fit wider tyres and fit under the guard – and if possible I do not have to roll rear guard – but if I have to, due to tyre scrubbing then so be it. In other words, any suggestions on a suitable 8 inch wide grey wheel (gun metal or similar) with the same bolt pattern and centre bore where mounting configuration is the same as factory that fits straight on would be greatly appreciated.

Note: if I wanted slightly bigger brake rotors and callipers soon also I would appreciate a bigger wheel now that would accommodate this brake upgrade.

Wheel Bolt Pattern
: 4 x 100 PCD (same as all MX-5)
Wheel Offset (ET)
: +45 mm (positive offset, aka wheel inset)
Center Bore
: 54.1 mm (wheels are lugcentric, but if wheels with
→ → a larger center bore are used, lug nut procedure is critical)
Lug Nut Threads: M12 x 1.5 mm
Lug Nut Seat: Cone @ 60° angle
Min. Lug Nut engagement (8+ turns OEM norm): 6½ turns
→ → (if spacers > 5mm are installed, use longer lug bolts, as min.
→ → spec probably won’t be met)

3. Tyres:
As above I’m thinking of new tyres being 235 x 45 x 17. Any suggestions on something similar to performance of Michelin pilot cup sport II tyres as I had them on my Ford Focus RS and Porsche Cayman R and they were ok for me. Suggestions appreciated.

4. Brakes:
What brake rotors and callipers would people recommend that will fit into recommended wheels?

Thankyou so much in advance for your “been their done that” suggestions as to brands/parts/model numbers to consider and perhaps why if you have the time, expertise and experience to share.

My three boys and I really look forward to getting this started!

Cheers

Jeff


Hi Jeff I live in Sydney too with a 2017 Abarth so happy to touch base with you.....
 

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Thanks Ron,
I'll take it slow.
I found last night there is a mechanical shop called MX5 Mania (they also race MX 5's) not far from me, surprise surprise, I know the owner from a previous life, and he happens to have just purchased a 124 Abarth to do some work on - so a really good chat with him is now well and truly in order.
Cheers,
Jeff
Wow Lucky you, Hope you get what you are looking for with him
 
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