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Discussion Starter #21
Actually, just checked catch can. The last 250 mile motorway journey for the first time has collected about 30ml in the bottom of the can. Mostly watery, with some oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Right so now at 1000 miles and 65% on stick. It is going for a check over on Thursday.

Consumption isnt great but also the oil smells of petrol and I noticed on my last 2 motorway trips mpg was down to 37 (uk). That could be tune and pedal booster or sometbjbg more serious.

Weirdly, fuel trims and afr all good so doesn't seem to be running rich.

I know oil will smell of petrol with only a small amount added but I have growing concerns that I have serious Bbill's coming my way....despite performance being great and no engine lights etc !

I'll keep this updated for anyone in same position!
 

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Your graph is difficult to interpret. What is a "refill" in "miles/refill"? In any case, I hope that you get useful information from your technician. I always assumed oil consumption at these levels cannot generally be diagnosed.
Like you, I hate it when my cars use oil, but to make you feel better, consider that my R1150R motorcycle has been using 1 lt per 2000 miles for the past 85,000 miles/19 years, and everything is normal and the bike is as strong as new!
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Sorry. In other words miles per 1litre...how long before I'd need to put a litre in (wouldn't let it get that low anyway).

I know. That's what they said. Honestly, I'd live with it as nothing showed up in the oil analysis thay was too crazy and it's well below fiat figures.

What tipped me.over the edge is that oil smells of petrol. I know petrol smell goes a long way but if I'm getting serious dilution then I want it looked at.

My guess is top end strip down and replace seals to see if that works...unless they can find anything more obvious.

Taking the edge off ownership somewhat.. annoys me thay is runs and performs so well and I'm seeing no issues such as rough idle, rich running, smoke, engine lights etc....oh well.

Thanks for the info on your bike, interesting !
 

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Discussion Starter #25
UPDATE
So had car at specialist yesterday. As many said, diagnosis not easy after 2 hours on the ramp and as much done without stripping the engine:
  • no leaks, everything looked nice and clean
  • compression good , leak down good
  • agree plug 1 darker
  • no oil in cylinders
  • he would hazard at valve seals cylinder 1
He commented on how strong it pulled and basically summarised with:
  • option to leave as is, see if consumption holds at 1l/2800 miles and if no issues with emissions live with it
  • OR full top end seals (not exactly cheap) and of course may not be the answer.
So, I have 3 months until MoT (where they check emissions . I'll keep monitoring , I have a new AOS to swap in to see if that helps and another oil analysis pending.

IF that all checks out and nothing gets worse I may live with it, keep it topped and just change oil at 3000 miles like some others do on here. Clearly the oil will thin as more fuel dilution happens and consumption may go up.

It performed great on the drive. 32c heat all day, got 44mpg on the drive up being sensible then 36mpg back hammering it.

I'll update in 3 months.
 

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I am impressed that you could get a tech to examine your car in such detail. In my part of the US, I can't even get to talk to a tech. All dealerships have managers, they ask you to drop off the car, and then the manager tells you that the tech could not find anything wrong. $200 for diagnosis, please. Thank you, goodbye.
For those luckier than me, the tech would have sealed the oil cap, asked you to come back in 2 weeks, and finally tell you that 1 qt per 1000 miles is considered acceptable.
How much does an hour of a mechanic's time cost in England? Are they good? Did you have to pay, or was it covered by the warranty?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Haha! Not easy here. This guy is an Alfa specialist. Took some findings. Does multiairs as well.

Cost 60£ for 1.5 hours. I was with him for some of it..good peace of mind and some advice to go forward with. Plus he will do the work if I want. :)
 

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That’s not exactly how fuel dilution works. @XtremeRevolution
IF that all checks out and nothing gets worse I may live with it, keep it topped and just change oil at 3000 miles like some others do on here. Clearly the oil will thin as more fuel dilution happens and consumption may go up.
Fuel dilution doesn't increase linearly with miles. Furthermore, oil level would go UP if your example was the case, as the fuel dilution would add volume to the sump. What actually ends up happening is the oil releases the fuel vapor to be consumed by the PCV system, as well as any other low pressure vapor liquids. The rate of dilution eventually matches the rate of vaporization of fuel in the sump, and you reach a fuel dilution equilibrium. I've tracked vehicles that had fuel dilution for nearly 40,000 miles (on a single oil change), and observed the fuel dilution trends during that time; it is not linearly increasing.

Furthermore, diluted oil will be lower in viscosity, which would theoretically reduce consumption as the piston rings are more easily able to scrap oil off the cylinder walls. This is one reason why some OEMs have pushed for lower viscosity SAE-20 oils in direct injected turbo applications and have seen a reduction in LSPI frequency as a result; fewer oil droplets in the ring lands and combustion chamber.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
That's really interesting thanks @XtremeRevolution

Currently I have plateaued at 150 miles per dipstick notch. This is the most consistent way I have found to keep track. Equates to about 2400 miles per litre (16 notches , 1 litre of hashed area).

For the first 300 miles on brand new oil in dropped 1 notch.

Will keep tracking.

Thanks again for input.

Also, oil sample sent to different place that do 100C viscosity test and proper dilution. So will see what 1000 miles on new oil looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
New AOS and pcv is in. Like hens teeth getting an AOS over here.

Comparing the new to old was interesting. There are clearly loads of check valves inside these things in addition to the PCV valve itself. The old one (even though I cleaned it 2 months ago) sounded very dull when shaken almost like the valves were shutting into sludge and didnt always move when shaken..

The new one seemed very free and clicky.

Probably irrelevant but I am to understand if these things go wrong it can cause all sorts of issues so POSSIBLY contributing to what I've been seeing..

Either way for 60£ delivered from the US it seemed reasonable to give it a go..

I may open up the old one at some point to see how they work!!

Just keeping these thread going now for anyone else seeing higher than average oil.usage.
 
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Discussion Starter #32
Right analysis back after 1300 miles on this Shell 5w-40.

I have put into one spreadsheet as easier to read. They did do proper GC for the dilution. showing as 2.5%.

I am pleased that wear metals are much reduced. This tells me I want to be changing every 3-4k now I think. I am going to try Amsoil for the next change. Not everythig is comparable and I have left out additives as they were much the same between samples.

I have also been told I am now working from home for the foreseeable, so this 124 is now a proper garage queen for warm days and holidays....maybe 4-5k a year tops.


I know there is less mileage on sample 2 but i am somewhat relieved at the results.

77527
 
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